RickRollerLT1

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About RickRollerLT1

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    MCM Avid Poster
  • Birthday 02/18/1993

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  • Scale I Build 1/24th,1/25th

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  • Location New York
  • Full Name Richard Manri

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RickRollerLT1's Activity

  1. RickRollerLT1 added a post in a topic Michael's Clearance, Selected Car Kits   

    I tried it one time with a ACM coupon from my email on the phone and the cashier said the coupons were fake as they lacked a barcode... yet there was one RIGHT THERE IN PLAIN FLIPPIN SIGHT!!!  While most places accept coupons phone coupons digital form (even from 3rd party apps like RetailMeNot), ether the local ACM doesn't from their own, or the girl that day wanted to clock out instead of staying after her shift. To the point, I usually bring circular coupons whenever I go there as it seems its easier for them to take those, along with the fact there are some who think that anything digital is fake and get nasty if you tell them that this store accepts them, but they don't know how/or don't want to. 
  2. RickRollerLT1 added a post in a topic Michael's Clearance, Selected Car Kits   

    Are the General (Custer) Lees on clearance yet? Since R2 discontinued then, they are still 21.99 at the last store I checked.
    Gasman, is that all the new stock they just got in? What others did you see? Kinda related to craft stores, I did see the new Revell '67 Nickey Camaro at an AC Moore yesterday but lacked the magical circular coupon, so hopefully they still have it before itsa gone!
  3. RickRollerLT1 added a post in a topic Painting/priming over a Red or Yellow molded body?   

    Thanks guys! Like I said, I looked up every single search about bleedthrough and just tried about everything in the book. 
    For the newer plastics bit, yeah I noticed that when I used to use Krylon Fusion during my early days. It took a while to find a good cheap primer to handle that plastic type, but then I found the K-mart primer I use doesn't craze it, so that became my standard primer as its equal to Tamiya Fine Primer and more efficient at cost.  Its not just this generation of kits with this phenomenon, as there's a lot of older kits (80s Revell Ciji and some retail sold MPC kits like the KITT) with plastic so "thin" in some spots, you could put finger underneath and it would show through! My Firebird's plastic is kinda thin being a SnapTite meant for retail (there was a story about how model manufactures used better plastic for the kits sold at hobby shops but lesser grade for the big boxes) , so that may be why the Duplicolor crazed it. 
    I will be trying Rustoluem automotive primer/sealer as its enamel/lacquer (same type as the K-mart stuff I use), so crazing may not be as much of an issue unlike the Duplicolor.
  4. RickRollerLT1 added a post in a topic Painting/priming over a Red or Yellow molded body?   

    Normally I mix and match various paint brands and get very good results. I would first prime with the cheap Quick and Easy primer, then to cover the gray for good measure I lay down Wal-mart Colorplace flat white for bright glossy colors or flat black for glossy blacks or metallics. For the bright colors, the final coats over the flat white will ether be Colorplace gloss white, red, blue, or sometimes the Tamiya/Rustoluem/Valspar/Krylon gloss variety for different colors like yellows, etc. On top of the flat black coat, its gloss black or a Rustoluem silver base coat to put Tamiya or Krylon X metals over. No reactions or ill effects at all with this method.
    But in this instance I kept paint brands the same for safety measures because I was told "you can't go wrong sticking with the same brands". Well, everything's going wrong here!  I tried the silver trick again, this time with Duplicolors on a spare red piece and the same thing happened! I will try the Tamiya trick too but I doubt that would work ether, since the same thing happened with my standard paint methods.
  5. RickRollerLT1 added a post in a topic Painting/priming over a Red or Yellow molded body?   

    I tried that too as I mentioned in the 1st post (not Tamiya). Still had the bleed through and I tried everything!  I will be trying the Rustoluem Primer/Sealer next.
  6. RickRollerLT1 added a post in a topic Painting/priming over a Red or Yellow molded body?   

    I do everything with light coats at first then go heavier. But in this case, because the crazing was starting after the initial light spray, I knew more coats wouldn't cover it (no pun intended). After letting it dry for 2 days, I sanded the 1st Duplicolor coat then applied another coat and the crazing still happened! I figured the crazing would go away once tie color is on, so I let it dry fully, then sanded AGAIN and tried Duplicolor Gloss white (with light coats), gave me extreme wrinkling (or what looked like major orange peel) but hardly any red bleed. Thankfully, the DP stripped off because I got to it quickly before the coats fully cured and etched into the body. So attempt 2: Being I have a can of Tamiya Fine Primer I got when it was cheaper a few years ago, I also tried the Tamiya Primer suggestion the 2nd poster brought up. The 1st coat bleed like the standard Q&E primer I was using, so I knew that wouldn't go well ether. I will also try Rustoluem Automotive primer/sealer, as that's enamel/lacquer like the K-mart stuff so I shouldn't get heavy crazing like the Duplicolor. I'm a little scared about putting Duplicoat primer over Testors Lacquers Primer. The latter I believe are actually Enamel-lacquers, and being Duplicolor is full Lacquer, I would smell a bad reaction happening. But if it works for you and it is proven, I may give it a shot (hopefully is isn't more money wasted... like I have a wad of cash burning in my pocket right now!). 
    Could it be this dammed plastic they were using back then has some crazy dye in it? Lucky for you, Yellow isn't as chaotic as red molded bodies and most metallic colors cover up its bleedthrough, so those are easier for you. As I said before, this is not extremely critical as its a test for future projects, and being I have another white molded body for my White 2JZ project the red molded body will be used to rebuild my red 2JZ powered Firebird from 2009.
  7. RickRollerLT1 added a post in a topic Tamiya paint   

    As with all spray paints (especially Testors) you should start with light coats at a distance (not too close to the body, but not super far ether) then hit it heavier. Additional care should be made under high humidity conditions. 
  8. RickRollerLT1 added a topic in Model Building Questions and Answers   

    Painting/priming over a Red or Yellow molded body?
    I have bodies that are molded in red (like the Monogram '85 Fiero GT and the Revell '93 Firebird Trans Am SnapTite) and would like to paint them a bright color like White or Light Blue. Yes, I prime my bodies (K-Mart Quick and Easy Gray Primer, almost flawless results otherwise) and yada yada, but I have experienced in the past the red molded color spectrum (like dark red, pink, etc) bleeds through turning giving a pinkish hue (bleed through).
    This also occurs with Yellow and bright Greens too, also giving a yellowish bleedthrough. I have done many topic searches and tried many tricks, including one of spraying silver or flat brown as a neutral color on the body then primer and the color, bleedthrough would still occur at the silver or the even the gray primer coat. I even tried the Future trick, as not only it still bleed through the primer but it reacted with the Future coat that fully dried for 3 days, causing severe wrinkling. I even got a can of Duplicolor Automotive Primer/Sealer and while that seemed to do the trick, it caused such severe crazing on the Firebird body that sanding and additional coats made it worse (It should strip off, hopefully).
    Are there any proven ways to overcome this paintbump? At worst, I could paint the other one red or black and use a spare white molded Firebird/TA body for my project. But when I do future projects molded in red and yellow and want to paint them bright colors without bleedthrough hues, then without spare white molded bodies I'd be SOL unless its gonna be black or matching the molded color.
    • 12 replies
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  9. RickRollerLT1 added a post in a topic INSPIRED THINKING- Cheap Tips for Frugal Modelers   

    I agree with 100% of this post! I putt down to the LHS's for certain kits and paints (the latter mainly Tamiya) no other retailer has. But it is wise to find alternatives modeling paint/tools at the big retailers and hardwares stores, which are cheaper for more quantity and in most cases, provide the same results as the 5x priced speicalty hobby brand that is of lesser quantity. For example, if Tamiya gray primer if near $20 for just ONE 6oz friggin can and Quick and Easy brand primer sold at K-mart is $3.00 for a 12 oz, I could get six cans at the same price for one can of Tamiya primer and not only have more to last than one body but the Q/E is the best primer i've ever used and always lays down smooth. 
  10. RickRollerLT1 added a post in a topic Removing Chrome Plating   

    Purple Power is for me babs! Not only does it take off chrome in less than 5 mins, but can strip off the worst and thickest of paints within 3 days or so. If the paint is Testors one coat lacquer or the icky enamel sprays, its about a day or so if it was applied without a primer underneath (with it, maybe a little longer).
  11. RickRollerLT1 added a post in a topic Using Pledge Floor Care Tile & Vinyl Floor Finish with Future Shine   

    As i've been using it for many years, I too have experienced this "spider cracking" phenomenon over the course of a couple projects. I notice it has to do with the type of paint and how long it "cured". It doesn't matter if your paint is glossy or semi-gloss, it has to cure for at least a week or two even if its dry to touch. There were times I thought "the paint is super dry after two days so it must be cured enough" and applied it, after a few minutes it would crack like a mutha and caused repaints!
     
    I also notice it reacts very badly with Testors enamels and some of the one coat lacquers, so i'd give three or more weeks with curing with those.
     
    But overall, I get very good results and sometimes the cracking is very minor that I just ignore it. It cannot be any worse than my experiences with clear sprays that would fog like ship!
  12. RickRollerLT1 added a post in a topic Round 2 new releases for 2016   

    I asked the guys at the booth about some of the kits they had advertised (mainly the Tyrone Malone trucks, my Dad and I want a drag truck and the Papa hauler for each of us .) The Pacer Custom will be a 2 in 1 and have the stock parts included.
  13. RickRollerLT1 added a post in a topic Chatroom?   

    Sorry, I thought you did or have at one point, being you're an admin and have a big part in the MCM. I was only going by what a club member told me. May have been Gregg since he made topics clear of that.
  14. RickRollerLT1 added a post in a topic Chatroom?   

    Someone told me that before the site redesign, several members got into fights with a guy called John Teresi, and then Gregg took down the chat feature and Harry went on a banning spree. But then for some reason it was put back in the redesign and no one knows why. I'm not wanting anyone in the chatroom badly, but I'm curious as to why its so empty now when 6 years ago (when I was very active on here), there were like 6-9 ppl in it.
  15. RickRollerLT1 added a post in a topic Chatroom?   

    Works 4 me, but no one wants to talk and I just leave. Guess something happened and the rules got stricter so no one wants to get banned. Sorry if I don't know what happened, its been a while since I was here and it looks different for some reason.