Pete J.

Glad I could help some of the builders on this endeavor. Good luck with your build!

2013 entry. I was definitely thinking of this modification for my 911 entry. Probably not a lot of high water fording , but some up to mid hubcap level and look like water is running quite rapidly. It could definitely be a problem for low slung engines like Porsche or Volkswagens. I can also seeing it needed for dust issues with rear engined vehicles.

Rob, when you update the numbers list, would you please include my use of #49 for the porsche? I am already on with #42 for the Alfa. Thanks.

All wire gauge drill bits(well all drill bits actually) are a series of compromises. To take a good sharpening and stay sharp the metal has to be very hard. That harder the metal the more brittle it becomes. Most 1/8" shank bits are circuit board drills which are probably made from solid carbide. They will be sharper and stay sharp because of that, but don't tolerate any side to side motion. I use the heck out of them but only in a mill or drill press. You have to be pretty careful to hold it very straight without any wobble when you use them in a pin vise.

Yup, got to go to a non-hobby supplier. Hobby shops and ebay will sell you the cheapest stuff they can find. MSC, Grainger or McMaster-Carr and search wire-gage bits or if you have the need for the really good stuff, circuit board drill bits. The circuit board bits are generally carbide bits and will be sharp but also somewhat brittle. I only use those on my Sherline mill. In this case, you actually do get what you pay for!

Got a pair of them off of Shapeways. Just go there and search for 1:24 scale K&N air filters. Should pop right up.

You'r most welcome. Thanks for running this little shindig

The porsche I choose has the roof rack. I am going to have to scratch one up for the Alfa.

I have to agree with Rob. Still doesn't meet rule 7.1- " They must be of a type designed to carry passengers with either a saloon or sports bodywork, estate cars (station wagons) are not acceptable. Commercial or military vehicles such as light trucks, vans, ambulances, pick-ups and utility 4x4 vehicles are not eligible." This may have started life as a civilian vehicle made by a civilian auto company but it is clearly modified for military use. Rolls-Royce has build a large amount of military equipment over the years as they are one of the preeminent engineering companies in the UK. The fact that it has a RR badge on it wouldn't automatically qualify it for this rally.

Love the design! You took a design concept to the logical end. The design came together very nicely. Too bad about the paint. That aside it would have been a show stopper. I especially like the integration of the roll bar.

Tim, I really appreciate your comments about the Fordham grinder. I suspect that a lot of modelers are shaking their heads at $600, but you are quite right about a quality tool. For many those sort of tools are just way out of reach, but it is a tool you will never have to replace unless you run over it with a truck. I will say that the tools don't make the craftsman but by the same token, having good tools means less frustration. I have had the discussion with my wife about tools and I always go back to my old saying, "I could build a house with a swiss army knife, but why would I want to?" A quality tool encourages you to do more. Oh, and by the way, the engine is really a piece of jewelry, so it makes sense that you would be using a jewelers grinder on it. Stunning piece. Keep up the great work. It is an inspiration to all of us.

Doesn't pass the "no military vehicle" test!

I remember using roof rail systems like that in the 60's. There were many roof rack systems in the 50's through current day that were adjustable for various cars. They used gutter clips to hold them on and had adjustable width bars. They have a lot of options. They have attachments for snow skis, surfboards, bikes canoes and a just plain basket. I had the ski rack for my 69 Mustang when I was in college so I have to believe you are on the right track. You could also use something like Brian suggested.

I thin tamiya tube putty often but I don't use lacquer thinner. I use Tamiya extra thin cement. If fact I have a bottle of their cement reserved strictly for that purpose, because the brush is a great tool to mix the putty. A little blob on a piece of ceramic tile and use the brush to transfer the cement and mix it works quite well for me. You can also use the brush to fill very small gaps quickly. Makes for a solid bond also since is bonds the plastic to the putty.

Having looked at a lot of the real deal photos, I suspect that major surgery to the body panels would be frowned on. Taking out an interior parts such as seats, carpet and non structural bulkheads to increase stowage would probably be ok, but changing the profile of exterior panels wouldn't. It is still about having a passenger car. No pickups, trucks, station wagons, panel vans or other large capacity hauling vehicle are permitted. Yes, it is about getting as close to the line as possible, but it is also all about maintaining the spirit of the challenge. That is driving "regular" passenger cars from Peking to Paris.

To all who requested them, the decals are in the mail. With the exception of Jhedir6 and W409 you should have them by the end of the week. The envelops may look like junk mail but in the return address they have "Peking to Paris Decals" so keep an eye out for them. For Niko and David, I have no idea how long it will take to get to you. Finland and Canada deliver on their own schedules. For the rest of the Board members who are participating, I have three blank decals leftover. If anyone is interested let me know. I will send you the blanks at no charge.

We can rebuild him! We have the technology.

They have chased down U-2's with a lot of different vehicles over the years. Not surprising to see a Mustang. When I was in, most of the vehicles were Dodges. The SAC alert crew vehicle was a Dodge crew cab 4 door. Worked great for the KC-135 crew of 4 plus the crew chief, but the BUFF crews had a bit of a tight squeeze. On Diego Garcia, the crews had a Dodge Van. In the equatorial sun and salt water that blue paint deteriorated very quickly. It looked worse than a Michigan car(winter salty roads eat cars for lunch).

Just made this up for a group on Facebook, but thought is was appropriate here too!

Very nice build! I've got thousands of hours on the seat of a 4520! Dad bought one of the first ones in 68 and I drove it all summer until I went of to the Air Force and planted my backside in the seat of a KC-135 for thousands of hours. It had an Egging Cab and a hydraulically powered swamp cooler on top. Huge improvement over the 830 we had before that with an umbrella. I blame part of the hearing loss I have to driving these beasts for 10 hours a day all summer. I still remember the tinnitus I had when I shut them down at the end of the day. It lasted for a good half an hour before I could hear again. Good memories of my childhood!

No, it was the top of a block with a locating pin about 1/8" in diameter and a tab the same size with a small area between. I needed the area between them to be flat to fit the locating holes. I tried my UMM but it wouldn't get between the two pieces. The .5mm blade was just the right size. A wedge shaped scribers or pointed scribers would not have worked to make a smooth flat bottom. The flat part is important to maximize the contact area for gluing. This is holding a landing gear in place on a very heavy(all photoetched and white metal) 1:32 scale aircraft. Has to be done right. Would I have spent $150(US full retail) on this tool just to do this? Oh heck no, but I was glad I had it. It did exactly what I wanted. Like most tools, once you own it, you find uses for it. It really doesn't replace other tools, but is complements my collection of scribers nicely. Do you need it? At about $175 for the full set, it is very low on most lists of must have tools. I can see buying one or two blades and using them with your pin vise. If you have to have the full set, can be had with all five blades and the handle for about $95 from Hobbylink Japan. At that price it is still not cheap, but that is an individual choice.

I concur with your assessment of the Tamiya on the price but...I had occasion today to use it and it was the only one of the 10 or so scribers I have that would work. I had to clear some glue out from between two white metal parts so a part could be replaced. It is too complicated to explain here, but the tiny size of the head that the fact that I could get it right on the edge of a joint and make a flat bottomed groove made it indispensable. Yes, I use UMM as the first thing I pickup to scribe but these have a special place in my tool set. Would I suggest them as the first and only tool in the box. Heck no! The UMM is too versatile, but I will guarantee you that someday you will need this or something like it if you build enough models so don't dismiss it out of hand. Remember, He who dies with the most tools wins! P.S. It would be fun after I am gone and my kids go through my tools to see them look at each other and say -"What the heck is this for??"

Here is Tamiya's new "engraving" tool reviewed. This is a very nice tool to scribe straight lines with a square bottom. I got a full set from Hobby Link Japan and they are not for the builder without substantial resources. The blades are expensive because they are solid carbide and will hold an edge for a long time. You don't need to spend the money for a holder as a standard pin vice will hold them. I have a large pin vice which gives me a very nice grip with the knurling on the side. Like the review says, the perfect scriber is a holy grail sort of thing. Always looking for the ideal tool. I have drawer full of them. So far the Umm-usa are my favorites, but if you need to control the width of the groove and want a flat bottom, they the Tamiya may be worth the price.