Muncie

Jesse is on to something... hope you all noticed that the Roofer's Toy has a longer wheelbase and the body is more aero than the Revell '57 Chevy Pro Sportsman... Pro Mod started as an exhibition class with a few 1955 and 1957 Chevy's with real Chevy steel bodies on real Chevy frames - kind of an outlaw run what you brung deal. Carburetors and gasoline, but lots of cubic inches. As it evolved into a real racing class, later model cars with tube frames and plastic bodies started showing up. To be competitive, the shoe-box Chevies also started changing. Somebody figured out a modified McEwen funny car body or something similar would work realty well... put some doors on it, open up the front end - yep, that'll work - and then things have changed from there... The Revell sportsman kit represents something that is somewhere between the early stock bodied cars and the aero bodies Like Roofer's Toy that came later - Don't get me wrong, the early cars are still cool - saw the Ron Harding Movers stock bodied '57 run 7.35 @ 192 MPH at SIR - beyond impressive. If your looking for a Top Sportsman 1957 Chevrolet, the Revell kit is the way to go - If you want the later, aero 1957 Chevrolet, (without having the kits in hand to confirm) it looks like the McEwen funny car body on a lengthened Revell Pro Sportsman chassis would be a good place to start.

very nice - can still remember the radio jingle for the local Dodge dealer Come see the good guys in the white hats at Dodge City 5050 southeast eighty-second avenue.

one of my favorite funny cars - well done

Hey Curt, I can't see it in the picture, - is it still called Dull Aluminum? I haven't been able to find it around here, It has been my go to for years and also works as a good base under the Testors metallizers Thanks, Steve Sounds like I need to check out the other suggestions as well.

more info here bout the sport with videos - http://www.tethercars.com/ These are pretty serious collectibles now

appears to be a tether car racer...

good ideas already in this thread - thinking out loud... small block Chevy - the current kit, even the Rat Roaster, requires quite a bit of work to fit a small block Chev with a hood and inside exhaust. The engine mounts on the frame are in the wrong place and interfere with the exhaust manifolds. A couple of intake manifold choices to make things more interesting, maybe choice of 4-speed or automatic transmission.... (friendly engine mounts for engine swaps would be an alternative) - if this one gets a small bock Chevy, Revell will be thinking ahead with something else for the next one... rear leaf spring with a quick change, a more modern tubular or traditional hot rod X center crossmember, bench seat interior, dropped beam front axle Revell has some great tires in their new kits like the '29 - so would like to see another wheel choice A brake master cylinder - edit - clarification... chassis mounted - edit again - found it on the chassis in the highboy roadster and the five window coupe, no master cylinder in the rat roaster - guess I've been working on too many AMT '32 fords... Continue with excellent parts interchangeability with the current kits as much as possible - I have favorite parts from from each of Revell's '32 kits and like to pick and choose. Going with an old traditional style, an update to current hot rod style, or a different level of kit detail would differentiate the new kit form what Revell already has already available

Even with the internet, this is not as easy as it looks - and I kind of thought I knew what to look and spent a half an hour with no luck. Your best bet may be to find an online library of truck brochures if something like that exists. for Freightliner COE it would be "frontal air intake with Farr Dyna-cell" and other search variations - If you have another brand of truck in mind or a cylindrical air cleaner, that will change.

you might want to check for Time Machine resin here - If Ebay and PayPal have some protections for the buyer it may be a better way to go.

haven't read every post or opinion... (but will probably wish I had...) The seller who parts out a kit (hopefully one already started or missing parts, but if not that's OK) makes five people happy, that's five projects that can be finished - the seller who sells the kit only makes one person happy. Price is what a buyer and seller agree - so no blame

Seee, I told you life was good, I got a box today with an Olds body, some tuck n roll, some cool seats and more wheels than I could count Great stuff, excellent service, and thanks for the tip on mounting the interior trim parts

good information already here's a couple of soldering tips - I've used a 40 watt soldering iron for some slot car chassis - with practice it's easier than it looks and you can amaze your friends A paste type flux may be easier to use than a liquid - it will stay where you put it. Apply the flux where you want the solder. Heat the metal that you are soldering. Melt the solder on the metal, not the soldering iron. The metal needs to be hot for the solder to flow into the joint and stick. The solder flows toward heat and will flow onto/into the joint. I tend to not fishmouth (trim the ends to match the next part) so there is some space for the solder. A close fit doesn't have much strength. Experience is the best guide for how tight the parts need to fit. Some connections my need to be drilled and pinned for alignment during soldering. Some fluxes come off with a bit of hot water and a stiff brush or steel wool - no drama There are some good articles on soldering in the new Slot Cars Magazine - three issue are out there now. The usual cautions about acid, burning acid holes in clothing (or skin), heat, hot metal, being careful not to burn flesh and that sort of thing apply.

stock '55 Chevy sedan (post) roof is two inches taller than the hardtop... but the Monogram Street Machine Roof is something else I also recommend the AMT, best to glue the hood in, reinforce the seam, and let it set before cutting the fenders loose yeah, I want to see this project! The skinny and wide American racing 200S wheels used to be easy, both Replica and Modelhaus sold them but I didn't see them in their current catalogs.

that's interesting - which is another way of saying that I have no idea... is this on a North American truck? what year? The size of the ram leads me to believe that it is air assist and not hydraulic - but still need a control valve unless it is integral with the ram

If you're into that sort of thing, more detail really adds to the look of nearly any model - adding detail takes experience - trailer air and electrical lines are obvious if they are missing and easy to add - chassis and engine detail can come later The Bendix air brake Handbook is an excellent reference for the air brake chassis plumbing - http://truckpartsetc.com/sales/PDFs/Bendix/extra/Bendix_AirBrakeHandbook.pdf I may edit this post if I can find an older revision of the Handbook with the correct, pre-1975 single air brake system for most AMT truck kits...

good plan - AMT kit with KJ's wheels, you'll have a great truck model - hope you show your work here

Good looking Satellite This is one that I'm going to have to watch! thanks Greg

Spoke wheels are appropriate for most of the AMT kits because they are based on trucks manufactured in the early 1970's - really just came down to fleet preference. Six spoke wheels are used for the heavier weight ratings and heavier duty vocational applications. You've probably noticed from the pictures that the spoke section of the wheel assembly is actually the hub with the wheel bearings and that the brake drum bolts to the inboard side of the hub. Back in the way back machine, disc wheels were also kind of the same thing with the drum mounted inside of the flange on the hub. In the late 70's, truck manufacturer's started offering optional "outboard mounted" drums - available only with disc wheels. The drum is mounted outboard of the flange on the hub. It pretty quickly became the popular wheel end system because the drum could be removed without touching the hub and bearings to change brake linings. Disc wheels now are limited to applications where they are absolutely required (can't think of one) or where the owner prefers them.

second those opinions - great guy to deal with and excellent parts more here on Ed's Drastic Plastic Fotki site - http://public.fotki.com/drasticplasticsmcc/member_dealer_directory/drag-city-casting-/ use the email address in the first post to contact him.

kinda hated to dump an 18 minute video on you guys, but I couldn't figure out how to describe it either - I'm glad the video helped

wow! - lots of fuel system information everything from linkage parts and fittings to complete systems - great deference, thanks

arrrgh, Messed up and wrong link for the beadlock wheels - try this - http://dragrace.academy/beadlock-wheel-mounting-and-tire-selection/ with all this information I fell like I could change tires for John Force's crew... well, maybe not

that looks great - I enjoy seeing the Nascars that you've been buiding - obvioulsy you've done a lot of work here and this is not the Polar Lights kit. Please tell us more

good questions....I was also curious about beadlocks - I talked to a guy at a car show a couple of years ago who had beadlocks on his prostreet Camaro - he said he mounted the slicks in his living room - after watching this video, it is doable. more here - Prior to beadlock wheels in drag racing, the funny car and top fuel classes used an inner liner to secure the slick to the rim and prevent the wheel from turning in the tire. Goodyear even had a trick single valve - turn it one way to inflate the inner liner, turn it the other way to fill the tire more on current inner liner here -http://dragrace.academy/how-to-mount-a-liner-tire/

was working on a reply and I'm going the same direction as Bill - the clear coat was applied too heavy (especially for one coat) and softened the silver - then the metallic started to drift and went crazy. For clear, but colors as well - best to start out with a mist coat, very light so it can tack up a bit - the first coat doesn't even need to cover the paint underneath - then follow with wet coats (but not drowning) that will flow out as it dries. Most good paint jobs came after some experience - for me, luck can still be a big factor.