rsxse240

I used to have one of these way back in the 80s. I never bothered getting another one, but now that I'm older, I'd love to find one and play around with it.

Just a little ebay surfing should lead to you finding a hatch with your front end quite readily. In fact, until recently, you couldn't find a Mustang coupe at all, without it being a Tootsie Toy or 1/32 scale snap together. Here's a link to one on ebay. At the time, there was one bid for $10 http://www.ebay.com/itm/VINTAGE-1979-MONOGRAM-MUSTANG-COBRA-1-24-SCALE-MODEL-KIT-/261648566673?pt=Model_Kit_US&hash=item3ceb784991

It was a very common lift back in the day and a quick Google for "twin i-beam lift kit" should turn up quite a bit of reference photos. There are lots of methods but they are all basically the same...space the pivot points with some sort of bracket.

That's awesome! I recall when my boy entered his first contest. He didn't get an award, so he never wanted to build another .

A good engine needs a good stand!

ahh, that was close, I was nearly bumped from the first page. haha Little update. I got some pics of the chassis that I modified and I went ahead and cracked open another Cobra vert kit so I could show you the difference in the chassis pre and post modification. this is a side by side comparo. The un-sullied is the white one, the tainted is black. You can see I cut the section out where the white plastic is on the black chassis. I cut about 2 or 3mm at the rear of the back seat foot well. after doing so, I realized I should have cut somewhere else to save the detail, but I just trudged on and made a new set of foot wells. They look the part to me. I took this shot to show exactly what material I had to remove to make it fit the chassis. The black colored section is what was removed. The body fits perfectly at the chassis' pinch weld, so I just chopped the sides off smooth with the lip. As for the fenders, it was a slow process of sanding and test fitting, sanding and test fitting and more sanding and test fitting. It was a slow process, but worth the time. Here is a comparison of the rear end. I didn't want to try to fit the stock rear 'trunk area' to the custom rear bumper, so I just chopped it off and decided I'll deal with it later. I wanted to get my wheel base correct. I know it's not much of an update, I just really wanted to post it up for you guys.

That thing needs to be mounted on a 4x4 frame with 33" super swampers. It's as big as a Chevy Suburban! All jokes aside, its a nice build, I'm glad I took a peek.

I sincerely hope so! i cant fid anyone to part with their frame so i can copy it to build the one i have!

Update: Rear Bumper, roughed in, still, very much a work in progress. I have the basic shape and some styling but still a long way to go. I was thinking center exit exhaust, but the gas tank is going to be so close to the rear end, it will be impossible, so side exit may still be an option. I may decide to scribe in a "frenched" bumper and apply some BMF. We shall see. I also placed the hood on the body. It looks right at home there

I think you're going to need a good sand blasting, probably some rust repair panels, and a lot of cutting and welding. seriously though, looks great.

Your paint looks darn good! You may have seen my build, the Elenore II. I'll be updating it pretty soon with the chassis out of a 94/95 mustang. Getting it to fit was quite simple. I can't wait to see what you have in store for us.

I know, Mike, I just put them on there to check fitment, and I thought they looked pretty good. If I can get another Mustang II kit, I may use them and build a mild "realistic" every man car with a healthy motor swap, some racing seats, maybe a cage, just all the things you'd see on performance modded cars, not show stopping super builds or maybe a home built drag car. Thank you all for your support. If not for you guys, I'd probably have packed it back in and started another model and not finish it.

You must love '57 Chevy gassers. I spy another one in the window. I have hated these kits from the time they were put on the store shelf for the first time. I guess now that I see someone taking the time to do one right, I can give them a bit more credit. You're doing a great job! Keep it coming.

Not a LOT of progress, but I did get the hood done, minus paint, of course. I used Tamiya fine gray primer, the stuff is great, I have to say. You may also notice that I made up some side skirts. I used strip styrene and carved/sanded the basic shape. I am debating weather I should go side exit exhaust or rear exit. Likely going with rear exit so I can break up the slab of a rear bumper I am building, which I'll be having an update on that very soon. Pics: You may also have noticed some wheels. I was using the chassis, axle and front suspension from the chassis donor kit, the revellogram 94 mustang GT/95 Mustang Cobra (I had a few partial kits laying around), to check wheel clearance and wheel base. I shortened the chassis by about 3mm and simply cut the sides off down to the "pinch weld" and then trimmed the wheel wells for a perfect fit. I think I'll be building my own interior, but using some aspects from various cobras throughout the years. I'll have pics of the chassis when I actually start working on it.

very cool. Not many of these kits being built. VIP meet? I'm down, I'll bring the Leopards.

Michael, you basically have it right, but always paint the darker color last, unless you are doing fine detail work like airbrushed dragons or murals. By putting the dark color down first your lighter color will darken and take on the hue of the base/darker color. If I did that paint job, I would lay tape on the model, mark the doors and other land marks on the tape, peel the tape and lay it on a glass surface, draw the flames on the tape, taking consideration to the shape of the model as you would not want the flame tips ending in the wrong spot. On the model with the base (lighter color) already done, carefully place your mask making sure the tape seals well against the model. I typically shoot a bit of base color at this point to "seal the tape edge" so the top coat has less of a chance of bleeding under the tape, but that is not necessary if the tape is good. Now shoot the top color (the darker) in fine mist coats to prevent bleed under, once you have a few coats, give it a good "wet" coat and let it dry to touch, but not cure. Peel the mask as soon as possible or you stand a chance of pulling the top coat off with the tape.

I think you've been had! I'm just kidding. I've never heard of Waco kits, but being that I'm on this side of the puddle, there's a lot I don't know about models where you are.

I can't recall if the Mustang II was Iacocca's baby or if it was the Fox platform (Grenada, Monarch, LTD II, Fairmont, Zepher, Fox Mustang, T-Bird, Cougar, and countless other cars) was his idea. Either way, Ford railroaded the Fox platform out the door in favor of Ghia's Mustang II design. Ghia was on someone's Christmas list and he was being a good kid the year Ford called for a re-design. Had Ghia NOT been in some corperate exec's pocket, the Fox platform would have been in the showrooms 4 years sooner. The Nissan/Infiniti lineage comes to mind, as I am a Nissan fanatic. I personally have parts from at least 7 different nissans bolted to my 93 240sx. Just the 240sx line carried 7 different body styles, but that basic chassis design was used throughout the Nissan rear drive car platforms. Even the venerable R32, said to be the first of the "GODZILLA" line of GT-Rs shares the same platform as the 240sx. But in a technical sense, the same chassis design goes all the way back to 1980 with the Nissan S110 Silvia. I know you guys are about ready to kick me off the boards for comparing the Mustang to some rice burning foreign jobber so I'll leave it at that. How is it I've been building my Mustang II kit now for about a month, maybe more, and I have only just now stumbled on this thread? lol

should be a production date and the lack of bar code.

I was visiting my uncle in Tennessee and he was a sign painter back in the mid 50s. He has a large gallon can of black lead based sign paint that as long as he seals the top, it's guaranteed to stay fresh. when he puts the lid on, he shakes the can and it seals the lid with lead paint. any paint that is exposed to oxygen will harden and make a lead seal that is impervious to air or any other gas. He told me he bought it in the late 50s and still has half a gallon. (he only uses black for details aperently)

Well, that's gonna have to be watched when I have a HDMI cable to hook up my TV.

That motor is outstanding! I may have to dig out the old scrapped big scale 57 and stuff the motor into a "Tooned" '32 Ford or something.

it's a real shame about the paint. I was really looking forward to the finished car. I, like most everyone else, hope you can save it. If not, think of what Thomas Edison said about his experience with inventing the lightbulb. "I have not failed. I've just found 10,000 ways that won't work." - Thomas A. Edison

I was at work today and one of my friends/coworker stops me and said he had something he thought I'd like. So I followed him to his office and he handed me a FIRST RUN issue of the Revell BRE/Datsun 240Z! I was just flabbergasted! I've seen many of them in the past, but all have been re-issues. This one was absolutely complete, the box in near perfect shape, instructions, decals, the whole enchilada! I wanted to offer him some money, but since I didn't have any to offer, I proceeded to tell him the value of this kit. I wish my camera/phone was working, but it wasn't. I may still offer him some money, but he's an avid race fan, so he'll likely end up keeping it. While I was looking at that, he pulls out a post card that has the Sox & Martin Barracuda and I think it was a Charger. Then I noticed it was autographed in BALL POINT PEN by Ronnie and Buddy themselves! My jaw hit the floor! I don't know that this will top the Sox and Martin postcard, but the then pulls out an autographed ad for Hertz Rental with a picture of O.J. Simpson and his signature in silver paint pen. I guess when you grow up racing, you are open to all kinds of cool things because you are basically the "star of the show" and racing events and when fame shows up, they typically get the run of the place. I'll try and get some pics if possible. I just thought I'd share today's experience.

Cragars and the likes were cool, but the real goods were the Torque Thrusts by American Racing. But when Cragar finally released a 17" version of the SS, with larger diameter spokes rather than just bigger hoops, I was VERY happy....until I saw the price. The ones that you refer to as the Pro touring size are probably the Pegasus Chrome or Gold T's. They're available in 2 sizes, roughly 17" and the others are probably 20 or 22 inch. The Chrome/Gold T's are modeled after the Torque Thrust II from American Racing.