Muncie

Rally wheels on Impala or Caprice were 15x7. They were the disc brake wheel - required for brake clearance - if am Impala had Rally wheels, it also had disc brakes. Standard steel wheels were 14", 14x6 on the wagons. 14" wheels would only fit drum brakes.

I'm hoping, but not holding my breath for a 1967 Caprice wagon - It looks like the Supernatural kit is set up for that as a next step. I had a Caprice wagon (and a parts car) long ago - black, gold inside, wood grain, mag wheel covers, big block, automatic, air, 6 way seat, power windows, roof rack, and tach dash. Started with a $400 car and put my overtime checks in it on a mechanical and cosmetic restoration. That thing was hard to find parts for and dealing with the anodized trim around the woodgrains was... interesting. I think Round 2 could put the trim for the woodgrain on the decal sheet with the woodgrain then it could be a Caprice or an Impala. The impala wagons that I saw had the same interior.

You've come to the right place to ask that question. Pretty universally, everybody here is a builder and that's the answer you will get - I agree with what's been said - go for it. You have a nice start with both the Fairlane and the Barracuda.

Interesting project, thank you for posting the link to the Corvette pictures. AKA "the flying toilet" - The throttle body installs in place of a carburetor on a regular manifold and the injectors are installed in the manifold runners near the cylinder heads. Requires regular mechanical fuel injection pump and plumbing. Hers's a set from Ron's Fuel Injection Systems - http://ronsfuel.com/flying_toilet.cfm

Casey, thanks for reviving this topic - good memories. That definitely wasn't when we were there - there were no shadows on that day and the parking lot was ful .

It's very possible, I was young then and it was a long time ago. I do remember that it kind of kicked my butt with my very limited skills at that age. I think you had to wrestle all three legs into submission at the same time.

Here's some information that may help... It looks like there is a compatibility problem between the paint, primer, and plastic - the thinner in the paint is lifting the primer - the thinner could be getting thru the primer and damaging the plastic in some areas. Lacquer thinner will attack the plastic so the primer needs to be a good barrier. A sealer will help (or prime with something like Duplicolor's 1699 primer sealer). This could also happen if the primer is thin and the sanding scratched thru the primer. The texture in the paint looks like not enough thinner and too much pressure. (so I also agree with Bob - the paint is dry before it gets to the body) With the paint and air brush that I use it's 3 parts thinner to 2 parts paint and 18 psi sprayed at a distance of 8 to 12 inches. Sometimes weather conditions require adjustment to the mix. Donn Yost has a video available with good information about painting with Model Master enamel and lacquer thinner - his techniques work - there are also lots of YouTube videos. Bottom line is if you ask fifteen model builders how to paint, you will get 25 different answers. Keep working with it and learn the materials and techniques until it works for you.

That's looking really good! Awesome. Great choice on the color.

Great Pictures Marc. Those must have been interesting times - thank you for posting.

hmmmm... "Gangbusters"... does that mean we might see some accessories and a motorcycle? (just hoping)

More on Jocko and his streamliner courtesy of an article in Autoweek https://www.autoweek.com/car-life/a1876556/throttle-back-thursday-meet-jocko-johnson-desert-dwelling-would-be-philosopher-king/

The linkage connects to the throttle shaft on the passenger side and then the linkage to the other carbs is on the driver side of the carburetors. Thanks for the picture, I also need to figure this out for a future project. https://www.stromberg-97.com/product-index/linkage-kits/?cat=linkage-kits-6x2

So sorry to hear that Tom, I also have a couple of people the local post office that have become friends. They are great people to see when I'm running errands. I would miss them badly even if it was just a move to another building.

Tom, just to cover all the bases, check with your insurance people to see if you are covered for damage from the neighbor's tree. I have a friend who's roof was damaged when a neighbor's tree fell on it - his home owner's insurance covered the repairs, not the tree owner. yeah, I thought that was odd.

that is the frame from the XR-6

This will be worth watching. We were kind of a Mopar family when I was growing up. My parents had a 1960 Dodge Dart Seneca wagon, 318, three on the tree. Two-tone Ivory with turquoise metallic top.. It's the car that I learned to drive on. Thank you for your history, it brought back lots of memories. I have two resin 1960 Dodge wagon kits. One is probably old Modelhaus the other is probably from somewhere else. Someday...

Erik, This is an excellent reference - thank you for putting it together and posting. It will be very useful.

Von Dutch, 65 years ago - some stories on the web - plenty of original/restored 300's out there, but only one painted by Von Dutch. Some say that's a good thing, but I like it.

great song to go with a Sunday morning cup of coffee in these times. but I enjoy listening to the Grateful Dead. The Dead channel is the #1 preset on the radio in the car - lots of extended concert recordings that are better than what plays on regular broadcast radio,

Looks great - lots of style and color

Alan, Great topic and a lot of cool AMT 1932 Fords. I like the way you've put them all in a background. Looking forward to seeing your custom Tudor. Here's something kind of different - the wheel selection really lets you know when this was built. It was built on a one month schedule for the local club meeting theme - 1932 Fords. Fortunately it was one of those odd months with five Sundays. It is clearly an IMC Lola T-70 with an AMT 1932 Ford roadster. I was more interested in the shape than detail because detail would take away more than it added. The interior is also molded and the belly pan is finished and painted same as the top side. Most of the putty was A+B epoxy which could be shaped with a wet thumb but dried hard as steel, Green stuff putty was used for some of the finer shaping and this is where I learned greens stuff will shrink. It is painted with Ditzler automotive acrylic lacquer and the seats are Ditzler sealer.

WOW! https://alexameade.com/

Sandboarder - thank you for the answer. That explains why I see some Gundam that look like the same kit at the same scale with a much different price - the difference is the features and detail. I understand that there is a whole story in a Japanese TV (or internet) show behind each model. Good guys, bad guys, intergalactic wars...