Muncie

Twig Zeigler - Pizza Haven Funny Car https://www.nhra.com/news/2017/seattle-70s-part-1

here it is, Lindberg offered it several times with various names - was available as part of a double kit about 15 years ago. it kinda looks better without the top... photo courtesy Ebay - https://www.ebay.com/itm/Lindberg-Kits-Red-Rebel-Kustom-Koffin-White-Lightnin-and-Sportsman-Class/401241337076?hash=item5d6bd8ecf4:g:jmsAAOSwAYtWO7rz

Joe's correct, no known solvents to weld those tires together... This has worked - Shoo Goo (it's an adhesive for repairing shoes) works but it's a time intensive process waiting for it to dry several times. It sticks to the surface (what do they call that?) instead of softening the plastic to weld the part together. I run a bead at the seam to hold the tire halves together, let it dry. A single bead at the seam isn't very durable. Next step is to partially fill the tire about half way up the sidewall, let it dry with the tire vertical. Rotate, repeat, rotate, repeat... until it's glued all around. Let it dry. Shoo Goo gets stronger the longer it dries - I'm talking three or four weeks to get to full strenghth. Try to keep it off the tread, but any excess can be sanded to smooth the seam.

posting at the same time... Mike has it -This kit is based on the Testor's Smoothster kit so engine detailing should be the same Aa image or video search on Google for Boyd's Smoothster should turn up some information. Most of the wires and plumbing will be routed or covered and won't show. The tech sheet shows the engine is a 1992 LT-1 small block Chevy - The LT-1 used the opti-spark ignition with a distributor on the timing cover behind the water pump. hope this helps

Jamie at Molumnium also offers a couple of lift suspension kits - good parts and excellent customer service - http://moluminum.com/

to correct the facts, Dutchman Axles has nothing to do with the Flying Dutchman Funny cars... it is a different Dutchman - https://dutchmanaxles.com/about-dutchman-axles.html

That makes sense, AMT didn't have a 'Cuda kit to turn into a funny car... looks like it was the AMT Scorpion kit that got the five spokes on the Piranha chassis. The Piranha reissue I have has the 5-spokes and two halves for the 12 spokes.

I don't have the kit in question in hand, but I believe the front wheels on the Piranha chassis were changed to spindle mount five spokes when the chassis was used under the Big Jim Dunn rear engine funny car. It matches pictures I've seen on the past. However, the 12 spokes were molded in two halves and only one half of each wheel was retooled for the five spokes. The spindle mount 5-spokes and two halves of the 12 spokes are still on the chrome tree in the last issue of the Piranha. Two kits equals enough 12 spoke halves to make a pair of wheels for the Piranha - plus a two pairs of the beautiful AMT spindle mount five spokes and a lot of good 1/4 mile parts for other projects.

There are a lot of good tips in this thread, but planning to have a good time may be the most important - You'll have memories, stories, and friends that will last for years.

The AMT NASCAR T-bird has a good 351 - decent block, heads, valve covers and dry sump pump - will take a little rework to add a Lenco , tunnel ram, and a pair of dominators - The AMT NASCAR kits are reasonably priced and not hard to find. https://www.mikesdecals.com/amt-1989-thunderbird-p-263.html - or - this one looks good, ready to go at Futurattraction - http://futurattraction.com/8.html

Casey, that's the photo I was thinking of. great reference. More good detail photos of the 2015 Detroit Autorama are posted here on the forum. Credit and Thank You to Howard Cohen and Tim Boyd for my annual Autorama fix. (I wish the show people would crank up the lights on set up day.)

The Revell 2005 C6 Corvette would be the best donor for the Corvette chassis. Imposter was built on a modified base model Corvette frame. Amazingly, the base model Corvette chassis is the correct width for the Impala body - like the Corvette was built for it. Wheels/tires and suspension for the Grand Sport or Z06 C6 Corvette would be too wide. The Corvette chassis was lengthened for Imposter - I can't remember the exact number but there is plenty of reference material out there.

also looks like there is a lot more noticeable curve in the top of the front fender and in the side creases front and rear an the 1:1 - a little too flat in Salvino;s drawing. I hope they are checking there 3d work against a full size NASCAR stock car. The World of Speed Museum in Wilsonville, Oregon has a Richard Petty square headlight Monte Carlo in their collection - it wasn't on the floor when I was there a few weeks ago but it is usually on display

Agreed - best to find some photos of the Blue Max chassis. Fuel tanks size and shape also varied a lot on funny cars in the 70's. Any reference you can find will be very helpful for the smaller details as well. I won't claim expert title... Here's my recipe for 1974 -1978 Funny cars ---- Monogram chassis - has the length, easier to cut down than lengthen a plastic frame. The Revell chassis was one of the earlier dragster style funny cars. The first Revell kit was Ed McCullough's Revellution which had a wide frame and roll cage to fit. Engine location - it's going to be better with the Monogram chassis, but it may need to be moved back, altered chassis tins to match Monogram KB engine - by 1974, most of the heavy hitters were running Keith Black blocks, the Revell engine looks a little small to me and is a production block.it may take a Revell engine to backdate the supercharger. (can't remember that detail) Competition resin CRT-510 slicks - the Revell slicks look too small for this era, and the Monogram slicks are too wide. Front/Rear wheels also from Comp Resins to fit - also available from Slixx The later 1976ish Revellution had the fuel tank forward of the front axle but the front axle was still on a torsion bar with the axle between the upper and lower chassis tubes - so, a bit of fabricating with brass rod and tubing for the axle, steering and suspension... hope this helps

build one long one, and one short one? whatever you have cooking will be worth watching, I'm in.

kind of out there, but looks like enough material in the two bodies to build a stretched altered wheelbase early funny car... lengthen the front end and move the rear axle ahead. whatever you build, I'm looking forward to it.

Thanks for the tour. I probably won't get to see it in person, but I'm enjoying the visits. I hope you do more.

Thanks for the tip, I like it.

always works best if you put "Wanted" and "1:32 scale 76 Pontiac Ventura parts" in the topic. A lot of people skip wanted ads if they have to open them. You may consider partially assembled built-ups, parts kits...

I'm confused here - what did you want Round 2 to do? new kits, different boxes, more marketing?

Krylon Dull Aluminum in the large cans is a good go-to for a basic cast aluminum finish. Sometimes difficult to find but worth it. Some Ace Hardware stores have it. As has been said, there are different levels of brightness ands gloss in an engine compartment but this is a good place to start. Dull Aluminum also makes a good base coat for metallizers and other metallic finishes.

Bill, these might work... Check with Jamie over at http://moluminum.com/ he has a couple of part numbers from Czech Truck Model. It is not the complete lamp assembly, but the bulbs are very detailed and look good.

others may have different results, but I prefer the new plastic when slicing and dicing. I use a razor saw and flat file to fit - edges are smoother with the new plastic - straight cuts glue together better. I've been using Tamiya Super Thin or Plastruct Bondene to "weld" the pieces back together. The new plastic is definitely harder than the old gray gooey stuff. I've "replaced" a couple of kits because the new plastic glues better - build the new, gray plastic becomes the parts donor.

which was based on the Chrysler 392, not the 426