Pete J.

Ok, I must have fallen of the list cause I didn't see this one at all. Ok, I'm back in! Bring on the next one!

Bruce, there were 3 models that stopped me in my tracks. Yours was one of them. Well deserved win! Keep it up. You do great work.

Jessie, next time you see Darryl, ask him about painting the laundry room Tamiya green. He decanted the paint into a regular paint jar and capped it and set it aside. Next morning he gave it a good shake to mix it up well, opened the lid and instantly painted himself and the laundry green!

The main advantage I see is control over the paint and where it goes. If you need to get into tight spaces using a rattle can is about like using a fire hose to water your house plants. You can dilute the paint to use less pressure to get into the nooks and crannies. It also works well for fade paint jobs(e.g. Gene Winfield and Chip Foose). Some can pull that off with a rattle can but it is never something I could make work. Don't get me wrong, I like rattle cans, especially Tamiya rattle cans. Quick and easy. However my airbrushes serve a purpose and I would never quit using them. Oh and by the way, now that Tamiya has released their LP paint series in the US, I am even less likely to give them up.

Looks like my comments were not very clear. Dew point is not a static number when it comes to humidity. Saying you won't paint when the dew point is above 60 makes no sense. That is like saying I have 6 oz of water, ask " How full is the glass?". You don't know unless you know the size of the glass, the temperature where your are painting is the size of the glass. The dew point is the amount of water you have. What matters is the spread between the dew point and the temperature. A 15 degree spread will give you about 60% relative humidity and that would give you a good number. However, consider this. When the weather service gives you a dew point, it is for the conditions at the weather reporting station. If it is hot outside and you are in cool basement or an airconditioned room the humidity will much higher and your paint is more likely to blush. You are dealing with to many variables to refer to dew point as an absolute. I have always had a hygrometer where I paint and I get a humidity reading that is reflective of my location. I don't paint when the humidity gets about 70% or higher. Hygrometers are cheap($10 to $20) and generally accurate enough for painting, but most important, they reflect the humidity in the room you are painting in and not the weather at the airport.

Interesting view on the subject of humidity. As a ground instructor for pilots, it is my job to explain this to aviators of all ilks. Dew point is the point at which the air is at 100% humidity or the maximum water vapor content of the air. The difference between the current temperature and the dew point is relative humidity. At any given point the relative humidity and the difference between the current temperature and the dew point represent the same amount of moisture in the air. Pilots need this information to gauge cloud ceilings and potential for fog. A difference between current temperature and dew point of 0, with calm winds will guarantee fog. Having said that a 10 degree spread in dew point and current temperature is equal to about 70% relative humidity. Two different ways to measure the same thing.

The way I see it, are you a builder or collector. If you are a collector, put it back on the shelf. If you are a builder and want to chop a model, sell it to a collector so they can preserve it and love it. Then use the money to buy yourself something else to chop up. Collectors love this sort of thing. Or you can just do whatever you what. You own it, you decide. Just thought I would add this from my personal experience. I built this many years ago from a couple of what were cheap kits(Tamiya Volvo & Alfa). This was given as a thank you to Mr. Tamiya. Always thought I would like to build it again, so I bought the kits back when they were still cheap. Now the kits are both going for over $100 each. I do occasionally think of selling them, but I also still want to recreate this. I suppose if someone really, really wanted them, I might be inclined to sell them but for now it is just one of those back burner projects. Regardless it is my decision to make. Either way, I won't just keep them for posterity.

Been using both for as long as I can remember and at my age that is over 30 years or just since my morning cup of coffee. Nothing in between ?. The fact is that each tool has something that it is best at. It is a little like using a screwdriver for a chisel. It will work, just not as well. Tamiya cans, for me, work best for a lot of small parts still on the sprue and large flat areas. They don't work particularly well in areas with a lot of nooks and crannies. Also they don't work well on sharp angles. If not done very carefully, you get bubbles of propellent in the thick areas. Airbrush works much better on these. I like to decant the can and get the tight spaces with my airbrush and follow that up with a blast from the rattle can. Don't limit yourself to a single tool. Use what is best for what you are doing. Much better results that way.

Absolutely stopped me in my tracks when I passed the table! Great build. There were some really outstanding large scale builds this year. This was one of them.

Thanks for the hint, but this one seems a bit more obscure than usual.

I had thought about doing this, but the last one always seems to the the one I just used and not the one I need? This way a small sheet is just a pull away. ?

I know this is a weird subject for a modeling website, but I am really happy about this. I use a lot of paper towels with cleaning up airbrushes, paint brushes and a lot of other things at the modeling workbench. I was going through a lot of paper towels. Most of my trash in the shop was paper towels. I was very happy when bounty came out with select-a-size. I reduced my waste by at least 1/3 but I was still using a lot of towels. Then Brawny comes out with tear-a-square. These are just the right size for little jobs like cleaning my airbrush, cleaning up the tops of paint bottles and just about every other job I was using paper towels for at my modeling bench. I have cut my waste in half at least. Maybe more. This is a great addition to my bench!

Holy shinola Randy, that is stunning! How the heck did you do the lettering on the valve covers????

Just saw this "factory sealed" Gunzie kit on eBay! Are you kidding me? $75? Slight damage to the box? Unopened? Yeah, it is the only way to keep all the smashed up pieces together. Frankly, I wouldn't buy it at any price! Looks like a scam to me! Oh and it is listed as a motorcycle. Clearly this person is off their meds! https://www.ebay.com/itm/114911865111?mkevt=1&mkpid=0&emsid=e11021.m43.l1120&mkcid=7&ch=osgood&euid=57ba07453ed94a009ef08a28cc6d863a&bu=43201055203&ut=RU&osub=-1~1&crd=20210730072244&segname=11021&sojTags=ch%3Dch%2Cbu%3Dbu%2Cut%3Dut%2Cosub%3Dosub%2Ccrd%3Dcrd%2Csegname%3Dsegname%2Cchnl%3Dmkcid

New Years 1966. My first trip to Disneyland. Our high school marching band marched in the Rose parade in Pasadena, and as part of the trip, we marched down Mainstreet Disneyland. They gave us entry and a book of tickets(back when each ride required a ticket) for entertaining the crowd. The Haunted Mansion was all most complete but not open. All the other rides mentioned before were going strong and I remember them. I bought a souvenir I really, really wish I still had. Sword in the Stone had just been released and back then Disney threw the production cells for the movie on the table and charged $5 a piece for them. I could have retired on $100 bucks worth. Fast forward 1988, I move to SoCal with the family. We bought annual passports and would go 5 or 6 times a year with the kids. Great times! Sorry to see the annual passport go away last year. It was an economical way to take a family for a day or two of fun. We use to be able to go and spend a night in the Disney hotel for a couple of hundred dollars all in(food, souvenirs lodging and parking). My son had his annual passport until he graduated from college. He went to UC Irvine and would go when he was feeling stressed. He could do it for less than $10. He would go to the Mission Tortilla display(California adventure) and get a free bag of tortillas, spend $10 on a smoked turkey leg and a drink and he was good for the evening.

Had that happen all to often with Tamiya rattle cans. The problem is the propellent dissolved in the paint. If you hold the can it too close and the spray it on too thick, the top layer flashes off(forms a skin) before the propellent can off gas completely. This happens most often in corners. You can do several things to mitigate this. First is to spray several thin layers. That way the dissolved propellent doesn't have to off gas through a thick layer of paint. The second is to heat the paint. This makes the propellent much more active and it will off gas much more quickly. My prefered solution is to decant the paint and spray it through an airbrush. When you decant the paint, you can see the issue you mentioned quite clearly. When you put it in a jar, it will continue to bubble for several hours. Never ever seal a jar of freshly decanted paint. A friend of mine did that and then shook the jar the next day to mix the paint. When he opened the jar, he instantly painted the entire room(and himself) with little green polka dots. ?

Yea, me too! I am so sick of hearing the voice over "Could it be ........." I have take to recording it. I can generally watch a full show in about 10 minutes when I get rid of the speculations and garbage. I do like the archeologists and seeing some of the stuff they dig up. ?

Never heard of SC. My large can is empty so I will seek it out.

If cost is your primary objective then you can't beat Weldon 3 or 4. It is about $25 a quart. You can get it on line or at your local plexiglass fabricator's. Every model I have built in the last 20 years was assembled with that stuff. I have a small 1/4 pint can that was my original purchase and just refill it from the quart bottle. A quart lasts me for years. Just never ever leave the top off overnight. The 1/4 pint will be gone in the morning. I also prefer the Touch n Flow applicator I got from Micro Mark for application. Very precise and easy to control.

Was the last time I checked. http://rbmotion.com/rbmshop_3.0/index.php?route=information/contact I thought he had a facebook page to but I couldn't seem to find it.

Unfortunately this is as much a problem of estate planning as it is banking. Banks are by design, intended from keeping others from gaining access to your money. When you are no longer with us then the red tape starts. This can be solved with a basic estate planning tool known as a trust. That means that the successor trustee has access to all your affairs if they are owned by the trust. The trust documents have a succession of trustee statement that precludes and the bank scuffle. By the way, this is very important to married couples to have so if one partner dies or is mentally incompetent the other continues as the trustee. Otherwise you have to go through the courts to claim property that is jointly owned and if you think the banks are sticklers for forms, try the court system out!

I drove the same streach of road much later in the day an can attest to everything you said. Gorgeous Red C8 stuck out, but there were two that really caught my attention. I saw two different BMW M3CS's. Only 500 sold in the US.

Too late now, but I ditched the exacto blade years ago. I much prefer the quality of Tamiya's saw. Slightly larger blade and handle, blade is stiffer with much finer and sharper(mind your fingers) teeth and it cuts on the pull stroke. The last bit seems to give me much better control. I love it for chopping tops. You can easily cut a roof lengthwise with a straight smooth cut. It also slices through delicate parts like roof pillars easily without breaking them. It is available on amazon for $21. Yes it is about $5 more than the exacto blade, but IMHO well worth the extra. Although top quality tools will not make your models better, they definitely improve the experience.

I understand, but I would rather spend $36 for a can than the same price of 6 tubes of hobby putty. The tubes of hobby putty seem to be far worse at dry out long before they are empty. When I was working on customs, I use to go through a lot of tubes of Tamyia or Squadron putty. It seemed like when ever I would grab a tube I had opened for prior project, it was dry and that always seemed to happen at the worst point in the build. My experience with eurosoft is that it lasts for 8 or 9 years and never had the resin go bad. I always get a crack in the plastic container long before that. I seem to have more of an issue with the catalyst tube cracking long before the resin does, but my local supplier will give you another tube of that anytime you ask. The other huge advantage to eurosoft is that you can sand within 30 minutes and paint within a couple of hours. No waiting overnight for the stuff to harden. Just a better product all around. Cheapest way to do it is for one person to buy a can, divide it up into smaller containers like large Tamiya mixing bottles and split the cost with a lot of your fellow modelers.

Been using this for years and expensive? No, not really. Not cheap to buy, but per ounce, it is far cheaper than any modeling putty on the market. Just bought a can yesturday and it was $41 but that was less than $1 an ounce. Tamiya putty is about $6 an ounce. I have had one issue with it though. If you buy the plastic bottle or pouch, the container cracks or leaks after a while. If I don't buy the can, I transfer it to a glass jar. Also, you need to replace the hardener from time to time. Same issue.