Muncie

fiirst, thank you for posting the reference pictures - there is a lot of good information in them. I kinda dig those metalflake steering wheels as well. Red was a good combination. The green combination was pretty awful with avocado upholstery and a bright green steering wheel - it was the '70's. Brakesaver was a Caterpillar hydraulic retarder located on the back of the engine - a very complex, expensive, and rare option that basically did the same function as a Jake Brake on a Detroit Diesel. I'm going to have to leave the details to the internet. The story I was told was that Detroit Diesel had the patents locked up for the Jacobs Compression Brake. Eventually Jake Brakes became available for Cummins and Caterpillar engines. Here is a diagram for the brakesaver oil routing. The oil in the Brakesaver was routed thru the oil cooler on the engine which dumped it's heat into the cooling system so the radiator had to be larger to take the heat away. The hydraulic brake added four inches to the rear of the engine. Caterpillar engines were considered the premium option and a Brakesaver was a premium on top of that. The Caterpillar Brakesaver had significantly greater retarding power than a Jake Brake but the exact number has escaped my memory.

did you check back with Competition Resin? how long has it been? more details...

Is that Competition Resins? Their web page has always looked kind of old - haven't heard that they were done. Always had good service. Competition Resins products are also available from Slixx Decals.

That would be the Vega engine with the Opel (GM Europe) sourced 4 speed transmission - All of the MPC Vegas, with the parts for a stock version, have this engine. Not sure, but the Monzas may have had the GM Saginaw 4-speed or an automatic transmission. There should be plenty of these engines in parts boxes out there, I don't think too many Vegas were built stock. One should show up if you can move this over to the wanted section.

everything already said - patience and be OK with sacrificing a few rivets.

The "P G" logo is for P & G shifters - late 60's...

Fireball Modelworks has the white letter tire decals - http://www.fireballmodels.info/

The Dupli-Color sealer primer 1699 also goes on very thin and is compatible with the kit plastics that I've used it on. Beat to test on a kit part that your not using. I'm not sure about the Tamiya primer under the Dupli-Color top coats.

Looks good. The wood grain makes it. Love it!

In general, I'm going with the ten year recommendation, but it could be less under certain conditions - Just took a tire in for a flat repair - ten years old and two tires shops that I trust wouldn't touch it - nothing over ten years old. One checked for leaks where the nail was and no leak there. The other, where I bought the tire, checked the whole tire and found nothing, but it had been losing air for some time. They mentioned sidewall leaks - which could mean the tire materials were breaking down. The car sits outside, that tire had the most exposure to sunlight on a hot driveway, and it doesn't get used much. Fortunately it was a good time to replace tires. Glad I did, the new tires are much better than the old ones ever were. so, my list of thoughts - - ten year old tires not only have the deterioration of age, heat, ozone, oxygen, - they were made from the best technology at least ten years ago. Twenty year old tires... Thirty years old - same math. - if a tire keeps losing air with no apparent damage, the materials have started to break down - at some point a catastrophic failure will occur. - http://car-storage.com/article/tire-dry-rot/ a good summary on the causes of tire aging and it includes a reference link to a 2007 NHTSA report to Congress on tire aging

I think I see the same thing - the Round 2 website doesn't have a lot of information about what is in the box. It's been a long time since I've looked there because it doesn't tell me very much and isn't easy to use. There are 352 instruction sheets on the support tab - all in kit number order - They are difficult to find by kit subject. It's not a user friendly web site. Round 2 could try a little more. Some of the small hobby shops around here have gone to a "we'll order it for you" system. They are keeping very little model car inventory so there is no box to look at.

but you mention it over and over and over - we get it...

judging by the price, that is an old package on a model car, they would work fine, no loss in performance...

The Replicas catalog from May 2017 shows: RM-114 1/25 Weber carbs and manifold for small block Ford - in my hands, it has the correct 48IDA down draft carbs P-11A 1/25 Weber carbs - DCOE side draft type - perhaps somebody can comment about them... P-11B 1/25 Weber Carbs - IDA down draft type - same carbs as RM-114 P-133 4 cylinder hop-up kit - for the AMT Meyers Manx - these are also correct down draft type I've bought parts from Norm for let's say 30 years - always great resin and a fun guy to work with - he'll always call if there is a question. The only thing I don't like is that he's on the other coast and I probably won't get a chance to meet him in person.

Awesome - great pictures and lots of them! thanks for the posting a rare opportunity to see the show on move in day

I can't answer your question with any confidence but here are a couple of thoughts. - best to do a spray out on test part to see if the color comes out the way you want. - Candy paint is somewhat transparent. The color of the base coat will have more affect than adding clear. If you can get a look at a copy of the House of Color paint chip book at the paint store - it will show the Kandy colors over different base coats - the difference in color is amazing - some are much lighter over the white base coat. Not sure if this is an approved application but the only experience I've had adding clear to a color is for the final color coat before the clear. Adding a bit of clear brings out a bit of depth to the final finish - the clear has to be the same type of paint hope this helps

sorry if this derails the serious discussion but it seems like a real kit opportunity - imagine four or five kits in a box...

looking good! Actually, your core support is pretty close as it is - Stock, V-8's had the radiator mounted aft of the core support and inline 6's had the radiator mounted ahead of the core support. It's a simple swap to change the core support and radiator for more engine clearance.

Facebook will give you enough access to see contact information along with the annoying pop-ups to join Facebook - the M&S email used to be there, but I see Facebook is forcing the Facebook messaging center as well. Marc is a good guy and will take care of your concerns. I hope you ordered the P/E detail set as well.

Bernard, check their facebook page - there is contact information there. But give them time, he will get back to you. turn on your PM -

Funny car on a stick sad to say, this is what happened to the Satellite body for Twig Zeigler's Pizza Haven Funny car from https://bangshift.com/general-news/roadside-find-funny-car-on-a-stick-the-muffler-hut-funny-car-sign-in-centralia-Washington/

A couple of ideas to go with the good information that has been posted. 1. The Satellite roof is a little lower and further forward than the Revell funny car bodies - the real thing is the same. - you may want to take a cut our of the roll cage, 1/16" to lower the body a bit. Wayne's chassis lowering trick is also a good idea. 2. Cut the donor tin into two pieces at the bottom of the vertical firewall to separate the firewall from the rest of the tin that mates up to the chassis around the driver - cut and trim the pieces to fit the body mocking up with the chassis as you go. Eventually, the mock ups will tell you where the panels will line up and if you need to do some scratch building with sheet plastic. Shouldn't have to replace the whole thing. 3. some of the Satellites had the engine mounted forward of the engine location in the early Revell chassis - I like that look and it may make fitting the tins easier.

two Holley carbs end to end won't fit on the Edelbrock C26 manifold for small block Chevy in the top picture - there is not enough space between the carbs and the Holley float bowls interfere. The manifold is made to fit with AFB carbs. The primary carb (AFB)(with choke and opens first) is the rear carb. Somebody made the Holleys fit with carb adapters to rotate the carbs but on a dual plane dual quad manifold, cross mounted carbs are bad news for distribution in the manifold. However, on a tunnel ram manifold with an open plenum for racing, I believe the top picture is still the preferred orientation for the carbs.

Man, that's cool - very well done

He will be missed - we've all seen his drag racing photography, x-ray illustrations and his work in the model car industry - including the Aurora 1/16 funny car chassis from the NHRA Insider archive - https://www.nhra.com/news/2013/man-x-ray-eyes https://www.nhra.com/news/2013/man-x-ray-eyes-part-2 Tom West posted reference material over at the Straightline Modelers website when it was active - the archive of what's' left is here - http://web.archive.org/web/20110622053842/http://straightlinemodeler.org/ (credit to Brett Barrow for the link)