Muncie

build them... and there is nothing that says they have to be built as Snake and Mongoose either this version is not that rare and not likely to increase in value - they can make more... basically, you got a great deal becaue it's two kits for $35

well, kind of thought not my problem.... But daughter in law doesn't like me and said it all goes in a dumpster so I'm working on another plan. Will be watching here for ideas and useful guidance.

Let me think about that one... If he has too many irons in the fire to fill his orders, why is he trying to operate another business... I guess gave up too early after mailing and calling him for over a year and a half. Never got what I paid for and that was over two years ago. Yeah, I heard the lost in the mail story several times as well, but my money order got there OK Glad you got your parts, there are others out there that never will.

Love - it, very cleanly done have a couple in the queue - thanks for the how-to

dusting off the crystall ball with a little help from Revell's Deuce history... full hood 28-29 chopped coupe (w/option for top insert or filled top) Guide headlamps Deuce grille shell under chassis exhaust system your favorite hot rod engine (the Buick works for me) bomber seats show rod grille shell? another set of wheels salt flat tonneau and Bonneville equipment Just wishing and total speculation here...

Chuck, you gave it one day! Your posts do remind people that you are still out there and making new products... Please add a link to your website in your signature or profile - it wll make it easier to see the other decals that you offer.

That mold line on the edge of the fender should go away - it s a smooth radius on that part of the fender. While you're there, soften up the peak on the top of the fender - it's a little too high and sharp. Leave a lttle of the peak on the top of the fender - it is not a uniform radius like the '55. Revell did a btter job on the 1956 Del Ray. On the 1:1, it is almost not noticable unless you look for it, It takes just a little sanding to make it look a lot better.

'29 on '32 rails - yep, had to check the calendar - it's not April 1 I'll be bugging every hobby shop in town.

paint it all - if I don't, the spot that I didn't paint will be something visible for sure... (should that be posted in you must be a model builder if ...) I used to leave the sides of the interior tub and the inside of the body bare - sure enough could see down thru the window into the gap between the body and interior to see unpainted/ plastic and overspray - that's a difficult spot to touch up later.

OK, remember i like the lazy solution... and sometimes lack of patience - just some simple ideas i remove the wipers and rescribe the windshield molding. i just leave the remaining cowl vent openinings without scribing in the slots where the wipers were - doesn't look too bad. On a gasser, minor cutomizing is permitted if it does not affect performance - so I'd probably sand the vents down below the surface so they don't reappear and fill them in completly.

That old printer enclosure looks like a good spray booth It might be OK to store the compressor in the spray booth cabinent when you are not using it - but it would work better if it wasn't running so close to where you are painting. If the compressor is small enough to fit inside the spary booth, then I'm guessing that it does not have a storage tank. If that's the case, it's good to have a length of hose - about 10 feet may be good - to absorb and even out the pulsation in the air line from the compressor. Good smoth air flow is a requirement. It's also good to keep the compressor out of the area to avoid contamination or stirring up the air and dirt around the spary booth - It's one more thng that can wreck a piant job.

Very cool! - looks ready to make a run - I appreciate the extra effort that you made to use the rule book. Yeah, I hope you get to move SpeedWeek off the bucket list but beware, there is no known cure for salt fever!

April 18, 2015, 9AM-4PM 25th Annual - Pacific NW Model Car Fest New Location! Red Lion Inn at the Quay, 100 Clumbia Street, Vancouver WA Info - http://www.sabanw.com/ More Northwest model car events at - http://www.sabanw.com/2015-pnw-model-events/ - (more to be added)

Thanks Bill - i used this yeserday

I like LDO's idea - A turned ring would be a precise fixture. I'm a litle lazier and cruder. I've bent a ring out of .030 brass stock so I can slide it over the part to clear the lip on rim. Simply bent around anthing round about the right size. It just has to be close to round and fit under the jaws of the chuck. Even cruder, I've just used pieces of thicker brass stock under each of the three jaws. The brass protects the aluminum of the part.

Exactly - None close - but have three or four on my path for running errands - Each is unique and it changes beween stops. Never know what I'll find or not.

Thanks for the tips - should be useful for other paints as well. I think you fixed the problem I had with One Shot... My only expereience with spraying one shot was with some advice from a local club member. He used Darby's reducer to thin the One Shot for spraying and he mentioned that it atomizes so finely that the overspray goes everywhere - his paint booth was in the laundry room and red overspray turned all the whites pink. The results on the model were incredible - smooth with very high gloss. So I tried it - in the garage... Thirty years and two moves later I still find traces of yellow One Shot overspray. It stayed wet with the Darby's reducer so it stuck everywhere it landed. I may have to try it again - your instruction to spray with lacquer thinner should eliminate a lot of the oversary problems.

iinboard and outboard drums - It's the mounting location on the hub flange. Inboard drums are mounted on the inboad side of the hub flange so the hub and bearings have to be disassembled to change brake linings. They probably disappeard in the '80's. Outboard drums are mounted on the outboard side of the hub flange and can be removed by just sliding them off the wheel studs - makes life easier. Wouldn't be noticeable on a model truck but cool that somebody has heard of them. Typical drum size is 15X4 front, 16-1/2x7 rear(?memory test) - thats the size of the surface that contacts the brake lining. front brakes don't have the dual chambers - no parking brakes on the front axle. Most of the AMT kits were originally made before Federal regulations required front brakes. The instruction sheet that you show is typical and front brakes could be sourced from any kit of the same vintage with front brakes. The truck manufacurers all used similar pieces from the available brake manufacturer suppliers. Just stay away from the wedge brakes on the White Frieghtliners. CF was about the only fleet that I can remember that ran them.

just a heads-up.. it may take two kits (or a trade here) to get good wheels. The kit has two good wheels and two that have an offset at the parting line in the mold

Wouldn't it be cool if the T came with Little T and SweeTee parts in the same kit and the Little Deuce and Son of Ford also came in the same kit? Would realy like to see stock hood sides in the Monogram Deuce!

Well done! That shows why we want this back with the original Little T parts....

update - Also received my 3 year old order today - good to see Jeff is getting these taken care of - no issues with the quality of the product

not a problem - just giving a heads-up to those without paypal who are thinking about dealing with him

from the remaiining pieces of the '28 Lincoln that I built in my youth... tire OD - 1.60" (40") whitewall insert OD - 1.20" (30") Tire/whitewal ID 0.965 (24" measured - not sure what the 1:1 wheel size is) 0.275 wide dual spares so 6 tires with wheels in the kit - no funky plastic spares or spare tire covers They are a bit narrower and different than the tires in the '32 Chrysler

From what's been posted here, it looks like some of us are still waitng for orders - mine back to 2011... Purchasing through Ebay may offer some protection but I won't send him another dime.