Muncie

Although the tins are different around the roll cage, that appears to be it.

I think the Revell chassis is kind of generic from around 1972 to 1974. They used it in a lot of kits and continued it past 1974 when the real thing started using chassis that were extended with the fuel tank ahead of the front axle. If it's anything, it is the chassis from the Whipple and McCulloch's Duster Revellution Demon which was Revell's first funny car. Car Craft, March 1972, says it is "Woody" (Race Car Engineering) chassis but other chassis builders used a similar design.

pages 9 thru 12

pages 5 thru 8

well, here goes. Anybody else have a better idea how to post these, let me know. not a Logghe chassis, but the plumbing details still apply. Please, Please, Please don't quote this post in a new post, let me know if you don't see anything. Revell 1/16 funny car instructions

Oh my… great information, thank you for posting. Love the restoration pictures

JC, Tom West's X-ray drawings are beautiful! Your link for the 1/25 instruction has all of the detail that is on the 1/16 instruction sheets. Good to know. It's interesting that the 1/25 sheet that I just checked didn't have any ignition or plumbing detail. Must be some do, some don't.

I think it has been posted around here - there is a good set of Tom West's early 1970's funny car reference photos from the old Straightliner model builders forum - excellent detail shots from a model builders perspective. They were from the time that he was working on the 1/16 Aurora kit projects. Googling his cutaway drawings will also provide a lot of information. The Revell 1/16 scale instruction sheets have good ignition wiring and plumbing details that weren't included in the 1/25 scale kits. The Aurora 1/16 instruction sheets are probably just as good, A Google image search for Enderle injector diagrams will have lots of information on the fuel system plumbing - in the '70's, it wasn't as complicated as it looks. hope this helps

We live in an area where everybody knows everybody so stopping to talk in the grocery store is part of life. People leave room for other shoppers. About 6 months ago, the grocery store finished the first remodel in about 12 years. That will mess up your grocery shopping. It used to be a very efficient organized layout. Now it's an agonizing experience. The new aisles are all unequal width, some very narrow with displays in the middle on both sides, some wide or open space for no reason. Add a couple of vendors stocking bread in the aisle and just plan to get bread next week. Things are no longer in logical places, there are fewer items, vegetables aren't as fresh, and they are out of stock more often. Went for my favorite coffee yesterday, nope, hundreds of kinds of coffee, lot s of new ones, but don't have that one any more. I hope the person that designed the remodel has to shop there. The biggest new roadblock now is all the big carts from the employees pulling groceries for customer pickup. These carts take longer to bag and bin the groceries in the aisle The employees do their best but the carts are unavoidable. I'm starting to shop other places

yeah, probably worth doing a search here and checking out the Perry's history... sorry to hear that it sounds like he's up to his old stuff.

Pat, is this plastic or diecast? It looks like it might be a chemical reaction with baking soda and the base material.

Before anyone starts cutting new door lines - Five window coupe and roadster have the same door opening dimension and the shorter doors. Three window coupe, cabriolet and 2-door sedan have the same door opening dimension and the longer doors. I believe the door opening dimension is at the beltline. The perceived door length is affected by the angle of the car in the most photographs. Back to the source, Reference Ford literature from 1936... Door opening dimension: Tudor Sedan 40 inches Cabriolet 40 inches Three-Window Coupe 40 inches Five-Window coupe 34-1/4" Roadster 34-1/4"

wow, that's really vague in the instructions - one of the cylinders (the one on the rh side) on the radiator support could be/is probably the receiver dryer for the air conditioner system.

decal artwork looks great! maybe a little too tall... Freightliner offered three sleeper heights - standard = height of the cab, raised roof = closer to the top of a van trailer, and mid-roof = could almost stand up inside but lower roof for operations with flatbed or tank trailers. Your 1:1 photo is a mid roof. Maybe lower the top until there is about 6 feet of standing headroom inside. I wish I had the actual sleeper dimensions... The sleeper roof in the kit is a custom top manufactured and installed by Sloan's. Not installed by Freightliner, but you could get a new truck delivered to Sloan's for a sleeper roof, upholstery and custom paint before it went to the dealer.

Best to strip anything primed with the Rustoleum so the Duplicolor goes directly on the plastic. Duplicolor makes a couple of different flavors of primers and different builders have different preferences. Some primers are made to spray on thicker so they can fill sand scratches and other problems - but they also fill in molded detail. The 1699 primer-sealer comes out a little thinner, less sanding after primer. A sealer is intended to be a barrier and block anything under the sealer from showing thru the top coats and to also prevent the top coats from attacking anything below. Light coats to start and then start building up layers. I've never been a fan of Rustoleum but that doesn't mean it won't work over another primer. There is a much better chance that Rustoleum paint (not bonds to plastic) will work over Duplicolor primer than the other way around. I'll admit that I'm probably biased, but my opinion is that any of the hardware store paints that say bonds to plastic are meant for plastic shelving and other utility plastics, not the fine work that we do. My rule of thumb for paint advise is that if you have 15 model builders in a room that can all do great paint, there will be at least 15 different methods and none of then will work for anybody else. Experiment, find what works, and that's what you do.

wow! bet that wouldn't happen if you wanted it to... I've seen that before - it's incompatible primer and paint... always a possibility for disaster when mixing brands. Use the Duplicolor 1699 Primer sealer. Skip the Rustoleum primer. Looks like no damage to the plastic so a quick trip thru some Super Clean (the purple pond) will get you back to bare plastic.

Here's more on the engine mounts. Håkan and I have exchanged a couple of messages. Let's break installing a big-block down to two era's - before side-mount engine conversion kits and after. Side mount installations are better but kits for a 1955-56-57 Chevy didn't become common until the eighties. Side engine mounts could be done before then, but it took some fabrication and welding because bolt-in kits were not available. So this is the way we did it 50 years ago. Hope this helps... Back in the '60's and 70's, there were Hurst engine conversion kits. This is the front engine mount kit for a big block in the tri-five Chevy. Bolts to the front of the block. https://www.hotrod.com/articles/vintage-tech-hurst-performance-swaps-new-396-v8/ -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- another photo from the same source - bellhousing and rear engine mounts - this looks like an aftermarket cast scattershield from the internet forum www.tri-five.com --- Stock rear engine mounts with big block Chevy and Lakewood Bellhousing. Notice how the headers have to drop below the bellhousing engine mounts. Lakewood adapter kit for stock engine mounts on a Lakewood bellhousing - if you think the countersunk holes weaken the bracket, you're right, mine bent with just a small block. The aluminum plate on the back of the bellhousing is an adapter to install a T-56 6-speed transmission - from the tri-five.com forum. Notice he also added a transmission crossmember in the above picture.

I'll agree with that - seems like an odd choice for a parts pack, but I need a couple of sets. wish they had been easier to see in the video. Hopefully this means more wheel parts packs are coming - like to see some good newly tooled Cragar five spokes

what Casey says filling in a few blanks --- Any of the old Monogram NASCAR GM stock car kits have a good Lakewood (like the red one in Casey' notes) style bellhousing and GM four speed - there may be some other parts that you can use. There were several ways to adapt a big-block to a tri-five Chev. The early kits used a Hurst saddle type engine mount at the front (which had two mounting points on the frame) and the standard rear engine mounts on the bellhousing. It takes an adapter kit to use these engine mounts with a Lakewood bellhousing. I'm not aware of any of these parts in any kit. Some installations added a crossmember at the rear of the transmission. A Camaro/Nova crossmember mounted on angle iron welded to the chassis was one way to add a rear transmission mount. Radiator notes - Stock V-8 radiators mounted aft of the core support, 6-cylinders had the radiator ahead of the core support. Big blocks require the 6-cylinder radiator location for fan clearance. I believe it's as simple as flipping the core support in the Revell kit. hope this helps

Tim, thanks for the great review. Don't hear about this museum often, but it is huge with a lot of great cars. It's the same Gilmore that sponsored several AJ Foyt Indy cars.

That's a great tip! It's going to get used around here.

Krylon Dull Aluminum is also my go to - Ace Hardware, some stores have it, some don't. Good results, easy to use.

more on the side windows - the side glass behind the doors was two pieces - one window for the rear passenger and the stationary quarter window aft of that which curved into the tailgate pillar. The 210 series had roll-down rear passenger windows - they only rolled down part way - kid safety I guess. On the 150, the rear passenger windows were fixed. There was a thin divider painted body color between the side windows.

Casey, - great answer, my first car was a 1956 Chevrolet two-ten 2-door wagon and I agree with everything. Mike, great project. The tailgate on the regular wagons was more vertical than the Nomad. It is a difficult shape to get correct in scale. The Star model SD body looks like a duplicate of the body that Modelhaus made. Need to soften the peak on the top of the front fenders. It needs the quarter panel trim added (it's the same as the Revell DelRay) and it is a little too flat at the top of the tailgate below the rear window. I'm also thinking two door - the post in the side window is narrow - it would be wider and further forward on a four door.

here's a case of knowing too much to give you a good answer... The kit, including the engine, is not a good replica of a CF tractor... It is more of a standard day cab with CF decals. It even has some deluxe features which are nowhere near CF's style. The standard color for a Cummins inline (kit engine) in a Freightliner would have been Cummins Beige in the 70's. The Cummins inline extended past the back of cab on the day cab COE's. In most applications , it didn't matter but CF used a very short wheelbase. They used Cummins VT903 and Detroit Diesel 6V engines for clearance to the trailer (if I remember the math correctly). Freightliner painted the chassis on the production line with the engine installed. The engine and radiator were taped and masked off but there was a lot of overspray around the edges The transmission and axles were painted chassis color. You have a very good start and your truck looks great. I'd continue with your plan. If you want the engine red, go for it, it would look good.