customline

A little movement on this one but it's not quite finished. I never know what to do here because I must be consistent with my "narrative" and the car I am imagining is a street driven custom with lots of rod run mileage since it's completion (a hot rod is never really finished). So the underside is consistent with that. The engine has been replaced with a nice flathead because the FE that some lame-brain stuffed into this car finally developed a wrist-pin knock and this flathead, which was waiting for a completely different project, was longing for home. I decided to light up the rear with tail lights from the '41 Plymouth as an homage to my old coupe. The exhaust system is kit stock and very poorly routed but who am I to argue with the experts? If you don't analyze it too much you won't care. You can't fault me for following the instructions ?. There are a number of small details left to be dealt with after body to frame attachment is made such as shortening the tail pipes ?. But this is it for a while; I have company coming soon and won't be able to work on this stuff. Till then, don't forget to tighten those paint caps. ?MO

Yup. There are at least 3 that I saw that look like the above. I think I'll take the x-19 path. It does tone down the "chrome" to look a little more real.

I just looked at Cragar 390 street pro...this might be it...the center thingie looks right (without the knock-off spinner)

I think they look a lot like Halibrand Sprints, which have a polished finish. I'm sure I've seen some like this that had a grayish spoke but with polished edges. I have the x-19 and you are right about less is more( I tell her that all the time ☺️)

I feel a need to detail the wheels that this kit provided. I can't identify them. Does anyone know the mfgr. of the 1:1 wheels represented by these kit wheels?

They are strictly on line now so a day trip wouldn't work for you anyway. I have Micheals and Hobbytown within reasonable driving distance. If I want Hobby Lobby, it's a either 90 minutes to Richmond or an hour to VA Beach with horrendous traffic and a tunnel that backs up 5 miles due to too many vehicles and not enough road. Hobbytown has some things I use but now that I'm quite lazy I just try to think ahead a bit and order from Hobbylinc. You can earn points and save a few bucks. I really like them (can you tell?)

I think they're in or near Hotlanta. Shouldn't take long via snail mail

Hobbylinc.com. they have it. I get almost everything from them.. Do it now. ?

Thank you, Mike. I've had those surgeries and I sympathize. Get the Revell kit.

Indeed! I knew getting old was going to be rough but i had no idea it would be this rough! ?

I've already jumped ahead to paint, but I think you could get that thing lower. ?. No, really, you have succeeded in providing a workable turning radius, so.....WHAT COLOR?

I'm feeling the fun now.......

My adult son bought an AMT Batmobile kit to build with his 10 yr. old. He texted me earlier today in a rage about that kit. "Worst model kit EVER !" You win some, you lose some. ?

Looks like that bargain-priced kit is turning out quite nicely.

Yeah, I kinda struggled with that but when the time comes to paint mine, I know I'll have to deal with some conflict about it. Many top shelf muscle cars have a limited pallet. It's what the geniuses at the factory wanted. A cost saving tactic? Probably. But on a Buick? Had to be about brand identity or some such thing. I'm sure somebody knows.

How about leave the y-block and the spinner wheel covers, add some rust in the rockers and rear quarters, and paint one fender primer gray. Trim out the chrome and just make it "road-worthy". A survivor, yes?

I have this one in queue too. I was going to go straight up OOB stock. Not too many color choices for a stock version, though.

2 cents: watch out your front wheels can be in-board far enough to look like they can be steered. If they are up against the wheel opening, well....I run into this a lot upon choosing wheel/tire combos. Just sayin' - not much room in those fender wells ?

Happy to help!

Can't wait to see what you're doing a year from now. You hit the ground running. Don't stop! If you haven't already, look at a thread titled "RUST" in the "Under Glass" section. There's a picture of a product some of us use to create a rusted finish. It's called Sophisticated Finishes. You would use the "rust" variety (there are others for different finishes). Since you are in this deep, you might try it. Of course , it may not be available in your neck of the woods. It's a pretty good short cut to convincing rust. It's really rust!

They stay put if you can get 'em there without launching them. Its a matter of just the right amount of pressure on the tweezers. In the near past I would use my spring closed type but that usually resulted in me trying to squeeze them open without moving the part. Not a good way to do anything "sensitive" . So now I use the squeeze closed type for those sensitive jobs but it's an iffy proposition too. Can't win at this without some luck. One trick I use whenever I can is leaving the brass wire long if I can access the back side. Why I didn't do that this time is beyond explanation ?. I had access. Hmmmm...... (scratches head). Looking at it now, I wish I had filled the trunk handle hole. That handle is atrocious. Oh well.

It's making my head hurt. I have two colors to find. I down-loaded the FS color chart. I can get a good idea of what I need from that. Good enough for government work. Thanks for your help, Les.

State sponsored lunacy is the sorry state of affairs today.

I found the Federal Standard color chart as a PDF. It mayhelp me.

OK, I went to that site, found the paint conversion drop-down but when I chose "Federal Standard" it came up "there are no paints to list in this category" ?