Muncie

Tim, thanks for the tips on the roof - it looks good - I have to agree it captures the "look" correctly and that's what I would go for also. A C4 behind a flathead is perfectly acceptable - been around since the '80's when the flatheads started coming back- see Flat-O-Matic http://www.flat-o.com/carproducts/flatomatic.htm. They also have a kit for an S10 5-sped with a flathead. The finished model is in the way cool class for sure.

Round 2 is doing a great job on the reissues that I've seen, I like them and I'm not looking for a high level of detail when I buy one. It is unlikely that the kit manufacturers in the 60's expected the product to last 50 years - but it's good that they have. Would any new kit last that long? With the resources that the kit manufacturers have available, more reissues in the current style and a couple of new kits would be good for me.

Mark, This is way cool and I really enjoyed your WIP. I had forgotten about these big Monte Carlos in NASCAR and learned a lot from your build thread. These cars are huge! The local museum has one in Petty colors so you got me thinking...

agreed - definitely a must see - I left wishing I had two days instead of two hours... first time thru was more like a chance to find out what to see on the next trip. great pics, thanks for the photo tour

Gerry, that brought back a lot of memories - thank you for the good trip through the time machine - lot more cars than my last stop there - it is in an old Montana state prison and used to be the original Towe Ford Museum.

I also noticed, you had a good lead, but didn't Revell have more then one GTO out there... I seem to remember the Monogram '69 in a Revell box... but I also think the Rochester tri-power has been in several other recent Revell kits that escape me at the moment. anyway, back to the topic

The Rochester 2 barrels are in the tri-power set in several recent Revell kits - the best GM 2 barrel out there in a kit - the Merc comes to mind and the 1959 Chevrolet as noted above, possibly the 66 GTO? - Da - da duh - drama note - they seem to be missing the base plate on the bottom of the carb unless you count the raised area on the manifold... easy enough the fabricate the missing base plate, but be aware

Quote - I'm building the chanelled version of the kit. I was surprised when I went to attach the interior floor on to the chassis. I thought the floor would sit flush with the frame rails. They do not. The parts look correct, yet the floor pan sits just slightly above the flame rails. Test fitting everything in to the body she still looks correct. Is this the way it should be? Or did I goof up and glue in the wrong center frame member? I suspect I used the right one because how the two pieces come together in the rear mounts too. The molded in rear mounts also make it impossible to mount the floor pan flush with the frame rails. R Scott, Yes,, that's the way the kit builds with the floor spaced above the frame rails...to me, the interior also looks a little shallow because the floorpan is too high in the body in my project on the bench, I cut the tops off the ladder bar mounts on the transmission crossmember flush with the top of the frame so the floor pan would sit on the frame. I added a small square of sheet plastic to box in the top of the ladder bar mounts and give the ladder bars something to attach to. The same modification could be made on the rear mounts but I just enlarged the hole in the floorpan so it fit over the pins on the chassis. These are one way to do it and "don't look too close" Engineering fixes. Now I will add a strip of material to the bottom of the interior panels. Once everything is flush with the top of the frame, it opens up possibilities for other Model A bodies... In the real world, the floorpan sits on the top of the frame rails with a piece webbing or strips of leather to separate the fame and body for noise isolation. It gets trickier because the model A floorpan is flat and the top of a '32 frame has a slight curve. Several solutions - one, cut a wood spacer, flat on top, curved on the bottom tapering to zero thickness on the ends. two, use the '32 floorpan in the Model A body. three, Brookville (and probably others) make a fabricated '32 hot rod frame with a flat top for the model A floorpan - or you can get your Brookville body with a '32 floorpan already installed. Hope this helps, S/P

There is a sort on the left of the screen after you hit new content where the list of topics should be - click the filters you want and should be good to go. I've fumbled fingered and errantly changed the preferences - yeah, right in front of me but took a while to find it...just had to reset.

that's good news! - remember reading your articles and glad you are back

of course, in real life, that two lane black top Chevy with the big block (even in Graffiti form) would have thoroughly wasted Milner's coupe. oh well.. still enjoyed the movie

nicely done, I'm a fan of the old AMT '32 Ford kits -

If you don't mind die cast, the Revell 1/25 die cast Graffiti coupe kit is the best one right out of the box... It's not a current kit, but shouldn't be difficult to find

Watch out for the height of the roof, The Monogram 1/2 kit is a BelAir hardtop - like a two door of the blue car in your reference pictures. The black and white is a sedan. The roof on a sedan is two inches taller than the hardtop. The BelAir four door hardtop is top of the line and would probably be too deluxe for a police department - but it would be cool!

now that's cool!

Good to have this elevated to the MRI stage. I share the anxiety about the machine - just had to turn the brain off for 20 minutes... So, did you look at the disc? The files should open with a program on your computer. Interesting stuff and you may find a new avatar.

not sure about the GMP sprint car kit - but have a couple of others. The GMP kits are basically un-assembled versions of their die-cast with multiple building options in the kit. So that means good detail, lots of stuff in the box, and fairly straight forward buildablility. Nice kits.

Frankly, I give thanks to those who post their experiences... after all, who are we protecting if we don't put the word out - the business that let us down, or the other model builders who are considering sending an order... not very well said, but makes the point.

yep, my bad back happened the year I decided to be a vegetable all winter - came home from a desk job and hit the couch... would have been no problem if I had stayed moderately active.

not a doc, but had some experience with a herniated disc problem - man, I know it hurts - walking should be one of the things that you should be able to do and shouldn't hurt as bad as sitting - I spent eight hours walking at a swap meet, but couldn't sit on the couch - P/T needs to focus on exercises to strengthen the core muscles that support the back - this even includes the lower abdominal muscles in front, not just back. Those muscles support the lower spine, not the other way around. Balancing on a large exercise ball forces those muscles to work - My P/T gave me pages of exercises - you have to tighten the muscles and make them work - not difficult to do and good results. took five weeks with P/T twice a week and then continuing another 6 weeks - some exercising for maintenance since then. A cane seems like the wrong way to go and my P/T never forced or muscled any stretches or twisting except what she had me do on my own.did . - Talk to your P/T about exercises - if it's a no-go, get somebody else

Charlie, yeah, the 210 Handyman kit is probably a selfish request - first car... now a pile of parts... to be a retirement project... the rest is a long story...It is good to see some other people making requests for 2-door wagon kits - I know a local club member who is converting a Modelhuas S/D to a 210 Handyman - it's posted here and nicely done. The 150 could be an easy two in one - Panel inserts for the sedan delivery, clear windows for the 150 Handyman. - don't know an easy way to convert the trim to 210 series... When 1955, 1956, and 1957 Chevrolets ruled Junior Stock drag racing, any model or engine combination worked in some class - I suppose wagons worked because all that glass added weight on the rear axle...

kind of off topic... but... A 1956 Chevrolet 210 2 door wagon would clear every work bench here! interested in a couple of the new releases - not so interested in the Bronco but good to see it as a new kit.

just another way to do the same thing... Layout and drill the small pilot holes like Bill suggested, but drill the final hole undersize.. My drilled holes always end up a little bit out of line. Using a fine round tapered needle file allows adjustment in the final size and location. The plastic filings on the file act kind of like a depth gauge so the holes all end up consistent diameter on the taper. Replicas and Miniatures has a drilled visor in their excellent chopped Model A body for the 1/24 Monogram kit - I wonder if Norm will make one for the new Revell kit...

Hey Tim, Thank you for your excellent reviews - they always show me what I want to see. No complaint here.. The top and firewall don't bother me, I had other plans anyway. The rear suspension is just a preference thing and I'll use what's in the kit. ...and (should I say it) I would put a small block Chevy in it as well. I guess that' the way it is, we all want something different from the next builder - there will never be a kit that has everything for everybody.

Hey Marc, Every time I've been to the NHRA museum, the model cars have been one of the highlights. I also remember seeing some of your models on display as well, Always good stuff. It's one of those must see places in LA.