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RickRollerLT1

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About RickRollerLT1

  • Rank
    MCM Avid Poster
  • Birthday 02/18/1993

Previous Fields

  • Scale I Build
    1/24th,1/25th

Profile Information

  • Location
    New York
  • Full Name
    Richard Manri

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  1. Normally i'm not in to these (and supposedly they're rare for being kinda curbsides), but a few years ago I saw the '97 HHO reissue and the 1980 Street Freak issues cheap as some shows and figured what the hey. White/Red/Blue is the 1997 issue of the Hurst Harry Olds (in the vintage Monogram boxart), Green one was the 1980 Street Freak reissue (which is really the same Hurst Harry Olds with new decals). Green 442 was finished weeks ago but was in progress on/off for about 4 years waiting for paint, which was applied on one of the worst and windiest thanksgivings ever that tossed the body around. Luckily, most of the severe chips were covered up with decals and all worked out. Mods (that were started in 2017) were some lowering, and has spares bins wheelie bars, different seats and steering wheel. Wheels and rear tires are from a parts Polar Lights Tom McEwen Barracuda Funny Car (that had an unusable short shotted body), while front tires are spare slicks from one of the Revell '57 Fords. Paint is Tamiya TS-20 Metallic Green rattle can cleared with Pledge. Decals were unsurprisingly shot, so the spare bins came to the rescue with extra decals from other kits, White/Red/Blue 442 was started shortly after completion of the Green one. This one is almost OOB with the exception of Cragar mags and smaller drag slicks up front from the Revell '67 Charger (which caused the front to be unxepecently lowered, as the kits tires were the same size as the fronts and made the front too high). Paint is an experimental white/red/blue fade job consisting of Colorplace Gloss White, Fire, Red, and Dark Blue. Decals were heavily water damaged, so the spare bins came to the rescue yet again with leftover decals. Bon Appetite!
  2. After solving my login error screen issues, finally chimed in to (once again) say that it was a BLAH_BLAH_BLAH_BLAH shame these didn't place at all at the LIARS show. OTOH, they do look real nice in person and viewing them on PNGs.
  3. Nice work so far, look forward to seeing it finished! Never knew about the lack of center crease on the MPC T/As, TMYK. Do the Monogram kits have it? I don't remember seeing the creases on one of the the 91' Formulas I've built several years ago.
  4. As I said earlier, good work so far and I wish you luck on an extremely fiddly mess that I had once tackled (last issued in a AMT/Johnny Lightning box sold at KB Toys) but couldn't overcome and still won't go near another with a 9000 ft pole today. As I mentioned at the mtg, if you want i'd try ether using an old rag w/ toothpaste or a TINY amount of paint thinner to thin out the drip and possibly respray depending on if it shows through or not, or strip it in purple power (which takes no time with Testors enamel sprays). I also wish you good luck with the Revell Ed Roth 57 Chevy you had recently purchased, especially with those treacherous doors. I once attempted a 70/80s issue Revell 57 Nomad long ago and that was such a horrid mess with severely warped parts and overall sloppy fit, that I ended up scrapping the remains and gutted out the engine and suspensions parts onto other projects.
  5. In between work and life, I haven't managed to get very much done within the past few years. One most recently finished in the midist of all is this Revell Monogram kit (which seems to be a re boxed Revell Germany offering going by the multi color piece and the 1992 Revell AG copyright). This one was purchased in a club mtg auction for a tenner sealed in September and looked like a nice kit with hardly any flash and the quad turbo V12 pulled me in! However, it has serious, and I MEAN serious warping issues and with the blu body parts being so brittle that any slight hard twist back into the right shape always cracked. This one required a lot of trimming of the chassis/interior parts in addition to careful bending and filling of warped body sections, which took about a month to do all that before it was ready for paint. Almost OOB build with the exception of swapping out the 1930's like multi-spokes for 5 spokes from a SVT Mustang Cobra. I found the Bugatti blue a bit boring and dated, so on went Tamiya Clear Red over Rustoluem aluminum cleared with Pledge. IDK if the motor is supposed to be off center if the 1:1 is like that, or could be due to atrocious warping or bad kit design.
  6. Noice goin!! Good luck at the LIARS Show with your tribute entry. Wish I could be there but soooooooooooooooo busy with things now its crazy and i have to go in to work tomorrow and study for a music test hardly any time to do much. However, I should be at this thurs mtg so see ya there.
  7. Nice work! Can't wait to see it in person later on tonight!
  8. Thanks. Yeah, haven't been able to get any outside photos due to the constant rain otherwise I would've.
  9. I know the one you're talking about as it's in the "Create FX" glitter line, which I avoid as some ppl who used it says it dries flat and textured and sanding won't cut it. This is the one I used, purchased from Hobby Lobby I'm aware that one has larger flakes and compared to the larger Rustoluem Color Shift cans I used to get at Lowes. I thought it was mislabeled as it looks like a metal flake British Racing Green, but then I found out that the colorshifting only shows up in certain points of light but is much harder to see than the Rustoluem version. Ether way, i'm stil happy with the color even if it's mostly dark met green (don't have many builds in that color).
  10. Depends on how badly the clear pieces were "melted" together to the mounting joints. If they aren't too welded in and can somewhat move or bend around, i'd try the mineral spirits method as the Ziploc freezing bag trick sometimes works and sometimes doesn't (usually good for getting parts with weak joints and chromed pieces, or if the builder used the blue non toxic stuff). Worst case scenario is that you'd have to get new glass, but the good news is that these kits are common and you could easily snag a started or incomplete kit next to nothing for it.
  11. Revell kit mostly OOB, but had some simplified bits (which are actually carry overs from the snap-tite Shinoda Boss kit) swapped out with guts from the '99 Cobra. Front suspension was missing springs and shocks, so that and IRS came from the 99. However, while the interiors are the same sans small differences in door panels and seats, the SS's chassis had to be swapped with the Cobra's as the former had indents that were meant for the solid rear axle setup and wouldn't work with the IRS. My kit despite being sealed, had a horribly deformed (short shot?) steering wheel, so I found a replacement parts one from what appears to be a Monogram '70 Mustang Boss. The one off 5.4 DOHC engine (just DOHC heads on a SOHC truck 2 valve motor, which is different than the 4.6) while somewhat simplified and based on the 5.0 in the Shinoda Boss, was used as is considering you won't see much of it with the supercharger and all. However, the '99 Cobra's exhaust had to have the tips trimmed so it would not interfere with the body-to-frame fit frame and also had the tranny cross-member at a different place and shape and wouldn't work with the 5.4. So out went that and in came the brace from the Super Stallion chassis that was cut and placed to aprox it's original location. Paint is Testors Color Shift Emerald Turquoise cleared with Pledge. Color looks like a metal flake British Racing Green in the pics, though in certain lighting you can see somewhat of a shift to Blue.
  12. Build info Finished 8/11! Thread exclusive group pics with prior F-body builds
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