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RickRollerLT1

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About RickRollerLT1

  • Birthday 02/18/1993

Previous Fields

  • Scale I Build
    1/24th,1/25th

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  • Location
    New York
  • Full Name
    Richard Manri

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MCM Ohana (6/6)

  1. Tamiya kit fresh off 'da bench! Modifications are 6.2L 2014 Corvette LT V8 mated to a Borg-Warner T6. Vortech Supercharger and new headers were added. Dual exhaust system was made using remains of the stock exhaust and a Camaro ZL1. Rear bumper had cutouts to allow for the dual tips. Wheels and tires are the custom units from a Revell '09 Challenger, and Recaro seats from a Dodge Viper. Exterior is a Dark Metallic Green custom mixed using Tamiya Racing Blue and Clear Orange, all cleared with Pledge.
  2. Revell/Monogram #‎7494 fresh off 'da bench! Those side skirt/fender flair pieces were warped and torqued like mad! Required lots of careful bending (and filler to repair broken spots right in the centers). Modifications are Turbo setup, and wheels and tires from a Shelby Series 1. Exterior is Tamiya TS-97 Pearl Yellow, cleared with Pledge.
  3. ...or how to make Orangeade from moldy Oranges! Built from this issue of the old decrepit AMT 66 Mustang. "Special" features are custom drag slick tires that are wayyyyyyy to wide for this car, badly molded leftover parts from earlier issues, loads of flash, very ill fitting body parts, and the worlds saddest decal sheet (generic 1986 MUSTANG vanity plate and a I ❤️ Model Cars sticker) (Pic from the interwebs) The funky lookin' boxart car leaves much to be desired, but the newly parts like the seats, steering wheels, wheels/tires, and 427-ish motor are pretty decent. First course of action was ditching the 1960s half baked promo style frame. Was looking for a spare '67 to cut up it's engine bay and guts up, didn't have any but did locate a spare unmolested chassis from a AMT '68 GT500. Free of molded promo junk and was a perfect fit underneath the '66, but it was clear other modifications were needed as the inner front fender wells were too narrow for the custom wheels and the rears well were nothing at all. The fronts were replaced with wiiidddeee rear fender wells and the fronts in the rears from a old Revell '03 Dodge Viper frame. Front and rear suspensions were from a C6 Vette and a '96 Impala SS respectively, with doodads like sway bars, brakes, ect. coming from the spares bin. The Resto Rod 427 had it's tranny cut off and lent to another project. A spare 5.8 L from a AMT '94 Ford Lightning SVT was used, with the automatic swapped out with a Borg Warner T56 trans cut from a '93-02 Camaro/Firebird LT/LS1. The 5.8 was fitted with custom headers, custom intake, and a vortech supercharger setup. Exhaust system was modified from the '68 GT500 with mufflers and exhaust tips from a Corvette of some era. After hours of sanding and finessing of the body, the custom front and rear bumper pans and hood scoop were used. The custom rear bumper was used as-is, but the front bumper had the lower parts shaved off to match the look of the boxart car. These were dechromed and resprayed Rustoluem Bright Chrome. Rear spoiler from a '82 MPC Trans Am was used since it worked so well with the lines of the '66. Front grill was discarded and used mesh in place. Interior uses the Resto Rods seats and steering wheel, and the leftover 60s custom roll cage. The center console automatic stuff wouldn't mesh with the T56 so a six speed shifter was raided from the spares bin replacing the auto stick. Front headlights were missing, so spares were used from a :66 Chevy C-10 grille. Exterior is a custom mixed Orange Crush Pearl made using Rustoluem orange with a mist of Tamiya TS-97 Pearl Yellow and cleared with Pledge. Since I was 10, I had always wanted a custom Pearl Orange Mustang ever since having some in the Need for Speed Underground and Most Wanted games. Almost 20 years later, I got my wish.
  4. Since R2 has the 007 license (with the 73 Mustang and 70 Ford Interceptor to go by), I'd be a no brainer to repop the Austin Martin DB-6 and Toyota 2000GT vert. Unlike several other MPC molds that were butchered back and forth, those two were only issued once and should be intact.
  5. ^Agreed. Using a enamel/lacquer primer underneath will make it easier for the Purple/Super Clean to undo a botch job with a Tamiya final coat. PP/SC will weaken and take off any loose glue joints and filler work too, so be careful there. I don't use Tamiya primer myself (mainly due to high costs for such a small can) and hearing it can be a PTA to remove under any coats. I had dealt in restoring gluebombs where the bodies werepainted Testors/Rustoluem/Krylon (which came off like melted butter with PP/SC) but the primer layer (in those cases, probably Tamiya or Duplicolor) underneath was almost indestructible. 91% rubbing alcohol with a tiny swig of Testors jar paint thinner takes care of that pesky layer! Very rarely there be a situation where a primer coat would not only just be unaffected by PP/SC and 91% rubbing alcohol, but had real bad crazing that even ate into the body! I encountered this once with a built up '02 Camaro SS, the body painted this runny, bubbly Yellow and looked flat and very gritty due to heavy crazing. Stripping the yellow reveled a grey primer coat that was resistant to PP/SC. Put it in a 91% bath alcohol with touch of Testors paint thinner, 3 days the bath was grey but the body turned into light grey! The primer coat some dunderhead builder used was most likely a self etching type and was so strong, it indented itself into the plastic applied on! Quick wipe had no leftover pigments, but when sanding down everything was greyish white. Had to do 800grit sanding on most of the body parts followed by 1200, and luckily the True Value grey primer coat filled in the bad crazing from the old paintjob.
  6. Revell/Monogram #‎7360 (snap version) fresh off 'da bench! Snap kit similar to the glue versions, only with the motor and rear suspension becoming simplified blobs. Rear suspension was upgraded with the one from a old built '02 SS. 427 Big Block came off an old Revell '69 Corvette build, with the 93's Borg Warner T56 tranny cut to adapt and custom fuel injected setup. Added cowl induction scoop using leftover custom piece from an MPC Toyota Celica Supra. Adapted well to the stock hood with some filling and such. Wheels and tires are from an Aoshima Bomex RX7. Exterior replicates what GM calls "Dark Green Gray Metallic", custom mixed using Tamiya Racing Blue and Clear Orange and cleared with Pledge. This attempt came out much better than and the Midnight Purple turning out Maroon on the '93 Trans Am.
  7. Last I checked, Walmart, Michael's, local hardwar places, and Hobby Lobby stores in my area had Krylon sprays. Not that I used them much (since I primarily use Rustoluem, Tamiya, and cheap no name sprays), but just a heads up.
  8. Sucks hearing about the paint as dat Maroon looked really boss! Rustoluem is Enamel Lacquer and it looks like the clear reaction in the door creases were spots that weren't dried or cured all the way. How long did you let the paint cure before the clear coat? I've had real bad luck with clear sprays in the past, those old Testors enamels were the absolute worst! No matter if sanding down, waiting for low humidity days, or waiting months to cure they're widely inconsistent. Next time you clear, I'd recommend ether Pledge Future/Revive It (if you can find it now as it's OOP) or Quick Shine Multi-Surface Floor Finish (which I'm hearing works well as a replacement for that OOP Pledge product). I've had good results with Pledge Revive it and it can be brushed/dunked on or sent through an airbrush. One tip I'd strongly recommend is having the body fully cure between 7 days for lacquers/acrylics and up to 3 weeks for enamels before application, as the Pledge can react to uncured paint and cause what is called "Spider webbing".
  9. Not today, but on Tuesday Hobby lobby not only got new stuff in and had a 40% off sale, but... They finally got these suckers in! Walked out the door $44 for the two! Then on Friday after helping out GF, I went to another HL on my way back and grabbed another two of these before the sale ends! One of them was opened missing wheels & tires and the cashier did it 60% off. No more paying Evilbay prices for original issues! Surprised I didn't see any of these new issues up there (yet).
  10. If you have the monster truck versions (which are based on the C-1500 tool), those have the same glass. The monster truck was most recently issued as the USA-1 and the Coca Cola.
  11. This also shares guts with their 78-81 Pontiac Firebirds. This tool was last seen in 2006-7 as the 1979 Firebird Street Machine (green car on box). I remember building the Firebird issue because of the crazy widebody kit on the box, but seeing the chassis and motor, blegghhhh!!!! I remember 14 year old me hacked up a dirt cheap C5 corvette and used it's guts and frame underneath the Firebird. Granted my execution 2007 era was, shall we say "not the best", but I had the right idea. Basically, if one has the skill and parts they can create iced tea lemonaid out of moldy teabags and rancid lemons.
  12. RickRollerLT1

    GTO

    Is this the Revell '67 goat! Looks great overall! The "flatness" you experienced is due to the paint reacting to the plastic. Many kits starting from the "Made in China" era are molded in plastic that is very susceptible to reacting (and sometimes melting) with certain solvents. Using a good enamel/lacquer primer underneath will (in most cases) not react with the plastic surface and allow you to use any type of paint you want over it. The Tamiya paints are really good, but they tend to be very hot on modern plastics so you must use a good base coat with primer underneath. Also helps to have a flat or gloss black base coat (over the primer) before the metallic finisher coat of your choice. This will make the metallic highlights pop better than just putting the main coat over grey primer or just the bare body alone.
  13. Revell/Monogram #‎2965 (glue version) fresh off 'da bench! Added Ram-air style scoop comes from a '98 Firebird Formula, adapted well to the '93 hood with some filling and such. Scratchbuilt Pro-charger setup using parts from a Revell Saleen Mustang Speedster. Wheels are from the Revell 'Vette Agin with the backs and tires off a Revell Ford F-150 Lightning. Exterior is a Metallic Maroon custom mixed using Tamiya Mica Blue and Clear Red, cleared with Pledge. The aim was to replicate Midnight Purple and the results turning out Maroon I was not happy with originally. But the Brown interior helps it go well and grew on me after a while.
  14. Hopefully next week is a 40% off week so I can gets me two or three of those MPC Supras!
  15. Finished back in May. Built from a started (quite sad) Revell original 1992 issue. It was quite glued up in places, the frame and hood were badly warped, and parts of the body and fender flares/side trim were cracked and (sloppily) reglued together. Sanding and filler took care of most of the heavy glue and broken joints on the body and cab, and an old '92 S-10 builder raided for parts had a pristine hood and a much better frame to work with. Unfortunately, the V6 and 4WD was so badly gunked up with glue and not only a motor swap was in order, but a conversion to RWD also needed. Front suspension was taken and modified from a C5 'Vette, and rear suspension modded and extended from a AMT '95 Camaro. An LT1 was also sourced from the AMT '95 Camaro with a custom Vortech supercharger setup made from an old turbo and curved sprue. Valve covers and headers came from the 350 in the AMT '34 Ford Coupe. The stock exhaust was badly glue smeared and in pieces, so a custom side exhaust was made using mufflers and stuff from the spares bin and sprue. Other parts like radiator, seats, steering wheel, came from the spares bin. Brakes, wheels are from an old X-mods set sitting on the rear custom tires from a Revel MCM '02 Camaro. A 2011 issue of the Syclone had extra decals from a leftover build and were used to replace the badly water damaged ones in the started '92 issue. Also had spare Coca Cola decals from a AMT Ford Pinto, so figured why not use those and make a CC Syclone! Exterior is Tamiya TS-74 Clear Red over Rustoluem Aluminum, cleared with Pledge. TBH, the red and black are true Coca Cola colors as the whites are only accents and not used on interiors like R2 tends to do.
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