Muncie

Competition Resin makes the 6 pack scoop, also available at Slixx decals. Part #CRC=072. It's the Dodge version with the rib on the top but that's easy to take care of.

I'm thinking that at best, parts packs are living in the past and would have a one run and done production run. Revell probably sees that it's better to spend money to develop new products that will have return on investment in other future products that can have more production runs. Past or future... The future is going to come out ahead. Same with an expensive retooling for the 1972 Road Runner for MPC.

Do the Airfix kits have decent wheels and tires? I'm thinking donor kit for something else. The Airfix kits sound like the kind of kit that my grandkids are into. That makes them interesting and worthwhile.

Careful - test first. Different brands of toothpaste have different abrasives. Some are fine, some are not. Some toothpastes have a coarse abrasive and will "fog" plastic with a lot of fine scratches. I tired that trick in my youger days and ended up getting a plastic polish to take out the toothpaste scratches.

I can go with that, those are good ranges. It's going to vary by manufacturer. Freghtliner FLT, FLA, FLB COE sizes were... Day cab - 48" (basically one customer, that hauled large empty tanks), 51", 63" (most Common, see AMT single drive kit) COE sleeper cab - 75" (very small bunk, especially with options like breaking in well exhaust, for short BOC), 81" (rare), 86"( most common, see AMT dual drive kit), 96" double bunk (most common double bunk) sand 104" COE's were the most common configuration when the size and weight laws applied to the overall length of the tractor and trailer combination. Conventional became the combination of choice when the length laws were changed to apply to just the length of the trailer in 1982.

looks like fun - what a blast imagine... charging a rat rod at a Tesla super charger station, That would be cool!

thank you for posting the video - very interesting - I have a couple of AMX odds and ends - now I know what to do with them

JC - Great research! you did good. thanks

Thanks Tom, It was great meeting you and your wife yesterday. Everything in the trade looks good. Ritzville was a good place to meet - interesting old town. I walked the main street and read the historical plaques on the buildnings. That black Chevy lacks a navigation system (I didn't order it on purpose) and it is known for getting lost - it makes roadtrips more interesting. It happened again yesterday on the way home. All around a good trip.

On I-84, westbound, near the west end of the Columbia river gorge, about half an hour before sunset, running in the fast lane probably a little over the speed limit... 2005ish Ford GT, red, white stripes - yeah, a real one, not Mustang... in the rain! The first one I've seen in the wild. Love it, have to give the guy proper respects for really driving the thing.

The Mercury capsule was donated to the Oregon Museum of Science and Industry in Portland, Oregon. It was one of their displays for a long time. OMSI moved expanded and changed focus. I:'m not sure if it's still there...

Here you go! The local Hobbytown had some in stock today. the I.D fits the standard MPC wheels like the new five spokes they put in everything (seems like it) - I measure at .620 but the slicks fit tighter than the front tires. Fronts have good tread - O.D. 1.045 (26-1/8"), tread width 0.300 (7-1/2") Slicks - O.D. 1.190 (29-3/4"), tread width 0.435 (10-7/8") Good sizes for what I need know. Hopefully they do some larger slicks and wheels in a future parts pack.

Yep, that's the way I drill them out. It's difficult for me get the drill started in the center. The point of the knife blade makes it possible to remove material closer to the edge of the hole and get it lined up for a uniform thickness. A sharp blade works best.

That's really cool, well done use of parts, has the stance and colors

that is looking good The SCR injector stacks for the Buick are really tiny - maybe 1-5/8" in scale. You'll probably need the regular size SCR stacks. One of those times that it may be best to get both.

OK, this is where I was trying to get to- - just another two cents, maybe... Just Evergreen tubing and rectangular stock. Four equally spaced injector stack bases that can be detailed out, triangles added, then cut off the fixture and added to the base as one piece. Tubing can be drilled for the injector stacks.

sorry, I started a post and it wasn't working - thinking out loud, will be back later... that's a cool manifold! just a heads-up for now. ...from your post and Ace, the base you have started will fit under the valve covers. check a mockup now with the valve covers see if it all fits and how much material must be added to make the manifold thicker where it attaches to the heads - but that's a good thing because you can add the bases for the injector stacks to that piece as a sub assembly before you add it the manifold base. just two cents, maybe

ahhh, the Action Man, Kenny Goodell A favorite in the Northwest. Goodell didn't run the car very long before he returned to funny cars. The car was sold to Steve McGee who ran the car without the wedge. The wedge body was a hassle to work around and slowed the car down. Very cleanly built and well done.

It's been a while, but I've had good results with Krylon Dull Aluminum as primer for the Testors metallizers. It seems to bring out the metal look in the metallizer. Dull aluminum also works as a cast aluminum finish by itself. Can be difficult to find.

This is kind of taking Steve's idea above and mixing with the ignition box Greg Pugh built on the dashboard of his Monte Carlo - cut a finned section from a valve cover and add a frame. Some valve covers don't look much like a real valve cover, but have good finned material.

another idea - How 'bout 28 or 30 gauge titanium wire? surprisingly, it appears to be readily available online and relatively inexpensive. It may be easier to work than piano wire. I found some long ago when Boeing had a surplus store - they sold it by the pound but titanium weighs nearly nothing - wanted to use it for a slot car but that project never happened. I really like the weathering on your diorama. well done.

it depends... If it's a part with a lot of very fine detail, I try to avoid adding an extra coat of paint if I can get away with it - thinking about paint and material compatibility and all that chemistry stuff. Some primers (like one of my favorites Plasti-kote T235 gray) go on heavy and have a lot of surface texture that covers up detail.

Love it, your changes are a big improvement over the stock kit, well done - it reeeally looks good

In addition to rules changes already mentioned, tire and chassis technology were going through a big change in 1965. The new wrinkle wall style drag slicks started showing up and offered a lot more traction. It just wasn't as necessary to raise the front end to get a car to hook up. The front ends started coming down and gas class cars started running a more level attitude. You'll see some of both in 1965 but the extreme lifted front suspensions were mostly gone. Looking forward to watching the progress on your coupe - love the Pontiac

Thanks for another enjoyable great set of pictures.