Muncie

never tried - got a start on one A-arm and it didn't go well - at that point, realized that making one should be easy but making the second to match was a bigger challenge... I think it would take some serious fixturing to pull it off. I don't think there was much change in the front suspension between the 1980 and 1984 in pro-stock. Would it be possible to get the suspension parts that you need from the 1984 Rehr-Morrison Camaro? just $.02 (or less)

yeah, the original part is also kinda sorta sometimes fits as well.

I've only seen the tonneau cover in black plastic which means it was a very early issue - sorry, don't know which one. Somebody reproduces it in resin.

did they let you keep the little tray and tools - picked up a plastic tray with a some hospital grade scissors, tweezers and a sugical clamp last summer... no need for details on how they were obtained...

Bernard, Most drill chucks are simply threaded onto the shaft of the drill. Disassemble the drill enoough to hold the shaft and with a little effort, the chuck will come off. Some drills even have a provision in the housing to insert a pin (or drill bit) to hold the shaft. The bonus here is that most chucks are a standard thread so it gives you a headstart toward adding a handle. oops posting at the same time again.. yep, forgot about the screw inside the chuck... removing the screw makes it easier to take the chuck off the drill...

a spare chuck from an old electric drill works perfectly - hardware stores used to sell replacement chucks but the last time I looked, they have become expensive. a handle could be added but the chuck by itself gives enough to hold on to. it also makes a great weight for holding things together when the glue dries.

more possibilities... It could be used to build a Chevrolet. The main body unit on GM staion wagons from the firewall back is basically the same for both Oldsmobile and Chevrolet. I've seen a Chevy wagon donate it's body for an Oldsmobile project.

hope I'm OK stepping into the middle of this... Have some guys in the area with salt in their blood - it's uncurable. Decades of Bonneville experience among them. They've been building an incredible streamliner - two KB's, 4WD - a work of mechanical art - water in the blocks that's circulated to a seperate tank for each engine. Make that polished stainless steel tanks. The reservoirs provide some cooling for the engines and a bit of ballast - Although Bonneville is like a long drag race, the weight helps more than it hurts. www.target550.com There is a lot of good construction information for many other salt flat cars in the build diaries at www.landracing.com

Casey, thank you for bringing back some good memories. About 4th grade - remember the folks took us four kids to the '62 World's Fair - can't magine herding four kids like my parents did... Typical drizzly Seattle day - rode the monorail, toured some pavilions, saw the space needle, and watched the logging show in the rain. Saw the AMT display with the Silhouette but wouldn't have recognized who was there. In 1962, it looked like we'd all be driving bubble tops by now. Mom and Dad would always buy us souvenirs when we went on trips and I brought home an AMT kit of the Space Needle. Brush painted it Testors orange per the instructions and gluebombed it in about an hour... maybe it was 30 minutes.

OK, first car - 1956 210 Handyman - Revell's 1956 Del Ray is where you want to start for the body. The Del Ray is simply a regualr 210 series two-door sedan with a "family duty" intereior if I remember the GM brochures correctly and Del Ray is a really cool name. The sedans and the regular wagons share the same windshield and doors - identical! As noted in the earlier posts, the Nomads/hardtops/convertibles have a two inch shorter windshield as well as the hardtop window openings. Model Haus gets it right (again) - the roof height on their 55-57 wagons and sedan deliveries is correct. I've seen another 1956 2-door wagon resin body that was mastered off the Nomad and that roof is little low - but nice if you're looking for a chopped top. In all cases, the two door door is longer than the front door on a four door. On the wagons, the rear curved quarter glass on a four door wagon is longer then the rear curved quarter glass on a two door - note the position of the glass divider/end of the rear door. The roof on the regluar wagon is longer than a Nomad, and the tailgate is a different shape - not just the trim. As mentioned above, a lot of work to do a conversion. A Nomad kit is also required... The wagon and Nomad chassis are the same - The sedan/hardtops have a differernt fuel tank shape and location than the wagons. Wagons and Nomads use the same rear bumpers with the license plate on the bumper. hope this helps

Some of the MPC Chevettes had a set of IMSA flares...

Dale, like that cutaway drawing - lots of construction details there sorry, I'm still tech challenged so no pics The master cylinder will be under the floorboard with an access plate just ahead of the driver seat. Pedals are mounted at the floor level instead of under the dash like a passenger car. Pedals and master cylinder are like the mid-80's Monogram Pro Stock kits except the kits don't have much detaili this area... Should be some good reference on the chassis builder's web sites with an internet search.

That looks like this will be another cool build. Check out Replicas and Miniatures of Maryland. The wheel set P-129 may be what you are looking. It's those halibarand wheels without knockoffs but the lug nuts are seperate pieces. They're made for the Black Widow so they should be close to the same scale as the Monogram Kurtis Kraft kit. I still miss Model Racing Replica News.

The slicks in the kit are very close - Monogram made the slicks wider for the funny cars and prostocks in the '80's - Competition Resins CRT-510 are the same width as the slicks in the earlier dragsters and have sidewall detail.

one idea that I heard long ago - ShooGoo - an adhesive for gluing shoe soles back together. I used ShooGoo on some of the old Revell two piece slicks and it's probably stuck stronger than material that the tires are made out of. Kind of give it a light coat to stick the halves together, then add more in layers inside the tire when it dries to reinforce the seam. Tough stuff but easy to sand off the tread where you don't want it. Didn't leave a noticeable seam. It's pretty easily available where they sell shoe polish or in the adhesive department at the hardware store. Works good on shoes, too.

Check out Southern Motorsports and Hobbies - the Coronet body that I ordered from SMH was in stock and in my hands in less than two weeks. They offer a 1963 Ford Galaxy "boxtop" (sorry, I'm not Ford guy so don't know if "boxtop and "notch roof" are the same thing)

Probably depends on the year of competition- the NHRA rulebook changes... Here's a line from the 1967 Rule book - from the of the gasser section - Bodies: Gas Coupes/Sedans --- " ... Full-fendered steel-bodied roadsters and convertible coupes/sedans may compete in this division without top but must have a roll bar..." The rule book also has body requirements for Modified Sports Cars and Street Roadsters so those classes were also current that year kind of dry reading, but hope it helps

Have to agree... great products, well cast, quick delivery, and great customer service Scott is also very helpful with questions about his products.

Wow, I'm looking forward to this! A couple of alphabets in good gasser font styles with a pinstrip outline would be great for "could have been" gasser models. Gold leaf would be a bonus for sure. Model rairoad decal alphabets don't have the right look. Most '60's gassers had just the names of the owner or team lettered on the door with transmission, camshaft, and fiberglass sponsors spelled out on the hood and quarter panel. The gasser books above are a good resource for photos. Hope this helps

Perry's business probably does OK - it's difficult to beat 100% profit... In July 2010, I called to ask about the availability and lead time for a 1965 Coronet body - In the back of my mind, I was already planning to cut my losses and order just one. But he told me no problem, several in stock because he was getting ready for a show. So I rushed to the post office and sent a money order for two. Got nothing... Called and wrote a couple of times - always had a story. One time Randy told me that the fire department had shut down his casting operation at home - too many chemicals. Another time he told me he couldn't cast at the shop because customers needed attention. Told me he sent it, told me he would send it, told me he couldn't find the order, told me he found the order, told me he would send it again... Last time I called he even said he would send some extra goodies for my trouble. I followed up with an inquiry to the post office and he did receive the money order. I’ve received nothing. One of those guys that make you really appreciate the good resin casters.

check the build diaries at www.landracing.com There are some good post there with detailed construction photos.

The Surface Transportation Assistance Act of about 1982 changed the market almost overnight. Prior to the STAA, state regulations limited the overall length of the combination tractor and trailer - shorter cab equals more trailer. New federal regulations went into effect for vehicles operated on Interstate Highways, connecting roads, and roads built with federal money - the STAA requirements only restricted the lengh of the trailer. Of course there were many other details and exceptions in the regulations. It instantly made the conventional more popular when the length of the tractor was no longer a factor in the size and weight requirements. yeah, that's kind of dry, but it's late and it takes at least two cups of coffee to get through the regulations...

If this is an older kit with the 1980's Monogram dull chrome, a dip in brake fluid for 5 minutes will remove the dull and leave the bright chrome underneath. Overnight will remove all of the chrome. Experiment on a a couple of pieces of sprue. gloves to protect your hands and good safety precautions with this stuff

I have to join this party. Great Service - Every order has arrived just as quick as he said it would. Heavy into NASCAR and decals - has some things that you won't see anyplace else. It's fun just cruising his web site. And if you're in Charlotte or Mooresville, it's a pretty drive through that part of North Carolina to the store.

Go for it - I have the Modelhaus 1956 Chevrolet sedan delivery kit for the Monogram '56 Nomad and it is very good - like everything from Modelhaus. It's a good piece with seats, interior panels, cargo floor, and hub caps. Wouldn't expect anything different from them for a '55 sedan delivery. I have a '56 2-door wagon resin body from somewhere else with the lower roof - not as good. oops - sorry, posting at the same time again...