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Everything posted by Aaronw

  1. I wasn't going to do any group builds as in recent years my completion record has been awful, but I'm in. The idea of the Peking to Paris race is too good to pass on, and since it is very unlikely I could ever do the real race I can at least do it in scale. I not only didn't finish last time but I barely even got started beyond the planning stages. To add insult to injury I haven't built anything since then so to find that was 3 years ago really hurts. That does explain the cobwebs at the model bench (sadly not joking). Maybe this is the push to clear the bench and build something. I'll go with a Model T again as I at least had a lot of fun planning it out. There are actually a couple of Model As that have completed the real race. Gravel roads were a luxury in those days so probably nothing new for a lot of those old cars.
  2. Don't the Revell 1990 Ford F250 and F350 Dually truck kits have a 460?
  3. Another source of expanded metal is frying pan spatter screens. Many just use fine woven screens like the screen on a window or screen door, but some use really fine expanded metal. Can't go wrong with any relative of a Dodge Power Wagon. I'm sure this is going to be another great project. The trailer pump is great too.
  4. I've found both. When I was looking for a booth, I looked hard at Pace, and very nearly bought one. I talked to quite a few people who had them on several model sites. A lot of people were happy with theirs, but I also ran across a fair number who were disappointed in its performance. I suspect being satisfied or not largely comes down to the exhaust, the size, distance, material and how straight it is. 3 feet straight out the window probably works ok, buying a 30 foot piece of flex hose and leaving the whole 30 feet laying willy nilly between the booth and the exit, is going to result in terrible flow. Looking at recommendations for a booth the size of the pace mini (24x14" opening) ideally should have a 235cfm fan on the low end, so with only 148cfm it needs all the help it can get. Looking at your set up it appears you and the OP have a similar run but you have rigid ducting, and possibly larger ducting (5"?) vs 4" flex duct on his. The info on air flow, and friction loss of ducting is readily available to look up.
  5. Mine is 24" wide so about the same size as the pace mini but I put a 465 cfm blower on it, Pace uses a 148cfm blower. I considered one of the Pace booths, but after pricing materials I was able to build one for about 1/2 what they wanted. Mine is made from plywood so it is heavy but it lives over in its corner and doesn't need to move. They look like a well made booth so it is a shame that they use such a small blower, it would only add another $30 to go to a 265cfm, and probably less since they would be buying in bulk. Maybe they assume people will just use an airbrush with it.
  6. I just read a lot when I built my booth. The more I read the more I found that the Pace booths are fairly marginal in choice of fan output, although this is not surprising since the blower is the most expensive part of the booth. Yes I would suggest trying a bigger duct, if it works it is a cheap fix, and if you end up putting a bigger fan on there you will still want a bigger duct for it, 4" is very restrictive.
  7. Those Pace booths use the bare minimum fans and poor motor placement (top mount is the least efficient) so good ducting is critical. Bigger ducting is also worthwhile, 5" can offer double the flow of 4" and 6" can be as much as 4x the flow of 4". Many people use the 4" because it is easy to find but that is meant for a dryer which usually has a short run and is just exhausting hot air so the flow is less critical. They do make 5" and 6" flex ducting if you need to stick to the flex style, but rigid ducting causes less restriction, so maybe you can run as much rigid as possible and then make up the difference with flex. Also avoid hard bends if possible, a hard 90 can cause as much as 4x the restriction of airflow and a gentle 90 of some distance. This is where flex hose can start to even out with rigid pipe. Flex inherently causes a loss of flow, but flex that can follow a generally straight path may be equal to or better than a rigid set up with many sharp bends. In your case with the odd angles needed using 5 or 6" with flex line at each end and a straight piece of rigid pipe in the middle may be your best option.
  8. That is quite a brute. Our trees are sturdier out west. 🙂 In parts if MA, NJ and NY there are areas where the combination of soft soil and shallow rooted tree species will allow these big brush trucks to push over the smaller trees and brush to make their own roads. If you get out into Nevada, Utah, Eastern Oregon, and Southern Idaho, you can find some similar brush trucks, but without the cages since they mostly just have to push through sage brush. Pinyon and Juniper trees have deep roots to survive in the desert so they don't move easily and trying to push them over with anything smaller than a D6 CAT does not usually end well. It is on my bucket list to get to see a Cape Cod Brush Breaker or New Jersey Stump Jumper in action (preferably from one of the nozzle operator's seats). A very different experience from how we do things out west.
  9. Hard to tell with the glare but it looks like the Bronco might have Police above the seal, just heavily washed out due to the glare. There is some sort of lettering there and it is of the correct length for POLICE, that is not just blank white door panel above the HB. Neat project.
  10. I think this last bit will result in a major shift. Why would you own a car at that point, just use a car service. Instead of having a car sit in your garage or parking lot at work 1/2 to 2/3 of the time, just rent and schedule a pickup when you need it. No drivers to pay so they can have a fleet sitting around in strategic locations. Sure there will be some who own a car for their specific needs, rural areas or frequent short notice driving, as a status symbol etc, but I think over time a large number will give up car ownership. That is assuming they get past the occasional freak accident like plowing into the side of a semi because the computer didn't recognize the trailer as an obstacle in the roadway. I think most of the members here are primarily of the when you pry the keys from my cold dead fingers variety (who'd of guessed a place called Model Cars would be full of people who love cars), but a lot of people hate driving and have no attachment to automobiles. For those people self driving cars cannot get here soon enough.
  11. This is looking great. The bench seats in the back are an amazing detail, they really have that well used heavy duty upholstery look to them.
  12. This is just moving right along. Love the hinges and support rod for the hood. I've never seen one of these in real life, and assumed they had butterfly hoods like many trucks of that era.
  13. The more I look at it, I may be best off separating the hood like you did, and then making new side panels for it from styrene. The top of the hood, cab, fenders and such all look the same, but the sides look like they come to more of a point, the badging is different and it also has those side vents. Kind of amazing how many little things you don't notice until you start to look for them.
  14. Unless I can find an example built on the later chassis, but I think the state just bought the one batch of REOs in '49. The grill is a little different, but looks to be mostly the same shapes. I have been collecting information on the cab for many years with the idea of trying to make one. Just making a few changes will be much nicer. I've barely even touched the model bench in the past couple years but am finally starting to regain the interest.
  15. That Newton rescue truck looks like ex-civil defense, I bet you see one of these cabs get used for one of those. This is what I had in mind, so the fenders shouldn't be an issue. This particular example is a '49 so some minor differences, but a lot closer than starting from scratch. I love these cabs, I was really tempted to buy an engine like this one that was for sale locally even though it is the wrong agency. Only room for one in the driveway though and I wanted a green one so I let it go.
  16. Neat idea for a project. I remember seeing those big searchlights when I was a kid. I saw one a few years ago but was very disappointed when I got closer and it was a modern version, bright but just a little thing.
  17. The Pierce was nice, but it is your work on vintage trucks that really gets me excited. This should be a great project to watch. I've had this style of REO on my list for a long time, so thank you for mastering the one at AITM. I now have one on the way and will be watching your construction of it closely.
  18. Good I hope you enjoy it. Just having a decent lathe to play with will teach you so much.
  19. Just revisiting this since I have had more time playing with the Taig. 99% of what I said I still fully agree with, Sherline is in my opinion the better machine, however on cost I'm going to step back a bit. Having bought a few more accessories for the Taig there is a pretty substantial difference in cost. Comparing tool holders, (and you will want several of these) Taig charges $5, Sherline $13 for the basic and $31 for the improved rocker style which Taig doesn't even offer. You can get a Taig radius cutter for $22, Sherline's is $126. The Taig Compound slide is $54, Sherline $131. A Taig 3.4" 3 jaw chuck is $70, Sherline's 2.5" 3 jaw is $105, and their 3.1" 3 jaw is $147. Now this difference in price is more than just brand identity and marketing, the manufacturing quality of the Sherline accessories is notably better. Better finish, and more refined designs, but the Taig accessories are quite functional for the task. This is not a matter as with some import goods where you have to finish the job to make them work well. The quality control of everything I've gotten from Taig is well made, they just make choices that allow them to make their parts less pretty but also for less money. To put this in terms that may make sense here think of Sherline as a modern Tamiya kit, and Taig as a really good Monogram kit. Hope this helps with your decision.
  20. Not exactly related to the topic at hand, but the article on your Volare Road Runner is one of my favorites. I was a kid in the 70s so performance (or lack of it) didn't mean much, but those flashy decal covered late 70s "muscle cars" worked their marketing magic on me. ?
  21. Looks good. With the retro thing being so popular with the automakers I'm surprised Jeep or one of the big custom shops hasn't offered something like this in full scale.
  22. If you have been using the Testors brands, our options have been declining for years. First they killed off Polyscale and Floquil, then there has been a relentless drive to cut back on their remaining lines. Testors is owned by a large paint company that apparently has little interest in supplying hobbyists with paint, but at the same time they still dominate the US hobby paint market. Tamiya and Vallejo are the two main alternatives and each have some limitations, Games Workshop is another, but again also has some limitations. I can certainly see being excited to try out a new paint that is getting good reviews.
  23. I've gotten to walk through a couple of small fire apparatus builders shops, and seeing the real ones in production, very much like you show here was such a light bulb moment for me. In 2001 I went to Boise to pick up a new engine from Boise Mobile Equipment and while there I got a tour of the facility. Up to that point I had just seen the whole truck and the idea of scratch building one seemed to be way beyond me. After walking through the plant and seeing the piles of sheet metal, and tubing, components waiting to be installed and apparatus in various stages of completion suddenly I saw it as Evergreen plastic and the "it is lots of little models" idea clicked in my head. After that what seemed impossible, suddenly just seemed difficult. A couple of photos I took (still used film in those days so I didn't take very many). and the finished one I was there to pick up. No place to put the spare so they just bolted it to the bumper, very classy. ?
  24. '54 Chevy truck based on the '50 kit. They have a good snap kit and full detail kit to work with, so mostly just need to do the cab for either. a '52 GMC would be a fairly easy modification as well, mostly a change in the grill. Technically GMC used a different I-6 engine, but they are very close in appearance so could probably be ignored. Considering how many times that kit has been reissued over the past several years it seems to sell well enough. They could also offer a longer bed 3/4 ton, or maybe a 1 ton. Not sure how much the chassis changes for a 1 ton, but I think mostly wheelbase and springs. With a heavier truck a tow truck package (just tow equipment in the bed for that period) could be done as well. Quite a few options available there and they mostly feed from each other allowing even more options. I think a similar thing could be done with the '55/57 kits as well to create a '58/59 and / or GMC variants. In these years I think GMC had a different enough engine though that they would have to kit a new engine to make it right. Then there is the '60 Chevy pickup. Again GMC would be a nice option that wouldn't take a ton of work. In this one they should tool up the GMC V-6 for it. A long bed stepside would be welcome as well. A NAPCO 4x4 conversion for any of the '50-59 trucks would also be fairly easy, as they wee add on parts on the 1-1 trucks, so just need to add the parts to a kit. The 67-72 Chevy / GMC truck is an older kit desperately in need of some attention, but with a good foundation to work with. A very popular truck in 1-1, as are the 1950s Chevys.
  25. Agree this is not something easy to buy without looking and touching, but a little math can help. At 13 links to the inch that works out to about 2" links (1 scale foot is 1/2" in 1/24 so 6.5 links to the foot = 1.85 scale inches in 1/24 or 1.92" in 1/25), that seems like pretty big chain to me, 15 links to the inch is 1.6 scale inches per link which seems more appropriate. Maybe even 18-20 links / inch (1.2-1.35 scale inches). I have some chain I got to tie down a dozer on a flatbed that looks about right for that. It doesn't say the size, but I measure it at 14 links per inch and it looks decent for a heavy chain for that task. Looking at the photos, I'd guess that is a little lighter weight chain on the tow truck. There is a towing company around the corner from me, I'll see if I can get an idea of the size chain they use on their trucks.
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