Muncie

sorry Tom, posted here and I do have firsthand experience - as posted in the other thread - it sucks - just wanted people to know so they have the information before they send money. Keep in mind, Randy Frost at Perry's is the person that has created his reputation, not the people that have posted. agreed - always had first class service from Replicas and Modelhaus -several times and a long time customer. OK, I counted to ten and deleted the editorial comments...

Check out the 351 in the 1980's NASCAR kits- AMT for 1/25, Monogram for 1/24 - good detail, might be a place to start. the old NASCAR kits are still out there and reasonably priced parts sources.

might want to read this first... http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/topic/18693-perrys-resin/?page=1

Tom, thank you for the inspiration - I have a couple of tootsietoy cars that I have been "saving" from my much younger days - ahhh the memories... it would be way cooler and worth a lot more to paint them bright and new for the granddaughter

Tim, great looking model A - great choice of colors and very clean - Add my thanks to the list, it's good to see a straight out of the box build and review. Steve

there may be some dimensions here ---- http://protech.net/

just finished getting exhuast port centerline dimensions from the Sanderson headers on the nailhead in Joe's 1928 model A sport coupe - real Henry steel and GM iron. He pulled the 401 out of a stock 1965 Buick. Headers were on the work bench so real easy to measure port spacing with a Stanley tape. Ports one to two - 4-1/2", ports two to three - 8-1/4", ports one to four 17-1/4" Plastic Nailheads - with dial caliper and calibrated eyeball - please allow some tolerance in these measurements - measuring points aren't precise on the plastic parts. Revell Parts Pack/Ivo Showboat - one to two - 0.155 (3-7/8"), two to three - 0.3303 (8-1/4"), one to four 0.670" (16-3/4") Revell 1929 Model A headers- one to two - 0.165 (4-1/8"), two to three - 0.380 (9-1/2"), one to four - 0.710 (17-3/4") Revell 1929 Model A Buick cylinder heads - same as the headers

Add my thanks to Tim for the excellent review and photos. There are some unique features engineered into this kit that I haven't seen before. Revell added some material to the parts on the chrome trees so the sprue attaching points won't be visible when the model is built - It will take a bit of clever trimming, but there won't be any white spots showing or silver touch-ups required - way cool. An example is the air cleaners which have the sprue attached on the bottom, not the edge There are a lot of extra little disposable tabs molded on many of the parts with tiny details - overall, the detail is a lot finer and the tabs allow plastic to fill the molds so the detail is not lost. Revell has engineered carburetors that look like a real carb and not just a plastic blob. Revell has really upped the quality of the detail on this kit. I didn't find any sink marks to fill. Not an expert on injection molding but it looks like all of the ejection pins (or at least the ones I found) are on the sprue - not on the parts. The parts trees are set up in logical groups - it looks like modular packaging which is looking forward to future kits - looks like more are on the way Good fit on all of the parts that I've done test fits.

Thanks Steve I appreciate the information - have some projects with parts that need to be sent in... Steve

Steve, have you had chrome parts replated? recommendation? contact info? Thanks, Steve

can only speak to what has worked, or hasn't worked, when I tried it - Believe me I was surprised it is possible to shine up the old chrome and not take the chrome off the parts. Kind of best to go into it with the idea that the parts will have to be replated anyway. Liquid automotive cleaner wax - love it on some things because it has a very mild polish/abrasive - probably about the mildest abrasive available - it worked well on model master enamel which is very soft - but even with light pressure, it went through the chrome The Treatment model car wax - was expecting the same result - subject was the moon hubcaps on an old early issue AMT double Tee kit- had minor loss of shine but no scratches - they cleaned up like new with a couple of light passes - stopped when I got shine but before damaging the chrome. What you are polishing with can also be important - the abrasiveness of paper towels varies from brand to brand. Micro fiber towels are safe. I have photographer friend who swears by very well used (but clean) baby diapers for his camera lenses, but he would never use a new piece of cloth because the new fibers can scratch the lens. hope there is something here that helps...

wow - been fortunate - so many good times where it just couldn't get better.... Bonneville, sunrise, speed week... some have already filled in the story with just three words Waiting at the end of the pavement (which is five miles out on the salt) with the racers and spectators until they open the salt at 7AM. When that time comes, there are still five miles to go on the salt to the pits - some years it's single file and 20 MPH - other years, the salt is good and it's 65 MPH and cars/haulers spread out 400 feet wide. Been before and you know it's going to get better. At the pits, 35 degrees cool but you know it will be over 100 in the afternoon - the sun is starting to come up - biggest most colorful sunrise any place - can't be described and photos don't even get close - quiet and reverent with expectations for the day... then the quiet breaks with the perfect background sound as the sun rises when the first big V-8 fires for it's warm-up in the cool, quiet, sunrise morning light...

I agree with everyone in the last few posts... If someone really gets fussy, there are many other ways to tell a vintage AFB from a new one. have a pair of Carter Comp series AFB's on the shelf - bought them new in '74 and finally getting close to putting them on something.. but now I'm kind of afraid to use them because the ethanol content in the local gasoline won't play nice with that old aluminum. I can see why the Edelbrock carbs are so popular

looks like something based on the Accel Turbo-sonic kit with some pieces missing. Accel used a divided plenum box under the carb - the top part directed fuel /air from the carb to the turbo and the bottom part took turbocharged air/fuel into the manifold. Don't remember how it worked but the plenum divider would open and close to go from normally aspirated to turbocharged. They were around for a couple of years when aftermarket turbochrger kits were being figured out in the late 70's - haven't heard much about them since... might be a reason for that

True - and also true that the drawing was an original Foose design that he did for himself many years before the truck was built. gotta have the kit because it's a cool truck! - everything that I don't like about '56 Ford pickups and a lot of things that I didn't know about have been fixed on Chip Foose's truck.

this is going to be one of those ask 20 different model builders - get 30 different answers - good news is what you have looks restorable Remember trying toothpaste in my youth - turns out Mom always got the kind with heavy abrasive - just fogged up the plastic. Still use the same toothapste and wonder why I have any teeth - Now it would be a good start for finer polishes on a plastic windshield. I've had good luck with the Flex-i-file #3210 Triple-Grit polisher/finisher stick from the local hobby shop with a final polish using Mequiar's cleaner wax. It seems to work best for a very mild mid abrasive. Take it slow - I've cracked the glass with too much pressure on it.

talk about rare...3408 with a brakesaver has to be way up there on the list for a highway truck. The brakesaver is a hydraulic retarder. It adds about 4 inches to the flywheel housing. Hoses, fittings, oil cooler for the retarder, things like that, larger radiator. If I remember right (know I don't remember it all) it was both a switch to enable the brakesaver and a hand valve to activate it on the dash. Clutch and brake switches to turn it off. With all that complexity, it was very expensive so somebody had to really want one. should be some info and images out there an the internet

I would like to see the 1956 Chevrolet 210 Handyman two door wagon. Although when I say two door wagon most people think "Nomad?", there are differences between the Nomad and the Handyman Revell already has the chassis in the Nomad and a some of the design work for the Del Ray could be carried over. Still more to do because it would take a full body and interior. I could see the kit coming with solid panels for the side windows to do the sedan delivery so Revell could get more out of the kit.. Yeah I know sedan deliveries had the shorter 150 side trim but many sedan deliveries have been modified with the 210 trim. For model builders, easier to sand the trim off if you want a 150 than to add it.

the competition Tee body also fits the Fiat frame in the AMT double dragster kit. All of the chassis parts to make the conversion are in the Tee body parts pack. No cut and paste required.

JB Weld makes a number of different products and several types of epoxy putty. Unfortuntely, JB Weld doesn't seem to show instructions ont their web site but there are youtube videos on the web. Not sure which one you are using... so this may not apply Some types of epoxy putty can be worked with water - no need to check the calendar, it's not April 1 - but check the instructions on the package Milliput, Plumbers A+B and others can be worked with water and will even cure underwater. Just have a small disposable cup of room temerature water at you work area. Dip your fingers in the water to mix the epoxy putty. Apply it to a prefearably dry surface to get it to stick. The putty can be worked and molded with a wet fingertip. You want more than damp but not submerged. It's also a lot easier to mold the putty before it cures than to sand it down after it dries. The water keeps the epoxy from sticking to your fingers - some will stick of course but not like working with it dry.

Pictures of a funny car catch tank in its natural environment are rare. Most available funny car pictures are in competition or with the body down. Any pictures with the body up are just the front of the chassis with the nitro hemi... The catch tanks will be specific to a certain car or time period. Here are some places that may be useful for finding vintage funny car tech Vintage funny car restorations - here's one - http://www.ramchargersfunnycar.com/index.html The forums on the classic funny car board - http://classicfunnycarboard.com/ search terms - funny car catch tank, puke tank

sorry Michael, I don't have picture or a link. The catch tank really varies with the vintage of the car. The Monogram funny car kits from the mid '80's have a good tank behind the roll cage for what was used then - the tanks have become larger as time and engine technology have progressed. Current top fuel cars have a tnk that looks like a five gallon paint bucket near the rear axle - plenty of room for a Jegs or Summit decal...

I like these threads because the more we understand about what we are building, the better and more interesting our models will be - great stuff here. It's part of the crankcase ventilation system - the hose connects to the valve cover - there are some baffles that kind of separate oil from crankcase vapors in the piece on the valve cover where the hose attaches - the other end connects to the upper frame rail which is a convenient piece of tubing to carry what is left to a large vented tank aft of the roll cage on a funny car, aft of the engine on a dragster. No pump As mentioned above, crankcase pressure on a supercharged nitro hemi is enough to ventilate the engine to the tank. I imagine between round maintenance includes draining and cleaning the tank. The hoses usually have some sort of quick connector so parts can be disconnected easily for service. Pumps are used on normally aspirated drag racing engines to create a vacuum in the crankcase. Lower crankcase pressure means less internal resistance on the bottom of the pistons - lower pumping losses equals more horsepower.

Plastic would be good. I have less trouble or hassle building with plastic. Just got the Jimmy Flintsone roadster - good loooking body with track nose hood - will require minimal clean-up - recommended yes. Have one of Art's All American Models resin bodies trimmed for '32 frame in the dormant project archive. It really shows Art's attention to accurate detail.

Front engine Dragster Torsion Assembly Category: Chassis Components Part Number(s): 35300 This torsion assembly is a re-production as used in the ‘60’s front motor dragsters. It features improvements to the bearings inside the arms and new provision for lubrication. The unit dimensionally is 20” center to center of the arms. The arms are 6-3/8” from the housing center to the center of the 3/8” diameter axle mount holes. The housing tube is 1-3/8” O. D. x .058 wall 4130 tubing. The torsion bar is a ½” hex heat-treated alloy steel with the center undercut. The arms are adjustable by means if a 7/8-48-tooth serration button that press fits to the arm. A nylon washer acts as a friction-dampening device. what you see here is from the Mark Williams Enerprises web site - plenty more chassis information there The torsion bar is a steel bar inside the outer tubing. As the suspesion travels, the arms rotate and twist the torsion bar. The torsion bar is held stationary in the center so that it does not rotate in the housing. About as basic (and as light) as you can get.