Muncie

Thanks Tim - it's good to have some good reference. I was thinking oxblood for the interior on my project. Is the gold the sandard interior paint color with oxblood trim or did Pete use the exterior color? Have to agree about wanting some steel wheels but will probably use the wheels - strip and refinish them to get an unpolished look.

Grew up in a Mopar family - Learned to drive in a 1960 Dodge Dart Seneca, and a 1971 Satelite. Ether of those would be OK That '68 Impala would be wonderful - and with woodgrain trim could easily be a Caprice But the one I want is a 1956 Chevrolet 210 Handyman 2-door wagon. One of the resin bodies is close, but none have the tailgate good enough. With the Nomad chassis and the DelRay sedan, Revell is 3/4 there. Could aslo make a sedan delivery out of it. Other than some general appeal as a junior stocker drag car or cool street car, probably not enough to make it to production.

Bill, enjoyed the video, looks like a good resource - and the vertex diagram is perfect for some early dragster projects in the queue - thanks,Steve

The Mallory super mags used on Funny car and top fuel in the 70's (probably 60's and 80's also) had an external coil for each magneto - Revell may have created the impression that there was no coil because they molded the coil into the engine block on the 70's funny cars... Google, Yahoo and the Mallory website should produce lots of reference for the time period that you are intersted in.

Thanks Brett - that answers a lot of questions

True in some companies - too many out there to say it's not. However, the proliferation and maintenence of new drawing numbers is a huge expense. A new drawing requires someplace to keep it - Affected bills of material will need to be revised or created, procurement needs ot be handled to build inventory, production changeover has to be set-up and completed, purchasing asgreements may be affected - even replacement parts systems need to deal with new inventory and part numbers. Lots of things that I haven't thought of - It lasts for years. So there is some business advantage to revising a drawing without changing the number. There will be guidelines (form, fit, fuction criteria) and method to revise a drawing without a number change. It may take a chapter in the company's Engineering manual to cover the procedure. The change will be referenced on the drawing and (unless the company is skipping this detail - unlikely at GM) documented with an Enginering job with the change and the reason. It's something that somebody unfamilar with the the process may question but it's not going to hide anything. It's not a new thing either - I've been going through a 1956 GM Chevrolet assembly manual for a local project - looking at it quickly today, about 40% of the pages have at least one change thorugh the production year.,

Harry, agreed - and they are doing something...

OK, back to off-topic here... In my days in the local auto parts store, in the 70's - 40 years ago, we sold ignition switches and lock cylinders. Not a lot, but we had them in stock. When we sold one, the guy usually brought in is old switch and lock cylinder. Then he laid his key ring on the counter next to it because the pound of keys wouldn't fit in his pocket. We pointed at the keys and told him - that's the problem... I need to go work on a model...

I hate speculating here... we don't have even a fraction of the facts If the engineer signed off on the PPAP, he probably did it without knowing there could be some sort of problem... signing off a PPAP on a part that does not meet specs is normal - you wouldn't do it on a casting that came in in two pieces, but you might if the primer on a part wasn't the correct shade of gray. If that's what you are saying is GM knew they had a problem, it wouldn't even make the radar screenif he didn't report it back to purchasing or Engineering,. Parts are not only controlled by the part number - a change that does not affect form, fit, or function can be done as a revision level without changing the part number - been that way for decades. Traceablity is a little more difficult because parts with different revision levels can be mixed - but they can be found. - that was probably done within GM's procedures. Warranty information is shared with NHTSA under the TREAD Act - so they weren't hiding something they knew. However, the ignition switch probably didn't generate a lot of warranty claims. We don't have anywhere near the information that GM has to make thier decisions - Right now, they are proceeding with an abundance of caution - partly because of the attention, but mostly because it's the correct thing to do. Corporations are being painted in some of these posts as some sort of evil empire - the reality is that they are made of indivduals. Whether their uniform is a shirt and tie or jeans and a t-shirt in the plant, they want do a good job, build a good product and keep the customer happy with their work. Pride in workmanship. Somewhere along the way, I lost my layman status with this stuff so I know GM has way more information than we or the media will ever see. I don't think they are hiding it, they just want to get the cars fixed. My (somewhat experienced) gut feel is that they are doing the right thing - beyond what is required. The media wants to deliver news - and stay in business, too. Back to the topic, - yeah, GM will do OK

Well done!

NHTSA's number for the new Chrysler ignition recall is 14V-373 - Their part 573 defect information report to NHTSA can be found on NHTSA's web site. One of the GM ignition recalls is in the list in the post a couple of pages back - the link works there for NHTSA's number 14V-355 similar issues, different designs will let you do the research and draw your own conclussions...

Beautiful. I remember listening upstairs to the 500 on a little AM readio and after Len Sutton (local, drove for Vollstedt, also local), Parnelli was my favorite.

Maybe drifting a little bit from the topic… but it might be interesting Recalls - grab a couple of cups of coffee because the government and regulations are involved. To paraphrase a bit, motor vehicle manufacturers must submit a report to the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration for a defect that presents an unreasonable risk to motor vehicle safety or for a non-compliance with a Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standard. The remedy and notification to the vehicle owner is part of these regulations. That makes what is commonly called a recall. In real life, things are different than what we see in the media and we won‘t hear about most of them. There are usually 500 to 600 recalls annually. There is enough fun in this for everybody - GM, Ford, Toyota, Nissan, BMW, passenger cars, trucks, everything just this week. The list below is the recalls on NHTSA’ weekly notification for 6/30/2014. It’s a bit longer than normal because the air bag inflator issue that affected several manufacturers and a couple of the GM recalls that we already know about also made the list this week. It’s important to note that these are all considered voluntary recalls by the manufacturer. NHTSA - weekly recall notice 6/30/2014 14V248 - JERR-DAN / 2007-2014 - Underlift Boom may Drift Down 14V249 - SEAGRAVE / 2013-2014 - Seat Belt may be Difficult to Unlatch/FMVSS 209 14V250 - ELGIN / 2013 - Seat Belt may be Difficult to Unlatch/FMVSS 209 14V255 - LODAL / 2011-2013 - Ice May Form in Intake Manifold 14V257 - CHAMPION / 2013 - Wheelchair Lift Armored Pendant Cable Short circuit 14V263 - NISSAN / 2014 - Circuit Board Voltage may Result in Shutdown 14V264 - BMW / 2012-2014 - Camshaft Chain Tensioner may cause Engine Stall 14V269 - ELDORADO / 2012-2014 - Wheelchair Lift Pendant Cable Short circuit 14V316 - FORD / 2014 - Loss of Steering Control 14V320 - BMW / 2014 - Rear Shock Absorber may Break 14V335 - MCI / 1993-1995,2006,2008 - Driveshaft may Detach from Motor Coach 14V340 - NISSAN / 9999 - Passenger Frontal Air Bag Inflator may Rupture 14V343 - FORD / 2004-2007 - Frontal Air Bag Inflators may Rupture 14V344 - MAZDA / 2003-2008 - Frontal Air Bag Inflators may Rupture 14V346 - CHEVROLET / 2010-2014 - Knee Contact may Turn Ignition Switch Off 14V348 - BMW / 2001-2006 - Frontal Air Bag Inflators may Rupture 14V349 - ACURA / 2003, HONDA / 2002-2003 - Passenger Air Bag Inflator Rupture 14V350 - LEXUS/2003-2005, PONTIAC/2003-2005,TOYOTA/2003-2005 - Passenger Side Air Bag Inflator may Rupture 14V351 -ACURA/2002-2006, HONDA/2001-2011- Driver Air Bag Inflator Rupture 14V353 - ACURA/2003-2005, HONDA/2003-2005 - Passenger Air Bag Inflator Rupture 14V354 - CHRYSLER / 9999 - Frontal Air Bag Inflators may Rupture 14V355 - BUICK/2005-2011,CADILLAC/2000-2011,CHEVROLET/2006-2014 14V372 - CHEVROLET / 2013-2014 - Driver's Front Air Bag Inflator Rupture Check your car for recalls... documents, investigations, and much more information here - www.nhtsa.dot.gov

When I visited the Corvette Museum in 2007, I had a chance to drive through some beautiful country with some interesting natural geology and rock formations near Bowling Green - it was a quick trip and I didn't get much chance to look around. It's on the list to go back. it sounds like the sinkhole is related to the natural geography in that region. I'd be interested if the msueum just dedicated this part of the museum to information about the local area. There is a lot more to do and see in that part of the country than the Corvette Museum.

Brett, I'm really looking forward to your build (and getting my kit when the hobby shop calls) The cylindrical object in front of the driver side valve cover is a mechanical rev limiter. There is a splitter attached to the tach drive on the distributor body with two cables - one for the mechanical tach and one to the rev limiter. The tach, rev limiter, splitter and cables were available from several suppliers - Moroso, Stahl, Stewart Warner and Jones-Motrola. Wasn't Sox and Martin hooked up with Stewart Warner?

yes, the steering shaft telescopes above the u-joint on the steering box on a Freigtiner COE. Shift linkage is chassis mounted and the shift lever goes through a hole in the deck beside the tunnel. Have to make sure the lever aligns with the hole to tilt the cab. Clutch linkage seperates - there is a small frame mounted guide that aligns a fork on the end of the clutch rod with the lever on the pedal below the deck. Most of the air brake control and heater plumbing between the cab and chassis routes around the cab pivot on the passenger side. Sorry, this isn't much detail, but hopefully helps you find more information.

now you're making me give away secrets hobbies in OC - I knew somebody was going to ask that because I know where they are but not what they are called... glad you got the name for Coyote Hobbies. I believe the other one is called Farm Toys and Hobbies. They were heavy into the die cast Ertl tractors, Breyer horses, and trains with some models. They used to be right on the corner of the main drag in downtown Oregon City right at the bridge, then they moved north a block, now they are about two blocks south of the bridge. As they downsized, the tractors and horses went away and the model car section became a larger part of their business. Not much paint but lots of kits. Nice people. and the '70's are still alive in Eugene

The hobby shop in Beaverton is Tammies Here's the set-up for another event if your trip happens sometime in June though September... Beaches Cruise-in, every Wednesday evening from the first week in June to the last week in September at Portland International Raceway. 1973 and earlier and Corvettes. 600 to 2,200 cars depending on weather and other factors - biggest events are in September when people who haven't made the show realize that summer is almost over and bring out their cars. So here's how it goes at Beaches Cruise-in. Drive in and park - look at cars and talk to old friends and new friends - walk around the Wednesday drag racing pits - go watch 1/8th mile drag racing time trials, brackets and grudge racing - look at the motorcycles (about 150) - time for a burger and a beer - watch the music - look at cars and talk to people - repeat. $5.00 per car. There is some outside parking available for spectators, also $5 to walk in. There are also a couple of Hobbytown USAs that are pretty good. No Hobby Lobby, several Michael's, no sales tax Portlanders are very proud of the local microbreweries which are also good places to get a good meal at a fair price even if you're not interested in the beer. McMenamins has converted several intersting old buidings from neighborhood taverns to schools into interesting brew pubs but there are many others.

If you're in Portland, Saturday, May 10 - the Saturday before Mother's day... it's getting close The Portland Transmission Warehouse Cruise-in in SE Portland - basically the first outdoor show around Portland and probably the best. It's held near SE 10th and Hawthorne about 7:00 AM - it's done and gone by 11:00. FREE! They close off several blocks and fill the streets and parking lots in a major chunk of this older eastside industrial neighborhood. Can't miss it if you get close. (should see the puzzled looks on the local bike riders) Mostly Street rods and muscle cars but a bit of everything. 600 cars if it's good weather. It's where everybody brings out what they've been working on all winter. Last year - walked by this Bugatti five times and thought kit car VW - really looked again and it was the real deal and it was driven in. In the same blcok they were firing up a vintage dragster and one of MickeyThompson's old cars was on a hauler... Al Drake was selling his hot rod history books. SABA has a small model car display inside the warehouse. Coin Corner in Oregon City has turned into basicaly a junk shop - but there are two small Hobby Shops in Oregon City - one has a limited supply of older kits at non-collector prices. If you're on the other side of town, Hillsboro Hobbies is a good well stocked shop with nice people. There's not much selection in town for aftermarket stuff but we're fortunate that we have several shops to choose from.

thanks for the link - i like it. three days - probably missed more than I saw

I would use Mark's' answer for a car that doesn't see mag chloride or other winter road de-icers. Can't beat a good polish on bare aluminum - my favorite color. Keeping up with the damage done by de-icing chemicals may be a full time job - they never sleep. here's a clear coat option - There may be better things out there including companies that restore factory wheels but Duplicolor makes a clear for wheels - it may be more durable than other rattle can products - I'm going to try it to fix some light curb rash on some clear coated wheels. I've heard of people going to the effort and expense to have polished wheels clear coated by an authorized Accuride wheel refinisher - that's heavy truck stuff so that would be top end and most durable. Hope that's better news than my last post.

Harry, You've got some bad corrosion going on there and it looks like the clear coat is failing - as they say, that's not going to buff out.. Sanding (very fine) and polishing will remove the corrosion but it's going to come back unless the clear coat is repaired or redone. Your car is too new to have this problem - can Ford do anything for you? factory service bulletins? anything on the Mustang forums? You can't be the only one with this problem. it may have been mentioned - try a little bit of polish on a spot where the wheel is still good - if the rag turns black the wheel is not coated - if the rag doesn't change color, the wheel is clear coated. Corrosion like that at the wheel centers can actually start at the wheel mounitng surface (contact between dis-similar metals) and spread to the outer surface. It may look worse inside the cap... sorry - hate to see that happen

lots on the web of course, but a trip to an aviation museum is a more enjoyable way to do research on Allison engines - many have an engine on display. Hydroplane and thunder boat museums are also a good source.

Wow, ordered two last week with a money order and they arrived today - awesomely quick service. very well packed - good first impression - I like that. The castings are absolutely gorgeous and will fit the chassis that I'm going to use - it's a good day and these will be fun to build. highly recommended without hesitation

'70's and 80's Freightliner COE cab lengths... 63" was the "standard" day cab length. Also available as a 51" (shares some structure with the conventional) and extremely rare 48" which was manufactured primarily for a company that hauled large empty tanks. The 48" cab was pretty tight for most drivers. COE Sleeper sizes - 75", 81", 86", 96" and 104". The 72" cab had a very narrow bunk but probably best not to call it a sleeper. Conventional - FLC (aluminum) 120", 115" and 113" Sleeper box sizes - 34", 40", and 60" Some of the cab lengths were available, but not published options.