StevenGuthmiller

MCW. Scale Finishes. Steve

I did not. I have the same attitude as Noel in this case. I don't bother with airbrush primers because I have a pretty good rapport with the aerosol primers that I use. Steve

I used some of Scale Finishes Pontiac Blue engine enamel on my ‘64 Pontiac Grand Prix’s engine and had no problems with drying at all, although I have heard of drying issues with the enamel body colors. Not sure what the problem is, but the engine paint I used was fine. I plan on using it again on my current ‘64 Bonneville project. Steve

I'd say that it's VERY "limited scratch and abrasion proof". Steve

I agree. This is one of the biggest reasons why I use, and recommend aftermarket model car paint suppliers, like MCW. Steve

If you're having difficulty peeling it off, try some WD-40. It should help remove the adhesive, and it won't damage the paint. Be sure to give it a good washing with warm water and dish detergent afterwards. Steve

The only issue with getting a custom mix from MCW is that they require that you buy 2 jars of the color. 2 oz of paint is nice to have just in case, but if I’m not mistaken, the cost is about $18.00, twice as much as 2oz of the same color from Scale Finishes. Don’t misunderstand, I love MCW paints, and will use them when possible, but I can’t see myself spending that kind of money on 2oz of paint, unless it’s a color that I can’t live without, and can’t get anywhere else. Hopefully, at some point, they’ll be able to expand their line to include many of the more unusual colors that they currently don’t carry in their line. For an example, I had to order 1964 Pontiac “Sunfire Red” and ‘68 Olds “Cinnamon Bronze” from Scale Finishes because MCW didn’t carry either color. Steve

Gotta have a set of those wheels!! They'd look fantastic on an upcoming 1959 Desoto Fireflite convertible I have planned! Steve

Well, the top 4 were taken with a smart phone. The bottom 3 were taken with an old digital Nikkon "Cool Pix" camera. Steve

I guess that explains why I don't know what it is. Steve

Excuse me for my ignorance, but what’s a “front splitter”? Steve

You are correct. MCW now offers jar enamels to help fill the hole left by Testors, but as far as I know, they do not offer pre-thinned enamel for airbrushing. Scale Finishes however, does offer all of their airbrush colors in either lacquer or enamel. Steve

The individual I was referring to was having issues with a spray can. from the photos he provided to me, it appeared that the paint was mixed too thick in the first place with no opportunity to thin without decanting. His PM to me was to ask my opinion on the problem, as well as ask my opinion of MCW and Scale Finishes paints. Another part of his problem was how hot the paint was. Apparently it was a little too hot for the Tamiya primer which he had used as it was apparent that there was some etching of the plastic. Steve

I believe that I understood your meaning. I didn't mean to make it sound as if I were being contradictory. I was merely expanding upon your post. Steve

Absolutely! There's always room for new tools and materials. I just have real reservations as to whether or not this is a true "BMF Alternative". It might be an acceptable substitute in certain circumstances, but my gut tells me it's not a replacement. Steve

With as much complaining that we hear about just the thickness of BMF "Ultra Bright" foil, which I doubt is nowhere near 3 times as thick, I don't think the added thickness will be much of a benefit. The extreme thinness of BMF is what makes it as workable as it is. How many people were ready to chuck BMF altogether recently, not only because of adhesion problems, but because it was thicker and wouldn't cut or conform as well? If this MIG AMMO foil will work for something like the tail light bezels on these 2 models, I may consider a switch. Steve

True, but the selection will be limited, and only modern colors, unless you know of a place that will custom mix a spray can of the color that you want as Noel mentioned, in which case, you will get way more than you need for one project, (which for me is not desirable. I rarely paint more than one model a particular color) and a can of custom mixed paint is going to cost a considerable amount. I've been conversing recently with a forum member who was having difficulties with "Paintscratch" paint. Not to say that they're not good paints, but he was having major issues with paint leveling and orange peel. Of course, I directed him to MCW and Scale Finishes. If it ain't broke, don't fix it. Steve

I personally don't use Tamiya primer, but I see no reason why you shouldn't be able to use it if you prefer. I'm positive that there are a lot of guys that use it under automotive paints. I prefer Duplicolor, not only for economic reasons, but because I like the fan spray nozzles on the Duplicolor cans. Very easy to get light, even coats. I know a lot of people rave about the Tamiya nozzles, But I personally don't see it. Another advantage to Duplicolor primer over Tamiya is the ease of stripping lacquer paints should it become necessary. Tamiya primer is notoriously stubborn to remove in comparison. Should you need to strip a lacquer paint job applied over Duplicolor primer, a good soak in Super Clean for a couple of days will do the trick. The solution will seep under the paint and dissolve the primer, allowing the paint itself to come off in sheets. There are drawbacks to using Duplicolor primer however, the most important being that the primers, like the paints, are hotter than hobby lacquer primers. Therefore, caution is necessary to guard against crazing of the plastic. Numerous light coats are the key, becoming successively heavier as you proceed. Often times, I will shoot a base coat of Testors lacquer primer prior to the Duplicolor, just to add a little bit of a barrier. This seems to do the trick quite nicely. Steve

Very nice Tony! You got a lot of the stuff that I didn't! Steve

I'm no photographer, but I do enjoy snapping a few pics here and there, and even a blind squirrel finds a nut on occasion. Here's a few shots taken on a very recent trip that I thought turned out okay for a photographic illiterate such as myself. A smart phone camera can make even the most incompetent photographers among us look at least mildly adequate. Some of my favorite vacation shots from over the years. Steve

MCW and Scale Finishes both offer exceptional paints! There are a few differences, but they are both fantastic ready to spray lacquers. The main differences between the two that I have been able to see, are the size of the metallic particles in the paint. Scale Finishes' particles are a little larger, and for that reason, I prefer MCW. Very often, the particles in MCW paints are so fine, that it can be difficult to pick them out on the finished model, but they have the correct looking metallic sheen for a 1/25th scale factory stock model. MCW paints are "gloss lacquer", which in theory means that they can be finished without a clear coat, but I clear over it any way. Scale Finishes paints are either "lacquer basecoat" (which will require clear coats) or gloss enamel. I use the base coat colors because I greatly prefer working with lacquer paints, and I have heard others say that the enamels take forever to dry......if ever. Scale Finishes colors are more economical at $9.99 for 2 oz jars, while MCW will run you around $7.50 for 1 oz, depending on the colors. (some colors are more expensive) Although you stated that Scale Finishes colors appear to be more limited in variety, it's actually just the opposite. Scale Finishes carries nearly every color for a particular year and make, while MCW is a little more spotty, which is why Scale Finishes is my go-to when I absolutely must have a particular unusual color. Regardless of which lacquer you choose, (I know very little about Scale Finishes enamels) you will want to treat them as any other automotive type lacquer paint. A good lacquer primer, (and plenty of it) and preferably a good clear of your choice, is the rule of thumb. In short, you can't really go wrong with either of these brands! They are both really a joy to work with! This MPC '67 Bonneville was painted with MCW #6701 "Royal Plum" metallic. This AMT '64 Pontiac Grand Prix was painted with Scale Finishes, code N "Sunfire Red" metallic. Steve

Yes, the X-EL Fury is a direct copy of the Johan '59 Fury kit/promo in styrene. It's a little easier to find than the Johan kit, and will undoubtedly be better than the acetate promo, but it did not come with an interior. You're only option for finding an interior is an original Johan. Modelhaus cast the interior in resin, but that's no longer an option. I think you'll be disappointed if you try to convert a '58 body into a '59. The only sheet metal they shared was the top and doors. Front and rear quarters were entirely different, not to mention all of the trim, grille, bumpers and tail lights that you would have to recreate. This is my X-EL '59 with the Modelhaus interior. Steve

The lower windshield molding on the drivers side has already been re-scribed, and the passengers side has not yet been done. That probably explains the difference that you’re seeing. Steve

I was thinking about possibly a half smoked stogie. ? Ether that or I could fill it up with change for the non-smokers. ? Steve

I believe power windows were an option. This model will depict a relatively bare bones console delete, 4 speed car, so cranks make more sense to me. Steve