rsxse240

I hate vettes. but yours is fantastic, I may just end up building one some time. I love the stance and ridiculously huge wheels. got the popcorn in the microwave and the 64 oz. abyss boy Dr. Pepper.

I did a short write up a while back on making your own templates using a smart phone a sharpie and clear plastic notebook dividers. The techniques are all going to be personally preferential. Not difficult at all, but very time consuming and wasteful.

Dang, I'm gonna have trouble with my '50 Chevy pickup. I utilized fine tip sharpie for lots of marking and measuring.

I am a mechanic by trade, so brake fluid cleanup is a regular duty in my line of work. Since good ol dot-3 is extremely hygroscopic, the best thing to use for cleanup turns out to be warm water, soap will help get any oils or contaminants from the plastic, then a wipe down with isopropyl alcohol (not rubbing alcohol as it has oils and moisturisers).

For the time that the F100 came out, it was quite a good kit. Sure it was wrong, but at the time, they didn't have the ability to create computer models that were completely finished to perfection and then the molds made with c&c mills and super processors. However, with the tech of today, why on earth is the new Fox Coupe looking like it has a chopped top?

That is one slick T-Bird! the other two are cool, but very wierd

MRC put out a sieries of rim/tires a while back that had cragar ss, keystones and one other kind of wheel, and like 3 different types of tires. Probably find some on eBay. ...edit... Just looked, at $30/set and up as high as $50/set, you'll be better off buying a kit.

I am not sure if the plastic in that kit is polystyrene, abs or what ever kind of fancy plastic they're coming out with these days, but I do know if it's a softer plastic, you'll have a much more difficult time getting rid of that ghosting. I would let the primer dry thoroughly then sand with probably 800 or 1000 grit and knock the high spots off of the ghosting, then re apply the primer, let it cure and sand the high spots again and just keep repeating this until it's gone. Sometimes as many as 5 coats/sanding are required. I am USUALLY able to get rid of ghosting in this manner. Something else to think about is that when your sanding, use a very solid backing substance when you're leveling surfaces, otherwise with a soft backing, you'll be sanding the valleys as well as the peaks of the imperfections. Light pressure also helps in this process because plastic actually compresses slightly under pressure, specially some of the cheaper stuff models are being made of these days.

Looks great! I may have to order one if it isn't in the hundreds of dollars when complete

I wish more companies would recognize the S-chassis as a great subject matter, but all the people I know who have real ones wouldn't touch a model unless it could move on it's own or if it was already built.....dang video game generation. edit: Sorry, I LOVE your builds. I just get so frustrated with the lack of desire to use talent in today's kids...or at least the ones I see on a regular basis. I am a very avid S13 enthusiast/owner. I have a 1:1 s13 coupe with silvia conversion, KA-T and many many more modifications. I have built several, and have given the majority of them as gifts to friends in our club (nismokc.com) sorry for the thread jack...carry on! NICE CARS!

Very nice build so far! I really like the idea of printing on marbleized wood grain. You could scale up or down to get the texture just right. Print on a decal or like you did and just cover it with celo-tape for a perfect gloss that won't mar up! I'm borrowing that next dash board I build! I think when I scaled the wheels out that came in this kit, they were like 13" at the outer edge of the rim which would make them essentially an 11 in rim (measured at the bead seat) and sadly makes them WAY too small for a car of that size. I actually used these wheels in a 1/32 kit and made it like a protouring style, turned out great!

VERY nice! Just don't get upset when you can't find your thread when they move it to the trucks section. It happens to all of us from time to time. What did you use for the "line-x" texture? It looks great! I typically use un-thinned acrylic craft paint (like apple barrel) through my external mix, siphon feed Paasche with a #5 tip and about 15PSI. I love the bagger look on these boxy Chevies and yours is certainly shaping up!

This is one of those cars that made people realize what NOT to do. all that weight out in front of the steering axle is just asking for trouble. Now, what I want to see is a 6 engine unlimited class tractor pull tractor on slicks at the drag strip! 6 9000hp top fuel V8s going at one time on pavement! do the math....54THOUSAND HORSEPOWER!!!!! Now THAT would be worth the tickets to see it run!

Very cool! To be honest, when I first saw the viper bumper, I kringed a little. You have, however, done a wonderful job of making it fit the style of the beetle. It actually looks as though it was made for the car. Keep it up and you'll have a kustom klinic winner!

Looks like it's a survivor with the dust in the corners, slightly foggy glass, not quite perfect fit for the door. I like it a lot!

That's a mighty large turbo for drifting! Perfect for drag racing though. Too much boost lag for the on-off-on throttle action of drifting. I love everything you've done so far. I can't wait to get my Rocket Bunny FRS, until then, I'll just keep on looking at yours for inspiration.

I was originally questioning why this was being done, then I realized how much work would be required to convert the lower half of the body of the R/M fox Cobra to an LX hatch. You're doing a great job! Do I see a resin body coming from this build in the future?

I love this thread! All the detail of the bodywork is so visible with the primer. Highly motivational

One of my favorite Metallica tunes! The 67 is a great choice for the Death Mobile.

The rear tank is a fuel tank, the front tank is something else, I would venture to say the spare tire well. As for the paint pooling, maybe your paint is getting applied too quickly or heavily. You could have a bad can of paint with not enough propellant causing poor atomization. But really, red paint should never be applied over gray primer, it almost always comes out with a gray tone.

Looks like a Porsche 914

that paint is freakin' gorgeous! You are doing a great job, I can't wait to see more progress

I couldn't agree more! I have so many ideas on just about everything from preparing food, building real cars as well as models, drawing, building houses, playing guitar and most everything else in life. The frustrating part is that no one wants my input, so yes, building models is my primary method of creative expression. I guess I'm one of those guys who can't leave well enough alone. Yes, modeling is very therapeutic, It is my meditation. Being that I'm a person that HAS TO BE DOING SOMETHING at all times, modelling keeps me out of trouble preventing me from tearing things up around the house trying to make them better.

Glad I can help, Joe. I messaged you back. Here's that link for anyone else who wants to see it. http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=905115 I hope this doesn't violate any forum rules. I'm sure it will be ok because I'm HELPING hahaha

I have only one question about your wrapping tape. How are you going to make it black? Nothing will stick to teflon. A while back on Automotiveforums' model car section, someone had explained the procedure on doing this and I'm pretty sure it's the same as what you are doing, but the tape was something that was paintable like bible paper or something, I can't recall. I'll see if I can find it again, if I do, I'll share a link.