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StevenGuthmiller

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  1. StevenGuthmiller
    Hi guys. Looking for some good interior shots from a '59 Desoto Fireflite convertible for an upcoming project. I will have to pretty much build an interior from scratch, but I'm not having a lot of luck finding any interior seat/door panel upholstery pics. Please post them if you have 'em. Thanks! Steve
  2. StevenGuthmiller
    I use 2 part epoxy for almost everything. I prefer it because I can mix it up, apply it to one of the surfaces to be mated, let it cure for five or ten minutes until it begins to tack up, and then glue the parts together. This minimizes "squeeze out". Then I let the parts set for a few minutes, rechecking periodically to readjust if necessary. After 20 or 30 minutes, the parts are very securely fastened together. Steve
  3. StevenGuthmiller
    I remember seeing the “rainbow Chevy”. ? Steve
  4. StevenGuthmiller
    I’ve won several awards with curbside builds too. Makes no difference to me either way. Steve
  5. StevenGuthmiller
    I can’t disagree with that. But, to be honest, he was looking for “good” alternatives, and unfortunately, I can’t think of a single one. ? I guess you could say that we’re just trying to pre-empt those “messy” issues before he has to go through them. But, now he knows my opinion, for whatever it’s worth. Steve
  6. StevenGuthmiller
    Hey, if it ain’t broke...... You’re not going to find anything more reliable than a Toyota. Maybe a Honda Pilot or one of the all wheel drive Subarus. Don’t disappoint yourself with some of these supposed “heavy duty” off road vehicles. What you save on struts you’ll more than make up for with all of the other mechanical issues that nobody ever seems to want to admit to. ? Steve
  7. StevenGuthmiller
    I agree. If you had problems with applying the old Testors “Chrome Silver” back in the day, you’re not going to have much better luck with Molotow. It’s no silver bullet. It’s basically a shinier version of Testors chrome, with about the same durability properties. Steve
  8. StevenGuthmiller
    Not only that, but in order to use it for trim, and in order to get a clean job, (as is the case with Molotow as well) you would need to mask off around all of the trim. If you’re willing to go through that much work, why not the work of learning to use foil? Steve
  9. StevenGuthmiller
    As the others have said, there’s no substitute in my opinion either. You can try one of the paint/Molotow options as pointed out, but personally, I’m much more comfortable with a sharp #11 blade than the relatively high possibility that my trim will look like trash in a few years. BMF will last for decades and look good all the while. Molotow might last, and then again, it might not. Nobody can answer that question with any real degree of certainty. Steve
  10. StevenGuthmiller
    If I had a nickel for every time I read this sort of "I hate AMT" rant on Facebook and the forums, I could retire in comfort tomorrow. And I'll answer it with the same thing that I, and thousands of others, have said a million times. Don't like it, don't buy it. When Tamiya, Hasegawa or Aoshima produces a '68 Dodge Coronet, then we can make that comparison. Steve
  11. StevenGuthmiller
    I’m sure that the AMT ‘68 Roadrunner chassis would work as well. Might even fit better than the Revell Charger chassis. I’m just happy to see that they improved the interior, and revisited the body, hood and grille. Seems to me that even with the old chassis, it’s going to be a pretty nice kit. As long as they kept the overall MPC body proportions, It will be miles above the AMT ‘68/‘69 Roadrunner/GTX kits. I’m sure that AMT sold a boatload of them. This is a no-brainer. Steve
  12. StevenGuthmiller
    There were a lot of ‘em!! Bob said 327 models present! Steve
  13. StevenGuthmiller
    I believe it's a Mack with a '65 Lincoln rear end grafted on. I didn't take a really close look at it. I'm not much of a "truck guy". Steve
  14. StevenGuthmiller
    Kirby picked up a "Top Ten" for himself as well. Steve
  15. StevenGuthmiller
    A few of my favorites from the show. Steve
  16. StevenGuthmiller
    As long as he still has usable molds, you should still be able to get them. I really don't know the status though. I haven't talked to Ed in some time. Maybe Steve G can shed some light on the interior status of the upcoming Round 2 kit. The photos look as if the interior may have a little more detail than my original MPC kit had. By the way, I just returned from the 24th annual NNL North show in Bloomington MN this afternoon, where my '68 Hemi Coronet R/T received one of the "peoples choice" top 10 awards. Not terrible considering that there were 327 models displayed in this years show! I suppose that I had better show it off now before they start popping up everywhere! Steve
  17. StevenGuthmiller
    Is Ed Fluck not offering them right now? Something tells me that if this kit is successful, (which I’m certain it will be) he will begin casting them again, if he is not at this time. Steve
  18. StevenGuthmiller
    Thanks Joe. I have no experience with it, so I wasn't sure. Steve
  19. StevenGuthmiller
    Super Clean will not harm the clear plastic. That said, depending on the flat black paint used, it may not remove it either. I have flat black painted parts that have soaked in Super Clean, and IPA, both for weeks, to no avail. You may have to resort to brake fluid, but I have no idea what it will do to the clear plastic. Don't know what adverse affects, (if any) that a product like Testors ELO would have on it either. Your best bet might be to just replace the glass with clear plastic sheet, which looks more realistic than the overly thick kit glass anyway. Steve
  20. StevenGuthmiller
    Thanks Jim! It's models like this that will make you a BMF expert in very short order! Steve
  21. StevenGuthmiller
    Thanks everyone! As I said to a gentleman on Facebook, "These cars are from an era when a car could be gaudy and stylish at the same time. Nothing says 1950s America like a finned monster, awash in chrome, in fabulous shades of pastel paint". Steve
  22. StevenGuthmiller
    Apparently, some others have not had the same luck. I'm just going by what I have heard from some other people in various conversations, including Mr. Shirley in this thread. I don't have first hand experience as I don't use the stuff myself, but I've heard of difficulties removing Tamiya primer and paint from others on various occasions. Just offering some alternatives. Steve
  23. StevenGuthmiller
    I can't disagree. Just another thought as well, is if you feel that you must use Tamiya primer, but are concerned about the ability to strip the paint and primer should something go wrong, (which if you are relatively new to the game, is absolutely certain to happen at some point) you might want to consider a light base coat or 2 of a more stripable primer prior to the Tamiya primer. I have no experience that this will remedy the situation, but it may help should stripping the paint become necessary. Steve
  24. StevenGuthmiller
    There are a whole host of really great pre-thinned paints available that will require no mixing or thinning whatsoever. shake ‘em up, pour in the cup or jar and go to work. MCW and Scale Finishes, (just to name a couple) will carry just about any color that you can imagine! They are an invaluable resource for paint, especially if you are looking for particular factory stock colors. Whatever color it is, between the two of them, they’re almost guaranteed to have it. Steve
  25. StevenGuthmiller
    True. most of the time, when I hear someone complain that Super Clean won’t remove lacquer paint, it’s due to the fact that they used a primer such as Tamiya. It’s a pretty simple operation to remove lacquer depending on the primer. A primer such as Duplicolor or Testors will dissolve and the lacquer will slough off in sheets. So in short, keep in mind that if you do plan on using Tamiya primer, you’re going to have limitations as to what you can use to remove it, and any lacquers that you might use over it, should the need arise. Steve
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