StevenGuthmiller

And I just want to add that the Charger chassis is not a drop in chassis swap. The wheel base of the Charger kit is slightly longer than the Coronet, so some minor adjustments are necessary. Steve

They are pretty prehistoric by today’s standards, but they were the coolest thing going back in the day. How many of us older guys “didn’t “ have a couple of cases of 8-tracks in the back seat at some point? ? Steve

The head rests were brought up a couple of times during discussions between Ed and I while we hashed things out with the reproduction of this interior. I never really had any intention of doing them myself, but they would not be a terribly difficult addition by anyone who cared to add them. Although, it was mentioned by Ed that the tops of these seats are quite thin front to back, so it could be a little bit of a challenge to fit them. Steve

Thank you! I’ll keep that in mind! Steve

Thanks Greg. Painted the wiring harness today. Steve

I will need to stretch either an AMT '62 Catalina chassis, or one from one of the Moebius '61 Pontiacs. Steve

My next project will be a '64 Bonneville convertible, but as usual, it will get a complete chassis swap. Steve

Well, the A arms are definitely from one of the AMT Pontiac annuals. My guess would be '62 Bonneville. Steve

Beautiful!! I wish that I had known you when I did my ‘60. Could have saved myself a whole bunch of masking and painting! ? Steve

I ordered several jars of paint on June 2nd, and received them on June 10th. No issues whatsoever! Steve

Thanks Gerald! I think I have the "buddy seat" pretty much finished. Added the piping all around, and while I was at it, I went ahead and made it positionable. Steve

Now that my interior has been returned from Ed, I can continue on with some more interior features. The "buddy seat" was the next thing to tackle. Thanks to a '71 Charger front seat assembly that I received from Frank Filosa, (Dodge Driver) I had a good starting point for this seat. I started by cutting the center from the Charger seat front and back and then ground down the sides of both with the Dremel and some sanding. Then I added some side bolsters to the base and back. I'll do a little more refining and then I'll add some piping. Steve

Steve

I assumed something like that was likely the case. I know how these mock-ups can be deceiving. Steve

She’ll be nothing short of magnificent!!! Steve

Top notch work!! Are you planning on a little work on the stance? Might be just me, but it appears a bit high in the front when viewed in profile. Steve

There are a ton of paints that are not designed for styrene plastic, but there are always ways around this, and in reality, a good portion of the absolute best paints for models is not designed to be used with them. This shouldn’t stop you. Steve

I use flat paints all of the time when painting engines. (Usually Testors enamels) There are some nice benefits to using flat paints followed by clear. First, flat paint will dry smoother as a rule, (no orange peel) Second, I can control the degree of gloss depending on the number of coats I add after. Finally, I can do all of my detail painting on the engine prior to the clear coat. This will protect those parts, as well as the engine paint from rubbing off during handling during assembly. I will usually use a coat or two of Testors clear lacquer over the flat enamel to add gloss and protect the paint. Steve

Here's my latest distraction. It was obvious to me that the extremely faint wiring on the Revell Charger firewall was going to be extremely difficult, if not entirely impossible to detail once the firewall was covered in a couple of coats of primer and paint. So I began some experimenting with creating a wiring harness from very thin copper wire. Once I got it to the configuration I needed, I coated the twisted portions of the wire with 5 minute epoxy to hold everything in place. Once cured, I can begin painting the wires and get them routed for installation. Steve

I think I'm good. I always try to sand the C-pillar trim down to about the same thickness as the drip rail trim. Steve

Thanks guys! I think I've finished up the vinyl top work. Installed the chrome strips on the C-pillars and the roof seams using 0.01 x 0.03 evergreen strip. This time I decided to fill the roof side of the seam strips to make them look a little more correct. Steve

Thanks Kevin. It will finally give me the opportunity to fully show off one of my rebuilt interiors. By the way, the Plymouth "Chestnut" will most likely be used on an old Johan "flat box" '64 Fury I would like to get going on at some point. Steve

I’ve always wanted to do a ‘57 Chevy in this color, so I’m saving it for a future Revell ‘57 Chevy convertible build. I figure at some point I’m going to want a break from these time consuming vintage revamping projects that I’ve been doing a lot of lately. A simple modern kit build might be refreshing at some point. But I’m already planning on my next project being a complete rework of an AMT ‘64 Bonneville convertible. That’s what the Pontiac Turquoise is for. ? Steve

Another bunch of MCW paint. 1957 Chevy "Sierra Gold". 1964 Plymouth "Chestnut". 1964 Pontiac "Turquoise". And 1967 Mopar "Gold", which I'll be using for my '68 Coronet project. Also bought a jar of vinyl top texture paint to try out. Steve

Yes, I ground out what I could from the backside with a Dremel tool and then finished with some scraping with a flat X-acto blade, sand paper and sanding sticks. Steve