Pete J.

Where do you go Dave? I was in the chair for a cleaning yesterday as well. I have been going to the same dental "organization" for over thirty years and am on the third dentist that has owned the practice. I did realize that some people couldn't here the ultrasonic tool. I have had issues with a tooth that was super sensitive to that piece of equipment. I think the main issue with dentistry is the anticipation on the part of the patient. I have never felt as much inflicted pain anywhere as I have in the dentist chair. Although it is infrequent I am still tense in anticipation of them hitting that one spot that brings me out of the chair. That is why I am no fan of dentistry.

As to the Trophy hound comments I will add this. Frankly, I think it is the most difficult class to do well in. All the detail and modification can disguise basic building flaws with the Wow factor. I think I can say that because I have never placed first in an OOB category. For those who know me, they know I have won my share of accolades at the national level but I just can't seem to put the best model on the table in OOB. I think it is fair to say that of all the categories in modeling, OOB has the most level playing field. As Snake said, being judged strictly on assembly and finish is a different kettle of fish from creating an accurate, highly detailed model. Yes, some of the newer kits have more detail and in many cases photoetched and other "improvements" but the more complex the model the more likely to make a mistake in the basics.

Ah yes, Box stock! The simplest rules but subject to more attempts to stretch the rules than any other category. In point of fact, IPMS had to dedicate a page and a half to the actual rules this year for nationals. Granted, there are a lot of potential exceptions when you have a hundred or so categories so it is unlikely that your local car club contest would go that far. Having said that, I believe most of the contests I have attended define OOB in a simple manner. The model must be built with what came in the box as specified in the instructions. Finish materials are generally not provided in the box any more so the model builder can choose their own. Finish materials generally include glue, fillers, paints, decals and other decal like materials i.e. adhesive foils and stickers. That is pretty much it. As to sprue and other non-parts bits(such as sprue, paper from the instructions or packaging materials) must comply with the "built as specified in the instruction". If there are instruction on building a roll cage from the sprue in the instructions, then yes, have at it. If not, then no. The most common "make your own" parts specified in the instructions include using a portion of the instructions to make paper seat belts and stretched sprue for antennas but that is about it. Remember, the basic intent of OOB is to test the builders basic skills. How well can you glue, paint and decal. The advent of super high part count kits creates a disparity between the $15 Revell Chevy and the $100 Tamiya Redbull but selecting the best kit to compete is at the discretion of the builder.

Beautiful job! A small back story. The reason they made a convertible for the movie is that Sean Connery was too tall to fit in the coupe.?

This one is also quite interesting!

Beutler actually did several versions. Personally I like the 2+2 coupe as much as the drop top.

Very nice finished kit. 1:48th scale???? That is tiny! I don't think most people will get that. It finally dawned on me when I saw the end of the sanding stick. You should shoot a photo with a ruler so people will understand what a find build this is. My 1:24 scale one is about the size of a regular 1: 48 scale airplane.

Tim- love the Wheels. I've been messing with some kidney bean slots and know how are they are. Any chance on you showing your drawings for these?

Ok, I signed up. What has your experience been like? Any high end kits?

This was never intended to be a fighter. It was strictly an air speed record aircraft but I have seen people paint it like a fighter. It actually is a very very small aircraft, with very little fuel for endurance, an no strength to stand the g forces of aerial combat. This was the "muscle car" of the era. All designed for straight line speed. By the way, the red interior, is not period correct according to the restoration material I found somewhere. The seat is correct but the rest including the wheel wells should be natural wood. The red is a wood preservative used to prevent any further deterioration of the original aircraft. I think most people look at this and expect that it is riveted aluminum on a monocoque frame. The only exterior metal is the fairings around the wings, the air inlet on the top of the fuselage and the prop spinner. Well, the gear doors are aluminum also. ? P.S. Perhaps you may have noticed I am a bit of a nut case when it comes to this aircraft!

Yes, correct. Scotty Wilson created a replica to see if it would fly. You can google his name and Bugatti for more details. Because of the fact that bugatti engines are rare, cost in excess of $1,000,000 each if you can find them and the original magnesium ones are long lost, he powered it with a pair of Kawasaki motorcycle engines. That was the fatal flaw. The aircraft crashed, killing Scotty, when the clutch failed on one of the engines. The loss of half of the power and inadequate rudder authority made the aircraft unflyable. I had several e-mail discussions with Scotty when he was building the aircraft. He had original blueprints and was kind enough to send me a copy of one of them to me showing the detail of the tail skid. Very nice gentleman. He and I both joined the Air Force at about the same time, but never met in person.

On the real aircraft the blades would be the same length because they are the same propeller attached to a central hub. Having said that on the model they may be shorter because the blades are attached to the faring but the diameter across the blades should be the same. It is a bit of a conundrum because of model attachment vs. real attachments. You should make them look corrects. Here is a web site that should give you a better view of the components you asked about. https://www.eaa.org/eaa-museum/museum-collection/aircraft-collection-folder/1938-bugatti-model-100-racer This is the one and only original. The instrument panel is actually engine turned aluminum. The airframe is all an exotic balsa plywood. Most of the farings are aluminum. Interestingly the Bugatti 50A engines differed from their regular race car engines in that the block was magnizium. The engines were "mirror" images. I use the term mirror because Bugatti reversed the flow across the heads and the engines ran in opposite directions. There was a drive shaft for each that ran on either side of the pilot to the gear box in front. For 1938 this was a crazy advanced aircraft!

All the research I have says they are the same variable pitch prop that the pitch is adjustable on the ground only, so they would have set them in opposite directions. By the way, you know that it never flew right?

Absolutely astonishing air speed record pre WWII aircraft. Looks like it would be at home in a F1 air race today! I was not surprised by the post at all. I have been working on a 1/24 scale Fisher models version for many years. Kind of one of those really long term projects that gets interrupted by life. I have a ton of research on this. You showed the prop blades. One little bit of information. Besure when you mount them that the inner and outer are in opposite pitch. The propellers are counter rotating. Good luck and it is great to see one getting built!

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I just had to do some very precise cutting on a clear aircraft model canopy and it needed to be spot on. I bought Hasegawa'a Trytool photoetched saws many years ago and they are so thin and have almost microscopic teeth that are very sharp. This is my tool of choice. You need to be patient and use something to guide the blade. I often use DYMO label tape because it stikes well and it think enough to guide the blade easily. It is good on single curved pieces such as yours, but no so much on compound curves as it is not very flexible. For compound curves I use blue Fine line tape.

I've going to contests for about 30 years now and I would like to start with this. Although I enjoy the competition end of it, I would go if I had nothing to enter(and have) just because my biggest pleasure is spending time with other like minded people and getting inspiration for my next build. I don't recall ever attending a contest that didn't have a no sweeps rule and I understand and agree with the idea. I view it this way. We are not rewarding the model, but picking the best three modeler builders in each category. In some respects it may limit the number of entries because people don't want to compete with themselves but not that I have ever noticed. If I enter multiple models in a category, then I am looking for the judges to tell me which one is the best of what I built, not that I out built the other builders. Frankly, I am good with that because I have discovered that trophies don't mean much after a few years. I actually just threw out a few boxes of old trophies because I couldn't remember which model they belonged to. I only kept a few first place trophies that meant something special eg: Tamiya Con, GSL, IPMS Nats, Eagle Quest and a few others. After 30 years I just don't need boxes of trophies. What I want is to keep the memories of all the great times I had with other modelers alive!

Bad grammar on my part. My 4th grade teacher would be furious! Should have typed "Well I know this, they built at least 2 of them." I haven't found them yet!

Well, I know this. There are at least two made.?

Can you imagine the work it would take to go through all the old posts(thousands) and review each one to see if the photos still worked and delete the ones that didn't. I would bet it would be hundreds of hours of work. The moderators don't get paid enough to do that much work!!

1946 Jeep CJ2A. One of my early memories was sitting on my dads lap at 5 or 6 and he would let me steer. By the time I was 7 he would let me drive it down our lane(1/4 mile) to the mailbox to pickup the mail. We also had a small spring tooth plow that we used to tend the trees around the house. My first job at harvest was driving this to take fresh drinking water to the harvest crew. By the time I was 10 I was a heavy equipment operator(John Deere 830) all day during the summer. These ages were pretty consistent for all farm kids in western Nebraska. How many of you had the black button on the floor to the right of that gas pedal. That is the starter!

I've used both for years and have had no issues to speak of with either. Both require the same prep work of flattening and sanding. The main difference is that I find I can use my finger with Tamiya for the final polish. I always use a water dampened dremel buffing disc with Novus. If I am doing large areas like 1/12 scale bodies I prefer Novus because I can cover a lot of area quickly with the dremel. It can be tricky working in tight spaces with a Dremel. I also use Tamiya with my Dremel but it is messier. The finish I get is about the same with both. It is more a matter of what is handy and how tight a space I am working in.

Don't you just love it when a designer does all his work and then an engineer comes along and decides to just cut the door in without consulting the designer!

Apparently Ohio has a radically different idea of what a "Historic Vehicle" is! Maybe they are "rare" there?

Wow, I didn't notice that this was an old thread. I have an old Badger 175 Crescendo that has been serving me for well over 25 years. Shortly after I got it, I took it to Coast Airbrush and they swapped out the seals with Teflon. Never had to do a thing since. I also have two Tamiya HG brushes and an Iwata HVLP gun. I have airbrush bottles for each that have either lacquer thinner or acetone in them that I use for cleaning. I have let them sit for up to a week loaded and never had any problem with seal degradation or blow by. It is so worth the effort to find replacement teflon seals!