Chas SCR

Me and a great friend of mine.

Here is the rear roll pan bolted in for more detail. Scale of 3/4 bolt head size. Here is the exhuast brackets getting ready for chrome platting. Start on the under side of the hood also tonight. Here is the rear grab bar done in body color with the tips been chrome patted. Tomorow I will bolt it in place to set the seat brackets up.

Simo'n, This car will not be done untill next year just before Salt Lake City.

For all tooling needs to fit the Harbor Fraight stuff or even going to like Jet machines like I have (they use the same small tooling) You can get any thing and every thing you need to fit this stuff and more at Blue Ridge Machine out of WV. The tooling will also fit Econo lathe.

Thank you to every one that is looking and watching this build. I have to also say thinks to Randy Derr as he really help me understand a lot of stuff for this in the resin part of the work and watching the video of his talking at the GSL.

you can do the scrip in solder .015 and it comes out real nice. This is how I change the engrave valve covers to a raise letters for the valve covers.

yes any kits with an automatic in GM upto 1975. 3 350 and 400 basicly looks the same in a model and you would never know the diffrents.

You ask what the little white parts are for? Well let me tell ya that this exhaust will not be an 8hr job as each of the parts has to be fitted and chrome plated and then the exhaust tubing has to be painted flat black and bent .After sanding them to size and drilling the bolt holes they line up in the chassis like this. The brackets for the exhaust tubeing and keep every thing nice and snug looking under the chassis. This car will have 8 of them added to it.

Front trailing arms are now painted and bolted to the chassis.

(1) 1 off custom built parts (2) The new style "Clean" look under the hoods (3) Custom made motor covers (4) How to take a classic and turn it into a 1 off beast (5) Hide away brake lines and parts

Looks very nice and done in a clean way!

The Areo Monte came out in 86 and you could get it in 87 also. This promped them to also able to run it if they wanted in 88 and that is why you do see a few pics of the GW #3 car as the areo and also you can find the areo Wrangler car. They did make a 1989 Monte Carlo as this was the last year it was built untill the new one came out in 95. Dale did run a sliver #3 in 89 also as the only 4 stickers was diffrent from the 88 to 89 car and they did how ever add a braker black strip between the red and sliver part of the strip in 89 some time in the middle of the year.

Also remember if you do Nascar stuff of any thing new'er then 2002 till now this will not help you set your front tires up right. Inless you are wanting people to think your car is at speed and racing at the time you have to change the way the front tires sit as a car does not sit down on the bump stops as if it is going into the turn or down the straightaway. The top of the tires will be bow out as if the upper A arms are broken and the front will need to be lifted on a rake more the the rear. When they set the toe in they do what is called a tie down and set ever thing as if the car is at speed they will be toe out and the top bow'ed out when the car has not force on the front end.

For doing CNC stuff get a new computer and just use that for the machines. The progame is very hard on the motherboard and also your video cards, I have the Jet Lathe and also the Mill and will not think of going smaller then what I have as I do other stuff in 1/8th scale also for use on mine. For justifying using the CNC its really not needed as I do not use it for mulitpul parts and such. It is easy'er to help figur out stuff using the NC part of it in the program then any thing and also get a machines handbook as they have all the formulas for the mathe you will need. invest in some good diamond bit tooling and also the replacement tips for your lathe is very nice. You can get some soft aluminum from K&S and special order from them some 6160 aluminum or even go to Alro Steel if you have on near you.

Here in the front end I was able to polish out the bolts and put them in. They are just under .010 sticking out at the head and not a full flush fit. On the rear end I did the 4 link today putting in all the him joints and bolts to hold the rear in. I have to fit the arms to size. After I do this I will then polish all the bolts and nuts to a chrome look and paint the arms black. The only arms that will not be painted black are the ones for the sway bar and they are gray.

We are getting closer, Got the red on with the bronz and now have to do the touch up to the outer body and then do all the inner fenders and rear part.

Was very impressed with the venders this year and the great turn out on that part. I was not over'ly impressed on a couple other issues!

Sorry no updates this weekend as I took the weekend off for a show on saturday and then just some alone time today. This week is all new tooling and setting up the machines for some work and getting the nice little parts made for this car. 1 of the biggest things I will be machine on is the Una Ball Joints and studs. This is really going to be fun and also getting the gagues clusters made up for both this car and two other builds as i'm doing one set I might as well do the others now then later.

Ok, this is an Acrylic Jamb clear coat. It is for spray can use http://shopforpaint.com/Dupont_Acrylic_Clear/category_id/273.html

thank you, I just like to make it a nice part of my collection but trouble is RPM Hotrods already has spoken for it once it's done and been seen out west next year. Think the guys from RPM as they just have made this build such a blast doing it with all there help.

Runt getting the 1st of 3 coats of HYUNDAI S2R Red Allure and its really nice to work with such thin paint. This really looks good as it's not a flake that is too big out of scale and not over'ly flashy when the clear is added to it. Next to the Bronze it really pops out.

"Runt" is now in the paint booth and having some good color put to it!