Force

That's a great idea. All AMT NTA and NTC, and Revell Germany NTC Cummins engines has water to air aftercoolers except the engine in the AMT White Freightliner SD/DD kit wich has none, but the aftercoolers changed over the years so different options would be nice, the red one in PacificEd's post is one that's not available in kit form, neither is the one in Mr mopars post. Big Cam or Small Cam is not that visible in kit form as the block is essentially the same except for the cam follower covers wich are slightly bigger on the Big Cam engines, but the exhaust, turbo and aftercooler is very visible on a model. The Cat 3406 in the Revell snap Kenworth W900 and Peterbilt 359 needs an aftercooler because it has none.

The problem with EV's is that if we were to replace what we have today in the world with EV's the demand for Cobolt and Litium is going to be 3 times known resources today...so there will be a huge shortage on these materials.

Nicely done.

I agree with that.

For information, this panel is in the old tool 57 Chevy from the 60's reissued several times over the years, not the later tool from the late 90's with separate frame and opening trunk...the Pro Shop version is one of them.

Very nice. Sunoco maybe?

They are on facebook, I'm looking at their facebook site right now. As far as I know they are doing a new website.

On the MaxxForce 15, they weren't in production for long, just a couple of years, and as I understand it it was definately not a problem free engine, the block and head was Caterpillar and that was not the issue, the problem was the fuel and emission stuff Navistar/International put on it. So the MF 15 was soon replaced with the Cummins X15. I read that the MaxxForce 13 also has problems with the emissions stuff and isn't that reliable. One thing I have seen on the aftermarket is that some engines are not available all the time and there are just a few like Auslowe, Mo'luminum and some others who has the engines in stock most of the time, others can come with an engine but it dissappear quite fast never to be seen again. I have a couple engines bought from different aftermarket companies that aren't available anymore.

Auslowe has the Detroit Diesel Series 60 in resin, not cheap but cheaper than to buy a complete Italeri Peterbilt kit and take the engine out of it, because the Italeri Peterbilt kits are the only ones that have the Series 60, all of the other Italeri US truck kits has Cummins 855 NTC. AMT recently reissued the Italeri Peterbilt 378 and the Series 60 is in it.

Fujimi has done lots of versions of the Countach and the first one seems to have come out 1987, some are full detail and some are curbside. You can check the Fujimi kits instructions on Scalemates, they have instructions for a couple of them but not all, and see if you are up to the challenge, because it can be a handful to get the body and fender flares to look right and some pieces of the chassis are kind of fiddly...but the detailing is a bit better than the Aoshima kit.

Auslowe have a Cummins N14, how correct it is I don't know but it's a lot better than what Italeri like to call a N14 wich is in fact a NTC with an air to air aftercooler. Otherwise Cummins are well represented with V903, NHC, NTA, NTC, KTA, Signature and X15 Not that many Cat engines are available but C15 wich also could pass for a 3406E, 3406A and possible B, 3408, 1693 and 1150/1160 (wich could be modified with a V style injection pump to resemble a 3208 are avalable, not much else and I would like to have a 3412 for something and even a 1673 or 1674 to use in some older trucks. Detroit Diesel, a Silver Series 92 like the 8V-92T 1982 forward is not available as far as I have seen, a 8V-92T is available but without the taller Jake Brake valve covers or the newer style valve covers, KJ Humphries at Double Take Replicas did the newer style valve covers but he has paused the resin making since a while back. Another engine not represented is the DD15. There are some 6-71 and 6V-71 available on the aftermarket. Allis Chalmers "Big Al" is of course missing. The Paccar MX 11 and 13 engine are not available so far. Mack MP8 wich is the same as the Volvo D13 is available as well as the older ENDT 675 and 676, the E7, the ENDT 875/876 and E9 V8, not much else. For the European market the only engines I know anything about is Volvo and Scania and there are lots of versions of their engines missing. For Volvo the missing engines are the TD162, the D12, and D16 (MackMP10), the D13 (Mack MP8) is available as well as the old TD120F For Scania there is a 6 cylinder engine wich might be a DC13 available on the aftermarket, the old DS14 V8 wich was in almost all Scania kits from Italeri and with some modifications are still with us, but they have not made a correct early or late version of the DC16 V8, not even in the lastest Scania kit from Italeri.

Good work and it looks nice. The Fujimi Enthusiast kits of the Countach are not easy to build, I do have a couple Countach LP5000 Quattro Valvole Enthusiast kits myself from the late 80's early 90's. I also have the Aoshima Countach LP5000 Quattro Valvole from the 2010-ish and it's a bit less detailed but not much, and looks to be easier to build.

You're welcome

Kit Form Services has some hub reductions, mostly European but some might work for you.

The Bro Wrecker also usually have the spreader lift bar for the forks for the axle lift or the wheel lift grid, I don't understand why Italeri included the extension bar and crane pulley assembly because you don't see that used often, it's the spreader lift bar you see most. Here is the standard equipment on a Bro Wrecker of that era. Here is a picture of one of the heavy wreckers in my hometown,, the wrecker type is called Bro Starke and the truck it's built on is a Scania R model.

Well the boom is not wrong on the Italeri wrecker body, first of all it's a Swedish built Bro Wrecker and the model kit was designed for the Scania T 142H kit and I built it back when it was new, later Italeri put this wrecker body on a couple of other kits both European and American. Overall the wrecker body is pretty much a good correct model of a Bro Wrecker as you can see here. The thing with Dansmodelworx build is that he's not building it as a Bro Wrecker, he's building it to more resemble a US made wrecker so in that case the Italeri kit is wrong and needed some modifications to get the right look, and of course you can do that if you want to. The Scania T142H wrecker model I built in the late 80's or if it was early 90's.

I know Julie drove the car but the text above the visor on the helmet reads Lindberg, maybe she borrowed Jonnie's helmet.

If you can find the wrecker body from the Revell Germany kit and use the Revell Germany W900 you shouldn't have to do anything as that wrecker body is designed for that kit. But if you are going to use another wrecker body you most likely have to modify the frame. There aren't that many wrecker bodies around, the Revell Germany KW W900 wich has a Century wrecker body, the Revell Germany Can-Do/Will-Do with a Challenger Rotator body, the AMT Peterbilt 359 Small Window Unilite cab and 1100 series cab "Big Stick" wreckers (they have the same "Big Stick" body on both kits) and the Italeri kits with a Swedish made Bro Wrecker body are the only ones I know of from kits. I have seen some other wreckers on the aftermarket, I have seen a Holmes 750 and I believe KFS had another wrecker but I don't know if they are available.

Yes you are right...I didn't notice that. The valve covers are upsidedown if you look at the bolt pattern, the FE has two bolts on the bottom and three up top, one in the middle and one towards each side slightly lower.

I see now and then people who hasn't followed or even read the instructions on how to mount the tires on the rear wheels on the Revell Peterbilt 359 and Kenworth W900 Aerodyne snap kits. If you do it wrong it looks horrible and if you do it right it looks a lot better...not perfect as these wheels are way too shallow to be realistic...but it is what it is. Here is how you are supposed to do it, the wheel rim goes inside the tire so the outermost lip on the rim is inside the tire, so the rims are not only pushed through the tire like on most of the kits, if you do the outermost lip on the rim shows and it shouldn't. Here is a blown up picture from the instructions on how to do it. And here is how it should look if you have done it right. And if it looks like this you have done it wrong. The right way looks a lot better, doesn't it. Easy as pie. The pictures are not mine except for the blown up instruction picture, the others are borrowed from a couple of threads on this forum.

Njce It's a hard kit to build.

The intake from that engine will not fit the 427 SOHC without modifications. The engine in your picture is a regular Ford FE with wedge heads and the only thing the regular FE 427 and the 427 SOHC has in common is the basic block design. On a Ford FE the intake manifold is wide and the flanges mates up to the heads under the upper lip of the valve covers, the SOHC has a different intake manifold design and the heads are also totally different and the intake manifold mates up to the heads before the valve covers, not under them like it does on a regular FE. Ford 427 SOHC 8 stack fuel injection intake manifold, Hilborn in this case. Regular Ford FE 8 stack intake manifold. Ford FE Weber intake manifold wich looks very close to a 8 stack fuel injection manifold. Notice the mounting flanges for the valve covers and the holes for the push rods.

I agree with you, doing research on what you want to build is part of the fun.

Lo and behold, I got issue #216 today. #212, #213 and #215 are still missing and god knows where they are.

We'll see when and if it shows up here in Umea.