Muncie

not a doc, but had some experience with a herniated disc problem - man, I know it hurts - walking should be one of the things that you should be able to do and shouldn't hurt as bad as sitting - I spent eight hours walking at a swap meet, but couldn't sit on the couch - P/T needs to focus on exercises to strengthen the core muscles that support the back - this even includes the lower abdominal muscles in front, not just back. Those muscles support the lower spine, not the other way around. Balancing on a large exercise ball forces those muscles to work - My P/T gave me pages of exercises - you have to tighten the muscles and make them work - not difficult to do and good results. took five weeks with P/T twice a week and then continuing another 6 weeks - some exercising for maintenance since then. A cane seems like the wrong way to go and my P/T never forced or muscled any stretches or twisting except what she had me do on my own.did . - Talk to your P/T about exercises - if it's a no-go, get somebody else

Charlie, yeah, the 210 Handyman kit is probably a selfish request - first car... now a pile of parts... to be a retirement project... the rest is a long story...It is good to see some other people making requests for 2-door wagon kits - I know a local club member who is converting a Modelhuas S/D to a 210 Handyman - it's posted here and nicely done. The 150 could be an easy two in one - Panel inserts for the sedan delivery, clear windows for the 150 Handyman. - don't know an easy way to convert the trim to 210 series... When 1955, 1956, and 1957 Chevrolets ruled Junior Stock drag racing, any model or engine combination worked in some class - I suppose wagons worked because all that glass added weight on the rear axle...

kind of off topic... but... A 1956 Chevrolet 210 2 door wagon would clear every work bench here! interested in a couple of the new releases - not so interested in the Bronco but good to see it as a new kit.

just another way to do the same thing... Layout and drill the small pilot holes like Bill suggested, but drill the final hole undersize.. My drilled holes always end up a little bit out of line. Using a fine round tapered needle file allows adjustment in the final size and location. The plastic filings on the file act kind of like a depth gauge so the holes all end up consistent diameter on the taper. Replicas and Miniatures has a drilled visor in their excellent chopped Model A body for the 1/24 Monogram kit - I wonder if Norm will make one for the new Revell kit...

Hey Tim, Thank you for your excellent reviews - they always show me what I want to see. No complaint here.. The top and firewall don't bother me, I had other plans anyway. The rear suspension is just a preference thing and I'll use what's in the kit. ...and (should I say it) I would put a small block Chevy in it as well. I guess that' the way it is, we all want something different from the next builder - there will never be a kit that has everything for everybody.

Hey Marc, Every time I've been to the NHRA museum, the model cars have been one of the highlights. I also remember seeing some of your models on display as well, Always good stuff. It's one of those must see places in LA.

PPG, most other automotive paint companies, Squadron and Tamiya have a similar one part putty that is basically thick lacquer. Bondo makes a consumer size package for home auto body repair, - bad news - like a time bomb under the paint - Bill's got it correct. With our hobby, it can also cause harm under the putty - as a lacquer based product, the solvents will also work their way into most of the primers that we use. The solvents can make their way down to the plastic... it's like putting a drop of lacquer on the plastic. Art Anderson and Bill/Mr.Obsessive have educated us on the internal stresses in injection molded plastic. The solvents in the putty can loosen some of those stresses and cause the plastic to start moving around - sink holes, warped lines, sanded off detail popping back up ... yeh, don't ask me how I know... this can show up before final paint, during polishing, and months later.

Looked like a can of worms, but this has been a good discussion. Another variable is the paint.. the chemistry in modern paint products has a lot of variations - I don't understand it, but it's there. back to the days of basics - enamel and lacquer and reference to the PPG repaint manual, 1976 Enamel dries by the evaporation of the solvents in the first stage and by oxidation of the binder in the second stage. Reducer out, oxygen in. Once oxidation has started, it's difficult for reducers in the top layers to get into the layers below Lacquer dries by the evaporation of the volatiles - lacquer will remain more or less soluble. Lacquer thinner in one coat will soften/dissolve into the layer below. If a top coat is applied heavy enough, the thinner will go through to the base material... in our case, (without a sealer) it can get into the plastic. Some of the modern primers and paints that we use act are more like an enamel, some are like a lacquer, but most I've seen have characteristics of both.

Steve, thank you for posting your parts and the information for Kustom Khrome. The parts you had plated look great - Good to know

Ten different model car builders will have at least 20 different methods for successful paint... none the same, results will vary, and what works for some won't work for the others... standard disclaimer out of the way - yes, I've had red plastic color show through Plasticoat t-235 gray primer after a couple of days. It looked good wet. Strange thing was, when I stripped it, the red plastic was lighter. With plastic from at least two different bodies that may vary in color, body work, filler, primer, time invested and a white lacquer top coat... A sealer sounds like good insurance and some peace of mind. The thinner in each coat of lacquer (Plasticoat) primer or lacquer color slightly softens the layer below. A sealer provides a barrier coat that keeps what's under the paint under the paint - that's what it's designed to do. It also keeps the top coat from attacking what's underneath. Sealer goes on thinner and has less texture than most primers - covers less detail than a primer coat and no sanding. No need to sand or prime over the sealer. Top coats can go directly over sealer (follow the manufacturer's instructions). I've painted white directly over sealer with no problem. You've got one important thing going for you because the paint and sealer come from the same place. I've had no regrets using sealer.

same here - had it set on the DVR so no chance even if I could have changed over - If I watched golf, it would be like watching the first 14 holes... I

Alexander Rossi showed a lot of talent in a couple of F1 starts last year - well deserved the 500 win - probably see him win another or back in F1...

I've airbrushed PPG automotive sealer before lacquer top coats with no regret. - it's makes a barrier so the lacquer does not harm the plastic - finer grain/texture and less thickness than primers like Plasti-Kote gray T-235 - straight from the can, no sanding before color coats, and quick drying.

Well, I just lost interest...

When I was doing a mockup with these same parts, they fit so good that I kept thinking this was part of Revell's plan with the new '29 kit... it looks so good together Hope to see more of your project!

The answer in the model car word is - "it depends..." There is probably some variation between the different ''29 roadster pickup bodies and the '32 Ford frames in our model car world. In full size, the internet shows the same reproduction firewall for all 28-29model A' - cars and pickups. I have a highboy 29 roadster pickup started with the Revell roadster pickup body - a reissue of the kit in Bill's picture - on the '32 frame in the recent Revell '29 roadster. All is going well with a little mismatch at the cowl -same for both the roadster and the pickup body. This mismatch is what you would have with a 28-29 body on a 32 frame in full size. Should be the same if you are using any a frame from any of the recent Revell '32 ford frames because they are the same shape when I checked them. In full size, there are several modifications that can be made - narrowing the crossmembers is one way - not worrying about it is another if the mismatch is not bothersome - Wescott also has a dimensioned diagram on their web page to pinch the '32 frame at the cowl so it follows the curve of the body - http://www.wescottsauto.com/WebCatalog/Tech/FrameDiagram1929Hiboy.pdf

OK, got it, thanks that helps The blue rotating email link has so little contrast with the black background that it is almost invisible for these old eyes I have some parts from altered states - off the web site - the parts look better than what's in the pictures here - customer service was very good as well.

so.... how does one get the super duper double top secret menu of the parts that are not on the web site??? no email address that I could find...

yes, a self -etching primer is required - NAPA also has a good on one in a rattle can. I've had regular primer just slide off.. after paint of course. Also best to have the temperature of the primer close to the temperature of the metal, air temperature should be the same. - warm paint on cold diecast will cause moisture on the diecast under the primer - also not so good.

Sorry, kinda getting picky here - The Black Widows were 1957 Chevrolet 150 sedans modified for NASCAR racing. The 1957 Chevrolet Stock Car Competition Guide published by Chevrolet (reprints are available) has all of the modifications and secrets including the 6-lug wheels, heavier suspension, and competition exhaust for NASCAR. There were about 6 Black Widows built by SEDCO for NASCAR However, There were a lot 150 sedans built and they were available with the optional fuel injected 283 so that combination would be legal or a junior stocker I like your plan - A little bit more on the Black Widows from the H.A.M.B. - http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/1957-chevrolet-black-widow.137930/

I get 27-28 MPG on Oregon Ethanol gas (10%), it jumps to 30-32 in Montana - I like Montana

no... Ford knew when they wrote the manual that the EPA would be pushing and probably mandating gasoline blends with more ethanol. Ford knows the materials that your car was built with and 10% is the max - they kind of want happy customers and are telling you straight. Newer cars are built for the E15 when it becomes mandatory... Older classics/vintage cars are built for zero ethanol. Ethanol has less energy content than gasoline - so it takes more to go the same distance - so that is reduced fuel economy, It has higher octane (see Bill's good words on resistance to detonation) which has some benefit if you want to rebuild he engine to raise the compression ratio or add a supercharger... It attracts water which is why it can be so damaging in older fuels systems with material like aluminum, steel, zinc, and other materials that were not made for it... And it is a good solvent in an old fuel system so it loosens all the crud and corrosion.. The poor carburetor doesn't have a chance. I'm hoping additives are a benefit in an old fuels system, but no direct experience yet. I see there are 6 new replies since I started drafting this so it may be a repeat by now..

With respect to what is already posted, I'm going to add a different observation... The driver side head is even with the front of the block, the passenger side head is about an inch back from the front of the block - looks like the real thing - this makes the offset for the connecting rods on the crankshaft. All looks OK, throw the intake manifold on it an it should look a lot better and be ready to go. Neither head goes all of the way back to the mounting surface for the bell-housing. The configuration of the kit parts doesn't match the real thing in this area, but the back of the head isn't even with the back of the block either. When the Corvette ignition shielding is added, that part of the block behind the heads will not be seen.

not bashing Round 2 - I hope they are still working on the web-site. The old web-site was great - lots of information in the model cars section and easy to find what I was looking for. Information was readily at hand for the new releases and current kits. I could go right to what I was looking for. With the new web-site, I couldn't find anything worthwhile and gave up...

Unless it is totally smashed and mangled, stainless trim can be repaired and polished. There are shops that specialize in stainless repair and some chrome shops can do it. Small dents can be a do it yourself project with a small hammer, a very fine sharp file, and a buffing wheel on a bench grinder. There should be videos on the internet.