Muncie

all of the above...

not a pro - just anecdotal info on a couple of times that it didn't work out, Clear is not the problem - magnesium is. example one - TJ had a set of large and larger magnesium Halibrands for his Corvette - sandblasted the wheels to take them to the powder coaters for clear coat. The wheels started to grow hair before he could get them to the powder coaters the next day - ended up going with gray. example two - talked to my friend Roger at a local swap meet - he had a beautiful set of clear coated polished vintage Halibrands in his booth - The wheels had some time on them after they were powder coated - they were turning black under the clear. Not sure how it's done on restorations...

Great idea - simple to do - great results Can't tell you how long and how many brain cells I've used trying to figure out how to make hoses. I'm going to use this

In the 60's, Dad always ordered his cars - pretty basic stuff, but always with a radio. However, he never ordered the outside mirror. The mirrors were $7 from the Dodge factory, but only $3 at the local hardware store. It kind of bothered him when the federal safety regulations changed and he couldn't get a car without the mirror.

Now there is a guy with a plan - thought out and could be possible. not only would it be a kit for the model car builders, but the movie collectors would be on board as well, Could even consider going to a snap kit, common chassis deal so a novice could assemble it

Thanks Tim, Great kit review and history Saw this kit at the LHS and remembered how bad the flash and chrome was in the 90's issue ssp kit. The new kit looks excellant Also appreciate the tip about narrowing the hull. It looks better to me. Now I'm interested in building one of these. Steve

Just a thin Dremel abrasive wheel - like the video but different the tubing does get hot.. real hot don't use the flat side of the wheel to smooth the end of the tubing - it will wear and can break the cutting disc. like most power cutting tools, it's something that requires some thoughts about safety... works good to cut steel hobby shop wire/rod as well.

uhhhh, it's a 36 Ford (round body line below the rumble seat lid) - guessing AMT from the gray under the blue - but haven't pulled a kit to confirm AMT or Monogram Agree, many difficult to find parts in here

yeah, knew it was a '32 - but it looks soo good!

D or E - If D or E were unpainted, it would still be D or E

interesting - brings back some memories There was a small HP shop in the service area at the gas station on the corner in 1969. The owner ran a 1968 SS/DA Nova. At that time it was raced every weekend in the racing season. It did pretty well locally if I recall. Yellow, all lettered up, and Cragars - looked good.

Grandmaster it's hard to believe that there could be list where I would pick Hemispere number 6...

In-N-Out - double double animal style with grilled onions - the closest one is 400 miles away... and I've considered making the trip just for lunch... more places in LA - Brookhurst Hobbies - imported model products from around the world - perhaps somebody can add some details - memory is that it was very big into military model building. I didn't/couldn't spend much time on the trip that I was there. Doesn't look like much from outside but impressive inside. Coast Air Brush - be prepared to be overwhelmed. House of Kolors in small sizes, airbrushes (of course), templates, books, magazines, DVDs, tape, sandpaper, pin striper supplies, classes, events...They are set-up for the professional air brush artists so it's pro everything, Very helpful and knowledgeable staff.

O yeah, I agree - Autobooks is a fraction of what it was in the old location and it used to be a much nicer place - but no stores like that around here. The old location was also just a few steps from that great lunch place - find a good car book, get a sandwich, eat and read outside. Some days, life is like it's supposed to be. Pegasus has also lost the focus that it had on model cars - gone more toward RC - used to have a lot of aftermarket that is mostly gone now - used to have lots of Replicas Maryland parts - not much left. Still a lot of kits but mostly current stuff. - but what the heck, it's in the neighborohood near the track. It is big and it's amazing to see how many things they have in the RC and railroad departments. i'm looking forwrd to hearing about more LA shops in this thread. It is a big place and there must be a lot of local shops.

Lots to see in LA/Southern California - big place so everything is really spread out I will agree - Burbank House of Hobbies is small but a good shop with a great selection of hobby tools. Autobooks-Aerobooks in Burbank has a huge selection of books and magazines - but paper is heavy to travel with. New owner was kind of grumpy the day that I was there but not difficult to put up with. Consider checking out some other places - My go-to is the Justice Brothers Museum. It is at their offices so it's close to the track and open early enough to see before the race track opens - three rooms/buidings of everything, open wheel, Indy, drag, hot rods... lots of midgets racers with history because that is where they started - nice people but it's the offices so they are trying to do their day jobs. -- free -- Just ring the bell by the door to get buzzed in. Enjoy a great trip

Snake's method works! and no high speed spinning parts that can grab a blade... Don't need that story in the "you must be a model builder if..." topic A variation is to subsitiute a block of the proper thickness in place of the book. - The block just needs to be the right thickness and large enough to give a stable suport for the saw. It is very easy to control the depth and make a consistent groove. This method can even be used to section a tire to narrow the width. Works great with the rubber tires like Tamiya

OK, I'll take a shot at it... The instructions show the torsion bar lever locating on the radius rod mount on the axle - center up the axle on the chassis and it should line up where it is supposed to go. That will also move the end of the steering arm outbaord of the frame where it will connect to the drag link

Grandmaster all I'm going to say...

At this point, Revell has to be checking to see if any NASCAR noise turns into sales numbers. No sales, they tried and no interest.. Good sales, hope they do some more. Makes sense to me. Yeh, I'm a Chevy fan, but I'll pick up a couple of the Penske Fords... (did I say that out loud?) With today's NASCAR, I bet the chassis will fit under that resin Chevrolet SS resin body real nice. Best case is that a little interest in the NASCAR kits will get Revell thinking about some new drag racers - Pro Mod, Pro Stock, Funny Car - or - just as cool, some ALMS kits (say Corvette!)

Wow! That's it! Ron - very nicely done

Gotta love that black wagon - Can remember when big block full size Chevy wagons with all the toys were darn near required for drag race tow vehicles - with a four speed for when your street car also needed to be cool.. or had to deal with the local kid in a Mustang... Later with young family, had a '67 Caprice wagon with a 325 horse 396 - black with wood and gold inside. 14 mpg, regular gas. great go to the beach car - could be going 40 on the two lane hwy behind some gutless 4-cylinder and when the opportunity to pass.. stand on it move left and it would be at 70mph before it got even to their back bumper with no drama. Learned that it's way easier to find parts if it had been a Camaro... Of course when I sold it, the parts I needed to fix the automatic AC showed up...

Mike, if you're interested, shave the emblem off the rear lift gate as well - I'll bring you better one - the chome trunk emblem from Monogram's '55 Chevy Badman. let me know. - or add the V below the molded in emblem. Good to see your progress on this - you're building the model I want to build. Chevy had two styles of emblems for 1955, 1956, and 1957 passenger cars - front and rear The 6 cylinder cars had a large crest - about 14" long The V-8 cars had a smaller crest above a large V The body you have has the smaller 8 cylinder crest without the V - probably to make it look more like a standard 6 cylinder car with the 235 six which would be common in a stock sedan delivery.

Angel, great looking truck - the lift axle really adds to it - good work

I kind of generalized and simplified a bit... However, given the shorter wheelbase, which puts the lift axle closer to the steer (front) axle, the steerable lift axle is appropriate to reduce tire scrub - better steering control and longer tire life. It could be non-steerable, but the driver would have to lift the axle to make a tight turn. BTW that's a great looking truck. Let's add someting about fifthwheel position - The fifthwheel position needs to be forward of the center of the drive axles to ditribute weight forward onto the lfit axle.

steerable - yes and no... The example in the picture steers by just tracking where the rubber meets the road and is not connected to the steering gear or the front axle. A steerable lift axle is generally located about midway in the wheelbase. The steerable function helps with tire wear and allows the truck to turn easier. not steerable - If the lift axle is located just ahead of the drive axles it would be a pusher axle - they are not steerable - X_______LDD same deal, not steerable if it's a tag axle aft of the drive axles - X_______DDL yes, steerable - If the lift axle is located further forward, about midway in the wheelbase - X____L____DD - this would be a steerable lfit axle