Muncie

Awesome! lots of reference information and inspiration in those photos - thank you for posting

I like this Cobra and pickup set - I'm hoping this goes over really well and we get to see some new combinations along with the old favorites... that would be fun!

a fogged edge can be done by lifting the edge of the tape and spraying over the back side of the raised tape. Changing how much the tape is lifted and the spray direction will change the width of the fogged area. better control with an airbrush but it's not impossible with a rattle can In the end, I agree, best advice - experiment to find the technique you like for the results you want and practice for consistency...

WOW! stunning, simply stunning. very nice work - you nailed it on the styling and body work --- the numbers... (in a good way) give it the attitude

Chad, thank you for posting the photos - good to see what's in the box. add my name to both lists - I like the pickup kit (LHS has my name on their list already) and I would also like to see a kit of Madame X - looks odd on the display at SEMA - way better on the road and in person.

This is looking good, build looks great - I like it, definitely on my list - thank you for the photos and review I like the idea of a simpler kit with good detail like this one - better chance of me finishing it...

Scott at Futurattraction has some great tires (and other products also) with great customer service. His slicks are wider and perfect for later drag cars so that might be your preference.

for the Monogram Snake and Mongoose F/C kits... Aftermarket solution... The Competition Resins CRT-501 slicks - will fit the kit wheels and look good. They are a soft black resin - size is like the Monogram slick used on the more modern funny car kits, but narrower, The more modern Monogram slicks always look too wide on the early funny cars and dragster so these are my go-to tire. Comp Rresins are also available at Slixx

huh? NNL West is scheduled for 2/3/2018 in Santa Clara, California...

Actually, I like that idea better - it doesn't take a very strong magnet to hold the door closed. The miniature super magnets seem strong enough to pull loose from the adhesive holding them in the door - or worse, strong enough to pull the panel out of shape or create a sink mark over time with a constant pull.

one magnet will be strong enough - only needs a piece of steel for the other side and polarity won't matter.

funny thing is, I don't think anybody called them muscle cars until they became collectible in the new milineum... Surely anything built after the insurance rates, gasoline shortages, and emissions regulations strangled horsepower in 1972 is not a muscle car.

Halibrand quick change 12 second quarter and 140 top end in 1963... gotta have it

All of the reasons mentioned already - for me, affordability and the chance to build something that isn't available in a current kit. I'm with Snake 45 on that Corvette - he's had some interesting preservation projects lately. just some thoughts here - Looking more closely at the AMT '32 roadster in the topic post - the body has the molded in trunk lid that only came in the early issues, maybe only the first issue in 1959. History, probably not rare, but a least uncommon. Later issues had an opening trunk lid. There were also a couple of early issues that came with a tonneau cover for center steering that will cover up all of the ugly on the body around the interior. It may take another glue bomb or a lucky find in the right parts box to get one, but they are out there and an easy fix. Personal preference here - the grill shell in the old black plastic kits are shaped a little better than the later reissues - they take a lot less work to look right.. Any readily available AMT roadster kit has everything else. Full disclosure - I have a project like this on the workbench right now. EDIT - OK, I've made it thru the rest of the new content on the forum in the last couple of days and now I've seen the "original" post in for the '32 roadster in the photos - It's rebuild is in progress and its going to be good. Not the molded in trunk like I thought but still cool.

yes, same here for one of his kits, do some research here on the forum for Time Machine Resin - suggest you stick with Ebay if you can't live without it.

Matt, yes the instructions are dark, fuzzy, and the pictures are impossible to figure out.- very poor copy - looks like a forth gen photo copy from the original kit - but they are what the latest issue came with. to complicate things, the rubber bands for the blower belt were in the bag with some electric motor parts, didn't even look like a part for the kit... But, still grateful to have the kit and it will get built someday. I'm enjoying your build up, it's looking good, I like it! Steve

The thing that tricks our eyes with the AMT White Freightliner COE kit is the width of the cab. The cab is a 61 series at 90.38" wide which has not been commonly seen on the road since the late 70's. They are rarely, rarely, rarely ever seen anymore. In the mid 70's, Freightliner introduced the 71 series which is wider at 94.38" and included the rubber fender extenders that cover the front tires. The cab was widened to provide adequate room for the larger radiator required for the modern higher horsepower engines.

splitting Evergreen (say 1/8 or larger) plastic tubing freehnad is a pretty straightforward deal with a thin fine tooth hobby saw - lay the tubing on the bench and don't aim the blade at any vital body parts - leave a little bit extra to straighten and cleanup the line with a long fine tooth file. Might be easier to split the tubing to a semi circle then split that to get a 90 for a corner piece - Now I'm not working to make four pieces out of a length of tubing. One corner piece per length is success for me. Also works with hobby aluminum tubing.

All good ideas - but sometimes I go all in for the least delicate workshop method for precision material removal - Warning, this might be overkill... the part looks like a wheel back so appearance on the other side is not a concern - If chiseling it down doesn't work, I just drill all of the way thru with the diameter of the raised mounting boss, then replace it with hub cut down from another wheel back to fit the axle. It is recommended to drill under-size and file for size and position of the hole.

Thanks, Ron - That will work - You've done some nice clean work - I had trouble with the "carefully" part - more to fix.

I really like this one - well done - it's got soul! as a Chevy guy, the 1949 and 1950 Ford kits had little interest for me 6 months ago - I liked them when I saw one well built but that was it Well, about 3 weeks ago the reissued '50 convert found it's way to the work bench and then the '49 followed it home. Through the forum, I was able to obtain the original Carson top for the convertible. So, I have a question - Both kits have holes in the chassis to lower the front, but there is nothing in these new kits to lower the rear. What is the best way to lower the rear - Thank you in advance, Steve

The rubber bands probably work better to hold the frame together... I don't like the idea of tension on the rubber band belts pulling the glue joints apart over time on the engine assembly Making a belt (more electrical tape?) might be a better solution - anyways, thank you for the inspiration. - looks like a fun kit.

A quick look over on the H.A.M.B shows this street blower set-up on a 292 http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/blower-set-up-for-292-312-y-block.441284/ Just popped open one of the kits - it has a couple of tan rubber bands for the blower belt and a full 360 degree belt guard on the chrome tree. Matt, I'm liking your project - it's going to make me move mine up on the build schedule.

The thinner in automotive lacquer color coats will soften a lacquer primer - once it gets thru to the plastic, it starts affecting the body work or single stage lacquer base putties under the primer. I prefer a sealer after the primer and then start with light coats of primer so they dry before the thinner gets to the plastic - but it's still possible to see some read thru if I start applying too much paint too quickly. Your paint supplier may have some advice or a good sealer for their paint. Plenty of information here information here in Bill Geary's tutorial -http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/topic/22834-1949-mercury/ more here ----

How 'bout... Preservation - a rebuild with some new parts and upgrades that keeps the character of the original model but is not a restoration. (but, I like snakeslap)