Muncie

talk about rare...3408 with a brakesaver has to be way up there on the list for a highway truck. The brakesaver is a hydraulic retarder. It adds about 4 inches to the flywheel housing. Hoses, fittings, oil cooler for the retarder, things like that, larger radiator. If I remember right (know I don't remember it all) it was both a switch to enable the brakesaver and a hand valve to activate it on the dash. Clutch and brake switches to turn it off. With all that complexity, it was very expensive so somebody had to really want one. should be some info and images out there an the internet

I would like to see the 1956 Chevrolet 210 Handyman two door wagon. Although when I say two door wagon most people think "Nomad?", there are differences between the Nomad and the Handyman Revell already has the chassis in the Nomad and a some of the design work for the Del Ray could be carried over. Still more to do because it would take a full body and interior. I could see the kit coming with solid panels for the side windows to do the sedan delivery so Revell could get more out of the kit.. Yeah I know sedan deliveries had the shorter 150 side trim but many sedan deliveries have been modified with the 210 trim. For model builders, easier to sand the trim off if you want a 150 than to add it.

the competition Tee body also fits the Fiat frame in the AMT double dragster kit. All of the chassis parts to make the conversion are in the Tee body parts pack. No cut and paste required.

JB Weld makes a number of different products and several types of epoxy putty. Unfortuntely, JB Weld doesn't seem to show instructions ont their web site but there are youtube videos on the web. Not sure which one you are using... so this may not apply Some types of epoxy putty can be worked with water - no need to check the calendar, it's not April 1 - but check the instructions on the package Milliput, Plumbers A+B and others can be worked with water and will even cure underwater. Just have a small disposable cup of room temerature water at you work area. Dip your fingers in the water to mix the epoxy putty. Apply it to a prefearably dry surface to get it to stick. The putty can be worked and molded with a wet fingertip. You want more than damp but not submerged. It's also a lot easier to mold the putty before it cures than to sand it down after it dries. The water keeps the epoxy from sticking to your fingers - some will stick of course but not like working with it dry.

Pictures of a funny car catch tank in its natural environment are rare. Most available funny car pictures are in competition or with the body down. Any pictures with the body up are just the front of the chassis with the nitro hemi... The catch tanks will be specific to a certain car or time period. Here are some places that may be useful for finding vintage funny car tech Vintage funny car restorations - here's one - http://www.ramchargersfunnycar.com/index.html The forums on the classic funny car board - http://classicfunnycarboard.com/ search terms - funny car catch tank, puke tank

sorry Michael, I don't have picture or a link. The catch tank really varies with the vintage of the car. The Monogram funny car kits from the mid '80's have a good tank behind the roll cage for what was used then - the tanks have become larger as time and engine technology have progressed. Current top fuel cars have a tnk that looks like a five gallon paint bucket near the rear axle - plenty of room for a Jegs or Summit decal...

I like these threads because the more we understand about what we are building, the better and more interesting our models will be - great stuff here. It's part of the crankcase ventilation system - the hose connects to the valve cover - there are some baffles that kind of separate oil from crankcase vapors in the piece on the valve cover where the hose attaches - the other end connects to the upper frame rail which is a convenient piece of tubing to carry what is left to a large vented tank aft of the roll cage on a funny car, aft of the engine on a dragster. No pump As mentioned above, crankcase pressure on a supercharged nitro hemi is enough to ventilate the engine to the tank. I imagine between round maintenance includes draining and cleaning the tank. The hoses usually have some sort of quick connector so parts can be disconnected easily for service. Pumps are used on normally aspirated drag racing engines to create a vacuum in the crankcase. Lower crankcase pressure means less internal resistance on the bottom of the pistons - lower pumping losses equals more horsepower.

Plastic would be good. I have less trouble or hassle building with plastic. Just got the Jimmy Flintsone roadster - good loooking body with track nose hood - will require minimal clean-up - recommended yes. Have one of Art's All American Models resin bodies trimmed for '32 frame in the dormant project archive. It really shows Art's attention to accurate detail.

Front engine Dragster Torsion Assembly Category: Chassis Components Part Number(s): 35300 This torsion assembly is a re-production as used in the ‘60’s front motor dragsters. It features improvements to the bearings inside the arms and new provision for lubrication. The unit dimensionally is 20” center to center of the arms. The arms are 6-3/8” from the housing center to the center of the 3/8” diameter axle mount holes. The housing tube is 1-3/8” O. D. x .058 wall 4130 tubing. The torsion bar is a ½” hex heat-treated alloy steel with the center undercut. The arms are adjustable by means if a 7/8-48-tooth serration button that press fits to the arm. A nylon washer acts as a friction-dampening device. what you see here is from the Mark Williams Enerprises web site - plenty more chassis information there The torsion bar is a steel bar inside the outer tubing. As the suspesion travels, the arms rotate and twist the torsion bar. The torsion bar is held stationary in the center so that it does not rotate in the housing. About as basic (and as light) as you can get.

all of the above...

not a pro - just anecdotal info on a couple of times that it didn't work out, Clear is not the problem - magnesium is. example one - TJ had a set of large and larger magnesium Halibrands for his Corvette - sandblasted the wheels to take them to the powder coaters for clear coat. The wheels started to grow hair before he could get them to the powder coaters the next day - ended up going with gray. example two - talked to my friend Roger at a local swap meet - he had a beautiful set of clear coated polished vintage Halibrands in his booth - The wheels had some time on them after they were powder coated - they were turning black under the clear. Not sure how it's done on restorations...

Great idea - simple to do - great results Can't tell you how long and how many brain cells I've used trying to figure out how to make hoses. I'm going to use this

In the 60's, Dad always ordered his cars - pretty basic stuff, but always with a radio. However, he never ordered the outside mirror. The mirrors were $7 from the Dodge factory, but only $3 at the local hardware store. It kind of bothered him when the federal safety regulations changed and he couldn't get a car without the mirror.

Now there is a guy with a plan - thought out and could be possible. not only would it be a kit for the model car builders, but the movie collectors would be on board as well, Could even consider going to a snap kit, common chassis deal so a novice could assemble it

Thanks Tim, Great kit review and history Saw this kit at the LHS and remembered how bad the flash and chrome was in the 90's issue ssp kit. The new kit looks excellant Also appreciate the tip about narrowing the hull. It looks better to me. Now I'm interested in building one of these. Steve

Just a thin Dremel abrasive wheel - like the video but different the tubing does get hot.. real hot don't use the flat side of the wheel to smooth the end of the tubing - it will wear and can break the cutting disc. like most power cutting tools, it's something that requires some thoughts about safety... works good to cut steel hobby shop wire/rod as well.

uhhhh, it's a 36 Ford (round body line below the rumble seat lid) - guessing AMT from the gray under the blue - but haven't pulled a kit to confirm AMT or Monogram Agree, many difficult to find parts in here

yeah, knew it was a '32 - but it looks soo good!

D or E - If D or E were unpainted, it would still be D or E

interesting - brings back some memories There was a small HP shop in the service area at the gas station on the corner in 1969. The owner ran a 1968 SS/DA Nova. At that time it was raced every weekend in the racing season. It did pretty well locally if I recall. Yellow, all lettered up, and Cragars - looked good.

Grandmaster it's hard to believe that there could be list where I would pick Hemispere number 6...

In-N-Out - double double animal style with grilled onions - the closest one is 400 miles away... and I've considered making the trip just for lunch... more places in LA - Brookhurst Hobbies - imported model products from around the world - perhaps somebody can add some details - memory is that it was very big into military model building. I didn't/couldn't spend much time on the trip that I was there. Doesn't look like much from outside but impressive inside. Coast Air Brush - be prepared to be overwhelmed. House of Kolors in small sizes, airbrushes (of course), templates, books, magazines, DVDs, tape, sandpaper, pin striper supplies, classes, events...They are set-up for the professional air brush artists so it's pro everything, Very helpful and knowledgeable staff.

O yeah, I agree - Autobooks is a fraction of what it was in the old location and it used to be a much nicer place - but no stores like that around here. The old location was also just a few steps from that great lunch place - find a good car book, get a sandwich, eat and read outside. Some days, life is like it's supposed to be. Pegasus has also lost the focus that it had on model cars - gone more toward RC - used to have a lot of aftermarket that is mostly gone now - used to have lots of Replicas Maryland parts - not much left. Still a lot of kits but mostly current stuff. - but what the heck, it's in the neighborohood near the track. It is big and it's amazing to see how many things they have in the RC and railroad departments. i'm looking forwrd to hearing about more LA shops in this thread. It is a big place and there must be a lot of local shops.

Lots to see in LA/Southern California - big place so everything is really spread out I will agree - Burbank House of Hobbies is small but a good shop with a great selection of hobby tools. Autobooks-Aerobooks in Burbank has a huge selection of books and magazines - but paper is heavy to travel with. New owner was kind of grumpy the day that I was there but not difficult to put up with. Consider checking out some other places - My go-to is the Justice Brothers Museum. It is at their offices so it's close to the track and open early enough to see before the race track opens - three rooms/buidings of everything, open wheel, Indy, drag, hot rods... lots of midgets racers with history because that is where they started - nice people but it's the offices so they are trying to do their day jobs. -- free -- Just ring the bell by the door to get buzzed in. Enjoy a great trip

Snake's method works! and no high speed spinning parts that can grab a blade... Don't need that story in the "you must be a model builder if..." topic A variation is to subsitiute a block of the proper thickness in place of the book. - The block just needs to be the right thickness and large enough to give a stable suport for the saw. It is very easy to control the depth and make a consistent groove. This method can even be used to section a tire to narrow the width. Works great with the rubber tires like Tamiya