Muncie

Speed City Resin has some nice fuel injection manifolds - no Crower, but a good selection of nicely detailed Hilborn and Enderle manifolds

That’s a good find - better than most that are out there. I wish AMT would reissue these old CanAm kits - they make good looking models.

no problem, as I've gotten older, the smaller package is probably healthier for me absolutley addicted to thin mints with no self control - if the package is open, it means they are gone... Besides the fundraiser part - the kids are learinng how to do sales and handle money.

I'm kind of liking the subject matter - is it OK if I build them, too... This is a good thing - something the kids can build without much supervision and some subjects that we will like.

exactly - there are two parts to buying a car. The emotional - that's excatly the car that I want and the financial arrangements. They have to be kept separate and if one doesn't work, it's not the right deal. I also agree with the comment about using a credit union. Much more pleasant people to work with than the dealer. Around here, the sales person's first question is always how much do I want to pay. I answer honestly and say "nothing". Seems to trip them up when they have to give the first number. However, over the last 20 years I've only dealt with 2 dealers that had good, smart salespeople and didn't play games so it was a pleasant experience. hope this helps

check the web sites for the component manufacurers - there are some diagrams there. Moroso's dry sump plumbing schematic is an example - it seems to be timeless - was a good reference diagram in the 70's, still is.

never tried - got a start on one A-arm and it didn't go well - at that point, realized that making one should be easy but making the second to match was a bigger challenge... I think it would take some serious fixturing to pull it off. I don't think there was much change in the front suspension between the 1980 and 1984 in pro-stock. Would it be possible to get the suspension parts that you need from the 1984 Rehr-Morrison Camaro? just $.02 (or less)

yeah, the original part is also kinda sorta sometimes fits as well.

I've only seen the tonneau cover in black plastic which means it was a very early issue - sorry, don't know which one. Somebody reproduces it in resin.

did they let you keep the little tray and tools - picked up a plastic tray with a some hospital grade scissors, tweezers and a sugical clamp last summer... no need for details on how they were obtained...

Bernard, Most drill chucks are simply threaded onto the shaft of the drill. Disassemble the drill enoough to hold the shaft and with a little effort, the chuck will come off. Some drills even have a provision in the housing to insert a pin (or drill bit) to hold the shaft. The bonus here is that most chucks are a standard thread so it gives you a headstart toward adding a handle. oops posting at the same time again.. yep, forgot about the screw inside the chuck... removing the screw makes it easier to take the chuck off the drill...

a spare chuck from an old electric drill works perfectly - hardware stores used to sell replacement chucks but the last time I looked, they have become expensive. a handle could be added but the chuck by itself gives enough to hold on to. it also makes a great weight for holding things together when the glue dries.

more possibilities... It could be used to build a Chevrolet. The main body unit on GM staion wagons from the firewall back is basically the same for both Oldsmobile and Chevrolet. I've seen a Chevy wagon donate it's body for an Oldsmobile project.

hope I'm OK stepping into the middle of this... Have some guys in the area with salt in their blood - it's uncurable. Decades of Bonneville experience among them. They've been building an incredible streamliner - two KB's, 4WD - a work of mechanical art - water in the blocks that's circulated to a seperate tank for each engine. Make that polished stainless steel tanks. The reservoirs provide some cooling for the engines and a bit of ballast - Although Bonneville is like a long drag race, the weight helps more than it hurts. www.target550.com There is a lot of good construction information for many other salt flat cars in the build diaries at www.landracing.com

Casey, thank you for bringing back some good memories. About 4th grade - remember the folks took us four kids to the '62 World's Fair - can't magine herding four kids like my parents did... Typical drizzly Seattle day - rode the monorail, toured some pavilions, saw the space needle, and watched the logging show in the rain. Saw the AMT display with the Silhouette but wouldn't have recognized who was there. In 1962, it looked like we'd all be driving bubble tops by now. Mom and Dad would always buy us souvenirs when we went on trips and I brought home an AMT kit of the Space Needle. Brush painted it Testors orange per the instructions and gluebombed it in about an hour... maybe it was 30 minutes.

OK, first car - 1956 210 Handyman - Revell's 1956 Del Ray is where you want to start for the body. The Del Ray is simply a regualr 210 series two-door sedan with a "family duty" intereior if I remember the GM brochures correctly and Del Ray is a really cool name. The sedans and the regular wagons share the same windshield and doors - identical! As noted in the earlier posts, the Nomads/hardtops/convertibles have a two inch shorter windshield as well as the hardtop window openings. Model Haus gets it right (again) - the roof height on their 55-57 wagons and sedan deliveries is correct. I've seen another 1956 2-door wagon resin body that was mastered off the Nomad and that roof is little low - but nice if you're looking for a chopped top. In all cases, the two door door is longer than the front door on a four door. On the wagons, the rear curved quarter glass on a four door wagon is longer then the rear curved quarter glass on a two door - note the position of the glass divider/end of the rear door. The roof on the regluar wagon is longer than a Nomad, and the tailgate is a different shape - not just the trim. As mentioned above, a lot of work to do a conversion. A Nomad kit is also required... The wagon and Nomad chassis are the same - The sedan/hardtops have a differernt fuel tank shape and location than the wagons. Wagons and Nomads use the same rear bumpers with the license plate on the bumper. hope this helps

Some of the MPC Chevettes had a set of IMSA flares...

Dale, like that cutaway drawing - lots of construction details there sorry, I'm still tech challenged so no pics The master cylinder will be under the floorboard with an access plate just ahead of the driver seat. Pedals are mounted at the floor level instead of under the dash like a passenger car. Pedals and master cylinder are like the mid-80's Monogram Pro Stock kits except the kits don't have much detaili this area... Should be some good reference on the chassis builder's web sites with an internet search.

That looks like this will be another cool build. Check out Replicas and Miniatures of Maryland. The wheel set P-129 may be what you are looking. It's those halibarand wheels without knockoffs but the lug nuts are seperate pieces. They're made for the Black Widow so they should be close to the same scale as the Monogram Kurtis Kraft kit. I still miss Model Racing Replica News.

The slicks in the kit are very close - Monogram made the slicks wider for the funny cars and prostocks in the '80's - Competition Resins CRT-510 are the same width as the slicks in the earlier dragsters and have sidewall detail.

one idea that I heard long ago - ShooGoo - an adhesive for gluing shoe soles back together. I used ShooGoo on some of the old Revell two piece slicks and it's probably stuck stronger than material that the tires are made out of. Kind of give it a light coat to stick the halves together, then add more in layers inside the tire when it dries to reinforce the seam. Tough stuff but easy to sand off the tread where you don't want it. Didn't leave a noticeable seam. It's pretty easily available where they sell shoe polish or in the adhesive department at the hardware store. Works good on shoes, too.

Check out Southern Motorsports and Hobbies - the Coronet body that I ordered from SMH was in stock and in my hands in less than two weeks. They offer a 1963 Ford Galaxy "boxtop" (sorry, I'm not Ford guy so don't know if "boxtop and "notch roof" are the same thing)

Probably depends on the year of competition- the NHRA rulebook changes... Here's a line from the 1967 Rule book - from the of the gasser section - Bodies: Gas Coupes/Sedans --- " ... Full-fendered steel-bodied roadsters and convertible coupes/sedans may compete in this division without top but must have a roll bar..." The rule book also has body requirements for Modified Sports Cars and Street Roadsters so those classes were also current that year kind of dry reading, but hope it helps

Have to agree... great products, well cast, quick delivery, and great customer service Scott is also very helpful with questions about his products.

Wow, I'm looking forward to this! A couple of alphabets in good gasser font styles with a pinstrip outline would be great for "could have been" gasser models. Gold leaf would be a bonus for sure. Model rairoad decal alphabets don't have the right look. Most '60's gassers had just the names of the owner or team lettered on the door with transmission, camshaft, and fiberglass sponsors spelled out on the hood and quarter panel. The gasser books above are a good resource for photos. Hope this helps