gotnitro?

Good job so far, keeping an eye on this one!

Thanks guys for looking in &the feedback. I was gonna mount the hydro tank by the fuel, but adding the lift axle will fill that space. I started scratching a frame mounted cell forward of the body lift cylinder..pics soon

Thanks for the feedback on the lift axle. Better get an order into gwtrucks ! Would I need the high float fronts tires for that combo? question, would a hydraulic tank mounted by the fuel tank be correct? I've seen a few mounted under the dump body, and was considering one mounted in front of the lift cylinder, but what's everyone's thoughts? Thanks Jeff

awesome build!

I'll tip my hand on the paint scheme, I'm planning a faded blue cab and an aluminum dump body. The spoke wheels are staying, but still on the fence about adding a lift axle...

Above you can see the crossmember I added to keep the frame rigid, and made a perfect spot for the carrier bearing I need after the frame mod's. Searching for truck info, I stumbled onto a build where the front wheels were turned. This subtle detail always looks better to me, easily done when building the newer kits from Mobius. This kit had a solid beam, but modifying the axle hubs and tie rods, I had the turned wheels I wanted for the build..hope ya all like it.

I chose to stagger the cuts to make the frame stronger. Then just added .040 strip and re-align the sections! After everything had a fair time to dry, I boxed in the frame rail with more strip . Time for a test fit, everything looked right, frame actually dried straight, off to the evil web for paint ideas!! Jim- I picked it up last weekend in Binghamton during the model swap meet.

I wanted to share a recent project . The project started after a purchase of the Diamond Reo tractor kit, but wanting something different. Wandering thru a recent model show , I found the perfect project! Gary Wallace had the Montone dump box on his table,and after a quick chat, I had my truck . Gary mentioned the frame needed a stretch to fit the box, but sounded like a easy slump buster! This is the project..

Gary at gwtrucks has plastic covered cases suited for big rigs. They come in numerous lengths, and very reasonable.they have a wood base. gwtrucks@yahoo.com for more info

Glad to help, I've learned a small lifetime of info from the builders here Happy modeling!

Awesome job!

Glad to help! I'm inspired by the work here, being new to the trucking builds. Cheap dollar store sponges work awesome for chipping, and keeps the spouse happy! Happy wife , happy life

I had to use a different browser to post these. The first one was done using Testors gunmetal for a base, for the worn aged metal look, a light layer of hairspray, then more enamel for the faded green. About 30 minutes later, some water and brush creates the chipped sides.This took only a few minutes..and was very enjoyable! The distressed/ oxidized look on the tank transport was almost as simple as the hairspray..its called the "dot" technique. seal the base w Future, then apply random dots of oil paints, streak down w a brush damped w mineral sprits and remove the color as desired!! Seal with a dullcoat The last pic was another hairspray job..Testors "leather " for the base, hairspray, then "cat yellow from the rattle can. Warning..this was VERY difficult to remove, I had to paint small areas, and work around the model Happy Modeling ! jeff

the parts look good so far ! Weathering seems to challenge our skills more than any other. I normally build 1/ 35 armor, where several techniques are used for wear. One that I've tried, is the "hairspray" technique. Simply put its a removable layer of clear between layers of paint!! Take the 5th wheel above, apply the red oxide, after it dries, then apply a thin layer of hairspray..cheaper the better..allow to dry then spray the top coat ! Now the fun begins!! Before the top coat fully cures, take a short stiff brush, apply a little tap water, and scuff away the color as desired!! When satisfied, pat the area ;lightly w a tissue and allow to dry overnight! The water will dissolve the hairspray, leaving the under coat intact! Tools like a sharpened t-pick, sanding sticks, give different effects, try em all! Here's a tip, enamel is tougher to remove, but leaves a finer sublte chip effect..acrylic is easier to remove. Id post a couple pics, but photobucket is giving me fits again

The repair looks good! The putty I use for areas like yours is Milli- put. It's a two part putty, spreads smooth, and can be shaped w a dab of water. Most well stocked lhs should carry it

Amazing work! The husky is certainly working !!

My holy grail would be a manufacturer create the front discharge mixer! Several of these pass me everyday, and would make a cool kit

Killer work on your build! Never thought your Tony car could be outdone, boy was I wrong! Gotta check it out in fulton

I'm assuming the thinner wall tubing is prone to kinking? A suggestion to fill the tubing w salt or fine sand , cap the ends it with tape, then bend slowly could help. I used the method on k/s tubing for exhaust and it worked great. Hope it helps Keep up the great work

Now this is how a logging truck should look!! The frame wash and wear looks great, and the dusty dull appearance on the cab and tires..wow!! Did you seal the cat yellow then apply the wash? Thanks