Muncie

Yep, that's the way I drill them out. It's difficult for me get the drill started in the center. The point of the knife blade makes it possible to remove material closer to the edge of the hole and get it lined up for a uniform thickness. A sharp blade works best.

That's really cool, well done use of parts, has the stance and colors

that is looking good The SCR injector stacks for the Buick are really tiny - maybe 1-5/8" in scale. You'll probably need the regular size SCR stacks. One of those times that it may be best to get both.

OK, this is where I was trying to get to- - just another two cents, maybe... Just Evergreen tubing and rectangular stock. Four equally spaced injector stack bases that can be detailed out, triangles added, then cut off the fixture and added to the base as one piece. Tubing can be drilled for the injector stacks.

sorry, I started a post and it wasn't working - thinking out loud, will be back later... that's a cool manifold! just a heads-up for now. ...from your post and Ace, the base you have started will fit under the valve covers. check a mockup now with the valve covers see if it all fits and how much material must be added to make the manifold thicker where it attaches to the heads - but that's a good thing because you can add the bases for the injector stacks to that piece as a sub assembly before you add it the manifold base. just two cents, maybe

ahhh, the Action Man, Kenny Goodell A favorite in the Northwest. Goodell didn't run the car very long before he returned to funny cars. The car was sold to Steve McGee who ran the car without the wedge. The wedge body was a hassle to work around and slowed the car down. Very cleanly built and well done.

It's been a while, but I've had good results with Krylon Dull Aluminum as primer for the Testors metallizers. It seems to bring out the metal look in the metallizer. Dull aluminum also works as a cast aluminum finish by itself. Can be difficult to find.

This is kind of taking Steve's idea above and mixing with the ignition box Greg Pugh built on the dashboard of his Monte Carlo - cut a finned section from a valve cover and add a frame. Some valve covers don't look much like a real valve cover, but have good finned material.

another idea - How 'bout 28 or 30 gauge titanium wire? surprisingly, it appears to be readily available online and relatively inexpensive. It may be easier to work than piano wire. I found some long ago when Boeing had a surplus store - they sold it by the pound but titanium weighs nearly nothing - wanted to use it for a slot car but that project never happened. I really like the weathering on your diorama. well done.

it depends... If it's a part with a lot of very fine detail, I try to avoid adding an extra coat of paint if I can get away with it - thinking about paint and material compatibility and all that chemistry stuff. Some primers (like one of my favorites Plasti-kote T235 gray) go on heavy and have a lot of surface texture that covers up detail.

Love it, your changes are a big improvement over the stock kit, well done - it reeeally looks good

In addition to rules changes already mentioned, tire and chassis technology were going through a big change in 1965. The new wrinkle wall style drag slicks started showing up and offered a lot more traction. It just wasn't as necessary to raise the front end to get a car to hook up. The front ends started coming down and gas class cars started running a more level attitude. You'll see some of both in 1965 but the extreme lifted front suspensions were mostly gone. Looking forward to watching the progress on your coupe - love the Pontiac

Thanks for another enjoyable great set of pictures.

Wow! great idea - I can think of a lot of uses - thin brass or aluminum, even Evergreen plastic sheets - cuts straight and square - it would be worthwhile to keep a small cutter like this near the workbench for scratchbuilding work. Thanks for the tip.

brass? only .010"? I'm thinking brass because it looks like the only material K&S offers sheet or flat strip in .010 thickness. This answer works for brass .010 thick which is pretty thin material... A decent set of shears will do the trick easily. Best not to use your wife's best sewing scissors or her craft shears but even a cheap set of scissors in good condition will do the job. Scissors will leave a smooth edge, but sharp - careful. It may take work to flatten the curl in the edges but that's not a big deal with this material. Either a little hammer work on a hard surface or rolling a cylinder over the edge with the part on a flat surface. On the pin size holes, a drill will work and the hole should be round enough. On the 1/8" hole, a drill may not leave a round hole in material this thin - drill undersize and use a small needle nose round file to file to shape, size, and location. Most hobby round files that I've seen are 1/8" on the large diameter.

weekend huh? OK, guaranteed you can find a worthwhile car show here with a cup of coffee and a donut - Donut Derelicts, corner of Adams and Magnolia in Huntington Beach, every Saturday morning, it takes over a small shopping center parking lot. 7ish AM or earlier and done by... well, whenever the shopping center opens - so definitely gone by 9:30 or 10:00 AM. Plenty of Street Rods and other cool cars - so cool and big enough that it has it's own tee shirts and web site. https://www.donutderelicts.com/

more good stuff here ---

agree completely, well said. I'm not complaining with what Fireball offers, it is excellent. We could use some good drag racing Holleys - both tunnel ram and Dominator carburetors.

Almost - but both of the Fireball carbs above have vacuum secondaries with the large diaphragm housing. In the early to mid 1970's, Jenkins and most of the tunnel ram small block Chevys used R4224 Holley 660 cfm center squirt, 1:1 mechanical secondary tunnel ram carbs with secondary metering blocks added, choke housings cut off, and other modifications. I don't see such carbs in Fireball's list but I hope Joseph offers them in the future.

Poppy red - https://www.sw-rodandrestocustomcolor.com/colors/PCCL32 Hugger Orange - https://www.sw-rodandrestocustomcolor.com/colors/PCCL50 I painted a K&K Charger Tamiya red based on what I saw in the pictures - it never looked right... Then I learned the K&K cars are poppy red.

Stock or pro-stock, somebody is probably going to be disappointed. The original Bruce Larson kit had the rear wheel wells enlarged for the slicks - including nicely finished molding around the opening. The pro-stock chassis and interior were basically stock but also modified for the slicks. It looks like MPC reworked the wheel wells back to stock for the later model year kits and promos. Then just roughly hogged out the wheel well opening for one last gasp as the Twister Vega. I like seeing the new bodies - what can be seen in the Round2 photo looks good.

absolutely - you can't really go by pictures with poppy red. With the film and printing methods available in the '60's and '70's, poppy red usually prints red in pictures, but it is definitely orange. A very red orange, but it is more orange than red.

Prior to 1982, the overall width limit in most states was 96 inches. After 1982, the federal limit of 102 inches applies most places. Overall length for straight trucks is regulated by the states - usually 40 feet but your state may vary. There are grandfathered limits, permits and other exceptions. Western Star built the cab-chassis for straight trucks and a truck body-builder installed the flatbed.

Dave, beautiful color, looks great, background diorama really shows it off.

Hey!, Mom had one of those! In the late 70's, we had it on it's second or third life. It was an old state car. I don't believe it was a police car, probably a much more mundane office of government. There must have been at least two because it was a different color. I wasn't into decoding production codes so I can't tell you much about it. I can verify that it was a 318 two barrel.