Muncie

just brainstorming - may take a lttle work to adapt or modify back into street engines... The Mongoose rear engine dragster has a decent supercharged hemi for it't time The later funny car kits have a very good 1/24 hemi - Keith Black engine block. The snake/Mongoose funny cars have a hemi with a torqueflite

Does't matter to me what the date or number is on the cover... Picked up the latest new issue - 2015 contest issue - at the local hobby shop a couple of days ago. Wow! Must be the biggest issue yet - 86 pages cover to cover. Excellant contest coverage at many good shows with an interesting selection of models. Plus a neat bonus article about building a highly detailed '57 Ford by Mark S. Gustavson. Gotta say I like it!

Steve, This decal is on my list as well so I took a look at it on on Chuck's decal page - I see the challenge - the decal does not include the red on the nose - would be difficult to do all of the shapes around the grill, bumper and headlights as a decal. Painting the red with an abrupt seperation between the decal and the paint would require a dead-on match... The alternative - fog the paint onto the decal so the color blends from paint to decal. The flames are faded at the front of the body... Need a red paint that is close - Air brush - apply the flame decals - dial the spray pattern down to paint the nose wth a soft edge onto the front of the decal - apply the headlight and grill decals - clear coat and polish per standard procedure. Rattle can - apply the flame decals - "Roll tape" the edge and mask off the rest of the body. Roll taping is sticking the tape down on one edge with the other edge lifted above the surface. It is a way to control a blended edge. Spraying over the lifted edge will give a fogged line over the decal that can be faded so that it blends into the paint on the nose. Roll taping may be another use for post-it notes. Office supply stores have a low-tack clear tape that should be easier on the decal - I believe it is also a post-it note product practice, experiment

very good garage sale find a couple of years ago - saw some long springs from a gundam kit at a garage sale - very lexible and very finely wound - very convincing as a brake hose. Couldn't tell that they were just a spring from a foot away... Perhaps there are parts packs for gundam kits???

Skip, Good question, it would be good to have some other sources for these wheels and tires. As a full set, the Orange Hauler is the only kit with the Orange Hauler wheels and tires. As mentioned above, the wheels and tires from some of the other Monogram kits will interchange - sometimes with just a little effort to ajdust fit for axle diameter. The Orange Hauler has white wall skinnies with inserts for the front tires, the rears are wider whitewall piecrust slicks. Front wheels are chrome reverse with a two blade knock off style spinners. Rears are the same but different size to fit the slicks. The wheels in the Little T are closest, but probably more difficult to find. Baby Moon hubcaps instead of the spinners The Blue Beetle uses the same front wheels (from slightlly different tooling) and whitewall skinnies on the front, but has five spoke American mags on the rear. The restored Blue Bandito issue has newly tooled wheels and tires. (Monogram tooled new sprues for the wheels and tires - great idea because nothing was lost from the other recent issues of the Model A pickup) Front tires are slightly larger diameter. The Blue Bandito does have good copies of the two blade spinners. It may be easiest to put a post over in the parts wanted section. Hope this helps Steve

don't see where you are coming from JB I've always found the information in Dave's posts to be interesting, accurate, and reliable.

probably a little artistic work in that brochure. The aluminum roof skins were riveted to the roof framing. Have to agree that the rivets in the AMT cab may be a little larger than they need to be.

in the '70's, Freightliner painted the assembled chassis with the engine and transmission installed - even the air lines and wiring harnessses were installed. The engine and radiator were masked off, but the trans was painted chassis color. Chassis color could be any solid color the customer wanted. However... The whole transssion couldn't be painted because there were other things like frame rails and crossmembers in the way. In the areas where the paint didn't cover, the transmssion base color showed through. I remember them all being black on the line before chassis paint. The transmssion brochure probably used red because it looks better.

difficult to really get good color from the photo - but it looks like an orange that Ford had in their commercial/fleet colors - could be the same as grabber orange.

yep, everybody needs one - The story is the guy did the presentation in one take with no notes

Thanks Tim - I've made the trip to the Autorama three times and there are always regrets on the first day of the show when I don't. Detroit is the Motor City! Really appreciate the pictures to see what's there.

yeah, I could go for one of those - but it kind of reminds me that i'm getting into the age when my grandparents alway had Buicks...

#4 - hood - Mark's got it, You can notice the shape near the hood pins that lines up with the character line on the Challenger front fender. The 'Cuda doesn't have that shape. However somebody may have shortened a Challeger hood to fit a 'Cuda. It is an easy modification so it may be worhtwhile check the part against a known Challenger hood for size.

Glad you said it better - would hate to see D-i-L trash something that somebody else would enjoy. Wouldn't even mind it going to some of the dealers that I know because at least it would be re-distributed.

Oh yeah, can remember when the NNL West and the Oakland Roadster show were on the same weekend (probably 1990?ish) what a great combination. Have Linda Vaughns' autograph on a Chezoom poster on the wall in the laundry room as a souvenier.

probably going to have to step over to the the railroad or military corner of the hobby world - maybe in the aftermarket/internet section...

build them... and there is nothing that says they have to be built as Snake and Mongoose either this version is not that rare and not likely to increase in value - they can make more... basically, you got a great deal becaue it's two kits for $35

well, kind of thought not my problem.... But daughter in law doesn't like me and said it all goes in a dumpster so I'm working on another plan. Will be watching here for ideas and useful guidance.

Let me think about that one... If he has too many irons in the fire to fill his orders, why is he trying to operate another business... I guess gave up too early after mailing and calling him for over a year and a half. Never got what I paid for and that was over two years ago. Yeah, I heard the lost in the mail story several times as well, but my money order got there OK Glad you got your parts, there are others out there that never will.

Love - it, very cleanly done have a couple in the queue - thanks for the how-to

dusting off the crystall ball with a little help from Revell's Deuce history... full hood 28-29 chopped coupe (w/option for top insert or filled top) Guide headlamps Deuce grille shell under chassis exhaust system your favorite hot rod engine (the Buick works for me) bomber seats show rod grille shell? another set of wheels salt flat tonneau and Bonneville equipment Just wishing and total speculation here...

Chuck, you gave it one day! Your posts do remind people that you are still out there and making new products... Please add a link to your website in your signature or profile - it wll make it easier to see the other decals that you offer.

That mold line on the edge of the fender should go away - it s a smooth radius on that part of the fender. While you're there, soften up the peak on the top of the fender - it's a little too high and sharp. Leave a lttle of the peak on the top of the fender - it is not a uniform radius like the '55. Revell did a btter job on the 1956 Del Ray. On the 1:1, it is almost not noticable unless you look for it, It takes just a little sanding to make it look a lot better.

'29 on '32 rails - yep, had to check the calendar - it's not April 1 I'll be bugging every hobby shop in town.

paint it all - if I don't, the spot that I didn't paint will be something visible for sure... (should that be posted in you must be a model builder if ...) I used to leave the sides of the interior tub and the inside of the body bare - sure enough could see down thru the window into the gap between the body and interior to see unpainted/ plastic and overspray - that's a difficult spot to touch up later.