Muncie

thanks Russ - good to have it clarified for the topic at hand - I've spent some time on Fords, too - good to know

correct, the size regulations for the interstates and designated highways regulate the length of the trailer and do not include the cab. There are still some roads off the national network where the state overall length rules for the combination still apply - but the state rules see limited enforcement so the national regulations basically apply there also... of course we're talking regulations here so it's more complicated, but that's the basics. Under the cab, there isn't much difference between a COE and a conventional - same engines, same chassis, same suspensions, same electrical, same brake system... different steering and shifter, longer wheelbase of course. Some of the higher horsepower engines, especially with later emissions engines, are not be available in a COE because available space under the cab isn't big enough to handle the cooling systems. Current demand for high horsepower and lack of space for an adequate cooling system basically put an end to the production of COE's about 5 years ago in class 8 (over 33,00 pounds) heavy duty trucks. COE's still have some applications in the smaller medium duty classes.

Bill, I like your schematics - that's usually more detail than I put in a model Let's add a couple more parts. Ford has the solenoid ("relay" in this diagram) for the starting system remotely mounted - usually on the fenderwell - The positive battery cable goes from the battery to the solenoid, then to the starter. Missing in this diagram is the cable from the other side of the solenoid to the starter. I'm also used to seeing a ballast resistor (or resistor wire) in the wire from the ignition switch to the coil with a bypass wire from the solenoid to the coil for starting with full 12 volts - Chevy guy so not sure where Ford puts the ballast resistor (maybe in the coil?) More internet image searches for the OP - Ford engine wiring schematic, ford starter wiring schematic, ford ignition wiring schematic... or the basic how to fix your Ford book available inexpensively at most used book stores - or - How to Wire Your Street Rod From Start to Finish by Jack Sweeden, at Speedway Motors about $12 which covers most electrical systems Hope this helps

I'm hoping Revell adds an extra set of wheels in the Foose FD100 and EldoRod kits. Those kits will have unique tires so the wheel choices that fit will be limited to what's in the box. Good for Revell and Chip because it makes the kit a two-in-one - either as a replica or something special for the builder. It would make the wheels and tires useful for other projects as well.

The Surface Transportation Assistance Act of 1982 changed the whole heavy trucking industry from cab-over to to conventional. It replaced state regulations that limited overall length with national requirements for the length of the trailer on interstate and designated highways. When things were limited by overall length, the cab-over equation was shorter cab equals more trailer, more trailer equals more revenue. When the DOT dropped the cab from the equation, the industry changed over to conventional cabs - most drivers preferred the conventionals.

The transmission color on a new truck will depend on several things but mostly it is how the trucks were assembled on the line... which depends on manufacturer, build location, and when it was built. If you can find some brochures on the internet with chassis pictures, that would be good reference The Cleveland Truck plant has always painted the chassis before the engine and transmission are installed - the transmission would be painted by the transmission manufacturer, which varied by manufacturer and transmission model. In the 70's, Freightliner installed the engine before chassis paint. The engine and radiator was masked off (not too neatly around the edges) but the transmission was painted chassis color. Black became the standard chassis color in the mid-80's but the chassis could be any solid color up until the mid-90's when the optional colors were discontinued. By the mid-90's, with new plants and production line changes, the chassis were painted before engine drop and the air lines were installed.

yep, Penney's had an automotive department - bought a set of 15x6 chrome rally wheels for $50 when they were closing it out in about 1970 -

ahhh, but it's a four door Bel Air hardtop... not the common mid-level sedan - fairly rare... probably somebody out there that is looking for one

now, if you had tried to do that... woulda been a lot of work...

The article on the Corvettes and the mystery engine is an amazing history. Funny how I hadn't seen the December issue until last week at the magazine rack and my copy arrived yesterday with the January issue - oh well, all here now. Vintage Racing Miniatures has a sheet of decals for the 614 Corvette that includes some of the markings and numbers that would work on the Mickey Thompson Corvettes. i didn't see the Mickey Thompson markings for the rear fender in the image on their web site, but that may be poor resolution on their web site. Slixx also has some number sheets that may work for some of the cars just 2 cents worth - I'm not aware of anything specific for the Mickey Thompson Corvettes

great reference pictures - seldom get to see the block like that outside of a car thank you for researching the date - it's good to have it defined, sorry I left it so fuzzy. If you are building late 60's, early 70's, most of the fuel racers left the iron block bare - didn't have to mess with hot tanking the block to remove the paint when it had to go back to the machine shop for repair work. Hot tanking damages the cam bearings so the unpainted block saved removing and installing new cam bearings - critical to minimize machine shop time and expense between races for most weekend warriors OK, back to the original paint question...

my favorite paint for cast aluminum was Krylon Dull Aluminum. It even dried to a cast like surface - Alas, went looking for some last week and couldn't find it in the stores... Not sure if their other metallic paints come close - Sorry, I know tha'ts no help - I'm starting a new search for a solution Something about the dates has me wondering - seems like the aluminum blocks didn't come out until the early 70's. Prior to that KB engines would have been Mopar iron blocks. trivia - the first 25 KB blocks were cast with the letters Chrysler above the oil pan rail - Mother Mopar said no no no and pointed out that the 426 was never installed in a Chrysler - 426 hemi's were only Dodge or Plymouth.

I've seen them elsewhere but I also order from Speed City Resin. He keeps an inventory on hand instead of casting on order - good parts and you get them in days. Speed City has both the 426 and 392 valve covers in your pictures with dual breathers. Might be a few other things that you want there as well. http://www.speedcityresin.com/PartsPageEngine.html

several resin casters repop the old 1/25 scale Johan 426 M/T finned valve covers with the logo. The Monogram McEwen rear engine dragster that was recently reissued (yeah!) has a pair of the large single valve cover breathers like the top photo - except with an EP - Ed Pink - logo.

yes, sounds too thick, not enough thinner - Lacquer shouldn't go bad with age if the can is kept closed tight. Not sure if Duplicolor is putting something else in the cans now days, but I've sprayed 30 year old Ditzler clear with no problem. you've inadvertently learned how to do custom spiderweb paint - The basic method for that is no thinner and very low pressure

All good tips - good information for building models even if they are not intended for a contest. I don't build for contests but have entered to participate and have fun - bringing home a trophy is a bonus.

Hemmings Classic Car magazine in the mail today - four page personality profile - photos of some of the cars, some history,

Picked up issue #3 at a local Hobbytown - don't know why they put their price sticker in the middle of the cover... Lots of interesting and informative articles - kind of geared for vintage and scratch building but a little of everything. Remember soldering brass chassis? It's like model cars but with different materials and techniques. What you get is useful to add more model car building skills to the toolbox.

This is a question that should get 20 answers if you ask ten people... I agree with the posts above that reference material is important - a close look will probably show that each part is different color, texture, shine, and gloss, I haven't tried them yet, but the local hobby shop had a Humbrol paint rack with about six or eight different shades of aluminum. Plenty to try, but not too expensive either. Looks like my next science project. The go to basic aluminum for me is Krylon dull aluminum - It is a good as-cast aluminum color and also works great as a good base coat under Testors Metal Master - dries fast and easy to use. Rattle can chrome paints from hobby, craft auto and hardware stores make a good polished aluminum. They take a bit of experimentation to find the color and shine you want/need because each brand is little different. More tips and ideas please -

yep, always rob the chuck off an old burned up power drill before you throw it away - there is usually a hole in the motor shaft behind the chuck - slide pin in the shaft and the chuck should unscrew - makes a good handle for larger drill bits - one of those stepped uni-bits works really well but spendy - the steps seem to be the right increment to enlarge a hole without doing damage.

wow! Learned to drive on the family '65 Belvedere wagon... A little different, slant six , three on the tree... but this one hits close to the soul. Good to see that Moebius did a great job. Thanks for the review

yep, that's it. thanks for including all of the story about how you got there - it's good reading - really explains how a small change in the dimensions can make a big difference

Have to agree with these tips - no power - all of the holes that I drill are done with pin vise - starting small and working up in small steps. I believe the hole in the window that you are making is a minimum 6" diameter opening for the safety crews to access the interior with a fire extinguisher. That's about 1/4" in scale. At that size, it is difficult to get a round hole in plastic with a drill bit. Best to get up close to size with a drill and finish with a round file. take it easy - not much pressure

Might be worth a trip to the next automotive swap meet and find a magazine seller that is looking for inventory... sell them all in one lot

same here, would love to see these kits return - either as kits or as the parts packs it would take to complete the cars