Force

Great news. I really miss Dave Natale's parts.

I knew I would put myself in the "line of fire" here with my view of this but it's my opinion and I stand by it. Nobody demands that they should build one or two complete models a week, it's the builders/videomakers choice to do so, but I think slapping together a model in a few hours just because isn't that adjucating to a beginner modeler and they learn all they can from what these videos have to offer in viewing a couple of them, and then you want to learn more and and take a step to be able to build better models. You can show how a model comes together, parts fit and so on even if you put more effort in the builds and build slower and the video doesn't have to be 2 hours to cover that, it depends on how you edit the material as you don't have to show every single step in full, keep what's important and skip the unecessary things. They can easily show some basic tecniques most builders with some experience use like the ones I listed in my post above, it will give the less experiensed modelers more, I mean, I did the Pontiac GTO in my post above in 3 days of spare time total and I had a week to do it, so you can do a nice looking model in a week if you want to, it's just a matter of planning. The sub-assemblys they do are hastingly gone through and they don't even wait until the glue cures, they also put so much together that the detail painting is hard to do and don't look good so that's not my cup of tea, I do sub-assemblys myself but not to that extent, I do them so it's easy to detail paint and detail in general and the end result is much better. If time is the thing (wich it really isn't), I can slap together a car model in one day if it was for that, but it will definately not look good and it's no point of doing because building models is a hobby that's allowed to take time, relax and build and the model can take all the time it needs, that's the reason of doing it. But I do watch some of their videos to see how some models are, especially the ones I have not seen before, I skip most of the buildup and paint process and see how the finished model looks like, but I have been in this hobby so long that there's not much I haven't seen except for the new tool models. HPIguy does two videos a week normaly, one where he shows box contents of a model and one longer buildup video, and the box content videos are the ones I watch most if there is a model I'm interested in, and I only watch the buildup videos sometimes and skip most of the content as it doesn't give me much. But there are builders on youtube that builds their models more like I would do and I enjoy watching them a lot more than the guys slapping together a model in a few hours, it gives me a lot more. And I agree with Bill Engwer here, I can't believe how much glue they use to hold some smaller parts like valve covers, hub caps, glass and such, I react every time they do it. Steven Guthmiller hits the spot right on and I totally agree with what you say, Kurth also has a point

I assume many here watch youtube channels like HPIguys Workshop and The Autistic Modeler and I'm sure there are more, but these two in particular. I see myself as an experienced modeler doing this for over 50 years, and one thing I have noticed with both of these guys is that they slap together the models very fast without much prepping at all, they don't sand off mold lines on the bodies and other parts, don't fix visible glue joints and don't use much of the basic modeling tecniques that enhance a model a lot even if you don't superdetail it. I mean you can build a very nice model quite fast even if you use basic modeling tecniques like the ones I mentioned, yes it takes a little more time and effort but I built a model for our local hobby shop several years ago and did it in about 3 days and used these basic modeling tecniques and only detailed it with paint, and it came out very nice and I'm pleased with it. Both of these guys do a lot of subassemblys wich is fine and I do that too but not to that extent, I for one would leave off parts that will have a different color as it's easier to paint them separately and get to all nooks and crannies, because it's not easy to put together the complete engine and try to detail parts like exhaust manifolds, belt/pulleys and such with paint afterwards. I have watched many of their videos lately and they all are pretty much the same, they are maybe fine for a beginner modeler but you will not learn much, and for a more experienced modeler they don't have much to offer, I only watch them to see what the models they build are like and skip much of the buildup sequence as it doesn't give me anything. But of course, everyone build their models as they choose and have the right to do it, but I think a bit more basic modeling tecniques could be shown and the less experienced modelers would learn a thing or two, because slap together a model in a couple of days and take a lot of shortcuts doesn't give you a better model, and building models is a hobby, not a job where you must get out as many models as possible in a short time. Well enough ranting. Here is the model I built in about 3 days for our local hobby shop and I don't have that many hours in it. Detailed only with paint, BMF and not polished.

It's unfortunate Italeri didn't do the extra work to put in an engine, it lets down an otherwise good kit. I don't think anyone has done a conversion kit for this so you have to do it yourself as you might have realized and finding and put in an engine is the easiest part. The Volvo VN (L) is not available with many engine options as far as I know, their own D13 wich also can be found in MACK as the MP8, the D11 and Cummins X15, earlier you could get one with engines from Cat, Cummins, Detroit and of course Volvo. I have two of the Volvo VN kits and have plans to do this myself but I have not tackled the problem yet.

I will follow this. Pavel have nice products.

Not really, the aero version of the 1969 Torino was called Talladega regardless of engine, they had the 427 FE first but later got the 429 Boss, however the few street cars made had a 428 Cobra Jet.

I can see that. 😁 Volvo got Mack when they bought Renault in 2001.

More magazine deaths. They can't put out printed copys if no one buys them and people that don't buy the magazines and only go to the internet is to blame for that. I prefer to read a printed magazine before reading on internet because I hate reading digital magazines online and often I don't.

That particular style you can find in the AMT 32 Ford Phantom Vicky. It has a Ford Modular engine with evenly spaced exhaust ports and the headers will most likely work on the Hemi.

Well now you know. 😉 Many just think it's only the square headlights but as you see it's more, the overall length of the K100E cab wich came 1985 is 3 inches longer than the C, the windshields was angeled back 3 degrees more. If you see a K100E you will notice the headlights sits further in than on the C model due to the modifications of the front.

Yes, Volvo owns Mack since 2001 and the MP8 is essentially a Volvo D13 with some small differences. And yes, all Italeri truck kits are 1:24th scale.

Yes, Volvo owns Mack since 2001 and the MP8 is essentially a Volvo D13 with some small differences. And yes, all Italeri truck kits are 1:24th scale.

You know it's more than the square headlights that's different between a K100C and K100E do you? The grille is more squareish on the E model, the front of the cab is further forward so the windshields leans more backwards on the E, later K100E's also has more setback front axle. All K100E's also has the Aerodyne style dash board. Nice start Mark.👍

Yes it's Kenworth, but not a K100, it's a W900 with the drop front part, the K100 has straight rails. That particular frame on your picture landman is a single drive and it's from Tyrone Malone's race trucks, Super Boss and Bandag Bandit. For information, the chassis designation wich Kenworth did away with in the 70's was K125 and W925 for the torsion bar suspension with dual drive, and K121 and W921 if it was single drive (no tag or pusher axle) regardless of suspension type.

I believe the 1964 and 1965 are long gone, the 1966 is the only one left from those years. AMT did a 1964 Convertible and a 1964 Hard Top, a 1965 Convertible and a 1965 Hard Top and a 1966 Convertible with a separate Hard Top section you glue on so no Hard Top body for the 1966, the bodies on these were different as the 1964 and 1965 had a separate body for the Convertible and Hard Top wich were sold as separate kits and the 1966 a Convertible with a separate Hard Top roof section as I said wich the others doesn't have, the 1966 has been reissued about 7 times over the years since it first came out, the others were only issued once. I have one 1965 Hard Top annual kit in the stash, not for sale, and I bought it on ebay some years ago, there are also promotion models of the 1965 HT in 1:25th scale, a friend of mine has one.

Not that I'm aware of. Most ran the 427 SOHC or 429 Boss.

If it's the AMT kit we are talking about the answer is yes. The T600 uses the same chassis and drive train as the W925 wich is not really correct for a T600.

They are pretty much like the tires in the White Freightliner kits because they are the same size as them, but when they cleaned up and modified the tooling and took away the side markings they must have taken too much away in the center of the tires as the White Freightliner wheels are loose in them...and they are the largest truck wheels AMT have done together with the wheels in the Diamond REO and the Autocar kits, the 10-hole Alcoa's in the Kenworth K100 Aerodyne also use these the same tire size. They are definately not 1:24 because AMT has not developed and done any 1:24th scale kits ever, no trucks and no cars, the 1:24 scale truck and trailer kits Round 2 have issued lately are Italeri kits in AMT boxes. So the parts pack tires are meant for their own kits...unfortunately they don't have any parts pack wheels that fits these tires. AMT has only done two tire sizes for their truck kits, 10.00-20 and 11.00-22, and ERTL had 11.00-20 in their truck kits wich is larger both in diameter and width than the AMT 10.00-20 tires and they are slightly smaller in diameter than the AMT 11.00-22 tires.

Not exactly as these are nameless tires, and I tried the wheels from the AMT White Freightliner kit and they are loose in these but fits snuggly in the kit tires.

I believe they are supposed to be the same size as the tires in the White Freightliner FLA kits, and they are marked 11.00-22 like the parts box wheels are on the package. But I tried a White Freightliner wheel in the parts pack tire and it's a bit loose, so the inside diameter of the tire is slightly larger than the kit tires where the wheel fit snuggly. 22.5 is modern tubeless tires and 22 is tube tires and 20 inch tube tires was replaced with 22.5 tubeless, 22 inch tube tires was replaced with 24.5 inch tubeless tires, so the outside diameter are very close and you can pair up a 20 inch wheel with a 22.5 inch wheel and likewise for the 22 and 24.5.

It's not just the ERTL John Deere, Massey Ferguson and International farm tractors, plows and wagons and the John Deere backhoe that's missing, the tooling for the International Transtar II Eagle wich last saw daylight 1996 is also under some tarp somewhere, the kits with the metal components like the Volvo N10 and some others are also somewhere in some unknown location. I don't know but Tomy who owns ERTL might still sit on them but they don't do model kits so I can't understand why, it's not like the model kits are in competition with their die cast line.

Nice build there Sean, yes the snap kits are not that bad, the only thing I really don't like with them are the wheels but you can do decent builds with the kits. For the Movin' On trucks, my research continues all the time and I still pick up things about them now and then, I even have found the build sheets for the season 1 trucks wich has consecutive VIN's, #143604 wich is still with us used to be owned by Paul Sagehorn and now owned by Mark Stracener, and #143605 wich is lost, the two season 2 trucks has also disappeared after the show. So I adjust my statements on these trucks when I find new information. And you are all welcome to ask if there is anything you want to know and I'll help if I can.

Yeah you did. 😊 To do a correct Movin' On truck from the TV series you have to do some kitbashing as no kit has all the parts needed to do it right. The Revell Germany Kenworth W900 VIT is the best starting point to do the TV series trucks as you get the correct cab and interior and the correct 60 inch sleeper, the drivers side battery box and the passenger side tool box are not correct but close, the chassis is fairly right but has wrong suspension and it's not that easy to change as parts of the KW 8 bag AG 100 suspension is molded as part of the frame rails, and some use an AMT chassis slightly stretched to the correct 235 inch wheelbase with the Revell Germany cab, sleeper and the other parts needed. The engine is a Caterpillar 3408 V8 in the Revell Germany kit and has to be changed to a Cummins VT903 V8 (season 1) or NTC350 I6 (season 2), the gear box can be used as it's an Eaton-Fuller and the season 1 trucks had a 13-speed and season 2 a 15-speed deep reduction, most of the brightwork is right except for the wheels wich should be split/lock ring 22 inch wheels for tube tires. You need a short hood from the AMT kit or the Revell snap kit, or cut down the kit hood as it's an extended hood in the Revell Germany kit, the suspension should as I said be a torsion bar suspension for both seasons and if one can't find one from the original AMT issues of the W925 or K123 Auslowe has a good one. One thing is that all the aftermarket and kit decals are not right for the season 2 trucks as the arrow on the sleeper has a different shape, it's symetrical in season 1 and asymetrical in season 2, it's the same paint scheme but Kenworth changed the sleeper arrows from 1974 to 1975. But as I said, it's your model and you do as you please with it, I built the AMT Movin' On kit when I was a teenager in the late 70's and I enjoyed it as it was and it still sits on my shelf but I will build a more correct model of one of the trucks used in the TV series, after all my research on this subject I now know how to do it right.

As I see it you need these parts for the torsion bar suspension and not the walking beam suspension because they are very different. The torsion bar suspension was only in the earliest issues of the AMT Kenworth W925 and K123 kits and is a bit hard to come by nowadays, it was redone and replaced with the walking beam early in the run of the kits as the torsion bar suspension was a bit fiddly to put together and the walking beam suspension is still in the kits today. Auslowe has a better torsion bar kit in resin wich is easier to put together than the original AMT version was and it's recommended, the Movin' On trucks had torsion bars so it's correct for them...but the AMT kit is not really that correct for a Movin' On truck from the TV series. But it's your model and of course you do as you please with it.

Could be so, I have two each of the original issues and one each of the latest reissues of the Tyrone Malone kits and I have not checked my kits for that yet, I know the original issues of them had brittle plastic but I don't know about the latest reissues.