hedotwo

Nice!

Getting ready to start my next project and was wondering if anyone knows of an aftermarket vendor that has plain old '69 Chevy C/10 front fender emblems. PE or resin. I'm backdating a '70 MPC C/10 Custom to a '69 stripper C/10. Thanks

Finished up on the build of my first brand new car, bought in December of 1971. Good little car that unfortunately rusted away before it failed me mechanically. Started with an AMT 71 Pinto kit and added tires and wheels (thanks Steve... aka Rodent) I believe from an MPC 74 Pinto, a side pipe (needed to be shortened), scratch made bumper guards, and finished with MCW Bright Lime gloss lacquer. The interior is Tamiya White Primer and Ceramcoat Hunter Green craft paint and then cleared with Rustoleum Matte Clear. I made up the fender "flag" decal and replicas of my real license plates. Overall happy with the results especially how well the color replicated what I remember the Pinto to have been. It's a great addition to my builds of vehicles that I either owned or a family member owned. Still many left to build however...

Welcome!

I've used these Gundam acrylic markers a couple times and have liked the results compared to Sharpies. I picked them up at Hobby Lobby for like $3-4 each. The tip is crisp (hard to see in the pic but it's not a ball point type) and the paint has laid evenly the few times I've used them. I haven't tried to remove the paint so far but I would imagine it will be easier than the Sharpie ink?

Thanks for the heads up guys..... I'll pass then.

Lovin' the color choice and the masking of the trim to detail (and the clean work area)!

Another great trade with Khils! Not our first, likely not our last.

I've found that if you minimize handling by pre-fitting those pieces that need it, will really help maintain the Molotow shine. That and being sure to wash your hands really well to eliminate alot of the oils before handling pieces. I found some tight fitting thin cotton gloves that I'll use also. Like most of us I dry the pieces as much as I have patience to. The dehydrator definitely shortens the time. Once the build is finished and in my display case I no longer worry about handling, although other folks find that an issue down the road.

Just what I'm in the market to purchase. I'll have to run to town tomorrow and see if they have it. Then again, gas to drive 25 miles one way (even in my Civic) to HL puts a dent in the Alumilite savings Thanks for the tip Mark

Slow progress, but progress. Spent time getting the interior to fit correctly to allow the stance to be better than what the kit wanted. This AMT 71 kit is basically pretty sketchy when it comes to stock stance. It was way too high to look natural IMO. After getting the stance where I wanted it I began work on the side pipe, having to shorten the length more to what I had. Also foiled the side marker lights and used clear orange and clear red. I made the flag "sticker" decals for the front fenders and applied. Last thing I was able to finish was cutting the headlights to allow them to fit deep into the headlight buckets rather than the stock "bugeye" look. Hoping to get more done this coming week... Below is a mockup of the side pipe before I cut it shorter.

Just finished a great trade with Brian (DRIPTROIT 71) and wouldn't hesitate to trade with him again. Thanks Brian!

I think Bill covered the "mechanical separation" of parts really well. Patience is probably your best tool . I've done many of these disassemblies and for the most part they all differ in how you approach taking them apart. The type of glue used varies as does the ease of disassembly. I've seen many types used and obviously the amount used. My most commonly used tools for disassembly are the straight chisel tip xacto, a set of small screwdrivers, various saw blades that are held with your knife holder, dremel, and the thin saw/scribe blades sold by Tamiya and Hasegawa. Clear glass removal can give me the most heartburn and I often just throw in the towel and mask off the glass really well after polishing. Not sure why but it seems we used WAY too much glue on glass as kids

Same experience I had. The durability seemed better than Molotow and the shine was close enough for me. Alot of times you really don't need a full chrome shine on trim pieces anyway. I've found that finger oils make a big difference in handling these types of pieces, especially Molotow. That and ample drying time helps as well. These aren't for everyone, and everyone seems to have opinons about this type of chroming, but they have their place as far as I'm concerned. Having these markers during this period when BMF is still sorting out their issues is great. If BMF returns to their previous self I'll likely begin foiling again. Definitely quicker to use the marker rather than foil but foil is forgiving when mistakes are made. I will say that while these Gundam EX markers may be a type of ink like Molotow the tips are different. I've used mine a few times now and although I'm beginning to see the tip show signs of fibers (I guess there has to be something like this to maintain fluid while using) it's still chiseled nicely enough to maintain a straight edge. How long the tip remains like this is to be seen.

Welcome!

Got around to getting the color laid down. It's a horse apiece between MCW paints and Scalefinishes and I use them both equally. This time I used the MCW Bright Lime, which was the correct '72 Pinto color that mine had. The first pic shows the difference between Tamiya's light gray and white primers. Not much difference on the photos but in natural light you could see the spoon on the left that had the white primer, came out a bit more yellow which my memory says was more correct. The right spoon had the gray primer. I was a bit concerned choosing the white and hoped it wouldn't turn out too yellow on the body but the greenish tint came through just enough with the white. Also worked a bit on the door stripes and rear window trim. Nice change from the big chrome barges I generally build in that there's very little brightwork on these little strippers. The following pic shows me using a regular Ultra Fine Sharpie to do the black window seal but after the pic was taken I switched to the black Gundam marker I'd picked up at HL for $3.99. It's a paint (their website says acrylic) marker rather than the Sharpie being ink. I really like the way it applies compared to the Sharpie in this case. The pic of the Gundam isn't the greatest but the tip is pretty fine. I picked up a gray one as well.

Thanks guys!

Other than the '66 AMT annual Galaxie were any of the reissues molded in white? I know the AMT/Ertl version is red. The "new" R2 release maybe? Least I think it's an R2... has box art similar to the annual. Thanks

Update... finished the bumpers to my liking and now moving on to the body work. Tried to flatten the leading edge of the bumpers to ready them for the 1.5mm black chart tape to replicate the bumper strips. Down and dirty way to do the bumper strips rather than my first idea to use styrene strips. I used Testor's Dull Cote brushed onto the tape to take the sheen off. The end result looks good from a distance but could've been better. The 'ol arthritis sometimes has different standards than what I'd like to accomplish with smaller parts and such The front posed a bit more of a challenge because of the sequence doing the painting of the grille, bumper "fill in" piece and the bumper itself. The lime green was done first and I tried masking off as best I could before doing the rest. That green was important IMO. I used strips of 1mm masking tape to leave the plastic bare where the guards would go.

Welcome Pascal!

Just a bit of progress... worked on the bumper guards a bit today. Used some 060x156 strip and made the needed notches and angle to have it mate up to the bumpers. I added a small strip of 040 half round on the face of guards. I'm happy with them. Flattened the leading edge of both bumpers in preparation to adding a bumper strip.

Seems really close to the '64 we had. Thanks!

Thanks a bunch Chris!

Anyone here have one of these 1/24 Greenlight '64 Winnebago travel trailers? I'm just wondering how the 1/24 trailer would look with a 1/25 pickup. Sometimes the scale difference can be large and sometimes not.