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Aaronw

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Everything posted by Aaronw

  1. Same with Ford, diesels were supposed to be 000 series instead of 00 series, but I've never actually seen a Ford badged like that. I think some of this is just on paper / vin vs badging.
  2. No, there is this badly conceived notion that one can just scan a decal sheet and start cranking out reproductions. This can be done using an inkjet or laser printer to some extent, but the decal quality is limited and only as good as the original image. The decals using this method are transparent so unless you are putting them on white, the underlying color will come through altering the decals. It is also not possible to resize more than a tiny amount without lowering the quality of the image. ALPS printers are desirable not because of their having greater resolution. The design of ALPS printers is rather antiquated and most modern ink jets and laser jet printers have better resolution. ALPS are desirable primarily because they have the ability to print opaque colors, specifically white, but also metallics. Unlike ink jet and laser jet that print in one pass, ALPS print in multiple layers. This requires that an image be broken down into layers which can not be done with just any drawing program. You can not just scan and print with an ALPS, as a jpeg image will not work well. You have to use a vector based drawing program like Adobe Illustrator, Corel Draw, or GIMP (a free, open source drawing program). There are few short cuts so it can take hours to do even simple designs, but the upside is vector based programs are not pixel based so they can be easily rescaled with no loss of quality. Making quality decals is far more labor intensive than most people grasp. Drawing the image is just the start, they also have to be sized and then adjusted to account for the shape of the object they are being applied to. Decals for a Ford Crown Vic will not necessarily work for a Chevrolet Caprice or Dodge Charger. Edit, sorry I went way off on a tangent that is really unrelated to your question.
  3. I love the idea behind this one, but sadly it looks like I'm finishing year 7 on the no building streak. One of these days I'll get back to this.
  4. Bench seat would be incredibly simple to scratch build, it is essentially just a couple of boxes.
  5. No, if anything it will be a boost to truck builders creating more options. If you build super common subjects (1950s60s popular cars) then you may not have an interest in diecast, but for everybody else diecast has often been the only way to get your hands on many vehicles whether that is just to put one on the shelf as is or as the basis for something else.
  6. The ink on home printed decals also tends to crack when cutting close to the artwork, so even if you did print on silver you would have to leave a fairly significant buffer edge. Similar problem printing on white. Your best option may be printing your decal on regular paper, and then using that as a template to cut out your BMF. Then print your decal on clear and put it over the BMF. I've done this with white decal paper to create a white layer that the clear decal is then laid over. ALPS printer is the best home solution, but never cheap and increasingly difficult to get.
  7. Very neat, love seeing quirky cars like this saved. Not surprised that you got it to start so easily. My parents bought a new Toyota Corona in 1970. The body was tin foil, but the engine just wouldn't die. My Dad abused the heck out of that poor little car treating it like a truck and he still got 15 or 16 years out of it. It finally blew a head gasket. By then the body was a mess after having the front end caved in after a car backed into it while parked, later it got sideswiped by a bus. That plus the years of abuse and the head gasket was the end of the line.
  8. I never get tired of the brass work that you put into your models.
  9. I have a selection of nuts, bolts and washers to help with bending rod and tubing, but this is easier once it is made. Adding it to my to do list. 👍
  10. Not all CVTs are the same. Subaru has been working with CVT since the 1980s (an option on the 1989 Subaru Justy). Subaru manufactures their own CVT designed for their cars, where many other automakers outsource theirs from a 3rd party, Jatco supplies many automakers including Nissan who has developed a very poor reputation for its CVTs. CVTs are less complex, smaller and lighter weight than automatic transmissions which makes then well suited to small cars. I prefer a manual but we have a CVT in our Forester and it works just fine, I don't find it any better or worse than most other automatic transmission cars I've driven / owned. It keeps the car in its optimum power band when accelerating so makes the most of the engine power, and it drops to a low RPM when just maintaining speed on the highway for better fuel economy. It absolutely does allow compression braking, when I set the cruise control on a downgrade it does a fantastic job of maintaining my desired speed, and in fact it does a better job of holding speed than even a manual transmission on a downgrade, because it just keeps adjusting the transmission to maintain just the right amount of engine compression. Now actually slowing down with compression braking a manual does better, but just holding speed, I'm impressed at how well the CVT does and I do a lot of hill and mountain driving. CVT is apparently not a great choice for a large vehicle, or for serious towing but they work fine for small to midsize cars.
  11. Nice, Lotus Esprit is one of my favorite 80s cars. The Spy who loved me, was the first James Bond film that I ever saw.
  12. If you can afford an SUV that starts at $350,000, then buying a $40,000 replica is probably an after thought, like most of us buying a nice office chair or fancy swing arm amp for the model bench.
  13. Scale is kind of like aftermarket parts. Like aftermarket parts a larger scale can help to create a "better" model, but it also offers more opportunity to fail. A good paint job in 1/24 may be marginal in 1/12 scale. The larger scale offers more detailing potential, but also requires more detailing. Small stuff nobody would miss in 1/24 may be a glaring omission in 1/12. More detailing offers more potential to do that detailing poorly. As far as scratch built models go, that also goes two ways. A lot more skill and work goes into a 100% scratch built model, but the final model may not look any better than an average builder can do with a plastic kit, despite 50x the work being put into it. Just think about the work and skill hand fabricating everything just to get to 75% of the quality the guy with the plastic kit had just opening the box. How can you judge something like that fairly, what are you even judging, skill involved or simply which one looks better? The scratch built model took oodles more skill, but the box stock plastic model is the better representation. There is a good reason models are usually highly segregated into categories.
  14. I see this brought up a lot with aircraft models and subsequently disproven comparing 1/32 to smaller scales. The idea being 1/32 has bigger parts so is more kindly to aging eyes. If you actually look at kits, the smallest parts tend to be about the same size regardless of scale. The larger scales just tend to have finer detail with many more parts. A larger scale kit literally just scaled up from a smaller kit would be unsatisfying for most. As the scale gets bigger, the detail increases, so a 9 cylinder radial engine in 1/32 might have 10-20 parts (individual cylinder jugs, crank case, wiring harness, exhaust collector etc) while in 1/72 it is probably just 1-3 parts with most detail cast in and all parts larger than the smallest part in that 1/32 engine. This is the same reason why smaller scale kits don't cost a lot less. Material costs are a relatively small portion of kit costs, 2 kits of different scales are not just resized, they have to be re-engineered and have entirely different tooling made for them. The result is a 1/48 scale airplane kit costs $1-2 more than a 1/72 scale kit because that is the material difference, although the finished model is about 1/2 the size, it did not take 1/2 the time to design, mold and package.
  15. No idea on the electrical consumption front, I'm just happy to see that unlike many Toyota is exploring other technological options. EV's work great for some uses, not so much for others. EVs also have their own issues, charging and its toll on the grid will need to be addressed. Lithium extraction is and will continue to be a serious problem. Gasoline and diesel have issues but they are well known and there is a long history of addressing them. Currently as a fuel it is too useful to go away anytime soon. I like options, instead of hoping EV is the solution to all our power issues I'd prefer that we continue to see options explored and then use the most appropriate for each niche. Imagine where we would be if in the 1880s,"they" declared steam power was good enough and pressured those tinkering with internal combustion and electric drive systems to give up and just focus on steam.
  16. Agree, EVs have their place but the push to make EV the answer for everything is misguided in my opinion. A great option in densely packed urban areas with relatively short drives and lots of charging opportunities, not so much in areas where things are more spread out. I'd really like to see the push for other than gas / diesel include more options. Toyota has been a leader in hybrid technology and they are now looking at hydrogen as a fuel source. Unless people reign in their fear of nuclear power the added demand of EVs is going to stress the grid. EVs currently account for about 1% of the cars on the road, it will get interesting when they account for 10%, 20% 50%.
  17. I know people like to laugh at the idea of powering an electric car with a generator but that is essentially what a Toyota Prius hybrid does, as do most trains. Diesel electric trains arrived in 1925 and have dominated rail travel since the early 1960s. Using a gas or diesel generator to provide the electricity to electric motors is much more efficient than directly powering the wheels with the engine, because the engine runs constantly at its most efficient rpm. Diesel electric buses are being used and they lack the characteristic diesel plume on startup / acceleration. Even after years of use their exhaust stacks are clean, not black and sooty. So yeah, I get it, funny idea, and personally I'd think a hybrid would be smarter for this use, but recharge with a generator isn't actually a crazy idea.
  18. Something else to consider when looking at photos, is if you see something odd, it is not uncommon to see 2wd trucks from the 1960s and early 70s converted to 4x4, because there were just a lot more 2wd trucks compared to later periods. 4x4 options were also quite limited, 1 ton 4x4 trucks were almost always conversions before the mid 1970s. Except for Jeep and Dodge 4x4 was almost always an aftermarket conversion in the 1950s and earlier. Demand was just growing enough by the late 1950s to see manufacturers start offering actual factory built 4x4 trucks (GM 1957, Ford 1959) rather than dealer installed kits. In 1960 only 4% of Ford trucks were 4x4, by 1971 it was up to 6% and in 1979 26% of Ford trucks were 4x4.
  19. So this is #5? 😄 Laughing with you, not at you. Old machinery is neat, and often fairly inexpensive making it easy to unintentionally start collecting. $50, sure I can use another table saw... The little tractor is nice too.
  20. Maybe a 4Runner? it shares a chassis with the Tacoma so are actually a truck and built tougher. The Highlander and RAV4 are built on a lighter weight car chassis (share a chassis with Camry and Corolla). Really hard to beat Toyota for reliability. Sequoia is based on the Tundra so would be another option, but much larger, more expensive and pretty awful fuel economy. I've had a 1996 Tacoma and currently own a 2008 Tundra. Great trucks, the Tacoma was pretty easy on fuel (4 cyl) with a solid 26mpg but I can't say the same for the Tundra, maybe 15mpg. I've also got a 2014 Subaru Forester, it has been a great car, does amazingly well in bad weather, but it is not a truck, and suspect it would suffer from similar issues to your Highlander.
  21. Sorry to hear this, Dave has always been great to deal with.
  22. Hate changing the clocks and agree standard time would be the preferred. I suspect the senate bill picked daylight savings because that is what several states have proposed doing. The reason the states pick daylight savings over standard is because the current law only allows that. States had the option of not doing it, but once they adopted Daylight savings, their only option out is permanent daylight savings, staying on standard is not an option. That would not apply to congress since they wrote the original law. In typical lazy politician mode I'm guessing Rubio (who is behind the bill) just copied and pasted the Florida proposal word for word. I've never understood the concept, if your job requires daylight then do what most people do regardless of DST and adjust your schedule.
  23. I have several old cars, I like them. The idea that they are trouble free is hilarious. They can be very reliable so long as you stay on top of the recommended maintenance which is far more frequent than a modern car. Find something putting out a similar amount of power from similar displacement engine back then and the word reliable is probably never used for it. A truck in the 80s with 200hp (stock) was doing pretty good, it is hard to find a truck today that only has 200hp.
  24. That really isn't fair, on older cars things needed more frequent access for service so they needed to be easier to get to. Many current cars have minimal service requirements before reaching 100,000 miles, basically oil changes and air filter. In the 1980s 100,000 miles was the reasonable life expectancy of many cars and you were certainly going to be getting service done before 100,000 miles if you were hoping to reach that. Even something as simple as oil changes has gone from a recommended every 3000 miles to 5000+. Subaru's are particularly sensitive to oil issues and even they only recommend every 6000 miles, some brands are as high as 10,000 miles between oil changes for normal driving. Figure 15,000 miles a year, that is going to be maybe 2 oil changes a year compared to 5.
  25. It used to be easy to buy used low mileage engines from Japan with something like 50,000 miles on them.
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