Muncie

Speed City has good parts and customer service. Another source for the wheels is Ed Fluck at Drag City Casting - http://public.fotki.com/drasticplasticsmcc/member_dealer_directory/drag-city-casting-/ I like what you're doing here and have been enjoying following along - good work, neat project.

but adding weight is also an option... A certain amount of ballast was permitted. Concealed ballast was prohibited, but there were ways... I can remember the days when a buddy had a '57 Chevy that ran Gas class or Modified Production and weighed somewhere between 4,500 and 5,000 pounds with a very small small block. Racers always wanted to be at the low end of the weight break - for A/G, that would be as close to 5 pounds per cubic inch as possible to be competitive. That makes it 2,270 pounds with a 454. More realistically, you could move that car into B/G with a 454 at 2,952 pounds and be more competitive. A racer may even want to add more racing equipment (weight) and get into C/G at 3,632 pounds if there was a killer car already running in B/G. Displacement can also be altered so the combinations start to multiply, links to rule books here - A general rule of thumb is every 100 pounds adds a tenth of a second to the ET so 200 pounds is a big disadvantage. Anyways, that's a long way to say probably B/G (or if supercharged B/GS, BB/G, or BB/GS depending on the class designation in the rules for that year). But it could be C, D, E... My memory is failing on one important point. If I recall correctly, driver and fuel at the end of the run are included in the weight - adjust calculations accordingly. hope this helps

I think it would look great under the Badman - go for it! - I've also have it in the plans when my Badman gasser project hits the workbench.

It's looks very similar to the 1970 W-30 442 Olds W-27 aluminum differential housing and rear axle cover - it's function was a 27 pound weight reduction - not sure if Monogram was trying to duplicate that or just do something that looks similar ---

Jason, that sounds like a great trip, plenty of cool places to see - the California Hot Rod Reunion is bucket list for sure - here's more..

this might work... The Novas were unibody from the factory and most received a new frame when they became funny cars. GTO's and Chevelles were full frame construction from the factory which could be altered or replaced with a lighter and stronger tube frame.

something like Bruce Larson's 1966 USA-1 Chevelle funny car - fiberglass (not tilt) body on a rectangular tube (not Logghe) chassis - there are some images and information on Google. As already mentioned, 1996 was a big transition in funny car technology.

Although the accuracy and detail of the engine in this kit leaves it up to interpretation (agreeing with you Bill), the engine most closely resembles a big block Mopar - but don't look too closely. The basic guts for this kit came from a series of Lindberg fantasy cars in the early 60's and the kit suffers when compared to current kits or the real thing.

Long ago it was an honor to return a favor from a friend by building a model car that he was going to give to another friend as a birthday gift. The guy receiving the model and I did not know each other. Well, walking through the fall antique car show and swap meet... there it is on the table in the model car contest. So, I asked the guys at the model contest if they knew anything about it - nope, nothing - some guy dropped it off, didn't know who built it but thought it was good enough that it should be there on the display. No credit taken, not competing for a trophy - not the kind of guys that would take credit for someone else's work anyway. Through the day everybody met everybody else involved. It was a good day for all. Maybe another side of this... (and one reason most (all the ones I've run into) model car contests rules require models must be built by the entrant/owner) I usually prefer displays to contests. However, if trophies and awards are involved, I don't want to compete model car against checkbook - I would walk away.

Good to see these, they look great - thank you for bringing them out and posting - I'm hoping these kits are high on Round 2's list

Twig Zeigler - Pizza Haven Funny Car https://www.nhra.com/news/2017/seattle-70s-part-1

here it is, Lindberg offered it several times with various names - was available as part of a double kit about 15 years ago. it kinda looks better without the top... photo courtesy Ebay - https://www.ebay.com/itm/Lindberg-Kits-Red-Rebel-Kustom-Koffin-White-Lightnin-and-Sportsman-Class/401241337076?hash=item5d6bd8ecf4:g:jmsAAOSwAYtWO7rz

Joe's correct, no known solvents to weld those tires together... This has worked - Shoo Goo (it's an adhesive for repairing shoes) works but it's a time intensive process waiting for it to dry several times. It sticks to the surface (what do they call that?) instead of softening the plastic to weld the part together. I run a bead at the seam to hold the tire halves together, let it dry. A single bead at the seam isn't very durable. Next step is to partially fill the tire about half way up the sidewall, let it dry with the tire vertical. Rotate, repeat, rotate, repeat... until it's glued all around. Let it dry. Shoo Goo gets stronger the longer it dries - I'm talking three or four weeks to get to full strenghth. Try to keep it off the tread, but any excess can be sanded to smooth the seam.

posting at the same time... Mike has it -This kit is based on the Testor's Smoothster kit so engine detailing should be the same Aa image or video search on Google for Boyd's Smoothster should turn up some information. Most of the wires and plumbing will be routed or covered and won't show. The tech sheet shows the engine is a 1992 LT-1 small block Chevy - The LT-1 used the opti-spark ignition with a distributor on the timing cover behind the water pump. hope this helps

Jamie at Molumnium also offers a couple of lift suspension kits - good parts and excellent customer service - http://moluminum.com/

to correct the facts, Dutchman Axles has nothing to do with the Flying Dutchman Funny cars... it is a different Dutchman - https://dutchmanaxles.com/about-dutchman-axles.html

That makes sense, AMT didn't have a 'Cuda kit to turn into a funny car... looks like it was the AMT Scorpion kit that got the five spokes on the Piranha chassis. The Piranha reissue I have has the 5-spokes and two halves for the 12 spokes.

I don't have the kit in question in hand, but I believe the front wheels on the Piranha chassis were changed to spindle mount five spokes when the chassis was used under the Big Jim Dunn rear engine funny car. It matches pictures I've seen on the past. However, the 12 spokes were molded in two halves and only one half of each wheel was retooled for the five spokes. The spindle mount 5-spokes and two halves of the 12 spokes are still on the chrome tree in the last issue of the Piranha. Two kits equals enough 12 spoke halves to make a pair of wheels for the Piranha - plus a two pairs of the beautiful AMT spindle mount five spokes and a lot of good 1/4 mile parts for other projects.

There are a lot of good tips in this thread, but planning to have a good time may be the most important - You'll have memories, stories, and friends that will last for years.

The AMT NASCAR T-bird has a good 351 - decent block, heads, valve covers and dry sump pump - will take a little rework to add a Lenco , tunnel ram, and a pair of dominators - The AMT NASCAR kits are reasonably priced and not hard to find. https://www.mikesdecals.com/amt-1989-thunderbird-p-263.html - or - this one looks good, ready to go at Futurattraction - http://futurattraction.com/8.html

Casey, that's the photo I was thinking of. great reference. More good detail photos of the 2015 Detroit Autorama are posted here on the forum. Credit and Thank You to Howard Cohen and Tim Boyd for my annual Autorama fix. (I wish the show people would crank up the lights on set up day.)

The Revell 2005 C6 Corvette would be the best donor for the Corvette chassis. Imposter was built on a modified base model Corvette frame. Amazingly, the base model Corvette chassis is the correct width for the Impala body - like the Corvette was built for it. Wheels/tires and suspension for the Grand Sport or Z06 C6 Corvette would be too wide. The Corvette chassis was lengthened for Imposter - I can't remember the exact number but there is plenty of reference material out there.

also looks like there is a lot more noticeable curve in the top of the front fender and in the side creases front and rear an the 1:1 - a little too flat in Salvino;s drawing. I hope they are checking there 3d work against a full size NASCAR stock car. The World of Speed Museum in Wilsonville, Oregon has a Richard Petty square headlight Monte Carlo in their collection - it wasn't on the floor when I was there a few weeks ago but it is usually on display

Agreed - best to find some photos of the Blue Max chassis. Fuel tanks size and shape also varied a lot on funny cars in the 70's. Any reference you can find will be very helpful for the smaller details as well. I won't claim expert title... Here's my recipe for 1974 -1978 Funny cars ---- Monogram chassis - has the length, easier to cut down than lengthen a plastic frame. The Revell chassis was one of the earlier dragster style funny cars. The first Revell kit was Ed McCullough's Revellution which had a wide frame and roll cage to fit. Engine location - it's going to be better with the Monogram chassis, but it may need to be moved back, altered chassis tins to match Monogram KB engine - by 1974, most of the heavy hitters were running Keith Black blocks, the Revell engine looks a little small to me and is a production block.it may take a Revell engine to backdate the supercharger. (can't remember that detail) Competition resin CRT-510 slicks - the Revell slicks look too small for this era, and the Monogram slicks are too wide. Front/Rear wheels also from Comp Resins to fit - also available from Slixx The later 1976ish Revellution had the fuel tank forward of the front axle but the front axle was still on a torsion bar with the axle between the upper and lower chassis tubes - so, a bit of fabricating with brass rod and tubing for the axle, steering and suspension... hope this helps