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Rustoleum 2X Gloss Clear polishes out real nice


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35 minutes ago, jchrisf said:

I saw Matthew's nice paint on his engine and asked him what he used and he said Rustoleum metallics.  It looks good

 

That's a pretty sharp looking Supercharged 429.  I like the colors that were used.  I found it online and bookmarked it.  

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1 hour ago, Classicgas said:

You can have rustoleum. It sucks. Their clear over their paint, fully cured, everything done by the book. pure garbage.

 

 

Lee, that pic of mine is their 2X Clear over their 2X Primer and 2X Black Matte paint.  And I painted the black about 40 minutes after I primed it.  It is the toughest paint I've used as well.. it doesn't scratch as easy as the lacquers I've used and seems to stick to the plastic and itself better.

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Sorry you had issues with the Rust-Oleum Lee.  I use the gray 2X primer for all my paint jobs no matter what paint.  I think my 66 Nova was primed with Rust-Olem 2X and the top coat and clear was Rust-Olem. 2X.  Didn't have any issues.  I found out early on that the 2X sprays out really heavy and you have to be careful.

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46 minutes ago, Zippi said:

Sorry you had issues with the Rust-Oleum Lee.  I use the gray 2X primer for all my paint jobs no matter what paint.  I think my 66 Nova was primed with Rust-Olem 2X and the top coat and clear was Rust-Olem. 2X.  Didn't have any issues.  I found out early on that the 2X sprays out really heavy and you have to be careful.

Yeah, I use very fast motion across the car or part.  Sure doesn't take long to paint.. and I love that part too.

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On 9/20/2021 at 6:22 PM, jchrisf said:

Dave, the decals ought to go down nice though.

Oh yeah, these 30 year old decals are going down much better.  Hopefully I won't have to clear over them but I am temped to anyway just to see how well this clear handles decals.

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While I haven't used the clear yet I do prefer to decant 2x and spray it with my Paasche H. Comes out awesome for me, 2 tones or whatever. While I've shot it from the can the coats are thick for my taste. One coat will basically do it as long as you got everything. 2x through the airbrush shoots pretty much the same as Testors Model Master through the airbrush ( I do add a touch more thinner than what is in the can).

I don't know the makeup of 2x clear. Yet. Or what can and can't be done with it. In another thread, might have been another sight even, a guy used it supposedly over enamel and it all wrinkled as if the 2x clear was lacquer.

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2 hours ago, Dave G. said:

I don't know the makeup of 2x clear. Yet. Or what can and can't be done with it. In another thread, might have been another sight even, a guy used it supposedly over enamel and it all wrinkled as if the 2x clear was lacquer.

The paint interactions are a lot more complex than just the old "can't use lacquer over enamel" mantra.  The type of a solvent (or how "hot" its) can also greatly affect compatibility of paint.  Even what chemical is used as a sloven can be the difference in compatibility.  But modelers are still stuck with the simplified thinking.  

You could  have enamel top coat which contains a solvent that is "hot" and chemically incompatible with a lacquer base coat.  The solvent from t he enamel top coat might get absorbed by the lacquer and expand it (like a dry sponge expands when it absorbs water), causing it bubble or wrinkle.

Whenever playing around with different brand and types of paint, it always makes sense to test compatibility on some object (like plastic spoon) rather than on your precious model.  And toss out that narrow "no lacquer over enamel" mentality.

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7 hours ago, peteski said:

The paint interactions are a lot more complex than just the old "can't use lacquer over enamel" mantra.  The type of a solvent (or how "hot" its) can also greatly affect compatibility of paint.  Even what chemical is used as a sloven can be the difference in compatibility.  But modelers are still stuck with the simplified thinking.  

You could  have enamel top coat which contains a solvent that is "hot" and chemically incompatible with a lacquer base coat.  The solvent from t he enamel top coat might get absorbed by the lacquer and expand it (like a dry sponge expands when it absorbs water), causing it bubble or wrinkle.

Whenever playing around with different brand and types of paint, it always makes sense to test compatibility on some object (like plastic spoon) rather than on your precious model.  And toss out that narrow "no lacquer over enamel" mentality.

Pete I do more testing than I do spraying models lol ! That's why I said I don't know the make up "yet". If I want to try 2x clear I will figure it out and compatibility. But with 2x colors and considering most of my builds are antique or classic era cars with solid colors and pastels etc., the 2x line of colors has found it's way into my work flow and like Model Master rarely need clear coat in that category I most often build in. Knowing me. I'll do several experiments over various base coats sprayed on my stashes of empty prescription bottles. Clears for me most often are used over flat acrylic paints and craft paints as the base color coats, I have several clear coats that already work well, so I'm not really looking for a magic bullet clear anyway.

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The next model I do I'm going to spray the primer and immediately when the dry time is completed per the can instructions I'm going to spray the color coat and immediately when that dry time is completed (usually around 20 - 40 minutes) I'm going to spray the clear.  This stuff goes on so smooth there is no need to sand until after the clear is dry.

I find the matte paints go down really thin and smooth.  I try not to use gloss colors because they go on thicker and have orange peel.

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1 hour ago, stevez said:

which is best over a tamiya spray can color, rustoleum acrylic lacquer clear or rustoleum 2x clear?

I would think they would both be safe to use but I've never tried it over Tamiya.  I do have some Tamiya here that I plan on using in a future build so I'll know soon enough.  But after using the 2X I have no desire to use the lacquer because of the smell.  However, the humidity should be out of Florida now for about 8 months so I'll be able to spray clear outside now without it hazing up.

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17 hours ago, stevez said:

which is best over a tamiya spray can color, rustoleum acrylic lacquer clear or rustoleum 2x clear?

I've used both over Tamiya paint.  I have use the Rust-Oeum Clear Lacquer over acrylic paint on my last few builds.  Seems to flow a little better and level out nicely.  

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  • 3 weeks later...

I need to jump in here rather than starting a new topic. I have recently painted a body and wish to clear it after the decals are on. The body was primed then painted with Rustoleum Gloss protective enamel (not 2X). I wish to clear it but it is 2 tone blue and white. Unfortunately the blue was the key because the enamel was the only one that matched my prefered color. 

#1 Will 2x clear go over the paint already applied?

#2 Does the 2x yellow?

#3 What can I cover enamel with that will not yellow? Future shine? Tamyia?

Thanks in advance   

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I know this thread is about 2X clear but how about Duplicolor 1X clear..Is it good or is it just a variant of their Clear Acrylic Enamel spray..Some one said its good but takes a while to dry..Any comments welcome and if I hijacked the thread sorry..

 

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18 hours ago, Sledsel said:

I need to jump in here rather than starting a new topic. I have recently painted a body and wish to clear it after the decals are on. The body was primed then painted with Rustoleum Gloss protective enamel (not 2X). I wish to clear it but it is 2 tone blue and white. Unfortunately the blue was the key because the enamel was the only one that matched my prefered color. 

#1 Will 2x clear go over the paint already applied?

#2 Does the 2x yellow?

#3 What can I cover enamel with that will not yellow? Future shine? Tamyia?

Thanks in advance   

As to question 3, Future/Pledge and Tamiya acrylic have not yellowed for me as yet and I've been testing them for about 4 years. I also use Liquitex varnishes that have not yellowed and are UV stable besides. We've had my now deceased wife's ceramics out in the weather 24/7 for years and has not deteriorated or yellowed. I use that in my modeling as well. All these should go right over enamel as long as the enamel is well cured so you don't get opposing shrink rates as the paints snuggle in.

I think that Rustoleum protective enamel has a bit slower cure time than 2x. I haven't used it in years but that was the case years ago, maybe it's changed now though. And I would think the 2x clear would go over it but I can't answer if it yellows or not.

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On 9/21/2021 at 7:49 PM, jchrisf said:

I saw Matthew's nice paint on his engine and asked him what he used and he said Rustoleum metallics.  It looks good

 

I've used their metallic aluminum, it's great. Goes on smooth, cures in about 20-30 minutes and looks great.

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