StevenGuthmiller

Not only that, but it’s just the enjoyment of doing it, and the knowledge that when it’s done, you’ll have something completely unique that no one else has. Steve

I believe it was in an area called "The Patriarchs"? Valley of the Gods is a different "National Monument" further south by the town of Mexican Hat. Arches NP is just north of Moab, and just south of I-70. Steve

I think the ‘62 Ford would do quite well if it were to come back. Steve

There could be a couple of possibilities there, depending on what remains of the original toolings.......if anything. I have a hunch that some of the tooling remains for some of the old annuals that were later re-issued in the "Flower Power" series. At least that should be proof that the molds weren't destroyed to produce the subsequent year's models. There was also another series, (don't know what they called it), that included such models as the '62 Ford Galaxie. Steve

Thanks everyone. Haven't been able to spend much time at the bench lately, but I've been working on finishing up the other bucket seat, and started fabricating some arm rests and pads. I hope to get the majority of the interior pieces done soon so that I can get them primed to see what I really have. Steve

If you're referring to my Hemi Under Glass post a few pages back Jeff, I was talking about the '66 Barracuda kit. In that case, the body was altered for the Hemi Under Glass version, so in order to go back to stock, a new body would be required. By the way, the '71 Duster chassis is already ear marked to go under my '66 Barracuda. Steve

Arches National Park in Utah. Steve

Happy to help. Steve

Well, I suppose he could contact Scale Finishes and ask them. It’s their primer after all. Steve

MCW. Scale Finishes. Steve

I did not. I have the same attitude as Noel in this case. I don't bother with airbrush primers because I have a pretty good rapport with the aerosol primers that I use. Steve

I used some of Scale Finishes Pontiac Blue engine enamel on my ‘64 Pontiac Grand Prix’s engine and had no problems with drying at all, although I have heard of drying issues with the enamel body colors. Not sure what the problem is, but the engine paint I used was fine. I plan on using it again on my current ‘64 Bonneville project. Steve

I'd say that it's VERY "limited scratch and abrasion proof". Steve

I agree. This is one of the biggest reasons why I use, and recommend aftermarket model car paint suppliers, like MCW. Steve

If you're having difficulty peeling it off, try some WD-40. It should help remove the adhesive, and it won't damage the paint. Be sure to give it a good washing with warm water and dish detergent afterwards. Steve

The only issue with getting a custom mix from MCW is that they require that you buy 2 jars of the color. 2 oz of paint is nice to have just in case, but if I’m not mistaken, the cost is about $18.00, twice as much as 2oz of the same color from Scale Finishes. Don’t misunderstand, I love MCW paints, and will use them when possible, but I can’t see myself spending that kind of money on 2oz of paint, unless it’s a color that I can’t live without, and can’t get anywhere else. Hopefully, at some point, they’ll be able to expand their line to include many of the more unusual colors that they currently don’t carry in their line. For an example, I had to order 1964 Pontiac “Sunfire Red” and ‘68 Olds “Cinnamon Bronze” from Scale Finishes because MCW didn’t carry either color. Steve

Gotta have a set of those wheels!! They'd look fantastic on an upcoming 1959 Desoto Fireflite convertible I have planned! Steve

Well, the top 4 were taken with a smart phone. The bottom 3 were taken with an old digital Nikkon "Cool Pix" camera. Steve

I guess that explains why I don't know what it is. Steve

Excuse me for my ignorance, but what’s a “front splitter”? Steve

You are correct. MCW now offers jar enamels to help fill the hole left by Testors, but as far as I know, they do not offer pre-thinned enamel for airbrushing. Scale Finishes however, does offer all of their airbrush colors in either lacquer or enamel. Steve

The individual I was referring to was having issues with a spray can. from the photos he provided to me, it appeared that the paint was mixed too thick in the first place with no opportunity to thin without decanting. His PM to me was to ask my opinion on the problem, as well as ask my opinion of MCW and Scale Finishes paints. Another part of his problem was how hot the paint was. Apparently it was a little too hot for the Tamiya primer which he had used as it was apparent that there was some etching of the plastic. Steve

I believe that I understood your meaning. I didn't mean to make it sound as if I were being contradictory. I was merely expanding upon your post. Steve

Absolutely! There's always room for new tools and materials. I just have real reservations as to whether or not this is a true "BMF Alternative". It might be an acceptable substitute in certain circumstances, but my gut tells me it's not a replacement. Steve

With as much complaining that we hear about just the thickness of BMF "Ultra Bright" foil, which I doubt is nowhere near 3 times as thick, I don't think the added thickness will be much of a benefit. The extreme thinness of BMF is what makes it as workable as it is. How many people were ready to chuck BMF altogether recently, not only because of adhesion problems, but because it was thicker and wouldn't cut or conform as well? If this MIG AMMO foil will work for something like the tail light bezels on these 2 models, I may consider a switch. Steve