Quick GMC

I love the subject, but I hated the model. Finished 90% of it and threw it in a box. I'm a little snobby I guess when it comes to fitment. I may try this kit again some day, but I was pretty close to just punching it.

How does it not look good for Tony? I know he is known for being a hot head, but I don't see anything in the video that indicates it was intentional, but I wasn't there. It's a terrible tragedy, but the other driver should have never left the car, let alone walk across a track with race cars on it. That's the only known fact at this point. Everyone wants to immediately pin the blame on Tony because of his past temperament, but just because he's a hot head sometimes, doesn't mean he did this on purpose. I think we should wait for the facts to come out and the report to be completed.

This is very tragic. I wasn't there, I don't know exactly what went down, but what the hell was he doing running out on the track during a race?

Model Master has an engine gray. Maybe that mixed with black will give you what you need, if you can't find a color you like.

Can someone explain Round 2 to me? I have been pretty bummed with the AMT kits I have gotten, they seem to have a ton of flash and require an absurd amount of prep, but I like the subjects. Is Round 2 re-tooling everything they release, or only some of them? The 66 Nova PS I had a lot of trouble with.

Great Planes brand pump spray accelerator is what I use. Mild smell

Here is a good build thread. Carbon fiber was used in this one. http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/?showtopic=25777 Here is the real thing.Looks like some of the linkage is carbon, and another is not http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5146/5737895879_9a59ba5fa1_b.jpg

1/16 Fujimi F40 detail set Full detail set with turned wheels and everything else for the Ferrari 250TR It came with a nice plate for display

So far Revell's 57 Ford has been the best domestic kit. It has Tamiya quality fitment. Not all Tamiya's have great fitment, but for the most part, they are very easy to put together. Tamiya's R390 GT1 practically falls together, but can be finicky with all the small parts.

This is Grigio Silverstone, a Ferrari color from Scale Finishes. I was pretty happy with the scale of the flakes. Under direct lighting Direct sun light outside Outside sun light, but under shade direct incoming sunlight, but not direct light on the model In person it is much less dramatic. This is the hardest color that I have ever taken pictures of. To get a nice picture requires a lot of light, and it magnifies the flakes.

I was happy with ferrari grigio Silverstone from jameston. Dark gray metallic. I'll post pics later

The desk I use for the spray booth is an old computer desk i got from Office Depot. I over paid for it, it's just compressed garbage board. I was going to happily destroy it and throw it in the trash when I realized I could still use it. It's very wobbly, so I anchored it to the wall. The office desk is one piece granite with travertine bases. It's pretty nice, but because I'm in the business it was cheaper to make a desk out of stone than it would be to buy a wood one. The drawers in the old desk hold all my spray cans, large and small, and all my solvent cans. The opening that is supposed to hold the computer tower holes my compressor. It works nice right now, but I will run out of space in the future. The nice thing is in a few years when my son is old enough to sleep in a normal bed, I will be getting the bed out of this room, and I can have some more space.

These just snap in place. I bought 2 extra ones. They were filled with expanding spray foam, so I can use them as plugs. When not in use, I put the plugs in and it keeps heat and dirt out. There is enough room on this desk to drop the acrylic box over the top. My corner

Here is the rest of the room Bed, desk, massage chair and Hobby corner paperless office. Other than super important documents, everything is scanned and digitized, then shredded work bench is mounted on the wall with a nailer and steel L brackets. I couldn't stand sitting on a stool any more and the base was too high so I eliminated it. The bench is in the closet to maximize space.

I posted a week or so ago in the questions section and there was some good discussion about how to properly set up a spray booth. After reading what others had to say, I decided to invest some money and build my own, fully enclosed booth. However, my wife and parents bought me the Artograph 1530 spray booth for my birthday and I don't have the heart to return it, so I am going to make it work. I have rearranged the room for the 3rd and hopefully the last time. I have my own business, as well as work full time for my dad's company. I work out of my home in the evenings for now, but will eventually expand into my own building. For the time being I needed a proper office. This room triples as an office, hobby room and guest room for traveling family members. I had 3 major concerns with painting in my house. 1. dust coming through the AC ducts. This was fixed by adding a filter inside the vent to filter incoming air. 2. Opening the window to vent the paint outside. With the wind and dust in my area, I would need a sealed unit to vent outside. Opening the window to insert my board would just allow more sand and dust in. This was fixed by cutting holes in my house and ducting right through the wall. No more opening the window. 3. dust in the air. For those of you that followed the thread saw the conditions I live in. There is dust, always, period. The booth is open in the front. I have not solved this issue yet, but plan on building an acrylic box/cover to go over the booth, with holes in the front to stick my arms through. No messing around. I cut 2 four inch holes through my wall to the outside. This cost me a lot of money because stucco eats hole saw bits. 3 saw bits to make 2 holes, but it was worth it. I used dryer vents on the outside and some type of coupling flange on the inside with a quick release. I bought 2 extra flanges with the quick release. I filled them with expanding spray foam and they act as plugs. When the booth is not in use, I plug the holes to prevent dust and heat coming in If I ever need to eliminate the holes, I can filled them with expanding foam insulation and patch and finish. no harm done. trimmed with flange installed Nice and clean, snug and sealed. this is what it looks like outside.

Like Bill said, do not use the sealer over the buffed metallizer, it will kill the effect. It is good to use over parts that have a metallic finish that are not buffed, or have a reflection. I buff out the metallizers with kleenex. On another forum, a large scale forum, a guy did a tutorial with micromesh and sanding and polishing the metallizers. It was amazing, but I haven't been able to get it to work without rubbing through.

I don't think there is anything wrong with it, as long as the model is not being presented specifically for critique or judging. If you're just posting your work, and touching up a little foil crease or something like harry mentioned, it's nothing to get upset over. But if someone is going around saying "look how great my work is" and PS it, that's not cool. I know when you post, it's open season for comments and critique, but sometimes people finally get that one model almost perfect, only to see the flaws on the computer screen. Touching up here and there isn't a problem to me, but PS a mediocre model to present as something you know it's not, is not okay, especially with how persnickety this community can get. I use PS for a few things, but I haven't on models. Chances are I will someday, but I'll be sure to include the originals if I do.

Yeah its pretty serious. Apparently people have flooded the neighboring town of Oregon because they have their own water supply

That is her decision and everyone should respect it. No need to make a media spectacle about this. It is a shame though, and I wish the best for his recovery. I hope she will update the public about his progress, he has an obscenely large following of fans.

yeah some of the terminology without explanation leaves your imagination open.

I am not certain, but I believe their rubbing compound will be aggressive, for removing slight damage, this will leave swirl scratches. this looks like a good one http://www.autogeek.net/3m-rubbing-compound-16oz.html After that, you can use a glaze or wax. I like the glazes, they bring out the dark, rich color of most paints. Waxes will work. On a model I doubt there is much difference. A wax will protect it a little more I think, if you plan on it being handled a little bit.

Ballistic SRS systems have been out for a while. When I was a Jaguar tech, I had to work on these. It's a very tiny charge that is activated when the computer senses the airbag being deployed. It shoots the seat belt buckle down to cinch it up. So in addition to the mechanical lock that activates when you shoot forward, it adds a little bit more "lock" by ballistically cinching up the belt. There is not enough there to cause any damage to you. They do not activate unless the airbag goes off, unless they changed the way they work.

The irony is strong here

I am not a religious person and I typically don't care for in-your-face religious types, but I haven't experienced that at Hobby Lobby. Nothing is shoved in your face and to complain about the music they play in the background is absurd. If you don't like it, don't shop there. I do find their stance on the issue they were going to court over is extremely hypocritical, but that's another conversation. I find it really hard to believe anyone could be genuinely offended with religious merchandise on a shelf and religious music playing in the background. If you go out of your way to be offended by things like these, you have other problems. I did find many useful things there. A nice extra large hobby mat, pointed sanding sticks and a few other things that have come in very handy that I could not find at Michaels or my LHS.

If it were a full size booth I would consider that, but we're talking about a bench top booth in the bedroom of my house. As of right now, this is the plan I am working on 1. Artograph spray booth 2. 5 sided box made of acrylic to go over the Artograph spray booth and completely seal it up. 3. Cut holes in the acrylic box to stick my arms through, possible add the built in gloves 4. Permanent hard ducting from the booth to the wall, through the wall with a one way flap. This will be about 24" of tubing, very short. 5. Filter incoming air I have successfully painted 1 (ONE) single body in 6 years in this house. I believe it was because I used a very fast drying lacquer. I have completed two other bodies with paint, but literally two days of sanding and polishing each to get them to that point and there was still rub-through. I have laid down one perfect enamel paint job from my airbrush, only to have it ruined with dust and hair. I have spent all the money I am willing to spend. I bought fancy new compressor and airbrush, I buy the best paints, I practice, etc. I have gotten better over the years, I know it, but I am always questioning myself. I have never addressed my work environment properly. Either this works or I'm done. Which would be very devastating to me at this point, but it frustrates me more to put all the detail into these cars that I do and not be able to finish them or put them on a shelf.