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Muncie

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Everything posted by Muncie

  1. Just a thin Dremel abrasive wheel - like the video but different the tubing does get hot.. real hot don't use the flat side of the wheel to smooth the end of the tubing - it will wear and can break the cutting disc. like most power cutting tools, it's something that requires some thoughts about safety... works good to cut steel hobby shop wire/rod as well.
  2. uhhhh, it's a 36 Ford (round body line below the rumble seat lid) - guessing AMT from the gray under the blue - but haven't pulled a kit to confirm AMT or Monogram Agree, many difficult to find parts in here
  3. yeah, knew it was a '32 - but it looks soo good!
  4. D or E - If D or E were unpainted, it would still be D or E
  5. interesting - brings back some memories There was a small HP shop in the service area at the gas station on the corner in 1969. The owner ran a 1968 SS/DA Nova. At that time it was raced every weekend in the racing season. It did pretty well locally if I recall. Yellow, all lettered up, and Cragars - looked good.
  6. Grandmaster it's hard to believe that there could be list where I would pick Hemispere number 6...
  7. In-N-Out - double double animal style with grilled onions - the closest one is 400 miles away... and I've considered making the trip just for lunch... more places in LA - Brookhurst Hobbies - imported model products from around the world - perhaps somebody can add some details - memory is that it was very big into military model building. I didn't/couldn't spend much time on the trip that I was there. Doesn't look like much from outside but impressive inside. Coast Air Brush - be prepared to be overwhelmed. House of Kolors in small sizes, airbrushes (of course), templates, books, magazines, DVDs, tape, sandpaper, pin striper supplies, classes, events...They are set-up for the professional air brush artists so it's pro everything, Very helpful and knowledgeable staff.
  8. O yeah, I agree - Autobooks is a fraction of what it was in the old location and it used to be a much nicer place - but no stores like that around here. The old location was also just a few steps from that great lunch place - find a good car book, get a sandwich, eat and read outside. Some days, life is like it's supposed to be. Pegasus has also lost the focus that it had on model cars - gone more toward RC - used to have a lot of aftermarket that is mostly gone now - used to have lots of Replicas Maryland parts - not much left. Still a lot of kits but mostly current stuff. - but what the heck, it's in the neighborohood near the track. It is big and it's amazing to see how many things they have in the RC and railroad departments. i'm looking forwrd to hearing about more LA shops in this thread. It is a big place and there must be a lot of local shops.
  9. Lots to see in LA/Southern California - big place so everything is really spread out I will agree - Burbank House of Hobbies is small but a good shop with a great selection of hobby tools. Autobooks-Aerobooks in Burbank has a huge selection of books and magazines - but paper is heavy to travel with. New owner was kind of grumpy the day that I was there but not difficult to put up with. Consider checking out some other places - My go-to is the Justice Brothers Museum. It is at their offices so it's close to the track and open early enough to see before the race track opens - three rooms/buidings of everything, open wheel, Indy, drag, hot rods... lots of midgets racers with history because that is where they started - nice people but it's the offices so they are trying to do their day jobs. -- free -- Just ring the bell by the door to get buzzed in. Enjoy a great trip
  10. Snake's method works! and no high speed spinning parts that can grab a blade... Don't need that story in the "you must be a model builder if..." topic A variation is to subsitiute a block of the proper thickness in place of the book. - The block just needs to be the right thickness and large enough to give a stable suport for the saw. It is very easy to control the depth and make a consistent groove. This method can even be used to section a tire to narrow the width. Works great with the rubber tires like Tamiya
  11. OK, I'll take a shot at it... The instructions show the torsion bar lever locating on the radius rod mount on the axle - center up the axle on the chassis and it should line up where it is supposed to go. That will also move the end of the steering arm outbaord of the frame where it will connect to the drag link
  12. Grandmaster all I'm going to say...
  13. At this point, Revell has to be checking to see if any NASCAR noise turns into sales numbers. No sales, they tried and no interest.. Good sales, hope they do some more. Makes sense to me. Yeh, I'm a Chevy fan, but I'll pick up a couple of the Penske Fords... (did I say that out loud?) With today's NASCAR, I bet the chassis will fit under that resin Chevrolet SS resin body real nice. Best case is that a little interest in the NASCAR kits will get Revell thinking about some new drag racers - Pro Mod, Pro Stock, Funny Car - or - just as cool, some ALMS kits (say Corvette!)
  14. Gotta love that black wagon - Can remember when big block full size Chevy wagons with all the toys were darn near required for drag race tow vehicles - with a four speed for when your street car also needed to be cool.. or had to deal with the local kid in a Mustang... Later with young family, had a '67 Caprice wagon with a 325 horse 396 - black with wood and gold inside. 14 mpg, regular gas. great go to the beach car - could be going 40 on the two lane hwy behind some gutless 4-cylinder and when the opportunity to pass.. stand on it move left and it would be at 70mph before it got even to their back bumper with no drama. Learned that it's way easier to find parts if it had been a Camaro... Of course when I sold it, the parts I needed to fix the automatic AC showed up...
  15. Mike, if you're interested, shave the emblem off the rear lift gate as well - I'll bring you better one - the chome trunk emblem from Monogram's '55 Chevy Badman. let me know. - or add the V below the molded in emblem. Good to see your progress on this - you're building the model I want to build. Chevy had two styles of emblems for 1955, 1956, and 1957 passenger cars - front and rear The 6 cylinder cars had a large crest - about 14" long The V-8 cars had a smaller crest above a large V The body you have has the smaller 8 cylinder crest without the V - probably to make it look more like a standard 6 cylinder car with the 235 six which would be common in a stock sedan delivery.
  16. Angel, great looking truck - the lift axle really adds to it - good work
  17. I kind of generalized and simplified a bit... However, given the shorter wheelbase, which puts the lift axle closer to the steer (front) axle, the steerable lift axle is appropriate to reduce tire scrub - better steering control and longer tire life. It could be non-steerable, but the driver would have to lift the axle to make a tight turn. BTW that's a great looking truck. Let's add someting about fifthwheel position - The fifthwheel position needs to be forward of the center of the drive axles to ditribute weight forward onto the lfit axle.
  18. steerable - yes and no... The example in the picture steers by just tracking where the rubber meets the road and is not connected to the steering gear or the front axle. A steerable lift axle is generally located about midway in the wheelbase. The steerable function helps with tire wear and allows the truck to turn easier. not steerable - If the lift axle is located just ahead of the drive axles it would be a pusher axle - they are not steerable - X_______LDD same deal, not steerable if it's a tag axle aft of the drive axles - X_______DDL yes, steerable - If the lift axle is located further forward, about midway in the wheelbase - X____L____DD - this would be a steerable lfit axle
  19. just brainstorming - may take a lttle work to adapt or modify back into street engines... The Mongoose rear engine dragster has a decent supercharged hemi for it't time The later funny car kits have a very good 1/24 hemi - Keith Black engine block. The snake/Mongoose funny cars have a hemi with a torqueflite
  20. Does't matter to me what the date or number is on the cover... Picked up the latest new issue - 2015 contest issue - at the local hobby shop a couple of days ago. Wow! Must be the biggest issue yet - 86 pages cover to cover. Excellant contest coverage at many good shows with an interesting selection of models. Plus a neat bonus article about building a highly detailed '57 Ford by Mark S. Gustavson. Gotta say I like it!
  21. Steve, This decal is on my list as well so I took a look at it on on Chuck's decal page - I see the challenge - the decal does not include the red on the nose - would be difficult to do all of the shapes around the grill, bumper and headlights as a decal. Painting the red with an abrupt seperation between the decal and the paint would require a dead-on match... The alternative - fog the paint onto the decal so the color blends from paint to decal. The flames are faded at the front of the body... Need a red paint that is close - Air brush - apply the flame decals - dial the spray pattern down to paint the nose wth a soft edge onto the front of the decal - apply the headlight and grill decals - clear coat and polish per standard procedure. Rattle can - apply the flame decals - "Roll tape" the edge and mask off the rest of the body. Roll taping is sticking the tape down on one edge with the other edge lifted above the surface. It is a way to control a blended edge. Spraying over the lifted edge will give a fogged line over the decal that can be faded so that it blends into the paint on the nose. Roll taping may be another use for post-it notes. Office supply stores have a low-tack clear tape that should be easier on the decal - I believe it is also a post-it note product practice, experiment
  22. very good garage sale find a couple of years ago - saw some long springs from a gundam kit at a garage sale - very lexible and very finely wound - very convincing as a brake hose. Couldn't tell that they were just a spring from a foot away... Perhaps there are parts packs for gundam kits???
  23. Skip, Good question, it would be good to have some other sources for these wheels and tires. As a full set, the Orange Hauler is the only kit with the Orange Hauler wheels and tires. As mentioned above, the wheels and tires from some of the other Monogram kits will interchange - sometimes with just a little effort to ajdust fit for axle diameter. The Orange Hauler has white wall skinnies with inserts for the front tires, the rears are wider whitewall piecrust slicks. Front wheels are chrome reverse with a two blade knock off style spinners. Rears are the same but different size to fit the slicks. The wheels in the Little T are closest, but probably more difficult to find. Baby Moon hubcaps instead of the spinners The Blue Beetle uses the same front wheels (from slightlly different tooling) and whitewall skinnies on the front, but has five spoke American mags on the rear. The restored Blue Bandito issue has newly tooled wheels and tires. (Monogram tooled new sprues for the wheels and tires - great idea because nothing was lost from the other recent issues of the Model A pickup) Front tires are slightly larger diameter. The Blue Bandito does have good copies of the two blade spinners. It may be easiest to put a post over in the parts wanted section. Hope this helps Steve
  24. don't see where you are coming from JB I've always found the information in Dave's posts to be interesting, accurate, and reliable.
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