Speedpro

Nice! I like how the revell kits can be mashed together to create build's like this. I think the color combo works well together and makes the car stand out.

Cool wagon! Thats some great weathering. I respect guy's that can pull this off as well as you have. I myself have never tried doing it and probably never will as there are enough guy's doing it that I don't have to. Awsome build!

Thanks Greg, really hope this helps others building this kit.

Beautiful build Bob! Wheels and tires really compliment it. Very nice!

Soon my friend, soon................ Time to work on the chassis some more. My list isn't too long, but the skill level is up there. First on the list is adding another crossmember for the rear suspension to mount to. Found this alittle tricky. After cutting away some of the existing tubing to make way for the new crossmember, the appropriate size round rod was fit and ca glued in place. After it dried, the rod was cut away where I wanted to put the drop for the driveshaft clearence. A piece of rod was shaped and attached between the two rods and welded in place using tamiya extra thin cement. Next was to shorten the shocks as the rear has been lowered a bit. Figured I had to take out about a full coil. One end of the coil was cut off, then cut away one coil and glued it back together using the molding lines to put things back together so the eyes would still line up. Added some needed structure to the frame On the front, the shock mounts were installed to the frame. I cut the shock body off the shock rod. I then drilled the body so the rod slides in and out for adjustment. More on that at another time. I did not care for the hole in the shock mount, so it was drilled out and fit with a piece of rod to fill it in. Here's a mockup of the rear suspension. With the coils cut and the rear end housing at the correct angle for what I'm doing, the ladder bars from the kit are being fitted to their new position. Gotta come up with some mounting points for sure. Ah, fixing one of the biggest flaws of this kit, the upside down wheel cylinder trick! I'm sure everyone knows about this so here's a couple picks of what I did to correct this issue...........put a flat on other side, add material to original flat, sand to shape and you are now 180 degrees in the right direction and the wheel cylinders are doing the same. Thanks for looking and any comments!

I see what you're doing there. Thank's for clarifying that. I'll be watching your updates to see how this works out.

Sorry to hear about the repaint, that bites! Everthing else you've got done look's really nice.

That green color is perfect and look's so good with the black. Beautiful paint work.

Nice work so far Ferby! I like how its coming along. So, the grill in it right now is from a '39, and you're going to put a '41 in it? It looks as though you filled in the '39 to make it smooth, are you doing the same to the '41?

Still been working on this build. As you all know, life just seem's to get in the way this time of year, but I'm still getting alittle done here and there. Got around to fitting the engine. I knew there was trouble going into this. Things are tight. So tight that the trans tunnel required some surgery. Probably could have built a new one, but I just wanted to use the oe one. This area will be covered with carpet that will hide the goofs that may be noticable. I built a hinge for the trunk and mounted it under the deck lid using a couple pieces of round rod drilled to the dia. of the wire and cut in half. Still more work to do there. That's it for now. For the next update, I will be fixing the upside down wheelcylinders!

If I were you, I would leave it as is. Don't look bad from here. Why throw yourself into a total repaint. I'm saying this because a touch up of such a big area almost always turn's into a repaint.

Your build is really coming along nicely. I see nothing but good things here! May i suggest trying a toothpic instead of a brush for touch up of a deep gouge in your paint. Brush holds alot of paint hence bigger chance of failure.

Monogram '32 Ford Roadster with a '34 Ford ZZ Top roof, suicide doors, frame, roll bar, fatties in the rear, and ya, it's got a hemi with a lenco trans.

While going through the interior parts, I noticed the trunk divider and thinking, pretty cool part. Directions show that you can see it behind the aluminum seats and also can see the gas tank and battery through it. But I think I have another way to see this part when using it. And it's from the other side. Opening the trunk is the first. That was easy. Will be using a donor body for the new trunk lid. That will be later. The new trunk divider is next. My idea is to cover the back side of the divider with some sheet styrene and then turn it around so you are looking at the frame work from inside the trunk. Had to trim to fit and add a few scraps of evergreen to complete the now new divider. Finished some small this and that's and think about what i'll do next.....................................

In this update, I did some more chopping on the '30. This time, it is in the suspension that needed to loose a couple inches. I figured that a 4-5 inch drop up front and lets say 3 inch in the rear would get it close to what my eye wants to see. The most important part that I want to keep its factory position is the radiator. There is no reason to mess with the way it mounts. Just need to shorten the grill shell. The rad and the shell were taped together and cut. The hight the radiator needed to be was determined, cut, sanded and everything glued back together. This will mount in the stock location with no other changes made. With the radiator out of the way, I can do the front end drop. Here is how I dropped the front on the '30. In the first pic I wanted to pinpoint the rad mounts with the red arrows. We want to leave those alone. A line was drawn across the cross member. This is the cut line. You can see that the line is right at the radiator mounting notches. Everything behind the line is removed to make room for the new cross member. The new cross member is going to be mounted level with top of the frame. It's location will be determined by the width of the leaf spring. Need a nice snug fit between the rad mount and the new cross member. Made up the cross member with some evergreen sheet and installed it using the front axle as a helper. One leaf was removed from the front axle. To get the leaf spring to touch the new cross member, notches had to be filed into the frame for a relief for the spring. A location pin was added back to the top of the spring. Might have got 5 inch drop out of this mod. The front axle is getting striped of it's chrome as are the rest of the front end parts. Down the road, I get to shorten the shocks also. Happy with how the front came out. Still get to do the rear. Its super simple back there. More to come. Thanks for looking and appreciate your comments.

Thanks Bob! Thank You Craig, Appreciate you checking out the build.

Thanks Brother! Without some of the very in depth conversations we have had, it would have never made it to this point. Thanks for the inspiration.

Bill, you said a word I never thought I would hear in a comment about the mods that I am putting this '30 through. If you look up the word "Radical" one of the definitions say "Very different from the usual". And different is what I'm aiming for. At times I have to let things grow on me also. Thanks for the ideas! You just had to throw in the Suicide door thing didn't ya! It was never in the plans but plans change. I am getting closer to choosing colors though. Thanks for following along

Outstanding Build! I also like that you filled and smooth the front end. Perfect paint and alclad application. That alclad can be tricky. Great pics too!

I like this. Something you don't see everyday! Can't beat 3D printing. I myself have not tried any of this printed parts stuff. If I was younger, I might take some interest in it. For now, there is enough builders using it that I just look at the work they do. Like you!

Alway's fun to see a Monkeemobile! Well done.

Stock is cool. Nice work!

Great weathering. I think its so well done, I would be afraid to ride in it if it was 1:1.

Very nice. Really clean work and I like the color.

The '30 is back with another mod to share. I'v done quit a bit to the body at this point. Things like chopping the top, wedging the body, and filling in the top, you would think would be enough. But there is still one more change or mod I'd like to do. This mod has to do with lengthening the doors a couple inches. And while doing this, the Quarter window will get shorter. I'v always felt the doors on the roadster and coupe kits were too short. I feel that adding 2-3 inches will tend to give the car a longer look....maybe! Started by making the new door line .090 is 2.25 inches in scale. The old lines were filled in will evergreen stripes. the door handle hole was also filled. The added material was sanded down and covered in super glue. It was then sanded smooth. The tops are set side by side so one can see the difference after the chop. A donor top was cut apart. All I needed was the window frames. The top and new window frames were marked. With my exacto knife, the marked area was cut out. Then the new window frame was cut to fit the new opening. The whole time I was worried I would ruin the top and have to start all over. This actually all worked very well. And I would do it again on other builds. I need to start thinking about an engine for this thing. It will take some work to get one in there. That's it for now, I appreciate the comments.