Muncie

That'll work - this would be the standard cab entry step for a Freightliner built at the time that the AMT kit represents. The fabricated box step under the door is what is in the kit. The loop step and cab skirt modifications are fairly straight forward. The ends of the loop go all the way up and attach to the cab deck, there is a triangulated brace from the step (at the lower rivets on the skirt) to the deck about 12 inches inboard of the skirt. The box step was changed to the formed step about 1973 (which is one feature that dates the kit). The standard loop steps were available until 1982 (another memory cell kicked in) when the 61 series raised cab was phased out of production and new FMCSR regulations for COE cab entry made the ladder step standard. Production changes at Freightliner were more evolutionary than based on model year. New features went into production when they were ready for prime time. That's why you'll see things that don't fit a specific model year. Looking forward to seeing you get this one together - interesting project.

I will also go with 1971-73. the AMT cab is a 61 series raised cab which was available say, ohhh... about 1969 thru the eaerly '80's. other things in the kit were more specifically available on Freightliner 1971-73.. The loop step in the wheel well under the door was used on the 61 series cab (yellow cab above) until the 61 series "rasied" cab was introduced with the box step under the door. Early box steps were fabricated assemblies until they were replaced in production with the formed step under the door like the silver cab above. Raised cabs had the box step under the door and either loop cab entry steps or ladder steps - loop standard, ladder optional. The fabricated ladder step like the AMT kit was the first version - fabricated box step and fabricated ladder. Later versions have the formed step frame. In the 1970's, Freightliner was owned by Consolidated Freightways. Way back in the '50's, CF didn't want to sell trucks so they set up a 25 year marketing agreement with White to handle the marketing and sales. The agreement expired in 1976 in the U.S. and a couple of years later in Canada. That is when the nameplates changed on the cab. The 1975 in the top picture is a 71 series "stretch" cab - 4"wider then the raised cab to accommodate the Super Cooling Power Package for larger engines. Very generally speaking, for a certain time period in the 70's, fleets specced lower horsepower raised cabs and stretch cabs with more horsepower were the premium truck. Hope this helps

WOW! - very impressive, I keep going speechless... What you done with the body modifications is awesome, extra points for degree of difficulty working with the resin Satellite body. They aren't the best to start with.

Is there any new information on the Bed Buggy? There are definitely some parts in there that I can use...

The trick here may be to wander over to the craft side and take a look - there are alternative gold-silver colors over there

cool, thanks

Pat, Based on the shape and location on the front accessory drive, it is the power steering reservoir. Type, size and location varied by truck manufacturer. That looks like a very well detailed engine - what kit is it?

the original post is 4/28/2006, the oldest topic in car kit news and reviews follows that on 6/18/2006. it looks like the original request was granted.

I've heard a drop of lacquer thinner on the backing near the part to soften/dissolve the adhesive... seems like it would work.

not sure about the kit - there are some here. https://www.shapeways.com/shops/maple-leaf-modelworks from forum member spex84

some history and great model building reference photos in the auction listing - https://www.mecum.com/lots/FL0118-312675/1965-dodge-hemi-coronet-afx/

something specific to these Revell funny car bodies - the edges of the body and the end pieces are very thin. They don't have a lot of contact surface for the glue so the joint can be fragile. I usually build up a layer of gap filling super glue or gel super glue inside the body in the corner. Normally about 3 coats allowed to dry between coats before starting the body work and filler on the outside.

agreed, good stuff, also works well with a fine microfiber polishing cloth. This is the go-to polish for softer paints like Model Master enamels, other polishes can be too abrasive and will cut thru the paint.

not Tim, but does it really matter why? this is a topic about making a request to kit manufacturers for a 1926 to 1927 roadster kit...

I've been enjoying all of the KK and RRR projects on the work bench. That's an excellent idea for these wire wheels. I'm generally not a fan of wire wheels. I had also written off the wheels in the '32 sedan because they looked a little heavy to my eye with the kit tires and there are so many other choices. But your wheels look really good on these Firestone dirt track tires. No doubt I will be using your tutorial and making a set of these. Thank you for posting your instructions.

cool! a new kit announcement is good news - the way the time zones work out, it will be announced Sunday before I have my morning coffee!

cool! - always been afraid of foiling that side trim but have a couple of projects that need it - thanks for the tip!

Brad4321 - you still there? OK, continued testing. Using better technique, I applied a good coat of the Duplicolor 1699 primer-sealer over the last test and let it dry over night. This morning, I applied a couple of very wet/heavy coats of Tamiya primer to try to draw the sharpie back to the surface like it did before. Nothing showed up. No sharpie. Just a smooth, clean, paintable surface. It looks like everything stayed under the sealer where it was supposed to. I'm satisfied, but there are still some unknowns about what the top coats may do or what may happen over time - should be good. If in doubt, strip the part, remove the sharpie, and carry on.

Yes, Norm At Replicas and Miniatures made a chopped 1930 Model A Coupe body - very nicely done and much more accurate the an the old Monogram kit. Talking yesterday with one of the local club members and he mentioned that Norm dropped it and took it out of the catalog when the mold reached the end of its normal life and Revell came out with the new kit. Replicas may have reissued the body when Revell stopped production. - Long way of saying that it would be worth a quick email to them to check availability.

Here's my completely unscientific laboratory results.... I applied spots of black sharpie on both sides of my well worn test hood last night. This afternoon, I gave one side several coats of Tamiya primer - The spots got worse with every coat and never covered the sharpie - that doesn't mean Tamiya primer is bad - it's just not compatible over sharpie. The sharpie bled into the primer which indicates the thinners in the primer are affecting the sharpie. I scrapped one of the spots with a knife and the sharpie goes all the way thru the primer to the plastic, Best I can tell, the sharpie did not bleed into the plastic which surprised me. The spots are blue which indicates to me the colors in the sharpie and primer are blending together. I think that will happen with most rattle can lacquer based primers. I used Duplicolor primer sealer #DAP1699 on the other side. - it went on good and after several thin coats the sharpie disappeared. We may have something that works. The Duplicolor sealer comes out kind of dark so it may take a white undercoat over the sealer for light color top coats. The sealer looks thin, so no detail was lost. It's smooth enough that it looks like the next color can be sprayed without sanding - or very little sanding depending on you procedures. Rustoleum and probably other paint companies make a similar product. your results may vary... phase 2 testing will be a heavy coat of Tamiya primer over the sealer to see if it gets thru and brings the sharpie to the surface.. edit - test result --- Well, heck - wet coats of Tamiya primer did go thru and bring the sharpie back... I may not have let everything dry thoroughly - well, I know I didn't let it dry. Tamiya primer does contain alcohol so that may be the curse that keeps coming back. Hope this helps

would a thin layer of super glue make a barrier coat? It seems like that is something that would not react with the base coats or the top coats... any experience out there?

The important word is sealer. that's the operational word - sealer. Most primers are not sealers but Duplicolor makes a rattle can primer sealer that does both. It is available at most auto parts stores --- disclosure - I'm trying the Duplicolor primer sealer tomorrow on a scrap hood that I sharpied up tonight. But I'm sold on sealers because I've used the old lacquer based automotive sealers thru an air brush in the past with success. Those old sealers did not require mixing, were very thin, went on smooth and never required sanding before the top coats were applied. They never crazed plastic sprayed on bare plastic straight out of the can, and I could use automotive lacquer top coats. The one to one paint techniques and materials have changed - and some of the new stuff is pretty nasty - but I have some of the old lacquer sealer left... I need to see if I can get more if it's still available. A trip to an automotive pant supplier may lead to a better product - but it has to be a sealer. Sealers are designed to be used after the body work and primer are complete. It's like and insurance policy to keep body work, different colors, and other ugly things from bleeding into the top coat. Duplicolor (and other manufacturers) make several types of primers for different purposes but not all primers are sealers - and some sealers are not primers. If it just says sealer, it will go over the last coat of primer. More thoughts - it sounds like you are working on something that has some time and fabrications invested. At this point it's kind of a science project to find a solution - It may be best to set that part aside for now - make up some mockups with the same process, shrarpie, primer silver to experiment with - save the wear and tear on the real part. There are two things that I never keep in the room where I paint to remove the temptation to use them - permanent markers are one, WD-40 is the other (another story...) I have some friends that have an old booth from a diner in their basement - they had it reupholstered with a white metalflake vinyl. It looked great after they got it back but after time, the blue marker that the upholsterer used on the backside started to show thru. That kind of cured me of using markers unless I wanted something permanent.. Here is a similar issue - might be a good read as well - http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/topic/114755-mythbuster-red-bleed/?page=1 Hope this helps

A couple of places to check out for 1 to 1 pro-touring chassis reference.... Art Morrison Chassis Enterprises - https://www.artmorrison.com/homepage2.php - plenty of chassis and suspension parts information in their catalog and lots of tech on their web-site Detroit Speed - lots of pro touring chassis parts in their online catalog for many applications - nine pages of photos on one of their projects here http://www.detroitspeed.com/Projects/craig-hardee-1969-camaro/craig-hardee-1969-camaro-pg-1.html - plus installation and tech videos

It sounds like you are already past the point where the surface has been primered and it has a coat of paint - and the Sharpie has bled thru both. A coat of sealer should take care of it (but Sharpie could still be problematic) Sealers are made to create a barrier between what's underneath and what's on top. Not sure what brand primer or type of paint you use, but Duplicolor makes a primer sealer in a rattle can.

Thank you for reposting the pictures - that is a great looking model, nicely done. I've picked up an interest in the Nichels cars lately - somewhere on the list of projects is something driven by Len Sutton, an Oregon driver who drove USAC stock cars for Nichels - so he was a teammate with AJ Foyt. Your Dodge is adding to that inspiration.