hedotwo

These were on a real junker '61 Tbird. Are they the custom wheels from that year? Or kitbashed from somewhere else? EDIT.... added another pic of another wheel. A Ford? Thanks!

So I went ahead and did the quarter panels. Turned out ok, but not great. I used a PE razor saw to remove the old quarters and fortunately the body trim kept the saw nice and straight. I sanded down the height of the ribbing a bit and bent the pieces just a bit by laying them on a 1/4" rod and pushing hard, just enough to get them to wrap under instead of being flat. Not the smoothest result, but better than nothing I guess. I added a couple of 030 strips to add strength to the pieces when I attached them.

Thanks for the suggestion Chris... had I known this I may not have bought a sheet of the corrogated, although I can always use it in the future. Turns out the Merc rear bumper is the same as the Evergreen sheet as far as rib spacing and depth so I'll just use the two pieces I've already cut from the sheet. Just hoping to get them to bend under a bit to match the existing. This project is next in line on my bench...

I made a template with foil of the rear quarter panels, taped to the ribbed sheet and then cut and sanded to fit. Now, I just need to do the cutting of the existing panels (gulp) and then trying to get a slight bend under on these 040 thick pieces. If they don't bend and stay I may try and sand them down to a thinner thickness and try again.

I picked up a pack of the 030 ribbed sheet and it looks like it should work with a bit of effort. The ribs were finer than I thought they'd be. This is the smallest Evergreen makes, and it didn't look like Plastruct had anything similar. Thnaks Steve, Rich

This is a great idea... I'm going to be going to my local (even though it's 250mi away) hobby shop this weekend and it's a very well stocked shop that has lots of styrene from Evergreen and Plastruct. Maybe I can find something there. Thanks Steve! Rich

I like this idea and it's probably worth giving a shot. I used to do german armor modelling years ago and got pretty good at recreating zimmerit by dragging razor saws across putty. Trouble is, I didn't really care if the zimmerit was straight or not. It never was in real life anyway. But I could try on sheet styrene and even putty again (but the putty will need to be just the right consistency to get it smooth and straight I'm guessing). Thanks

I'm about to start on a 59 Merc convertible that has a bunch of skirt rash. I've done a hardtop 59 previously that had about the same amount of rash that I chose to just remove to smooth, then foil with a matt chrome. Before I start the work on this convertible I thought I'd ask for any suggestions on how to possibly recreate the fine texture on the lower portion of the fender. I'm attaching a photo of Steve Guthmiller's beautiful 59 for what it should look like. Thanks!

After a long delay getting going again on the resin 77 Caprice I began last summer I thought I'd switch the progress over into this category. I'm attaching the link to the thread in the Q&A category that I began last summer. I left off where I was trying to correct the width of the grille to try and get the side marker lights more flush with the fenders rather than being so proud (pics of this are in the other thread). I took the width of a razor saw out of a section of the headlight assemblies. The two saw cuts were perfect to bring the side marker lights flush as they should be. I reinforced the back side of the grille with a couple of strips of styrene to be able to get the 3 pieces lined up good and for strength. A bit of Bondo and sanding followed and I'm happy now. After modifying the width of the grille I found that the rear bumper didn't fit quite correctly either. The body had a high spot right in the middle that kept the bumper from seating properly. Not sure if you can see from these following photos but I definitely could ?. A bit of riffler file work did the trick. Next up I'll try and post some pics of the body painting and problems I ran into when drilling into resin ?

Not sure what parts you're lacking, maybe just the engine? The later issue 65 Riv has parts that work. I have the annual 63 Riviera engine but it has the FI setup. It's yours if you want it.

Roughly how many vendor tables would you say the show averages? I'll likely go regardless, but just wondering if there's usually a selection of older stuff and not just new release stuff. Rich

Will do! Thanks again

Long shot, but would anyone have a junk annual '61 Impala body, or just part of a junk body that has a decent driver's side A pillar I'd be able to salvage for a 4 door promo Im hoping to restore? The later issue Lindberg and AMT won't work. Best to have part of the roof and fender where it attaches to also, although I'll take what I can get. I have lots for trade otherwise Paypal ready. More than happy to pay your postage. Thanks! Rich

Thanks Steve!

Any shows/swap meets or must stop hobby shops in the Phoenix area this March and April? Really love to find a shop that has old annuals and parts for same. Thanks!

Thanks Steve

Is this the correct stock cover for both '58 Fairlanes? Both of mine have them.

Did the '58 amt annuals come with two different choices for wheel covers? I have both pontiac annuals, impala hardtop, edsel convertible, and both buicks. All of these had the common tri-bar covers when I picked them up. I have both fairlanes and an impala convertible that do not have the tri-bars but have what seem to be the stock covers. So, I'm confused. I'm usually a stickler for correct, stock wheel covers and I just keep an eye out for covers I need. It looks like some promos from '58 didn't use the tri-bar but rather the stock covers. Or is it that kids building these (I'm only 71 so I wouldn't know ?) only built the kit using the tri-bars instead of the stock and then tossed the stocks? The '58 buicks for example, and maybe the impalas. Can someone help me understand ? I'll attach a pic of the tri-bar, impala stock cover, and the buick stock cover. As usual thanks a bunch!

Cool stuff, thanks for sharing!

Thanks!

Any idea what it's from? Thanks!

Tamiya Modeler's Knife Pro Replacement Scraper 2 TAM74161 Knives/Blades

You're right, I guess only Tamiya's pricey ones. These are just a smidge wider than a typical #11 blade, so unless you can either widen your holders a bit, or narrow the blade, you're stuck unfortunately. I guess I didn't realize this as I already had Tamiya holders. Thanks for pointing this out.

I spend the majority of my hobby time restoring glue bombs that usually require lots of bodywork. I may be crazy, but this is the part of the hobby I like best. Because of this weird passion I've aquired a ton of tools to deal with all sorts of repairs and I thought I'd gotten all I need. But, I recently picked up a pack of two Tamiya scraper blades from Amazon and I'm sold on these. They're super sharp and just require a gentle drag back and forth on a seam line, or whatever, and it's gone. So far they seem to hold their edge really well too. Maybe these aren't new to a lot of us, but they were to me. I still like my assortment of riffler files equally though. Just my two cents.....

Thanks Bill!