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Best glue I should use.?


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I hate to sound like a smartazz, but it all depends on what you're gluing. I have different solutions for different problems. 

None of these solutions involves Testor or any other kind of "tube glue." :lol:

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38 minutes ago, Snake45 said:

I hate to sound like a smartazz, but it all depends on what you're gluing. I have different solutions for different problems. 

None of these solutions involves Testor or any other kind of "tube glue." :lol:

Lol yeah I hear ya. I currently use tamiya. The orange and the thin cements. Work great, just wondering what you guys say. 

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I use liquid glue to permanently join two pieces of plastic, like engine halves or pieces of styrene for kitbashing.  I'm using the Testors liquid glue in a bottle, but I chucked the brush and just use paintbrushes.  For parts that I want joined quickly, I'm using Gorilla Glue CA adhesive.  Seems to be just thick enough to stay put where I want it and thin enough that it doesn't really act as a filler.  

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I use Mr. Cement S for seams like engine halves, etc. as others have said. Works great as it has a wicking action that will run into the seam and weld the pieces together. For other stuff I like the Testors super glue in the small bottle with a brush applicator, it's quick setting and holds great. I get both these at Hobby Lobby. 

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On 8/3/2021 at 8:07 PM, slusher said:

I still use Testors orange tube glue and Loctite supe glue fore hard to stick parts..

Yes! A member here turned me on to loctite superglue Ultragel control and its a game changer. Build probably 90% of the time with it 

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this glue is hard to find now, and gets expensive. the model master glue is my very favorite. the testors version is not the same container, and not as good. the new revell glue also is not as good. i thought it would be the same, but it isnt. it doesnt stick as well. i prefer this one over the tamiya glue because it will not remove paint if as long as you dont rub it. it will stick to painted pieces quite well, but will stick to plastic to plastic better. i also found that i make more mistakes with tamiya glue. its very thin so sometimes it goes through a gap that i dont notice and ruin pieces. 

 

testors-plastic-glue-open1.jpg

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Glue that I use in different situations. 

White Elmers glue- to temporarily hold parts together for trial fitting and modifications. Also works well on clear parts, like windows and headlights. 
 

Watch crystal cement- chrome and clear parts. 

Liquid cement- to bond (weld) parts together that will not be separated. Like engine block halves, and whole engines if I plan on painting as a unit, one color. This can be had in thin or thicker consistency depending on your application. 
 

Super glue or CA glue-For quick bonds of parts that have a tab that will be glued to a hole. CA glue can greatly speed up a building process with its fast drying time. Also can be had in different thicknesses as well. 
 

Epoxy 5 min- This two part resin is mixed in equal parts and will allow you to be able to position the part, to get it right where you want it, before it cures. 
 

The epoxy and CA glue also allows you to bond parts without the scraping and removing of paint or chrome. 
 

CA glue normally doesn’t play well with clear or chrome parts as it will cause hazing and fogging. Unless of course if you use a Bob Smith Industries glue that will allow you to use it on clear and chrome parts. 
 

CA glue and Epoxy for resin parts, as the others simply won’t bond to resin. 

Edited by Brutalform
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