Yahshu Posted August 8, 2019 Share Posted August 8, 2019 As I've taken it upon myself to try to do a correct dash for the K100 Aerodyne, I'm stuck on the airvents, build one & cast from there seems to be the logical way to go but how to build a master so small, any & all ideas are greatly appreciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StevenGuthmiller Posted August 8, 2019 Share Posted August 8, 2019 You could try looking for a grill from another kit that has evenly spaced "slats" about the right size as pictured. From there just make a "frame" to place it in and the button in the middle. Once you have a master you can cast as many as you need. Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yahshu Posted August 9, 2019 Author Share Posted August 9, 2019 12 hours ago, StevenGuthmiller said: You could try looking for a grill from another kit that has evenly spaced "slats" about the right size as pictured. From there just make a "frame" to place it in and the button in the middle. Once you have a master you can cast as many as you need. Steve I have one small problem with finding one from another kit, lack of other kits but thank you, excellent idea. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flat32 Posted August 9, 2019 Share Posted August 9, 2019 Good example of a part that is easy to computer model and 3D print. However you lose the satisfaction of scratch building a challenging part. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snake45 Posted August 9, 2019 Share Posted August 9, 2019 They almost look like taillights--or maybe even the turn signals or square headlights--from something, but I can't come up with an exact match off the top of my head. Someone else might see it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
70mach1 Posted August 9, 2019 Share Posted August 9, 2019 Check out the interior details at "Model Car Garage" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Force Posted August 9, 2019 Share Posted August 9, 2019 6 hours ago, Flat32 said: Good example of a part that is easy to computer model and 3D print. However you lose the satisfaction of scratch building a challenging part. In that case it would be easier to 3D print the whole dash panel...it's for sure easy for those who have knowledge of CAD or some similar 3D program and the print can be done at Shapeways. I don't know of anything that looks like that in another model unfortunately. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stitchdup Posted August 9, 2019 Share Posted August 9, 2019 They look very similar to whats in 70s british cars. If your lucky one of them might provide you a template Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SfanGoch Posted August 9, 2019 Share Posted August 9, 2019 Find one first. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GLMFAA1 Posted August 9, 2019 Share Posted August 9, 2019 6 hours ago, Snake45 said: They almost look like taillights--or maybe even the turn signals or square headlights--from something, but I can't come up with an exact match off the top of my head. Someone else might see it. There might be a start on the universal red plastic sprue that AMT uses in the truck kits. What are the dimensions of the real vents? greg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigTallDad Posted August 9, 2019 Share Posted August 9, 2019 Use the same approach that produces emblems...burnish some aluminum foil on a vent, back-fill with epoxy, sand/trim to fit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Muncie Posted August 9, 2019 Share Posted August 9, 2019 This is kind of taking Steve's idea above and mixing with the ignition box Greg Pugh built on the dashboard of his Monte Carlo - cut a finned section from a valve cover and add a frame. Some valve covers don't look much like a real valve cover, but have good finned material. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StevenGuthmiller Posted August 9, 2019 Share Posted August 9, 2019 3 hours ago, Muncie said: This is kind of taking Steve's idea above and mixing with the ignition box Greg Pugh built on the dashboard of his Monte Carlo - cut a finned section from a valve cover and add a frame. Some valve covers don't look much like a real valve cover, but have good finned material. There you go. A valve cover would also work. It appears though guys that Phil doesn't have a parts box to pilfer, so can anyone think of a finely finned plastic material that can say, be found in the household? Let's put on our thinking caps. Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stitchdup Posted August 9, 2019 Share Posted August 9, 2019 you might find something on a hot wheels that might do for taking a mold. Failing that some of the bits inside older type electronics might provide something, I'm thinking cassette or record players when they were still kinda chunky things and not 90s onwards. Would lego provide something also? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SfanGoch Posted August 10, 2019 Share Posted August 10, 2019 I could scratchbuild a master pattern(s) of the vent. I have extra extremely small brass exhaust vent louvers from a 1/35 scale M1 Abrams tank PE set which could be used. Phil, if you could provide me with the exact full scale dimensions of the vent, I can get started immediately. I'll make four so you could bulk cast them for future needs. Let me know if you're interested. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yahshu Posted August 10, 2019 Author Share Posted August 10, 2019 (edited) So many excellent ideas. Thank you all very much. Unfortunately measurements are not available at present. 3D printing would certainly be easier if I had the patience & know how. Brass is the way I have thought of, photo etch top on a block would also work but alias, no photo etch making skills. I have a friend who is able to cad design the instrument panels which I was going to glue to aluminium plate & cut & drill, add wood grain decal & Scale Production "O's" for instrument bezels. Need to get the instruments reduced to scale also. I have sent a email to Jan @ CTM this evening to see if he may now be interested in doing the instrument panels now that someone is doing a dash, we'll what happens, he may be able to do photo etch airvent faces. This is where I'm up to at present. & this is my entire model collection these days so there's not much to savage parts from. Edited August 10, 2019 by Yahshu Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NOBLNG Posted August 10, 2019 Share Posted August 10, 2019 (edited) 16 hours ago, StevenGuthmiller said: Let's put on our thinking caps. Steve How about making a cast of a large metal file to get the basic louver pattern? This is just silly putty to get an idea of what the impression would look like. Edited August 10, 2019 by NOBLNG Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yahshu Posted August 10, 2019 Author Share Posted August 10, 2019 (edited) 1 hour ago, NOBLNG said: How about making a cast of a large metal file to get the basic louver pattern? This is just silly putty to get an idea of what the impression would look like. & we have a winner, awesome, so simple yet so effective, just sand 5 ribs at each end a little to knock the height off then put maybe a piece of brass on each end to cap it off. Thank you NOBLING. OK, next question please, can I pour Zap Z-poxy PT-41 casting resin directly onto silly putty & take a mold off the pattern? Edited August 10, 2019 by Yahshu Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snake45 Posted August 10, 2019 Share Posted August 10, 2019 5 hours ago, NOBLNG said: How about making a cast of a large metal file to get the basic louver pattern? This is just silly putty to get an idea of what the impression would look like. Fabulous! I'm gonna totally steal this trick to make some custom taillights. Only thing I'd add is, use a NEW file to make sure you haven't got any nicks. 4 hours ago, Yahshu said: OK, next question please, can I pour Zap Z-poxy PT-41 casting resin directly onto silly putty & take a mold off the pattern? Silly Putty will "melt" out at room temperature. Maybe put it in the fridge for a bit, or even let the casting cure right in the fridge. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yahshu Posted August 11, 2019 Author Share Posted August 11, 2019 (edited) 4 hours ago, Snake45 said: Silly Putty will "melt" out at room temperature. Maybe put it in the fridge for a bit, or even let the casting cure right in the fridge. Thank you for that info, the resin heats up also as it cures so the fridge it is. Good thing I live on my own & don't have to explain model bits in the fridge Edited August 11, 2019 by Yahshu Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigTallDad Posted August 11, 2019 Share Posted August 11, 2019 A fine-tooth comb might also work, either as a silly-putty mold or burnishing/back-filling aluminum foil. BTW, there is a difference between Silly Putty and Play Doh...Silly Putty does not leave a residue, Play Doh does. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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