Black is easy peasy to prime without bleedthrough unlike reds. I do have my eyes on the Datsun pickup. Since all that issue has is 4x4 monster truck suspension stuff, a street custom can be still made from it.
Even though this rendition dosen't reflect a "real' 70 R/T going by the 69 rear (for now until an SE 2 in 1 comes out sooner or later), at least all the non R/T/SS guys can get creative and make their plain jane 318 cars with the F&F kit instead of moanin about things. Gotta agree with Alex, the griping and personal attacks are the reasons why I'm not on here often. People cannot be thankful for anything and gripe if the smallest thing is wrong or not right (though the 90 Mustang LX roof is still kinda funky while the monograms made in the 80s/90s got it closer). I dealt with the madness on CLG (Closing Logos Group) Wiki with the trolls and users who think rare logo findings are fake and demote everyone, but now i see these people are all over the internet.
With my Firebird paint problem I posted a while back, I tried every single trick in the book and the red was showing through the white. When I tried the duplicolor that got rid of it but crazed like a siv requiring a strip job. I tired the Walmart gray primer followed by the white on a red molded hood like Snake did and it still showed through (tell me, how did you not get the pink cast showing through?). The only thing that worked for me without crazing was Rustoluem Automotive primer SEALER. That covered the red without bleed through and allowed me to put the Wal-Mart gloss white on without a hitch as seen here (sorry for the kinda grainy pic, but you see the point).
So in a way, how opaque your primer is does matter but some can be way too hot on plastic as i've learned (the wal-mart gray also crazed the red hood i tested). I usually use the Sears/K-Mart primer as that gives good results but seems to be prone to bleed through no matter what. But now i know what to do on red/yellow molded stuff in the future so its all a matter of trial and error.
I know theres resin stuff, but alot of them cost just as much (some ebay examples are up to $30!) as the Tamiya kit. I was hoping someone had a motor from ether the AMT or Tamiya kits and i could give them something they were looking for in turn. Otherwise, ill just pony out for the Tamiya kit and stuff a LS7 in it as wouldnt be a total waste.
Hi all! I need a complete Toyota Supra 2JZ engine from ether the AMT F&F kits or the Tamiya one to stuff into a 99 Trans Am. I can trade a complete (unpainted, unassembled) motor from the 83 Hurst Cutlass, or if there's some other part you need I may have it (alot of parts in my stash are painted/assembled but most are complete and I may come up with untouched ones upon request). I believe I also have an AMT Superbee/GTX DOHC HEMI motor (painted/asmbld; no trans) if someone has a need for it. Again, lemme know what you have/want and we can work something out.
The MPC/AMT C4s are decent builders (the ZR1s have nicely detailed but chromed DOHC LT5s), but for the master detailers out there they have slightly simplified suspensions and some versions have issues with body proportions and molded mirrors. The Monograms are very nice, but the hood fitment on all variations is extremely finicky (Calloway Speedster comes to mind) And if your kit happens to have a badly warped hood, then good luck getting it to at least seat right
Tom, that's what I did at ACM. They seem to be more fickle with coupons than Michales, but from time to time they carry a random Revell/AMT kit you normally don't see at big boxes (Porsche 914-6, Datsun 240z BRE, 70 Sox and Martian Cudaetc). On a positive note, I just got back with the New 83 Hurst Olds from Michaels for $18 (with a retailmenot phone coupon they graciously took!)
I tried it one time with a ACM coupon from my email on the phone and the cashier said the coupons were fake as they lacked a barcode... yet there was one RIGHT THERE IN PLAIN FLIPPIN SIGHT!!! While most places accept coupons phone coupons digital form (even from 3rd party apps like RetailMeNot), ether the local ACM doesn't from their own, or the girl that day wanted to clock out instead of staying after her shift. To the point, I usually bring circular coupons whenever I go there as it seems its easier for them to take those, along with the fact there are some who think that anything digital is fake and get nasty if you tell them that this store accepts them, but they don't know how/or don't want to.
Are the General (Custer) Lees on clearance yet? Since R2 discontinued then, they are still 21.99 at the last store I checked. Gasman, is that all the new stock they just got in? What others did you see? Kinda related to craft stores, I did see the new Revell '67 Nickey Camaro at an AC Moore yesterday but lacked the magical circular coupon, so hopefully they still have it before itsa gone!
Thanks guys! Like I said, I looked up every single search about bleedthrough and just tried about everything in the book. For the newer plastics bit, yeah I noticed that when I used to use Krylon Fusion during my early days. It took a while to find a good cheap primer to handle that plastic type, but then I found the K-mart primer I use doesn't craze it, so that became my standard primer as its equal to Tamiya Fine Primer and more efficient at cost. Its not just this generation of kits with this phenomenon, as there's a lot of older kits (80s Revell Ciji and some retail sold MPC kits like the KITT) with plastic so "thin" in some spots, you could put finger underneath and it would show through! My Firebird's plastic is kinda thin being a SnapTite meant for retail (there was a story about how model manufactures used better plastic for the kits sold at hobby shops but lesser grade for the big boxes) , so that may be why the Duplicolor crazed it. I will be trying Rustoluem automotive primer/sealer as its enamel/lacquer (same type as the K-mart stuff I use), so crazing may not be as much of an issue unlike the Duplicolor.
Normally I mix and match various paint brands and get very good results. I would first prime with the cheap Quick and Easy primer, then to cover the gray for good measure I lay down Wal-mart Colorplace flat white for bright glossy colors or flat black for glossy blacks or metallics. For the bright colors, the final coats over the flat white will ether be Colorplace gloss white, red, blue, or sometimes the Tamiya/Rustoluem/Valspar/Krylon gloss variety for different colors like yellows, etc. On top of the flat black coat, its gloss black or a Rustoluem silver base coat to put Tamiya or Krylon X metals over. No reactions or ill effects at all with this method. But in this instance I kept paint brands the same for safety measures because I was told "you can't go wrong sticking with the same brands". Well, everything's going wrong here! I tried the silver trick again, this time with Duplicolors on a spare red piece and the same thing happened! I will try the Tamiya trick too but I doubt that would work ether, since the same thing happened with my standard paint methods.
I do everything with light coats at first then go heavier. But in this case, because the crazing was starting after the initial light spray, I knew more coats wouldn't cover it (no pun intended). After letting it dry for 2 days, I sanded the 1st Duplicolor coat then applied another coat and the crazing still happened! I figured the crazing would go away once tie color is on, so I let it dry fully, then sanded AGAIN and tried Duplicolor Gloss white (with light coats), gave me extreme wrinkling (or what looked like major orange peel) but hardly any red bleed. Thankfully, the DP stripped off because I got to it quickly before the coats fully cured and etched into the body. So attempt 2: Being I have a can of Tamiya Fine Primer I got when it was cheaper a few years ago, I also tried the Tamiya Primer suggestion the 2nd poster brought up. The 1st coat bleed like the standard Q&E primer I was using, so I knew that wouldn't go well ether. I will also try Rustoluem Automotive primer/sealer, as that's enamel/lacquer like the K-mart stuff so I shouldn't get heavy crazing like the Duplicolor. I'm a little scared about putting Duplicoat primer over Testors Lacquers Primer. The latter I believe are actually Enamel-lacquers, and being Duplicolor is full Lacquer, I would smell a bad reaction happening. But if it works for you and it is proven, I may give it a shot (hopefully is isn't more money wasted... like I have a wad of cash burning in my pocket right now!). Could it be this dammed plastic they were using back then has some crazy dye in it? Lucky for you, Yellow isn't as chaotic as red molded bodies and most metallic colors cover up its bleedthrough, so those are easier for you. As I said before, this is not extremely critical as its a test for future projects, and being I have another white molded body for my White 2JZ project the red molded body will be used to rebuild my red 2JZ powered Firebird from 2009.