Greg Myers Posted June 6, 2018 Share Posted June 6, 2018 Thinking I ought to build this. Wondering about the metal finish? Josh Flammer's "Can O' Worms" first seen in Overkill magazine Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ace-Garageguy Posted June 6, 2018 Share Posted June 6, 2018 29 minutes ago, Greg Myers said: ...Wondering about the metal finish? Several people on the board have done quite convincing bare-metal effects, including Bernard Kron and me. It's not too terribly hard. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cobraman Posted June 6, 2018 Share Posted June 6, 2018 Maybe you could use a die cast body and just strip the paint ???/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spex84 Posted June 6, 2018 Share Posted June 6, 2018 Love that car! Here's my bare metal '30. It's Mr. Metal Color "stainless" daubed over grey Plasticote primer and then buffed with a cloth, and Mr. Metal Color "Aluminum" dry-buffed onto the edges of protruding details to highlight them. A hint of copper rub n' buff was buffed onto a couple patches on the lower body to hint at returning corrosion. "Can O' Worms" has a more aggressively stitched-together appearance, but I think you could achieve that look with a slightly textured base coat and metalizer paints like Testors Metalizer or Mr. Metal Color buffed onto it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ace-Garageguy Posted June 6, 2018 Share Posted June 6, 2018 2 hours ago, Spex84 said: ...Here's my bare metal '30. It's Mr. Metal Color "stainless" daubed over grey Plasticote primer and then buffed with a cloth, and Mr. Metal Color "Aluminum" dry-buffed onto the edges of protruding details to highlight them. A hint of copper rub n' buff was buffed onto a couple patches on the lower body to hint at returning corrosion. "Can O' Worms" has a more aggressively stitched-together appearance, but I think you could achieve that look with a slightly textured base coat and metalizer paints like Testors Metalizer or Mr. Metal Color buffed onto it. Yes, that's one of the ones I was remembering. Very realistic...and sorry I forgot whose it was. I've done some experimenting with techniques similar to Chris' suggestions for the "stitched-together" appearance, and they're definitely on track. The only complete body I've done is a newly-minted version of MT's Challenger I, mimicking a fresh-from-the-body-builder finish on aluminum. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
misterNNL Posted June 6, 2018 Share Posted June 6, 2018 3 hours ago, Spex84 said: Love that car! Here's my bare metal '30. It's Mr. Metal Color "stainless" daubed over grey Plasticote primer and then buffed with a cloth, and Mr. Metal Color "Aluminum" dry-buffed onto the edges of protruding details to highlight them. A hint of copper rub n' buff was buffed onto a couple patches on the lower body to hint at returning corrosion. "Can O' Worms" has a more aggressively stitched-together appearance, but I think you could achieve that look with a slightly textured base coat and metalizer paints like Testors Metalizer or Mr. Metal Color buffed onto it. If possible please post photos of this coupe taken from a street level rather than from atop a 20 foot pole so we can see the finish as we would view it normally. Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spex84 Posted June 7, 2018 Share Posted June 7, 2018 Here's one taken from a squatting position Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unclescott58 Posted June 7, 2018 Share Posted June 7, 2018 10 hours ago, Spex84 said: Here's one taken from a squatting position Very nice. Simply beautiful. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Draggon Posted June 9, 2018 Share Posted June 9, 2018 As soon as I saw the leading pic I thought about Chris' 30. Everything about it is just right. Actually, I like it a whole lot more than the Can 'O Worms. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CabDriver Posted June 10, 2018 Share Posted June 10, 2018 On 6/7/2018 at 3:49 AM, Spex84 said: Here's one taken from a squatting position This is a beautiful build Chris! So, to apply the Mr Metal you simple rub it on and it dries? Simple as that? How long does it take to dry? Is there any benefit to airbrushing it? I've never tried this stuff before, but your results are really convincing! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greg Myers Posted June 10, 2018 Author Share Posted June 10, 2018 On 6/6/2018 at 4:47 PM, misterNNL said: ssible please post photos of this coupe taken from a street level rather than from atop a 20 foot pole so we can see the finish as we would view it normally. Really ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spex84 Posted June 10, 2018 Share Posted June 10, 2018 (edited) So, to apply the Mr Metal you simple rub it on and it dries? James--I essentially dry-brushed the Mr Metal onto the body with a ratty old paintbrush in order to get an uneven splotchy finish. If I had airbrushed it, (or even painted on a heavy coat with a brush) the finish would have been too clean and consistent. The paint dries very quickly; I think it's a lacquer. If you wanted a perfect smooth metal effect, airbrushing would probably help, but I've never actually tried it. This is a very thin paint, but it covers well. It behaves much like Testors metalizers but the colors of the steel and aluminum paints are very slightly different from the Testors product. Edited June 10, 2018 by Spex84 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
misterNNL Posted June 10, 2018 Share Posted June 10, 2018 7 hours ago, Greg Myers said: Really ? Now that really shows off the true nature of the metallic finish. Thanks for posting the new photo. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChrisBcritter Posted June 11, 2018 Share Posted June 11, 2018 On 6/6/2018 at 12:28 PM, cobraman said: Maybe you could use a die cast body and just strip the paint ???/ If you want to try that, I have a '32 3-window diecast body I got in a parts bag - you're welcome to it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CabDriver Posted June 11, 2018 Share Posted June 11, 2018 8 hours ago, Spex84 said: James--I essentially dry-brushed the Mr Metal onto the body with a ratty old paintbrush in order to get an uneven splotchy finish. If I had airbrushed it, (or even painted on a heavy coat with a brush) the finish would have been too clean and consistent. The paint dries very quickly; I think it's a lacquer. If you wanted a perfect smooth metal effect, airbrushing would probably help, but I've never actually tried it. This is a very thin paint, but it covers well. It behaves much like Testors metalizers but the colors of the steel and aluminum paints are very slightly different from the Testors product. That's really helpful - thanks buddy! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spex84 Posted June 11, 2018 Share Posted June 11, 2018 No problemo! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CabDriver Posted June 16, 2018 Share Posted June 16, 2018 On 6/11/2018 at 5:44 AM, Spex84 said: No problemo! One more question - I actually ordered some of these paints after seeing your build. How durable is the finish? I want to use one of them on an engine block, but I'm not sure how it'll stand up to being handled as I assemble it, wire it, etc... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spex84 Posted June 17, 2018 Share Posted June 17, 2018 39 minutes ago, CabDriver said: How durable is the finish? I would suggest wearing latex/nitrile gloves--it's not going to wear off like Alclad does, but the oils from your fingers handling it will dull it somewhat and I noticed when handling painted parts that a small amount was transferred to my fingers, which could have been a problem if I then touched other parts. As with other metalizers, it doesn't look quite the same if clear-coated (ie with Future). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CabDriver Posted June 17, 2018 Share Posted June 17, 2018 34 minutes ago, Spex84 said: I would suggest wearing latex/nitrile gloves--it's not going to wear off like Alclad does, but the oils from your fingers handling it will dull it somewhat and I noticed when handling painted parts that a small amount was transferred to my fingers, which could have been a problem if I then touched other parts. As with other metalizers, it doesn't look quite the same if clear-coated (ie with Future). Sounds sensible - thanks so much for the tips, buddy! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gman Posted June 17, 2018 Share Posted June 17, 2018 That would be a really nice project- I say "do it" and I'd be happy to follow the build. Revell 32 5 window + Rat Roaster kit gets you a good part of the way there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greg Myers Posted June 17, 2018 Author Share Posted June 17, 2018 Some of my most enjoyable builds have been replica builds. That Picture is certainly inspiring Greg Petters. ( " Is that Greg with two G's ?". Yeah, one in the front and one in the back. ) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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