Muncie

Revell also tried plating some chrome trees in different colors, gold, red, blue, etc, Hey, it was the 60's - None made it into packages for sale but a few of the prototype trees are out there.

Guess I'm going against the grain here or missing the point... Round Two is not reissuing kits for the group that doesn't want them... I think they also make tanks and ships and planes and I'm good with that - I'm not interested but there are other people that want them. For me the reissued kits fill a hole in my model building hobby. The new plastic is easy to work with and beats some of the issues with flexible or brittle materials that didn't take paint well. - and most of them are molded in white. It's much more fun to work with the current reissue. The reissues have filled in missing parts for some of my old rebuilds. The current reissues have the best tires and decals that these kits have ever had. Parts that we haven't seen in years have been restored to the tooling. I wouldn't change a thing they are doing.

Chuck, I also agree 1, 2,3,4, and 5 - except I'll use the big block in something. A kit with lots of potential. anybody have the secret to removing the redline from the wheels?

just some thoughts - Krylon has a satin poppy red, it may be too bright but even Walmart has it.. Michaels' and Hobby Lobby have a lot of paints with different texture and sheen - probably something there that will work. bBlick art supplies stores also have some deluxe, but spendy Montana Can paints- huge variety of colors and gloss. Hope this helps

flying or driving? driving - I just have a cut down copy paper box - the large size with the slip on lid with the box cut down to the height of the lid - about 4"high.. I put microfiber towels on the bottom, loosely around the models, and on top of the models under the lid. not wrapped. Of course it gets special handling so nothing gets put on top.. flying - I usually take only one or two models in a cardboard box that will fit in my carry-on backpack. I lined the box with foamcore for reinforcement,. pack the models with microfiber towels. It's light weight and has taken quite a bit of abuse without damage to the contents.

not a Ford guy - but good to see the Bill Ireland decals - he was a well known racer around here - will have to get a set of decals and do something with it

I've always used a pin vise and will continue to use one to get the drill started in the right place - but many times I wished I had a mini power drill to save my finger tips - My dremel is too big for fine work. - I'm going to have to check these out. - thanks for the tips

A 200 MPH car would have full front and rear suspension - better handling and traction - lots of tech information in the build forum at landracing.com. One of the best web-sites out there. edit - added link to the landracing.com build diaries - http://www.landracing.com/forum/index.php?board=12.0

Great find! I found mine at a local garage sale on my afternoon walk about a half mile from home on a Sunday afternoon. It was already cheap but I talked them down anyway - I was thinking if they said no it would save me carrying it home. They said OK... funny how carrying things like that seems to make them heavier. A great reference from A to Z.

thanks for posting the pics - a lot of neat stuff, awesome to see what was there - only problem is 600 photos added 600 projects to my list...

I build what I like to build because it's what I like to build... I also like looking at a lot of things that I don't like to build.

just one idea - Check with Mikes decals - he has a decal set for the NASCAR Torinos which looks like it has 90% of it. The other decals for Le Mans may be available somewhere else on a sports car decal sheet.

Correct, there is that much difference in the length of the intake ports in a big block Chevy head - the Can Am racers in the 1960's had it figured out. The ports on the intake side are in pairs, the ports on the exhaust side are evenly spaced. One of intake ports in each pair must be longer to get to from the manifold to the intake valve and it's not a straight shot. The stack length has to be staggered to make the total length from the top of the intake to the valve equal for all of the intake ports. As far as stack length on a small Chevy... they are tuned for the operating RPM of the engine where power is required. A common engine in the gas classes of the 1960's was a 301 Chevy small block with a 10,000 plus RPM top end - loved the sound of those screamers off the line - short stacks for high RPM, small displacement engine! Kind of different deal at the same time over on the 1/4 mile dirt ovals, Larger engines and tuned for torque out of the corner were the hot ticket- so taller fuel injection stacks. Some racers tried other things, but generally these rules held true. A couple of other choices for scale small block Chevy fuel injection - Speed City Resin has a couple of manifolds and metal stacks in different lengths. Some of the dirt track kits have engines with fuel injection. The Monogram sprint cars have a very nice engine with fuel injection, but it's a bit too late for a '60's gasser.

While we're talking beam axles, quick changes and alternative engines, how 'bout a new frame that interchanges completely with the existing frame to put them in... The engine mounts in the current frame for the Ford are located where they block center dump exhaust manifolds inside the chassis. The engine mounts have to be moved to put a small block Chevy in the frame with a hood.

Chuck Boerner's decals --- the aftermarket directory here on the forum shows stang1forever@yahoo.com and the website is http://s1248.photobucket.com/user/stang1forever/library/?sort=3&page=1 I keep looking and have a list but haven't bought any yet.

That's a good plan - the Testors enamels are really soft and the mildest polish will be best - maybe even as mild as something like Meguiers cleaner-wax. It should shine up good without clear, but if you go that step, any polish or wax will need to be cleaned off with a good detergent (dish soap) for the clear to stick.

Awesome! lots of reference information and inspiration in those photos - thank you for posting

I like this Cobra and pickup set - I'm hoping this goes over really well and we get to see some new combinations along with the old favorites... that would be fun!

a fogged edge can be done by lifting the edge of the tape and spraying over the back side of the raised tape. Changing how much the tape is lifted and the spray direction will change the width of the fogged area. better control with an airbrush but it's not impossible with a rattle can In the end, I agree, best advice - experiment to find the technique you like for the results you want and practice for consistency...

WOW! stunning, simply stunning. very nice work - you nailed it on the styling and body work --- the numbers... (in a good way) give it the attitude

Chad, thank you for posting the photos - good to see what's in the box. add my name to both lists - I like the pickup kit (LHS has my name on their list already) and I would also like to see a kit of Madame X - looks odd on the display at SEMA - way better on the road and in person.

This is looking good, build looks great - I like it, definitely on my list - thank you for the photos and review I like the idea of a simpler kit with good detail like this one - better chance of me finishing it...

Scott at Futurattraction has some great tires (and other products also) with great customer service. His slicks are wider and perfect for later drag cars so that might be your preference.

for the Monogram Snake and Mongoose F/C kits... Aftermarket solution... The Competition Resins CRT-501 slicks - will fit the kit wheels and look good. They are a soft black resin - size is like the Monogram slick used on the more modern funny car kits, but narrower, The more modern Monogram slicks always look too wide on the early funny cars and dragster so these are my go-to tire. Comp Rresins are also available at Slixx

huh? NNL West is scheduled for 2/3/2018 in Santa Clara, California...