935k3

You could also use watch pins in the door with a receiving hole in the door jam(ala Bill Geary)

Macro please.

Has anybody bought anything from them lately? It looks like the domain is for sale. I wonder if he is on Ebay now.

I have the same putty and it works great. I got a cheap plastic container at Walmart that seals and the can fits in, hopefully that will help it last longer.

The strongest repair is to drill and pin the joint. The ailgnment can be tough though.

Really nice color combo on a well built model.

2017 DTM I really want a model of the Shell BMW

Porsche Turbo RSR Fujimi News

Thanks a everybody for the comments. The front and rear window was done by applying bare metal foil then I put some1/64" crepe drafting tape around the edge. The side windows were airbrushed wit TS-29 decanted. Then the foiling was done. I made the trim standout better by scribing before painting. The grill area was tough, especially the very thin horizontal strips that accent the grill.

Very nice. The weld seems on the headers are great. I have the version with the clear and red upper body.

Finally got his one done. I got sidetracked working some vintage stereo equipment(Sansui 8080 receiver and BIC Formula6 speakers) The WIP is here BMW 635 The trim detail was tedious. The chrome on the tail lights was done with Spaztix Chrome airbrushed.

This is great news, I wish him the best. I wouldn't be surprised if he does Lemans soon either.

I use this first for any metal parts then use regular primer over it.

I will second that. BIN gives you a very stable surface for all other paints. It also seals puttied areas better than regular primers. It is far better to airbrush it.

What day is it today?

I have to agree with you JC. I liked the "open" wheel look. I am not looking forward to F1 cars having "halos" around the cockpit next year ether.

Some tips on decals.Instead of using solvents I use a hot damp cloth pressed over the decal. It will set and conform instantly without wrinkles. Only press for a second or two, if held for a long time it will damage the decal clear coat. I use a hot damp Q-Tip for smaller areas like NACA ducts. I only use solvents down in panel lines and edges, like the edge of a wheel opening on a body. Also I mix half soapy water and decal set(blue bottle) half and half and put under the decal. This aids greatly to move large decals to the proper position.

I used thinned Tamiya Acrylics mistakes can fixed with a q tip and it does not attack any type of paint. The Detailer is pretty good too. They both clean up with Ammonia. I use a 10/0 size brush. Here is one I am working on now that was done this way.

I am finally getting back to this, I have been working on old stereo and speakers. The combo of chrome and black trim on windows was not easy. It came out pretty good though. The decals on top and one side are done ecpept a few I have to make that were not in the kit(DUNLOP and CASTROL). They go above the BOSCH decal.

You should cut the decals where they cross pane lines and use small brush to get decal solvent down in them. After clear coating they will be brittle and this is not possible.

Contact Tamiya America. Maybe ebay

straight ammonia will remove the Tamiya acrylics without harming tires or other paints(wheels) Flexing of tires when putting on wheels will crack most paints. It is better to paint after the wheel is installed. Make a msk with tape and a circle template.

The one question coming out of pre-season testing is was Ferrari sandbagging? I hope so.

great job on a great subject.

If all else fails I sometimes use a 10/0 paintbrush and paint over the edges with Tamiya acrylic flat or semigloss black depending on the sheen you want.