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thank you. i am not sure my using bleeding in this case is technically the correct wording for what i was experiencing. the red was showing up through the white, even with multiple coats of primer. I dont think the red was dying or changing the color of the white, which is what i would consider "bleeding". I think the white just wasnt strong enough to fully block the red. i was definitely getting poor coverage over the red, that i hadnt experienced before. maybe because i dont typically have red molded models. anyway thank you so much to everyone that helped me on this. this was one that i thought was doomed to be put back in the model closet to never be touched again. however, with the help from everyone here, i was able to get it right the first time and was able to lay down my best paint job to date. i cant wait to start detailing it i typically wait 2 days after paint before really trying to handle it. also, can i compound the clear coat to try to make it even more shiny or do i risk messing it up since the blue is metallic

Here are a couple of pictures. I think this might actually be the best paint job i have ever done. I did 1 coat of silver, 1 thin coat of the blue, then one gloss coat of the blue, then a clear coat. I did not polish or compound the paint at this point and i can see reflections in it. Its hard for me to show in pictures but here is what i took. The blue is tamiya ts54, light metallic blue and tamiya ts13 for the clear. The silver is tamiya ts76 mica silver. there is nothing else done to it at this point, just let the paint dry. i need to do the door lines and such in a dark color, but otherwise i am really happy with this paint job. i dont say that very often. in fact, i dont think i have ever said it

its funny you mentioned that because i was researching it just today. previously i would paint in the hallway to the outside door, basically holding the model on the tamiya stand, with the door open so the paint would go directly outside. however, i always had some kind of dust, cat hair or whatever in the paint when i did it that way. i bought this box and found that the whole house smelled after, where i had to open the doors and windows for about 1 hour to get the smell out. i have a 3m painting mask, but until i got this box, i never really had an issue with the paint smell. anyway, i primarily use spray paints, and rarely use my airbrush and a lot of the commercial paint booths say not to use flammable paints with them because of the type of motor. i live in an apartment, so i dont really have enough room for a permanent work spot. i found in the pinned link above someone that built their own using a motor from granger. i will probably pick that one up and build a paint booth out of the box i got.

Im actually really happy with the color that it turned out to be. I looks a lot like the ford blue at least as i remember it. Once im done with the paint, i will post a picture. Im far away frim being done building, but i can post to show the color.

i sprayed the blue over the silver, and it came out nice. no sign of the red anywhere. i just did a second gloss coat and then i will clear coat it today. i bought this box that i am painting in, and it is the first time i am not painting in a room, and so far so good, no dust or anything in the paint. it has a lid that i close after i am done, which keeps the dusties out. two models recently have needed work because of dust or cat hair, and im tired of it. i have this obsession with paint jobs needing to be perfect. even a single spot annoys me

Ok ty. I will do the silver as recommended EDIT I just sprayed the silver and it looks like its fully covered. Hopefully it dries smoothly and evenly. I have never been able to get a silver paint job without there being sections darker than others where i either went a bit heavy or an extra pass. The blue i plan to use is metallic so i need that base perfect since i cant sand it. Its why i typically avoid metalic paint

I will try a coat of the silver since i have that here. I spent too much money on kits recently and need a break from spending. worst case i put it back in the box until then. Alternatively, i could spray it black first, and the blue over the black. It will just be a darker blue right?

I have an old ford f150 ranger kit that is molded in red. I am finding that i can still see the red color bleeding through after the primer. I tried 2 coats of primer and i still see it. I am using tamiya white primer because it is all i have. How many coats will i need to do. The model is already thin on details so i dont want to do so much primer that it loses all I plan on painting it blue so i think it should cover it. Do you think it will? I dont want to paint it red, i dont like red cars/trucks

i like molotow pens for that. its water based so if you mess it up a wet rag will clear it right up. just cant stop on painting it on, or you will see it. basically need to start at the bottom and 1 pass only. if it doesnt fully cover, you need to wait for it to dry and do it again

i started using tamiya course compound with the 3m ultra fine hand pad and it is making the surface exactly like the key and clean. Roughed up for primer, but does not appear scratched. im going to try to find a car compound so i can get a better deal vs the price of tamiya compound https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HSCNVM2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

So since pearl white is almost silver. Would clear pearl over tamiya pure white give me a white car with pearl

I sand the tread with 400 grit sand paper to make it dull. Ibsand the sidewall with an 800 or 1000. Depending on how deep the tread is i typically fold the sandpaper in half and give a quick run through

that looks great

I have been looking for the blue and white belkits vw polo in the usa, but i haven't had any luck. I find them on ebay international but with shipping its like 100 dollars. Does anyone know a reputable seller in the usa i can find it? I have Google but no luck. Thank you in advanced

Its amazingly lucky the guy hadnt moved in the 20 years. I have moved 4 times in the past 20 years

A hobby store once told me that the ps paint can be used on models just it will be matte instead of shiny. They said since it goes on the inside of an rc body the plastic makes it look shiny. I haven't tried it myself, but i wouldn't bother if there is a ts version. Its not worth the risk, to me at least

Mine used to be almost the same. I didnt do the initial dip. I would sand the lines and then use the key and clean, which looks like just the scotch brite pad and compound and then i would wash with dish soap and let it dry overnight. I Ordered a scotch brite pad in ultra fine and it should arrive today. i will use that going forward. i had tried using a fine grit sand paper but that fidnt always go well. I needed to be extra careful.

i had the an issue on the kit i am finishing now with the pure white. i could see differences in the paint that took me a lot of work to fix, but i finally got it. i thought i was going to need to strip it and go again, but thankfully just using course tamiya compound was able to get things squared away. basically i sanded and sprayed and sanded and sprayed, and finally just used compound and sprayed and that seemed to help. there is a tiny swirl mark in the paint, that i should be able to fix after the clear coat. i had messed it up by buying the tamiya foam sandpaper from amazon. i am pretty sure it was imitation or something because the 1500 grit basically put scrapes in the paint really badly. i thought i had gotten it all squared away, but there was one mark that was just dull on the white. i think most other colors wouldnt have been an issue with it. teaches me to buy from 3rd party people on amazon. tonight i will do the decals on the body and clear it. unfortunately it was a very expensive kit, so i was determined to get it right because i wasnt buying another. although most kits are at the point.

thankfully the body is all one piece. i am going to have to spray it on a test piece. the color of the real car looks like plain white. if the pearl is not perfectly white, i will just use the tamiya pure white. i think i have one of those still thanks guys

i have on order the tamiya pearl white paint (ts-45). do i have to spray that any differently vs any other tamiya ts paint? basically, i just do a primer coat, and 1 or 2 light coats, and then one gloss coat. is the pearl paint the same steps? Do i need to put a bottom color below it, like silver or anything first? or just the primer

does anyone here compound the bare plastic before primer? i used to own this stuff called key and clean, which looks like it is just compound and a cloth scrub cloth to get the plastic perfect. i can't find key and clean in the USA, so i was thinking of just using the tamiya course polish. has anyone else tried using compound on the bare plastic?

one thing to mention, if you mask off an area to paint, if you clear coat the the tape area before painting, any accidental bleed will be clearcoat and not a color coat. after the thin clear dries, then color coat over the clear.

i get these calls about 4 times per day on my cell

https://www.consumerreports.org/car-recalls-defects/jeep-gladiator-wrangler-with-manual-transmission-recalled-clutch-overheating/ notice the fix, they are doing a software update to reduce the truck's power when it gets too hot, instead of replacing the part. seems like a bs fix

many years ago i bought a bunch of different model master metallizer colors. They brush on so well and is great for rotors, exhaust, etc. However, after all these years later i finally used up all of my aluminum plate color, but i cant seem to find it anywhere. is this stuff discontinued? or is it renamed/rebranded? its a really thinned version, that could be airbrushed right out of the bottle if you wanted https://store.spruebrothers.com/product_p/tes1420xxx.htm