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1940 Ford Coupe


Zippi

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4 hours ago, slusher said:

Looks good waxed, I wouldn’t clear it. I don’t blame you I would not cut the hood brother!

Thanks Carl.  Yup, looking to keep it more of a classic cruiser.  

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26 minutes ago, David G. said:

It's all coming together quite nicely Bob.

David G.

Thanks Dave.  Well....now comes the big question, foil or not to foil.  With all the issues I've had recently I'm a little leary about the foil anymore.

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18 minutes ago, Zippi said:

Thanks Dave.  Well....now comes the big question, foil or not to foil.  With all the issues I've had recently I'm a little leary about the foil anymore.

I've had trouble with my most recent order of BMF too Bob. My solution to the non-stick foil problem is to brush on some diluted PVA. I have a bottle of diluted Micro Kristal Klear that I mixed up for carpet flocking. It seems to be working so far. Any excess cleans up easily and doesn't damage the paint.

David G.

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22 hours ago, David G. said:

I've had trouble with my most recent order of BMF too Bob. My solution to the non-stick foil problem is to brush on some diluted PVA. I have a bottle of diluted Micro Kristal Klear that I mixed up for carpet flocking. It seems to be working so far. Any excess cleans up easily and doesn't damage the paint.

David G.

Thanks for the info Dave.

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7 hours ago, Andrew McD said:

One sweet looking hot rod!  I’m just stating the obvious and repeating what so many others have said when I say the paint color and finish look terrific!

I appreciate it Andrew.  Thanks.

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Well fellows.....disaster struck on the paint job.  I told myself a while back I wan't going to use bmf anymore and it bit me in the butt once again.  I could not get it to stick and I was digging into the paint.  I switched to masking off the trim with Tamiya masking tape and using a silver Sharpie.  It bleed underneath the tape and since I have no clear on the paint I have no clue what will take it off and not harm the paint. I tried denatured alcohol and lacquer thinner under the hood but it took the paint off.  Looks like this one is history for now fellows.    

Edited by Zippi
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Wow, that's a bummer. :( 

I don't know the extent of the error but in similar circumstances, I've been able to do a touch up by brush.

I'm assuming that you used spray cans. If so, you can decant some paint by spraying a small puddle on a paper plate and use a small brush to apply some paint to cover the bleed. It can take a keen eye and steady hand but it may be better than repainting the whole thing.

Best of luck with it.

David G.

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14 hours ago, bluestringer said:

Man, I hate that. I did the same thing on my 701/2 Camaro only I was using 3m tape. There's no way to get that stuff off that I know of. 

I appreciate it James.  I've got my thinkin cap on for this one.

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1 hour ago, David G. said:

Wow, that's a bummer. :( 

I don't know the extent of the error but in similar circumstances, I've been able to do a touch up by brush.

I'm assuming that you used spray cans. If so, you can decant some paint by spraying a small puddle on a paper plate and use a small brush to apply some paint to cover the bleed. It can take a keen eye and steady hand but it may be better than repainting the whole thing.

Best of luck with it.

David G.

Thanks Dave.  I airbrushed this and it was a clear orange over bronze so I can't just touch it up.  Not sure what I can do with this one. 

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Bob, have you tried rubbing out the chrome pen?  I would use 4000 grit, wet.  I find that another benefit of clear is that BMF (even today's BMF) sticks better to a cleared and polished body than not. I would rub it out as well as possible then give it another coat of paint. You might be able to do it only on those areas that have the BMF. For example,  if it is the side of the body just repaint the side with bronze and clear orange.  Rub it out again.  Then, try mixing Elmers glue and acrylic thinner or even water and apply it to the trim before you apply your foil and it should stick better.  I don't use chrome pen for any long length of trim because even if you can get it on straight, once you touch it, it dulls very quickly.  Its like Testors Chrome Silver, it never dries! I only use it on small stuff like door handles, steering wheels, etc. 

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44 minutes ago, ModelcarJR said:

Bob, have you tried rubbing out the chrome pen?  I would use 4000 grit, wet.  I find that another benefit of clear is that BMF (even today's BMF) sticks better to a cleared and polished body than not. I would rub it out as well as possible then give it another coat of paint. You might be able to do it only on those areas that have the BMF. For example,  if it is the side of the body just repaint the side with bronze and clear orange.  Rub it out again.  Then, try mixing Elmers glue and acrylic thinner or even water and apply it to the trim before you apply your foil and it should stick better.  I don't use chrome pen for any long length of trim because even if you can get it on straight, once you touch it, it dulls very quickly.  Its like Testors Chrome Silver, it never dries! I only use it on small stuff like door handles, steering wheels, etc. 

Thanks for the info John.  I have the hood in the drink.  I'll try and airbrush it again and shoot for the same finish.  Better said than done.

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13 minutes ago, mrm said:

This is exactly why I never skip on the clear coat. It’s a lot more than just making things shinier. I hope you can figure out something to repair it. 

Thanks Michael.  I really wasn't trying to skip the clear coat.  I was satisfied with the paint finish.  Wasn't looking for a shiny paint job. 

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Here ya go fellows.  I was totally dissatisfied with the way the foil was going on and messing up the paint plus it would not go around the radius.  When I mask it off with Tamiya masking tape and used a Sharpie it bleed through.  The hood is in 91% Isopropyl Alcohol.  I'm going to try and match the paint and this time there will be NO bmf on the car.

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20220629_125041.jpg

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