Speedpro

Got more done on the roll cage. Seems every step just wanted to challenge me as you can see by the pile of rod so far. As I had said, this will be done in sections. The front, middle and maybe the rear. It will only be glued at the bottom where the rod goes through the floor. The slots in the door panels are what is holding eveything in position with no chance of moving. This is how it will go together. First, the front part of the cage goes in first. It is the biggest part as it is the front hoop, dash and the top bars. It is put in at the rear of the body and brought forward to the cowl. It was made so the top bars connecting to the main hoop will not be glued. They are just a nice tight fit. To get the interior bucket inside the body, the main hoop must be pulled down being almost even with the top of the door panel. Once the interior bucket is inside the body, the main hoop can be pushed up inside the body against the roof. At this point the interior bucket can be lowered in place, feeding the rod through the holes in the floor. Going together........... Now, If only I can figure out the rear of the cage. In the mean time, I'm trying to pick a color so I can start painting. Thank's for looking..................

Thanks for the comments and checking out the build. Really appreciate it. With all the things that have been done on this '32, I just had to throw in one more addition to the interior. Safety is always a concern and with that in mind, I decided to add a roll cage. I think I have figured out a way to build it in sections for ease of installation. I will be using .080 rod to build it with as It looks to be the right scale. Started off by bending up a main hoop that will be centered on the B pillars. The hoop was left long on the ends as it will pass through the floor. This allows it to be adjusted easly when installing. Holes were drilled in the floor and the hoop was put in place. With the angles that the main hoop has, It will be necessary to file a slot int the door panel to get it to fit tight to the B pillar. This also proved to be a perfect way to keep the hoop centered while building other parts of the cage to it. Next up is the front hoop. It was bent to fit tightly around the windshield and the dash. I found that incorporating the dash to the front hoop was the best way to keep everything tight to the cowl. Once I was happy the fit of the hoop and dash, they were glued together. At this time the door panels were filed so the front hoop fits nice and snug. Holes were drilled in the floor for the hoop ends to pass through. I will be leaving the hoops long till final assembly. At that time they will be glued and cut flush. And everything should fit nicely. So far so good. Have a little more to do yet. Till next time............................

Nice! That will keep things going in the right direction.

Close to being done with any more mods. If there is any, they will be small. But, this is model building so anything can happen, Brother!

This build was originally started on The Official '32 Tudor Sedan Build-Off! thread. If you would like to see the work in progress you can see it here THE OFFICIAL '32 TUDOR SEDAN BUILD-OFF! - WIP: Model Cars - Model Cars Magazine Forum Its been a while since anything has been done to my '32 that I have been building on the build-off thread. I'v got 2 early iron's in the fire right now, the other being a '30 model A coupe. Have been bouncing between this 32 and the 30. I've decided to start a thread on the '32 instead of on the build-off thread as that one has been over for a while and would rather finish it here. The last time I did any work on this build was back in feb this year, and it was put back into the box for another day. On to the '30 coupe and a couple other things I went. Took the summer off and have decided to get this '32 out of the box and back on track. Long story short, I try'd a couple things out at the rear of the car. Had a crazy idea for tail lights and license plate placement. I did the tail lights.........It was a bit of work................in the box it went. Out of the box and on the bench, first thing to do was cut those tail lights out and fill the holes to get ready for the next attemp on lighting. The next plan is just going to be something simple. I keep doing things in this area and end up filling big holes I've created. For instance, the first license plate location, didn't look good. Gotta at least try or you'll never know. The second location is much better for the license plate, unfortunately didn't take any pics during it's construction. For the tail lights, I'm using some round tubing and some lights out of I don't know what kit(can't remember at the moment). I figured out where I wanted the lights to go and started drilling holes for the tubing to go in. Glued the tubiing in place, sanded it down flush and checked the fit of the lense, Perfect. This is what I'm sticking with, no more changes back here. Or I thought, ended up adding a 3rd brake light to finish things off. Ok,now it's done Well, with this area out of the way, some primer needs to go on and get it ready for paint. As far as color choice? I keep changing my mind everytime i thought a color has been picked. Till next time..............................

Very nice. You did a great job melding the 2 kits together. Vinyl top with the red always works well together.

Thats some great work Tim. I'm a big fan of the street freak era. As a matter a fact, my first car was a '66 nova gasser. Kinda in my blood. Really enjoyed looking at your GTO.

Nice custom touch's and along with the frame, certainly makes a cool ride. I like your style of building. Very nice.

Glad to see you got something done on this Kit! The linkage and fuel lines turned out awsome.

Looking good Bob!

I feel pretty dumb right now as i did not know this. Not a mopar guy so i don't follow much.

Very nice! Love them monogram kits!

Thats a beautiful road runner! Great job on the photo's too!

Good looking cuda!

Very nice!

Have a small update on the seat. Decided to add headrests. The idea is to cut up another back seat (the seat was supplied by my good friend @Kit Karson) using just the top pleat of the seat back. It was shaped to what looked right and added some material to the back side to add some thickness. I used my calipers to make sure they are Identical. The plan is to mount the headrests on pins above the seat top. But plans change. I came up with a idea that will work with the seat better and not be so intrusive. And I didn't for how tall they looked. I took a measurement of the pleats, then applied that to the headrests. Now the headrests are the size of the pleats and the seat was cut to accept them. The end result is they don't sit so high and they blend right into the seat. Much happier with the way they look. Still needs a little fine tuning. I think the seat is done getting any more mods. When the top is put on, it look's perfect. I also cut up the rear package tray of the donor seat, and the speakers will be mounted in the kick panel below the dash. That's it for now...........................

Thanks greg, My approach to building is more of "there is no plan, figure it out when ya get there". I just do one thing at a time and do it the best I can when I'm there. Thank's DJ, It's interesting to see what builders do with things like this. I've done it a couple times and this is the easiest way to deal with it. I removed all the floor framing as I wanted it to be smooth. Made it alot easier. You did it the way I ended up doing it the first time I built this car. Came out as expected, but is was too much work. Thanks for checking out my '30.

Topher, That's a pretty cool idea to use that hurst shifter as part of the steering linkage, but 1.1, I would be thinking it wouldn't be a good thing. If ya can't steer it and stop it, It ain't worth building as they say. Thats alot of engine you're putting in there. It's going to look really cool when it's finished! Nice work so far!

Some things are meant to be, and this just has to be done. I'v been working on the interior on the '30 and for a noticable change, the rear seat from the amt '33 ford street rod as been incorperated into the build. The door panels were smoothed out using evergreen sheet. But the stock dash sitting in the interior just wasn't looking so good anymore. Looking for options, a few different dashes were looked at to replace the kit dash board. One of those dashes was from the '33 kit. It was test fit into the interior bucket and to say it fit perfect was almost an understatement. Right off the parts tree, it needed no modifications to fit. Amazing, What are the chances! So the dash from the '33 is now being used. The theme for this build is to moreless modify all the parts in some way. The plan is to remove the stereo/glove box door, speedo and tach and the two gauges in the middle. The toggle switches are staying. They will be marked as window switches because the window cranks have been removed. They were alittle close to the dash. As far as the vents go, both will be filled. I want the dash to have a smooth appearance. This dash has alot a character and I think it adds just the right touch for the interior. Got he dash cut out and vents filled. During the final fitting, I found that the dash has a arch to it. To the point that a piece of material was added where the top of the dash and the cowl meet. That was sanded down to fill the slight void it had. Now that the dash fit the top, I found that it needed alittle support to make it stay in the position it needed to be when installed. A piece of round solid rod fixed that. The seat needs some adjustment at this point. This part mounts alot more forward. The old one mounts under the cowl. I'm also curious about the angle of the steering column. Thought I was past all that. I was, but this is way worth it. Thinking a section may be in the future................... Thats it for now.................

The interior is looking awsome. On the windshield, I see you have sanded to 6000. Thats a start, but it really needs to go to 12.000. then polish out from there. The results will be very noticable.

The paint idea should look pretty good!

Worked on the door panels. Just had to get rid of the rolled pleat look. Made a couple templets out of tape. Transfered to .015 evergreen sheet. Eazy pezy. Not sure where it's going from here. It'll work its self out.

Lookin great Bob! I'm enjoying the paint. Looks like everythings really coming together well. Did that steering wheel from this kit? Or maybe the '66 nova kit?

The time has come to start working with the interior. I have a seat from a '33 ford that I was working on awhile back. I'm going to bite the bullet and go the distance and make that seat fit the car. But before the seat, I wanted to take care of the slots that can be seen on the bottom side of the floor boards outer edge. This was a easy task. A couple strips made from 0.20 evergreen sheet were glued to the bottom of the floor board. I probably could have made them to be not so noticable, but chose to make them be seen. Adds a liitle character to a other wise flat surface. All that was done to the door cards was to sand a little off the 6 tabs that sit in the slots. I think I have a fair plan for the rear deck of the seat as it needs to be lengthened. A piece of 0.60 evergreen was shaped to fit the opening for the rear deck. The rear deck was cut off the seat. It was done this way for adjustment reasons. It will be grafted into the piece that was made to be the new rear deck. After the two parts were joined, the seat and the new rear deck were glued back together. Some finish work still needs to be done. When fitting the two parts back together, it was obviuos that the fit of the overall seat was going to be right on the money. One thing that was noted was the steering column was not lined up center with the driver's seat. That will be adjusted. And what to do with those pesky door cards! Till next time.............................

Below is part of a post I made on the previous page about Fixing the upside down wheel clyinders. It has been brought to my attention by @NOBLNG that there is actually nothing wrong with the parts in the kit. I thought it was just a mistake when the kit was made and thought I was doing good by showing how to fix it. I apologize to any builders that used this on their build. I'll try to do better in the future. Speedpro Ah, fixing one of the biggest flaws of this kit, the upside down wheel cylinder trick! I'm sure everyone knows about this so here's a couple picks of what I did to correct this issue...........put a flat on other side, add material to original flat, sand to shape and you are now 180 degrees in the right direction and the wheel cylinders are doing the same. IF you are building a factory stock '30 Ford Model A, you really don't want to do this modification!