hedotwo

Fortunately I won't have to worry about hubcaps as ours had plain steels painted white. Thanks for the tip though.

A bit more progress on the topper overnight.

Turned out great!

Some progress on the beginning of the topper for the truck. After much experimenting with the curvature needed to bring the top to the sides I ended up using 90 degrees of an 11/32 Evergreen styrene tube. I used a hole template to mark off both ends of the tube, which wasn't easy to ensure the cuts ended up fairly straight along the lines. Using the tubing had the benefit of holding its' shape after cut and being able to glue the "step" strips. I used masking tape to mark the cut lines and then used various PE saws to make rough cuts. I then finished by using my dremel VERY lightly with a fine drum sander to meet the tape. I ended up with two sections that I was happy with and added two strips to each to provide strength to the joints where the top and sides attach to the curved sections. I also made the templates for the front and back end panels. Lastly, a pic of a sheet of Woodland Scenics dry transfer letters/numbers that I'm reluctantly going to use for the side C/10 emblems used in 69. I guessed the height of the 1:1 emblems to be like 2" high, which works out to approximately 2mm high in 1/25. This sheet has the 2mm I needed, plus it had both white and black. Not thinking of an alternative to this sketchy way of replicating the emblems, I'll use the white letters against the dark green final paint of the truck. I may experiment with trying to paint a few of the letters silver and see how that works when transfered. Not holding out much hope on that . I'm a ways off from adding the transfers to the cab so if anyone has a better idea I'm all ears (well... eyes).

Thanks Rog but I'm one of the oddballs that aren't too concerned with the underside as long as things sit level when finished. Mostly because of my trouble dealing with smaller, fiddly suspension pieces. Probably why I enjoy the old annuals. Years ago I never had that problem but many of us older folks know that your steadiness and dexterity can change as you age. Mine has. So I stick to things that are easier to fit and handle. We all build to what we enjoy doing I guess. ?

Read your thread more than once and am amazed at the detailing you did. I know I don't have the skills or patience to do the same.... congrats! Here's a look at the minimal chassis.

Don't expect much for the interior. I know I'll replace the buckets with a bench of some type but will likely leave the door panels. Not sure I have the patience to do them. Once this ends up in my display case no one will likely get within 2' of it so (to me anyway) there isn't as much reward for the time spent on them. I know the parts of building I enjoy, and those I don't really . Your mileage may vary of course..... Oh, and mine had the 307 with 3 on the tree of all things.

I've started on a project I've been hoping to do for quite some time. It will be a replica (as close as I will take it anyway) of a 69 base C/10 that my wife and I owned early in our marriage to tow a 16' Winnebago trailer. I was able to make a trade with DRIPTROIT71 (thanks again Brian!) for an MPC 70 CST trimmed Chevy that will need to be backdated to a 69 along with eliminating the custom trim level. I also scored a diecast 64 Winnebago from VON ZIPPER (thanks again Chris!) that, other than the accent paint scheme, is a great replica of ours. As part of the build I'll be scratch building a replica of the topper (aka cap, shell) we had as well. In all the years I've been building (starting in the early 60's) I don't remember building a truck of any kind, so this will be a first.

If you're referring to vintagemodelcarparts on ebay his name is AJ McPherson I think. I've bought from him many times on ebay and he's always come through for my needs. He can be a bit slow sometimes on shipping but it's not a big deal to me.

Thanks Mark

Draining an old container of Super Clean I found this little guy at the bottom. I used the Super Clean quite a bit and I have no clue what it is. Hard to see in the pic but there is screening in each square.

Test

Might have been worth a try but they're already gone

I've used card stock a number of times for license plates and it works good. That's a good suggestion for these emblems.

I was replying to Mike C about the 64-66 emblems. The C/10 emblem photos you posted Greg are what I need. Thanks

Those wouldn't really work anyway. To my knowledge the '69 and '70 C/10's had the same, or real similar, fender emblems. I'm looking for just the C/10 itself... no bowtie or "custom" or "cst". I'll likely have to make up some decals as I've searched and searched.

Well, I guess I'm going to need to make up decals or buy a 3D printer

Nice!

Getting ready to start my next project and was wondering if anyone knows of an aftermarket vendor that has plain old '69 Chevy C/10 front fender emblems. PE or resin. I'm backdating a '70 MPC C/10 Custom to a '69 stripper C/10. Thanks

Finished up on the build of my first brand new car, bought in December of 1971. Good little car that unfortunately rusted away before it failed me mechanically. Started with an AMT 71 Pinto kit and added tires and wheels (thanks Steve... aka Rodent) I believe from an MPC 74 Pinto, a side pipe (needed to be shortened), scratch made bumper guards, and finished with MCW Bright Lime gloss lacquer. The interior is Tamiya White Primer and Ceramcoat Hunter Green craft paint and then cleared with Rustoleum Matte Clear. I made up the fender "flag" decal and replicas of my real license plates. Overall happy with the results especially how well the color replicated what I remember the Pinto to have been. It's a great addition to my builds of vehicles that I either owned or a family member owned. Still many left to build however...

Welcome!

I've used these Gundam acrylic markers a couple times and have liked the results compared to Sharpies. I picked them up at Hobby Lobby for like $3-4 each. The tip is crisp (hard to see in the pic but it's not a ball point type) and the paint has laid evenly the few times I've used them. I haven't tried to remove the paint so far but I would imagine it will be easier than the Sharpie ink?

Thanks for the heads up guys..... I'll pass then.

Lovin' the color choice and the masking of the trim to detail (and the clean work area)!

Another great trade with Khils! Not our first, likely not our last.