Muncie

Mike, good to know, I like that! another good vendor I enjoy going to Coast when I'm in southern California - its a cool store, but I've also ordered paint from Scale Finishes

Coast Airbrush in Anahiem can do HOK in small sizes, I believe two oz. is the smallest, great people and customer service, interesting place, they can also set you up with the reducers and clears http://www.coastairbrush.com/

They were thinking about closing at the end of last year, but reorganized and downsized a bit instead - they were open a couple of months ago. It may be worth a phone call unless a person has other reasons to go thru Albany. ------ update - Good catch Gerry, thank you for the follow-up, sometimes things change quickly and I was not up to date.. Their web site shows ASA in Albany closed the doors at the end of July. They will be missed

Craig, If you get to Powell's Books, a great art supply store is a short walk away. Blick Art has lots of things that can be used for building model cars - paints, markers, tools, materials.... Might have to check to see what is allowed on the airplane. Powell's is at 10th and Burnside, Blick is at 11th and NW Glisan. This is the alphabet district - the streets in order are Burnside, Couch, Davis, Everett, Flanders, Glisan.

Craig, Tammies in Beaverton Hobbytown in SE Portland (Happy Valley) - not the one in Wilsonville Hillsboro Hobbies in Hillsboro Coyote Hobbies in Oregon City ASA Hobbies in Albany has old kits These shops have a decent assortment of current kits and paints, but little aftermarket or old kits. Frankly, I'd spend more time on your Diners, Drive-Ins, and Dives list. Micro breweries are big in Portland and most have great food with good prices. Now for the interesting stuff - Beaches Cruise In every Wednesday evening at Portland International Raceway thru the end of September - Average is about 600 cars, could be 200 if it rains or if it is over 100 degrees - on a good night late in September, it will be over 2000 cars. Live music, Food is good there and it also includes the 1/8 mile grudge drag racing, Hot Rods, Pre-1973 and Corvettes get in, outside parking and shuttle for the civilian cars. World of Speed Museum in Wilsonville - Muscle cars are the featured display right now, but plenty of race cars as well, big collection of Mickey Thompson cars. Easily worth the short drive from Portland. Hope you have a great trip and get a chance to look around

agree with all of the comments and possibilities above - it could be any of these things or a combination plus bonus one more possibility - there may be contamination or moisture in the air supply - (it's happening on multiple projects so that's kind of a clue) - drain the tank, check the filter and maybe add something to take moisture out of the air. Basements are tricky because they can pickup moisture thru the walls from the ground.

yep, it was a cool model, very well done and looked good. I remember the custom license plate said "I know" Welded parts to a Corvette body - no problem here. just needs a good story about a very rare steel bodied Corvette or something like that. I also say go for it! more - Jimmy Flintstone has some figures that may be appropriate - an alternative parts source for interesting tires would be the toy section a the local Walmart, K Mart, Target or wherever toys are found

Long, long ago, when I was working at my high school job in a local hardware store... and spending my earnings on my first car... I kept every receipt and added them up long before it was running. I had a general idea of the number based on the parts that I had bought but the nuts & bolts, elec terminals, wire, tape, sand paper, paint, misc... added up to more than the real parts. All together, it was a lot more than I thought... So I did the reasonable thing and stopped adding up receipts.

Well done Excellent, detailed post as well

Revell also tried plating some chrome trees in different colors, gold, red, blue, etc, Hey, it was the 60's - None made it into packages for sale but a few of the prototype trees are out there.

Guess I'm going against the grain here or missing the point... Round Two is not reissuing kits for the group that doesn't want them... I think they also make tanks and ships and planes and I'm good with that - I'm not interested but there are other people that want them. For me the reissued kits fill a hole in my model building hobby. The new plastic is easy to work with and beats some of the issues with flexible or brittle materials that didn't take paint well. - and most of them are molded in white. It's much more fun to work with the current reissue. The reissues have filled in missing parts for some of my old rebuilds. The current reissues have the best tires and decals that these kits have ever had. Parts that we haven't seen in years have been restored to the tooling. I wouldn't change a thing they are doing.

Chuck, I also agree 1, 2,3,4, and 5 - except I'll use the big block in something. A kit with lots of potential. anybody have the secret to removing the redline from the wheels?

just some thoughts - Krylon has a satin poppy red, it may be too bright but even Walmart has it.. Michaels' and Hobby Lobby have a lot of paints with different texture and sheen - probably something there that will work. bBlick art supplies stores also have some deluxe, but spendy Montana Can paints- huge variety of colors and gloss. Hope this helps

flying or driving? driving - I just have a cut down copy paper box - the large size with the slip on lid with the box cut down to the height of the lid - about 4"high.. I put microfiber towels on the bottom, loosely around the models, and on top of the models under the lid. not wrapped. Of course it gets special handling so nothing gets put on top.. flying - I usually take only one or two models in a cardboard box that will fit in my carry-on backpack. I lined the box with foamcore for reinforcement,. pack the models with microfiber towels. It's light weight and has taken quite a bit of abuse without damage to the contents.

not a Ford guy - but good to see the Bill Ireland decals - he was a well known racer around here - will have to get a set of decals and do something with it

I've always used a pin vise and will continue to use one to get the drill started in the right place - but many times I wished I had a mini power drill to save my finger tips - My dremel is too big for fine work. - I'm going to have to check these out. - thanks for the tips

A 200 MPH car would have full front and rear suspension - better handling and traction - lots of tech information in the build forum at landracing.com. One of the best web-sites out there. edit - added link to the landracing.com build diaries - http://www.landracing.com/forum/index.php?board=12.0

Great find! I found mine at a local garage sale on my afternoon walk about a half mile from home on a Sunday afternoon. It was already cheap but I talked them down anyway - I was thinking if they said no it would save me carrying it home. They said OK... funny how carrying things like that seems to make them heavier. A great reference from A to Z.

thanks for posting the pics - a lot of neat stuff, awesome to see what was there - only problem is 600 photos added 600 projects to my list...

I build what I like to build because it's what I like to build... I also like looking at a lot of things that I don't like to build.

just one idea - Check with Mikes decals - he has a decal set for the NASCAR Torinos which looks like it has 90% of it. The other decals for Le Mans may be available somewhere else on a sports car decal sheet.

Correct, there is that much difference in the length of the intake ports in a big block Chevy head - the Can Am racers in the 1960's had it figured out. The ports on the intake side are in pairs, the ports on the exhaust side are evenly spaced. One of intake ports in each pair must be longer to get to from the manifold to the intake valve and it's not a straight shot. The stack length has to be staggered to make the total length from the top of the intake to the valve equal for all of the intake ports. As far as stack length on a small Chevy... they are tuned for the operating RPM of the engine where power is required. A common engine in the gas classes of the 1960's was a 301 Chevy small block with a 10,000 plus RPM top end - loved the sound of those screamers off the line - short stacks for high RPM, small displacement engine! Kind of different deal at the same time over on the 1/4 mile dirt ovals, Larger engines and tuned for torque out of the corner were the hot ticket- so taller fuel injection stacks. Some racers tried other things, but generally these rules held true. A couple of other choices for scale small block Chevy fuel injection - Speed City Resin has a couple of manifolds and metal stacks in different lengths. Some of the dirt track kits have engines with fuel injection. The Monogram sprint cars have a very nice engine with fuel injection, but it's a bit too late for a '60's gasser.

While we're talking beam axles, quick changes and alternative engines, how 'bout a new frame that interchanges completely with the existing frame to put them in... The engine mounts in the current frame for the Ford are located where they block center dump exhaust manifolds inside the chassis. The engine mounts have to be moved to put a small block Chevy in the frame with a hood.

Chuck Boerner's decals --- the aftermarket directory here on the forum shows stang1forever@yahoo.com and the website is http://s1248.photobucket.com/user/stang1forever/library/?sort=3&page=1 I keep looking and have a list but haven't bought any yet.

That's a good plan - the Testors enamels are really soft and the mildest polish will be best - maybe even as mild as something like Meguiers cleaner-wax. It should shine up good without clear, but if you go that step, any polish or wax will need to be cleaned off with a good detergent (dish soap) for the clear to stick.