Force

Hey Scott, where are we with the K100 Aerodyne dash?

I was planning to do just that on my build when I get to it, splice in the rear section of the AMT chassis to the Revell AG front section.

Mark Stracener who bought the only known Movin On TV series truck from season 1, one of the 1974 "Sundance" trucks, from Paul Sagehorn a couple of years ago and currently owns it, he is restoring it back to it's former glory with the correct Cummins VT903, torsion bar suspension and all, he do have a set of the TV series correct 22 inch split ring Alcoa wheels for tube tires but tires for them are not that easy to get hold of these days so he will use the newer tubeless style 11.00-24½ Alcoas for now. There aren't many tire manufacturers who does 11.00-22 tires for trucks these days and Mark at Twin Stick Garage (youtube channel) had difficulty getting tires for his Snowman replica build, finally he managed to get a set of 10 but it wasn't easy and most likely not cheap. Here is a video of the "Sundance" truck as it was 6 months ago.

For a 577 it might not be necessary, you can have a longer stroke inside a stock engine block, I have built a stroker engine based on a FE 390 and the stock stroke is 3.78 inches and I now have a crank with 4.25 inches stroke without doing anything to the stock block, its also bored out 0,030 inches from 4.05 to 4.08 and instead of the stock 390 cu it's now 445 cu.

The engine in the Revell-Monogram Pro Stock Thunderbirds is 500 cubic inches but based on regular 429-460 blocks, and 577 is not that difficult to get out of a 429-460 block with longer stroke and larger cylinder bores. One thing that can be different for the very large cubic inch mountain motors is the deck hight and bore spacing (center to center of the cylinders) and the centerline of the cam shaft is often moved up to allow for longer stroke, and most of them, if not all, are based on aftermarket blocks as the OEM blocks do not allow that large displacement within the OEM specs. You can bore out the cylinders but not too much so to do much larger bore you have to extend the bore spacing, and that will need a completely new block, crank and heads. Another way to gain more cubic inches is to have longer stroke but the deck hight limits how much you can go there so some large engines have engine blocks with taller deck, wich is quite easy to do in kit form, put in a shim of plastic between the block and heads to move the heads upwards and you also have to shim the intake manifold as the heads gets further appart with this modification. The engines used today in NHRA Pro Stock are loosely based on factory engines but the DRCE (1, 2 3 and 4) is specially developed for racing with 4.900 bore spacing and a modern 500 cui Pro Stock engine has short 3.600 stroke and large cylinder bores at 4.700 inches and revs 10.500 rpm. To compare it with a OEM Chevy 454 wich have 4.250 bore, 4.000 stroke and 4.840 bore spacing.

As Gerry says, there are many to choose from, but you have to decide if you are going to do a Mk I, Mk II, J-Car or MK IV For Mk I you have the Revell GT and the newly issued 68-69 MK I (reboxed Fujimi), the Fujimi kits and the old Testors/IMC/Union kits. Mk II Fujimi, Revell (reboxed Fujimi), Meng and IMC/Testors/Union kits J-Car IMC/Testors/Union and MPC. Mk IV IMC/Testors/Union and MPC There are also some aftermarket stuff for the GT 40's, both complete kits and conversion kits

As the 289 and 302 (except Boss) pretty much are the same you can look for parts for a 302. I can't remember right now if I have seen anything like you are looking for but the Weber intake manifold can be converted to fuel injection with some injector stacks and a few modifications. But I believe the Ford racers prefered to use the larger more powerful FE instead of the small block for racing in the "heavier" classes and I don't think I have seen many blown 289's except for Paxtons back in the day.

This I will follow. I plan to build one of the Movin' On trucks myself and have gathered lots of pictures and information as well as the DVD's of both seasons. The second season trucks were 1975 models and are slightly different from the first season 1974 model trucks.

I have both the Meng and Fujimi kits and both has their drawbacks, but I think the body has better proportions on the Fujimi kit, but as Justin says all the Fujimi GT 40 kits are curbside. The Meng kit is full detail but has some issues and I belive it's based on their 1:12 kit and the wheels and some other parts are not that great as some details are quite crude representations of what they are supposed to be.

The red sided car was only used a short ammount of time and was crashed, and in 1973 only as I understand it. All the pictures of it I have seen the red sided car has Pro 3 on it and in the 1972 season he had Pro 100.

I'm looking forward to see the progress.

It came out beautiful. Nice work Mark.

Yes it's supposed to be that way, the U-joints takes up that angle difference as well as the differences in hight. No axles as far as I know has the drive shaft in the center of the axle, it's more or less off center depending on manufacturer and how the power dividers on the forward axle are made. How much angle difference there are from the center depends on the distance between the center support bearing and the forward axle, on a longer drive shaft it's not as visible as on a short one. As you see here the drive shaft is not exactly in the center. And this one

This one? I may have a few more but these are the ones I found right now.

Yes you are of course right, I just checked my kits bought back then...16 years ago...time flies. I went by Scale Mates timeline in my earlier post wich often are wrong...so it's 2007, not 2011. And yes, it's time to reissue this kit.

Yes that's right, the drive shaft are slightly off center on most axles as the pinions are to one side of the ring gear in the differential, and in a power divider wich are used on dual drive tandems gears go down to drive the pinion on the forward axle and another shaft goes past the ring gear and come out off center at the rear of the pumpkin to drive the pinion on the rear axle.

The Strato Models 351 kit is very nice but not available all the time as he does small series at the time and all are sold out quickly. It was quite a long time since I saw the 351 but Strato Models has a facebook site and you can maybe ask there.

I believe it was out 2011, 12 years ago...so one think it would be up for reissue soon.

Nice, the curved part on top could maybe have a sharper radius as it looks a bit too round, that will also put the step slightly higher. As you say, some things needs to be exaggerated some to look right, but overall it looks good.

Yes, the E model har the same dash as the C model Aerodynes, and that goes for both the E model Flat Top and Aerodyne cabs, so the dash you have done will work just fine for the E model. Yes a little tweak was necessary and maybe even a bit more, the upper surface of the step should be slightly below the bottom of the curved part and it could be even slightly higher, and the radius of the curved part could be slightly sharper and this would move the step and handles up even more and it will be close to perfect according to my nitpicking eye. 😉 You are right, the sides of the battery boxes are steel and don't have any diamond plate, it's only the covers that are aluminum diamond plate. There seems to have been a couple different patterns for the lower step used on the W900 battery boxes and one I have seen on many trucks is like you can see below but the one you did will work just fine and you don't have to change it if you don't want to.

Don't worry about it, the dash looks really good and I like to see it printed...as I said, I have lots of kits who need this dash. If you do a K100E I'm up for one. Flat Top or Aerodyne, well it's depending on personal taste, I suggested the Revell kit because the basic kit is the same for both the Flat Top and Aerodyne with different separate roof sections on the same cab, the downside is the price they go for and that they are not in production right now. But if you do something for the AMT kit you are pretty much locked on the Aerodyne as the only Flat Top they have is the K123 with a shorter and older style cab.

Well the NASCAR Ford FR-9 is not that Ford based as it's not a production engine, it's especially developed for NASCAR by Doug Yates and not available in any form in any car from the Ford factory. You forgot the most noticable parts on the engines, namely the shape of the heads and valve covers wich are very different between Ford FR-9 and Chevrolet R07, they could at least have done those 4 parts right but it doesn't look like they did. Most of the rest of the engine is pretty much covered by the air cleaner and vents. Yes that's it.

Nice and crisp castings indeed.

The soft ERTL tires are Good Year 11.00-20 and I really like them as they have some meat to them, the original tires in AMT kits has 10.00-20 wich I think looks a tad small, or 11.00-22 wich looks better, the makes are Uniroyal, Good Year or Firestone.

I have not seen any pre-wired MSD Pro Mag 44's anywhere.