Quick GMC

This makes sense, thank you. I wasn't too concerned about it, but yes, the sections are shorter and not as robust looking. I can make a new driveshaft to compensate for length. I was really happy to get this since the kit lencos are a little lumpy and it is difficult to sand the seams without making it obvious. I forgot to order the bellhousing, so I am ordering that and some other pieces.

the 250 TR set was the only one that was a lot, around $100. The rest were not too bad, with the most expensive being around $27. I buy most from http://www.mediamixhobby.com.sg/shop/index.php I have been buying from them for years. Shipping is fast, prices are great and it gets here quickly. It's like a mini HLJ, they show actual stock on items. The Toyota GT1 I bought on Ebay for $70. It came with the Scale Motorsport set, the Sakatsu set and the Scale Motorsport carbon fiber template set. Pretty good deal considering I can't find the Sakatsu stuff anywhere. I build up shopping carts on various websites and when I have the money, I'll buy from one website at a time. Sometimes I have to wait 6 months or more before I can afford it. I have the Honda RA272 full detail set on the way as well, and the new BOSS 302 set from Hobby Design.

that's the first thing I thought, but it's a much larger discrepancy than one scale unit.

Someone mentioned in another thread that Shapeways is introducing Frosted Extreme Detail. They are eliminating the Frosted Detail, keeping Frosted Ultra Detail and introducing the new Extreme Detail. Pricing will most likely be significantly higher, but it is reported that the Ultra Detail is 29 microns high, and the Extreme is only 16 microns high, as far as print lines go. This is a huge improvement. I took this picture from the Shapeways forums. This is 1:48 scale and shows the difference between the frosted ultra and frosted extreme detail You can see the biggest difference in the legs

I never even knew about that. Pretty cool.

there are so many safety features that don't get attention, that people don't know about that have a HUGE impact. • Ford developed a system that "bends" light as you turn around corners. It directs the beams in the direction you turn the steering wheel and advances the angle so you can see better when you are turning corners. • Mercedes developed a system that is used in most high end cars today. The ABS and brake system is tied in with the windshield wipers. There is a light refraction sensor behind the rear view mirror. hen a water drop lands on or immediately around the sensor, it sense the light refraction in the water droplet. This gives the info to set off the windshield wipers. the more often it senses the refraction, the faster it pulses the wiper motor. BUT, it also sends th same info to the brake module, which in turn lightly pulses the brake calipers. It doesn't do it enough for you to notice, but this acts to squeegee the rotors clean of water to keep them dry and warm (friction) in the event you need to slam on the brakes while it's raining • Jaguar developed a system that was introduced in the 2004 XJ. It is called Panic Brake Assist. There is somewhat of a vacuum booster for the brake system, but what it does is when the computer senses 95% ( I could be off, maybe 97%) brake pedal application (DBW, drive by wire, no brake cable) it opens a valve and dumps all the vacuum from the intake manifold into the booster and it the brakes get nasty. This reduce the 60-0 stopping distance from 260 to 170 feet (Exact numbers could be slightly different). This is the difference between life and death. It took nearly 100 feet off the stopping distance. We got to test this when I was at factory training. Stand on the brake pedal and the rear of the car will stand up and the car comes to a stop in an insanely short amount of time without a peep from the tires.

This isn't today specifically, but my most recent purchases. I didn't include the TDR stuff, that can be seen in the aftermarket and resin forum. My Scale Finishes collection so far Acu Stion super detail kit + Hobby Design pipes for the Hasegawa TR 250 Hobby Design set for the Tamiya F40 Crazy Modeler set for Fujimi BB512 Hobby Design set for CLK GTR Hobby Design, Scale Motorsport & Sakatsu detail sets for Toyota GT1 I am waiting on the detail sets for the 911 GT1 and i forgot to take pics of the R390 GT1 sets I have.

I have a Revell Pro Stock? Tony Foti Camaro. I just bought the TDR 3D printed 1/24 Lenco tranny. It is way smaller than the kit tranny. I am wondering if the kit transmission might be a bit on the larger side, or if it is pretty accurate? I'm worried the parts I bought might be too small and look funny. I don't want to chop up the kit pieces until I can confirm.

The Lenco tranny is definitely not the same size as the Lencos you find in the Revell kits. Too short when assembled, which is something that could easily be dealt with, but the diameter of the sections are very small compared to the kit parts. about 6 months ago I bought the 1/24 Weber set with the manifold and everything and that is VERY small. I am going to use the 1/20 for my 1/24 Cobra build. They are a tiny tad on the large size, but much more accurate than the 1/24 set. I think the TDR 1/24 Weber carb and manifold kit is probably for a 289 FIA Cobra.

i use Tamiya primer and Scale Finishes. The only time I have experienced this texture, including Zero paint, Scale Finishes and a couple others, is when the paint was drying too fast, before it hit the model. I am by no means someone who should be giving paint advice, but I have been through quite a bit with airbrush painting to get where I am today. To fix this problem when I had it, I adjusted the PSI by sound/feel instead of looking at the gauge, opened up the paint flow a bit more and held the airbrush closer to the model. I was spraying too far away, my PSI and paint flow weren't in the right ratio, so I was getting a sandy texture because the paint was too dry when it hit the model. This will not allow the paint to flow into the cracks and crevices like I see in your model. Scale Finishes base coats dry very quickly, so you need to adjust accordingly. Also, another thing' If you paint too soon after the Tamiya has time to set, so it can go through and craze the plastic. I have experienced this with Zero paint lacquers, but not Scale Finishes.

Check this out. Not TDR but I am buying some https://www.shapeways.com/product/GDEBAP2FV/1-24-scale-u-joint-set?li=search-results-4&optionId=42266514

laptops are not worth the money when they are that old. Ditch it and get a new one. Mine is still great after 3 years, but I paid $1200 and put an SSD in it. It's funny, the charging port had to be replaced, the keys are worn out and the case of the whole thing is starting to warp. It's the first computer U have had where the electronics outlasted the mechanical parts. Microsoft just announced the new Surface 3 tablet. It starts at $300 less than the Surface Pro 3 and has nearly the same specs. Once they come out with the wifi/4G version with the 250GB SSD version I am buying it. Much more portable than what I have now and I am traveling more these days.

this is the best I could I could do, it's hard to take pics of these parts. I edited the photos These are all 1/24, except the Webers and stacks are 1/20 Halibrand quick change rear end with rotors and calipers Holley carbs. Couldn't get a good pic. I have to drill the holes through the body Turbos. They make a bunch of different sizes Lenco tranny sections Waste gates Webers and stacks This is not from TDR. Enkei 17" wheels It will take some work to get these smoothed out and this stuff doesn't come cheap, but all in all I am pretty happy with that I got. I am definitely looking forward to the future of modelling.

you can definitely attach the front and rear pieces without problems. Just be careful during final assembly and it will be fine.

looks good. test fit the headlight buckets and make sure they sit right before you paint the car. This is where I had most of my issues.

Without it rubbing off yes, but I think the oils in your skin is the biggest issue. I never handle them without latex gloves

I actually used lacquer clear over the black before the Alclad, it did make a difference. I think it turned out better and more durable than just over the black paint.

Google Chrome will take some getting used to, but you can dial in the settings the way you want it. I haven't used IE since version 6. I switch back and forth between Firefox and Chrome, depending on what I am doing. They both have their little quirks. Firefox uses Google search engine, it's just configured a little differently.

E85 as a fuel is a good concept, but the whole package is faulty. The equipment it takes to process pollutes, it costs too much money to grow crops to create enough E85 to become our #1 fuel source, etc. It's burns cleaner and is much more resistant to detonation than gas though.

I know the billet LSX blocks go for around $10k or more. These guys with money to race and build cars, they do it because they can. If they can't, they'll find a way

It's just the lighting. It is the Stainless Steel color instead of chrome. It looks a little darker. Here it is with better lighting.

stop using IE and everything will be fine.

Watch at the end when he picks it up. This thing looks like it only weighs about 60lbs https://youtu.be/8KLNJ8d8Vqc

That's when you calmly place the remaining parts back in the box, close it, then take it outside and drop kick it across the street

Depends on how you do it. I did about 8-10 super thin coats directly across the surface, not at the surface. I had the PSI turned up and the flow turned way down. Now if you do it like you see in the videos on youtube and stuff, they are spraying a lot more at a time and less coats are required. This is just what I found works best for me. There are certainly several ways to do it.